Just the "basics"..........

[6sally6]

Gonna be building the "always-wanted-a-garage-to-call-my-own" soon and I need an answer to my question.

NOT interested in epoxy....race tile......or concrete paint.

I have decided to roll on a concrete stain after the concrete cures. It's cheap and won't peel up like paint....and EZ to touch up after a few years of use.
Any particular stain better than others?
After the stain should I seal it with something? OR will the stain prevent the concrete from dusting?
How is the stain best applied?? Spray......roll.....brush.....
Thanx in advance!!
6sally6

 

[Shea]

Typically, stains are protected with a clear, film forming sealer (coating). If you don't plan on protecting the stain and making the colors look rich and vibrant with a clear coat, then you are best off using a water-based stain. Acid stains will etch the surface and open up the pores. This will prevent penetrating sealers (non-film forming) from working very well since the concrete will want to absorb most of it.

Stains are typically sprayed on with a pump-up sprayer, but you can roll them on if you are only going with one color. Stains will not protect the concrete in any way. All they do is change the color.

Once the surface is stained, you can apply a penetrating sealer (non-film forming) to help protect and seal the concrete. They work at resisting stains, liquid penetration, and general cleanups. However, unlike a good clear coating, oils and other liquids can still stain the surface if not treated soon enough. In addition, penetrating sealers will not protect the stain from aggressive surface scratching. Lastly, touch-ups of the stain will not be easy since there is a penetrating sealer already applied that works by repelling liquids. The stain will not want to take very well.

There is a gentleman on here that I believe used Delta Dye water-based stain from Legacy Industrial and then sealed it with a densifier and GhostShield 8510. I couldn't find his post, but maybe he will see this and show his results.

 

[6sally6]

Will a clear coat make the floor slippery when wet?
How much $$$$ will it cost compared to a clear sealer?
Thanx for the quick "bounce-back"!
6sally6

 

[rayra]

what do you mean by 'dusting' - are you talking about efflorescence / calcification? Or something else?

And as to staining, what sort of appearance are you after? monochromatic or some sort of acid / mottled coloration. I just want to comment that I see some complaints about not being able to readily find small things when dropped on a 'busy' floor. Epoxy flake finish fads not withstanding.

I'm preparing to re-finish a new-to-us 3car garage in Vegas and have been looking for similar info. Was thinking epoxy, but worried that even putting in the prep work it might peel or bubble. very hot tires etc.

 

[6sally6]

Yeah.....me too on all the above.
Dusting like when plain old unfinished concrete ALWAYS gets dusty even right after you sweep it. I think its a natural occurance with concrete (SEA-MINT if you live down south!)
No fancy/busy acid wash stain just a solid color....maybe red or gray
I too am concerned about losing stuff on the floor when I "ALWAYS" drop it.
My feelings would really be hurt if I spent big buck$ on an epoxy floor and then it start lifting when I drive a hot tire or something over it or....spill 'some-kinda' stuff on it and it messes it up.
I want simple/cheap/durable/EZ to apply/EZ to repair (if necessary)
Sounds like (so far) I want a stain and a clear coat over it.
6sally6

 

[Shea]

Keep in mind that most true concrete stains will not provide a solid looking color. Even if one color is used, the characteristics of the concrete will be highlighted with darker and lighter areas, mottling, veining of the concrete and etc. That is why most people choose stains.

Most clear coats are going to be slippery to some extend when wet. However, you can mix in an anti-slip media for the final coat or if it's a single coat. One particular clear coating that does very well when wet on it's own is a product called TS210. If your troweled concrete will accept a water-based stain without further prep, then it will accept TS210. It has more of a matte finish and is much more durable than standard acrylics. In addition, it can be repaired fairly easily. You can read about it in the link below.

https://allgaragefloors.com/ts210-concrete-sealer-review/

Another clear sealer that would do very well is one coat of a single-part polyurea. However, it does require that the concrete be etched first. An acid stain would actually etch the concrete for you. Single-part polyurea provides a glossy finish and commercial quality protection. It will require a non-slip additive if you are worried about it being wet. The link below is an example of a Garage Journal member who did multiple colors of acid stain with a clear coat of polyurea. It will give you an idea of the gloss.

https://allgaragefloors.com/diy-acid-stained-garage-floor/

Don't be sucked in by products such as Behr that market solid color stains. These are just water-based acrylic coatings tinted to a solid color that do poorly in garage environments.

 

[Steve in UT]

I've seen a few floors dyed, then coated with Legacy's HD6600-MMA that look real nice. It's a little more economical than fancier coatings.

 

[6sally6]

So I don't get confused Steve........were the floors "dyed" or stained? OR.....is there a difference?

 

[6sally6]

Shea..so I understand better....It's not gonna be possible to get a smooth color on the garage floor(almost like a solid "paint" color) Will all stains be the mottled colors like shown below? (I don't really care for that 6 colors of green look...although the guy did a good job of putting it down)
Would I be money and time ahead to have the concrete dyed when they popur it and then put a sealer over it?
6sally6

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I've seen a few floors dyed, then coated with Legacy's HD6600-MMA that look real nice. It's a little more economical than fancier coatings.

Thanks Steve!
Now we have an additive that gives you the solid-color look too!
https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-sealers/color-bomb-pigment-pack.html

 

[rayra]

oh yeah, if the concrete isn't even poured yet, I'd say go for coloring the mix.

I want a nice tan floor and figure the best I can do is stain and seal it. I'm going to have to degrease / scrub and wash mine out anyway, and may have to acid wash it too. Problem compounded by my large/wide sloping residential driveway. Which I have to worry about washing all the residues across. I may have to clean and seal the driveway first, and then wet it thoroughly before rinsing anything out of the garage. Then there's staining my neighbors' gutters...

I think I need to go start my own topic on it, rather than hijacking yours...

 

[6sally6]

Shea..read about the TS-210. Sounds like something I could like!
One question........could a tint color be added to it?
6sally6

 

[Shea]

Shea..so I understand better....It's not gonna be possible to get a smooth color on the garage floor(almost like a solid "paint" color) Will all stains be the mottled colors like shown below? (I don't really care for that 6 colors of green look...although the guy did a good job of putting it down)
Would I be money and time ahead to have the concrete dyed when they popur it and then put a sealer over it?
6sally6

Correct. When staining the actual concrete you are almost always going to have a mottled and varied look to some degree. Integral colored concrete would be a great way to go if you want a solid color and are not concerned about gloss and such. There are many colors to choose from these days. All you would need to do is apply a sealer of some sort and you would be set. TS210 would be a great example. It would darken the color just slightly and provide a smooth looking matte finish. I don't believe TS210 can be colored. However, just give Concrete Sealers USA a call. Their customer service is excellent.