Just picked up a "Harbor Freight" Torque Wrench 3/8

[thurman.]

Now I got this thing real cheap the other day. After reading reviews. I am rethinking my purchase. Now I will probably only use it to torque lug nuts and oil change drain plugs just small stuff like that. But I have read some horror story on breaking heads with small stuff. So has anybody got one of these that they use regularly? I mean I still got the receipt. I always did want one over the years. I just used these "guns" of mine to tighten everything.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gdocktor3]

If you're only going to use it for lug nuts and oil drain plugs, why bother keeping it? I've never, ever used a torque wrench on either of those and never, ever had a problem. Seems like a waste of drawer space to me. With that said, I have 3 Craftsman click type torque wrenches (2 USA, 1 China) a Snap On clicker and Snap On beam type. The Craftsman work just the same as the more expensive Snappys. You can buy a Craftsman on sale for $30-40 bucks on sale almost regularly. I am a HF hater and have had bad luck with basically any tool that has moving parts. While they may work for some, I simply won't waste my time or money on something like that. Hammers, screwdrivers, etc I will buy and that's it.

Alternatively you could rent one from Auto Zone or Advance Auto and get your money back when you finish.

 

[md21722]

A member of our Jeep group had a HF torque wrench and had it bench tested at work. He went out and bought a better brand after seeing the results. That one tested OK. Generally wheels get torqued with 1/2" drive. Things could have changed, but if it was me I'd return it.

 

[zendriver]

Just picked up a "Harbor Freight" Torque Wrench 3/8

You should get rid of it, because damaging threads on lug bolts and oil pans is not good either.

It sounds like you've already decided you can't trust it based solely on the opinions of others.

It will just cause anxiety and doubt every time you use it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[bcradio]

Something might blow up if you use it... you must spend more money to buy one that will keep stuff from exploding on you.

 

[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

Would buying a torque adapter as a cheap tester work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VYUKTC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[bczygan]

Get the other two so you have the right tool for every job.

I use all mine, all the time.

Bill

 

[thurman.]

Would buying a torque adapter as a cheap tester work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VYUKTC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

That thing is expensive. Maybe I will get the wife to get me one for my birthday.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bcom]

Thats it!! Thats the same torque wrench i posted about when my head fell apart on it! Look at the two screws that hold the head of the wrench together. They barely thread into the other side and they loosen up quickly and the head will fall apart. I recommend putting Loctite on these screws before its falls apart like mine did. I got my generic torque wrench from Oreillys but its identical to the Pittsburgh HF one. I didnt realize that til now. Its works fine for me after i Loctited the screws so the head dont fall apart. Seems to be a decent cheap wrench.

 

[Tonellin]

who uses a torque wrench on an oil pan drain bolt?

 

[pedrodagr8]

who uses a torque wrench on an oil pan drain bolt?

If you have a Honda you had better. Damn aluminum drain pans are soft as butter. 35 lbs and a new crush washer, nothing more that that though.

Sent from my LGLS992 using Tapatalk

 

[Bcom]

who uses a torque wrench on an oil pan drain bolt?

I get picked on all the time for using my torque wrench too much and using it where most people wouldnt bother but i dont think theres anything wrong with torquing common areas down if theres a specification for it. Torque away man torque away!!

 

[SMKS]

The HF torque wrenches are far from the nicest torque wrenches you can buy, but they work fine. I have a 1/2" that I've been using for something like 8 years and it still checks out as in spec. It's not nearly as nice as my CDI or Armstrong torque wrenches, but it works fine.

If you do some googling you'll see the same basic torque wrench as the HF model is sold under a lot of different brands for a lot of different prices.

Much of the bashing of them comes from people who have never used them or just like to bash anything from HF, whether the complaints are accurate or not.

Maybe some people have received defective ones. That's very possible because HF likely sells millions of these. I would try exercising it on something like a lug nut. If it clicks fine, then go ahead and use it. But some of the complaints I've read about these torque wrenches are from people who were using them wrong or didn't really know what they were doing.

Check the screws in the head, too. They can come loose.

A couple other notes:
-Good on you for torquing drain pan bolts. Some are delicate. I like to properly torque them, too.
-A 3/8" torque wrench probably won't be big enough for a lot of lug nuts. I'd recommend the 1/2" version for that. My HF torque wrench has been used basically exclusively for lug nuts and suspension parts.
-Make sure to store it at the lowest setting.

 

[BDT/NWMN]

I have a couple of those is my junk box, but shouldn't be wasting the space.

 

[thurman.]

Just picked up a "Harbor Freight" Torque Wrench 3/8

Thats it!! Thats the same torque wrench i posted about when my head fell apart on it! Look at the two screws that hold the head of the wrench together. They barely thread into the other side and they loosen up quickly and the head will fall apart. I recommend putting Loctite on these screws before its falls apart like mine did. I got my generic torque wrench from Oreillys but its identical to the Pittsburgh HF one. I didnt realize that til now. Its works fine for me after i Loctited the screws so the head dont fall apart. Seems to be a decent cheap wrench.

