Just starting to plan the garage build, what am I missing?

[Krmnnghia]

Really appreciate all the expertise here. Seems like a lot of really helpful people.

My Wife and I are looking to build our first detached garage in Michigan. We live in a 100yr flood zone area so there is bound to be a couple setbacks. Given the area we have to work with, we have decided on a 32x40x14 pole barn with vinyl siding/shingled roof(HOA Requirement), 2-10x10 insulated doors, 1 Man door, a 8x40x10 lean-to on the back side, 4" concrete pad on the inside only, elec/gas run to the barn only, and a 8'x32' Loft on one end of the barn with stairs.

Had a local builder come out who is very familiar with the township and the ordinances and he doesn't seem to think its going to be a problem as long as the DEQ gives their OK. He has built a barn in the same flood zone about a mile down the road and didn't have much of an issue although I understand a simple elevation change can cost me a small fortune to correct.

His quote came back at roughly $40K start to finish NOT including DEQ permits or required extra fill dirt needed to comply with DEQ. Thoughts on that price? I've been shopping around and it seems on the lower end for the area. I might be able to get an Amish builder to do it cheaper but I really like the fact that this guy lives less than 20 minutes from me and is very familiar with the area. Can you guys think of anything I am missing? I will be doing interior finishing/insulation/electrical myself throughout the summer. The only thing we know will be added is a 4 post lift which is why we went with two tall doors. Here are the designs I quickly drew up online.

 

[Jazz1]

I would go 2x6 construction for added insulation. As well I would go metal roof or does a HOA not allow metal roof? I built my garage 20 years ago and the shingles are done...shoulda coulda. Putting tin on soon.

 

[Krmnnghia]

I would go 2x6 construction for added insulation. As well I would go metal roof. I built my garage 20 years ago and the shingles are done...shoulda coulda. Putting tin on soon.

I’ll ask him about the 2x6. Unfortunately the shingled roof is an HOA requirement.

 

[CraigStu]

That sounds like a great deal to me. Another advantage of the local guy is he knows he is close, and if any problems he is easy to find. So I expect he will do his best to make you happy. I'd get another quote just for another data point even if you end up back w/ the first builder.

 

[Krmnnghia]

That sounds like a great deal to me. Another advantage of the local guy is he knows he is close, and if any problems he is easy to find. So I expect he will do his best to make you happy. I'd get another quote just for another data point even if you end up back w/ the first builder.

Yah that is what I really like. He even uses the lumber yard 3 miles down the road for his builds. So when he says he sources all the work local....he means local.

 

[NUTTSGT]

No concrete under the lean to ? If you are to change that and pour concrete, in no way would I allow them to pour it at the same time. I would want that lean pad atleast 1" lower than the interior floor.


If you pour them at the same time, you may not have a problem right now but I have no doubt you will in the future, whether it be during heavy rain or melting snow.

 

[Krmnnghia]

No concrete under the lean to ? If you are to change that and pour concrete, in no way would I allow them to pour it at the same time. I would want that lean pad atleast 1" lower than the interior floor.


If you pour them at the same time, you may not have a problem right now but I have no doubt you will in the future, whether it be during heavy rain or melting snow.

Interesting. I would not have thought of that. The reason we aren't going concrete there is that half of it will be an outdoor dog run with a door going back inside under the loft so my dogs can go in and out during the day. Will probably go with pea gravel for the dog run area and the other half we would eventually do pavers or brick.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Interesting. I would not have thought of that. The reason we aren't going concrete there is that half of it will be an outdoor dog run with a door going back inside under the loft so my dogs can go in and out during the day. Will probably go with pea gravel for the dog run area and the other half we would eventually do pavers or brick.

There have been more than a few members here that had the issue and my step-brother has the same issue with his Amish built pole barn.

This is why you'll see some members advising to pour a stem wall or curb when stick building.

 

[GrayFlattop]

The only question I have is the part about being in a 100-year flood zone. Many areas have been hit with several "100 year" rain events in the last decade or so. Friends living in Berrien County have twice dealt with flooding in the last five years that they haven't seen in 40 years.

I know that weather is local, but it sure is a pain when it happens to you.

If you have the opportunity to elevate the slab a bit - or to place the garage on your site in a portion of your land that is LEAST likely to take on or retain water, it would be a good question to ask NOW. It might be worth a consultation with a civil engineer. Site prep such as proper grading can be a life saver.

