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Just finished mine - All Legacy

markha

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2008
Messages
13
First.... thank you to this site and everyone that contributes. I learned a lot from this site before starting and it helped me make the decision to go with the Legacy products and helped me in the application.

Here is what I did. First... I called Scotty and chatted with him. Nice guy and responsive to questions! My garage is 498sq ft and if you calc in the stub walls, its just over 600sq ft.

I ordered 2 HD Garage kits, Primer, spike shoes, 4 pounds of additional flake, California Urethane Clear (more on that later) and the gel style crack sealant.

Here is what I did... Not saying it's right or wrong, just worked for me.

First I used Simple Green on all the oil spots and pressure washed the entire garage. After it dried for about 12 hours I rented a floor polisher with the diamond concrete prep attachment from Home Depot. I used this for about 3 hours. I know your not supposed to have to put weight on these things, but my HD insisted that the prep attachment was good even though it looked pretty worn. I found that if I put a gallon of paint on it, it worked much better. Yes... it created a bit of dust. I used a hand held grinder for the edges. When done, I shop vac'ed and then power washed the garage again to get rid of all the dust.

After allowing the garage to dry for about 48 hours in 100deg heat (its hot out here), I applied patch to any cracks and to the seams between the stem walls and the floor. This stuff sets up fast and you have to be careful to not over apply. After 12 hours drying time, I went around with a flat razor and cleaned up any drips or averages.

Then I applied the primer. I applied the stem walls in one batch and then applied the floor in two batches using the joints to break it up. I let this dry 12 hours.

I struggled with the decision on how to do the stem walls. What I did is similar to another user on here. I figured out the sq ft of the stem walls and how much epoxy to do them. I then estimated how much flake for them. I then applied the epoxy and threw the flake at them and then used the shop vac to blow the stuck from the floor to the stem walls. After they dried for a few hours, I swept up the remaining flake.

Now I applied the epoxy. This time I separated the floor into 3 sections because of the quick dry time of the epoxy. I was doing this by myself and wanted to make sure I had time to apply the flake. Again I used the joints as seams. I did use a squeegee to spread the epoxy. I really wish I had purchased a notched squeegee from Scotty. But the HD one worked. It is just hard to control the amount of product you are applying with a straight squeegee. After using the squeegee to spread I then back rolled the epoxy.

I allowed this to dry for about 12 hours again and everything looked good. I was ready to applied the California Urethane. This stuff is 2 part and goes on like you are rolling on non-fat milk. It is really thin. I put on 2 coats on the floor only. I didn't worry about the stem walls and allowed about 10 hours between coats. The only thing I didn't like about the urethane is that it turned the shiny epoxy floor into a little less shiny. I emailed Scotty about it and he said that the California urethane is not as shiny. Damn tree hugers out here. He said that a couple coats of wax usually shines it back up. I waited a few days and then applied 3 coats of wax and man did the shine come back.

Here are the pictures. I am happy with the results!

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markha

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2008
Messages
13
So you only applied the crack sealant to the cracks, not the saw cuts/expansion joints?

Looks great!

You are correct. I did not do the expansion joints. Thought about it, but after doing a bunch of research I decided not to. Things I read stated that the epoxy will crack there anyways even if filled. Also ready that none of the professional installers will warranty filling the expansion joints. Not sure if that is true, but they don't bother me enough to fill them and then have an issue.
 
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