I just read your post on it. That one guy in there was very rude. Saying that a torque wrench was a scientific thing that if you didn't know what to do, don't use it. It's just a wrench that you set and STOP when you hear or feel the "click". Nothing special about that. But after reading that is your wrench ok now. I mean did you use it again after you loctite those screws? Here are my screws on mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Raymond Fast]

I have a couple of HF torque wrenches that I use from time to time. I brought them to work after I purchased them and had one of the guys in the quality lab check the calibration. They were a little off, but were linear, so I made a little tag for each one that lists the actual torque vs. the indicated torque. I keep the little tags in the case and use them when getting the exact torque right is critical (like when torquing TTY head bolts). It might seem like a lot of trouble, but it's a resource that's available to me and I would have done the same thing regardless of where I bought the torque wrenches or how much I paid for them.

Like I said, neither one is very far off - within about 5%, which is the kind of accuracy I'd expect from a high end tool. I'm happy with mine.

I buy most of my tools from HF. If I was a professional and depended on them every day for my livelihood, I'd certainly invest in better quality than is usually available from HF. But as a homeowner/hobbyist who doesn't put nearly the wear and tear on my tools that a professional does, I've found that HF's prices and level of quality enables me to afford adequate tools for pretty much every application.

 

[thurman.]

I have a couple of HF torque wrenches that I use from time to time. I brought them to work after I purchased them and had one of the guys in the quality lab check the calibration. They were a little off, but were linear, so I made a little tag for each one that lists the actual torque vs. the indicated torque. I keep the little tags in the case and use them when getting the exact torque right is critical (like when torquing TTY head bolts). It might seem like a lot of trouble, but it's a resource that's available to me and I would have done the same thing regardless of where I bought the torque wrenches or how much I paid for them.



Like I said, neither one is very far off - within about 5%, which is the kind of accuracy I'd expect from a high end tool. I'm happy with mine.



I buy most of my tools from HF. If I was a professional and depended on them every day for my livelihood, I'd certainly invest in better quality than is usually available from HF. But as a homeowner/hobbyist who doesn't put nearly the wear and tear on my tools that a professional does, I've found that HF's prices and level of quality enables me to afford adequate tools for pretty much every application.

I got a question for you Brother Ray. How do you store it? Some people say don't leave it torqued up. Torque it low and set it around 3lbs etc. I know to never drop it and keep it in the case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Superbec]

A torque wrench is an instrument of precision.

What good is a ruler you don't trust? a level that's crooked ? a vernier caliper with play ??

Given the length of a torque wrench it may be batter to use just a ratchet that you're familiar with .

I would consider one of those cheapos only if I had torque checking equipment...

p.s. don't know what lug nuts you torque with a 3/8 wrench... it should be in the 1/2 range

 

[Weird Tolkienish Figure]

I got a question for you Brother Ray. How do you store it? Some people say don't leave it torqued up. Torque it low and set it around 3lbs etc. I know to never drop it and keep it in the case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Manual says to leave at the "0" setting. Undertorqueing could ruin it actually, it pulls the springs out.

 

[Raymond Fast]

I got a question for you Brother Ray. How do you store it? Some people say don't leave it torqued up. Torque it low and set it around 3lbs etc. I know to never drop it and keep it in the case.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I back mine all the way out when I'm not using them. Take off all the tension. I also keep them in the original plastic cases, which happen to be pretty rugged, and on a shelf where they aren't likely to get banged around.

 

[T45]

If you care, return it.

If you don't care, don't bother.

simple as that.

The issue with ****** torque instruments is they are very long levers, so when they are out of spec you can damage more delicate parts (like cast aluminum engine blocks, valve cover screws, etc). Those repairs are expensive, time consuming, and a PITA if not done correctly.

If you need a cheap torque wrench get a beam type. They are the least likely to completely fail. They also provide continuous indication of estimated torque, so you don't get suprises.

With a clicker, you keep pulling till it clicks. Which means if it doesn't click, for some reason, you have no feedback on how hard you are pulling. so you can't really tell you are about to wet the bed.

The beam wrench makes that problem go away and greatly limits potential damage from incorrect use or out-of spec instrumentation etc.

 

[Bcom]

Re: Just picked up a "Harbor Freight" Torque Wrench 3/8

I just read your post on it. That one guy in there was very rude. Saying that a torque wrench was a scientific thing that if you didn't know what to do, don't use it. It's just a wrench that you set and STOP when you hear or feel the "click". Nothing special about that. But after reading that is your wrench ok now. I mean did you use it again after you loctite those screws? Here are my screws on mine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It looks like your screws actually are longer than the ones that were in mine. YES! i still use the torque wrench. No problems from it after i put the head back together. Prolly wouldnt hurt to put a bit of loctite on your screws though to avoid my circumstances anyway. Your screws are longer than mine but better safe than sorry

 

[Raymond Fast]

With a clicker, you keep pulling till it clicks. Which means if it doesn't click, for some reason, you have no feedback on how hard you are pulling. so you can't really tell you are about to wet the bed. The beam wrench makes that problem go away and greatly limits potential damage from incorrect use or instrumentation spec.