Back to the fun stuff - your garage plan looks great, I'm jealous! $40k seems more than reasonable and if the guy is local with good references - even better.

Really good advice above on the pad under the lean-to. If a slab, lower and pitched away is really good advice. I like the idea of pavers or some other semi-permeable surface under the lean-to. If it's something you want to do later as funds or time permits, that's ok to.

Few things **** more than dealing with water in a shop (dealing with water in the house being one) after heavy rains - do your homework up front.

 

[Krmnnghia]

The only question I have is the part about being in a 100-year flood zone. Many areas have been hit with several "100 year" rain events in the last decade or so. Friends living in Berrien County have twice dealt with flooding in the last five years that they haven't seen in 40 years.

I know that weather is local, but it sure is a pain when it happens to you.

If you have the opportunity to elevate the slab a bit - or to place the garage on your site in a portion of your land that is LEAST likely to take on or retain water, it would be a good question to ask NOW. It might be worth a consultation with a civil engineer. Site prep such as proper grading can be a life saver.

Back to the fun stuff - your garage plan looks great, I'm jealous! $40k seems more than reasonable and if the guy is local with good references - even better.

Really good advice above on the pad under the lean-to. If a slab, lower and pitched away is really good advice. I like the idea of pavers or some other semi-permeable surface under the lean-to. If it's something you want to do later as funds or time permits, that's ok to.

Few things **** more than dealing with water in a shop (dealing with water in the house being one) after heavy rains - do your homework up front.

We have been through two springs at this house and some areas get some serious water. We are on 20 acres with about 1/3 of that being wetlands which we can't touch. Where we plan on putting the barn does not get "soupy" so I think we are mostly good. An elevation check will have to be done and I am sure DEQ will have the specifics as to what height we need to come up to. I am bracing for the worst and hoping for just a could grand in dirt.

 

[farmer.ron.99]

I am looking into building a garage very close to this size. I was at Menards looking at the barn metal siding and saw some that was made to look like shingles. They were embossed and had the same type of granulated coating. You might look into that.

 

[big_Greasy_Taco]

No concrete under the lean to ? If you are to change that and pour concrete, in no way would I allow them to pour it at the same time. I would want that lean pad atleast 1" lower than the interior floor.


If you pour them at the same time, you may not have a problem right now but I have no doubt you will in the future, whether it be during heavy rain or melting snow.

What is a "lean pad"??

 

[rburke65]

I assume the “lean pad” is the concrete pad or floor beneath the “lean to”.

 

[kngelv]

I would also run water to the barn.

James

 

[Krmnnghia]

I would also run water to the barn.

James

This is something I’m going back and forth on. The barn is 20 feet from the house and a spigot. I can easily get a hose to the barn and the dog run for washing. But getting it plumbed for water would require a drain to the septic on the other side of the house. $$$$

 

[69gp]

This is something I’m going back and forth on. The barn is 20 feet from the house and a spigot. I can easily get a hose to the barn and the dog run for washing. But getting it plumbed for water would require a drain to the septic on the other side of the house. $$$$

Better to spend a few dollars now then to wish you had done it after all the work is done. All you need to do is add a couple of sleeves from inside the new garage to the outside. You can always trench in a couple of years if you want to add it then.

Also might look into adding radiant heat.

 

[Skunkape]

Wish I Would have poured a 3ft walkway all the way around mine. Other than that, I would have coated the floor before so much as 1 tool was placed in it. Won't ever happen now.

 

[kngelv]

This is something I’m going back and forth on. The barn is 20 feet from the house and a spigot. I can easily get a hose to the barn and the dog run for washing. But getting it plumbed for water would require a drain to the septic on the other side of the house. $$$$

An outside spigot will do nothing for you during a cold Michigan winter. At a minimum do as suggested and run empty lines to the garage now and run a drain out of the garage but just cap it. That won’t cost much and you can always tap it later if desired.

James

 

[Krmnnghia]

An outside spigot will do nothing for you during a cold Michigan winter. At a minimum do as suggested and run empty lines to the garage now and run a drain out of the garage but just cap it. That won’t cost much and you can always tap it later if desired.

James

I’ll ask the builder about it. Thanks