This is a good point. I've had torque wrenches in the past that, for whatever reason, didn't click, causing me to over-torque something. For that reason, I'm in the habit of putting the wrench on a tight fastener - something that I'm not going to break - and turning it until it clicks to make sure it's working before I use it on a job.

A beam-type or dial-type wrench is better, of course, because of the real-time feedback. If you're going to use a click-type wrench, this is a quick, simple precaution you can take to reduce the possibility of having a problem.

If you're sweating it, spend the money on a beam or dial wrench. (The beam wrenches are more durable and less likely to get knocked out of calibration since there are no moving parts.)

The funny thing is, I have a Craftsman beam-type torque wrench hanging on display in my shop. It's an antique that my dad found in his stuff and gave me. It's never been used and still has the label attached. I use my click-type wrenches from HF. I have enough confidence in them for what I use them for.

 

[franzdom]

I am curious, why is Harbor Freight in quotation marks?

 

[thurman.]

Just picked up a "Harbor Freight" Torque Wrench 3/8

I am curious, why is Harbor Freight in quotation marks?

Because I wanted to show the origin of my concern. I mean you can't buy a new Mercedes Benz at the Ford Dealership. But sometimes you may drive by a Mercedes Benz stalled on the side of the road while driving a Ford. It's all about Awareness.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[franzdom]

 

[guy48065]

Storage:
"Loosen handle to lowest setting for storage"...or words like that are in almost all torque wrench manuals. "Setting" is not the same as "marking" and is a little word game they unfortunately all play. If your wrench goes to 80 ft-lbs the lowest setting for it's INTENDED use is 16 (20% of full scale). The handle may be marked all the way to zero or 5 but you do risk unloading the internal spring to the point that the moving parts inside--which are loose and held in place BY the spring pressure--will fall out of alignment. If that happens your tool may click at any point, or not at all.

 

[thurman.]

Storage:
"Loosen handle to lowest setting for storage"...or words like that are in almost all torque wrench manuals. "Setting" is not the same as "marking" and is a little word game they unfortunately all play. If your wrench goes to 80 ft-lbs the lowest setting for it's INTENDED use is 16 (20% of full scale). The handle may be marked all the way to zero or 5 but you do risk unloading the internal spring to the point that the moving parts inside--which are loose and held in place BY the spring pressure--will fall out of alignment. If that happens your tool may click at any point, or not at all.

So it needs to be stored at 16 as stated in your example?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gdocktor3]

Yes 16 ft lbs is the correct setting for the 20% rule for a 80 ft lb wrench.

 

[thurman.]

Yes 16 ft lbs is the correct setting for the 20% rule for a 80 ft lb wrench.

That is if your total range is 80 ft-lbs. which in this case mine is 80.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thurman.]

Yes 16 ft lbs is the correct setting for the 20% rule for a 80 ft lb wrench.

Thank you. This is the case with any torque wrench.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[guy48065]

I have had to open and reassemble one of those Pittsburghs twice in 3 years from the same tech that just doesn't understand not to unscrew the handle to the end of travel.

You can actually hear the guts rattle around in the tube when you loosen it that far.

 

[franzdom]

Thank you. This is the case with any torque wrench.

Beam and Digital don't need to be dialed down.

 

[thurman.]

I have had to open and reassemble one of those Pittsburghs twice in 3 years from the same tech that just doesn't understand not to unscrew the handle to the end of travel.

You can actually hear the guts rattle around in the tube when you loosen it that far.

You are knowledgeable about this wrench. But if you use the 20% rule on a 80ft lbs would it be around 20?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gdocktor3]

You are knowledgeable about this wrench. But if you use the 20% rule on a 80ft lbs would it be around 20?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Simple math. 80 X .20 = 16

If it was 100 ft lb torque wrench it would be 20

 

[Finky198]

Idk you guys blow me away "how much they **** and that their dangerous, and dont work and bla bla bla" yet a bunch of us on here have tested them and in general their reasonably accurate...

I've have all 3 sizes all have been tested and function properly going on 3 years now. I have torqued 100s items from tools, equipment, wheels, intakes, plugs, brakes, ball joints, ect... I have not once had an issue... I randomly double check them with a digital and/or snap on Clicker and Im always within .5-1.5 lbs across the range...

SO What's the big deal?... It must be "NAME" that pisses all u's off

 

[Raymond Fast]

Beam and Digital don't need to be dialed down.

Thanks. I've been trying to figure out how to dial down my beam-type torque wrench.

 

[thurman.]

Simple math. 80 X .20 = 16



If it was 100 ft lb torque wrench it would be 20

Thank dude. I will remember that from now on. Always use the 20% rule when storing all torque wrenches.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[augustus]

I have this torque wrench and the smaller one. I use them because I don't work on cars enough to have a good "feel" for what's tight enough or too tight. I've used them from spark plugs to timing belt change on my honda pilot. All I can definitely tell you is that a higher number does apply more torque

Thanks for the info on proper storage, I didn't know that.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

The race team I'm on used to use HF 1/2" drive torque wrenches for checking lugs; we got tired of constantly replacing them. The heads would either freeze up (not click) or break and just rock back and forth.