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Keeping a Gun Safe Dry

LifeLongWNYer

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Oct 23, 2013
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South of Rochester, NY
I am moving a safe and have some questions on keeping the contents dry.

In the previous location, I used a product called a "Golden Rod", which is a small plastic tube with a low temp heating element in it. I just discovered that the device quit working and the manufacturer will not respond to my questions on warranty coverage. Therefore, I am looking for an alternative.

Ooops; let me add that the house is a 1880's era structure, with a very damp basement. In the winter, the hydrometer ( in the cellar ) reads between 70-80% and in the summer it is between 90 and 100%. That said, the first floor shows no signs of dampness or high humidity.

The safe will be located on the first floor living quarters, albeit a room which has minimal heat during the winter. By that, I mean, about 60 degrees when not in use, but I will raise it to 68-70 on the evenings when I am in there.

I have used the cans of desiccant, which seem to absorb moisture rather quickly, and then require a 2 - 3 hour baking in a 350 degree oven to dry them back out. It appears to me that this is a fairly expensive way to keep a cabinet dry.

A buddy suggested a low level heating pad, such as used under reptile cages. Supposedly, they draw 10 - 15 watts and create enough heat to keep a safe dry.

I've also been told to put a pair of 7 watt night lights in there, and the heat from them is adequate. That sounds a little too small, but I am open to the thoughts of others.

There is also supposed to be a "ceramic" light bulb, which emits not light, only heat. I've never seen one, so don't know anything more on those.

So, what say the experts?



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unslow1

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Put more than one rod in the safe. Use whichever brand you want. The ones you have to bake or plug in to dry are a pain. Some kind of small fan may also help a lot.
 

nadogail

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Coronado, CA
The heating element in the Easy Bake oven was a 100 watt incandescent lamp.
I built an oven to keep my welding rods dry with one.

With solar electric panels, operational cost was minimal. I just had to occasionally replace the bulb.
 

rlitman

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The heating element in the Easy Bake oven was a 100 watt incandescent lamp.
I built an oven to keep my welding rods dry with one.

With solar electric panels, operational cost was minimal. I just had to occasionally replace the bulb.

The problem with an incandescent light bulb is that they only last 1000 or so hours.
Take the same 120V lightbulb element and run it at a low enough voltage that it doesn't glow, and it will not only still put out some heat, but it will also last indefinitely. Here, I will note that a triac dimmer is not sufficient for this purpose, because these dimmers cause the filament to vibrate, but you could run three 40W bulbs in series for example.

Or you just buy a heating "bulb" such as one made for a reptile tank.
 

jkeyser14

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(rural) Maryland
This may be a stupid question....

Isn't your safe "solid"?

Would you need to drill a hole to run power into your safe?

I am guessing you have never seen the construction of most gun safes. I drilled mine to put power in it. Most are only meant to stop a quick smash and grab.

Until you reach the $5k+ price range and can afford a box with a TL rating, gun safes are pretty much just thin steel boxes with drywall inside and are often classified as RSC's (residential security containers). A drill goes through in a couple seconds. A portable bandsaw or sawzall destroys one in a minute.
 

FTG-05

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One of my guns safes has an 18" Goldenrod.

The other has one of those $12-$15 heating pads available at any Walmart, drug store and so on. It has 3-10 heat settings; I have it set on "Low", should last forever.
 
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andersen24

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Kermit007

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We used a lightbulb in an old refrigerator to keep welding rods dry.
A great storage container similar to your gun safe.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

SapperXL

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Jan 24, 2019
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Mont Belvieu, TX
I use damp rid in my 20 gun safe in the garage. I get it from the dollar store, one mid size tub lasts about 3 months. Just don't spill it on anything as it is very corrosive. I'm in SE Texas on the coast and it's always humid here.
 
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69supercj

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Jan 26, 2010
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I have a few dessicant packs in mine. Seems to work. 30 years so far

Same here. In fact, I just started using the packs about 5 years ago and in the previous 10 years I never ever had a problem with rust or moisture and I live in SW Missouri where we have LOTS of humidity and I heat with a ventless propane heater as well. So far so good.
 

Bretny

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Dutchess county NY
I also live in NY with a simular house and my safe is also in a mostly un heated room. Vacuum pack your ammo with a desiccant pack and oil up your guns. Its the only sure fire method.
 
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LifeLongWNYer

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Thanks guys, I think I'll try the Lockdown Dehumidifier rod this time. Where it is now, is more convenient than in the previous location, so I will be able to keep a closer eye on it.

To those with questions on the safe, I bought it quite a while ago, when they were first being sold for individual use, so it is only a steel box, albeit a string one. Now, they always ( mostly ) come with temperature retarding insulation and are sealed. Mine came with a 1" hole punched in the rear, for a 110 volt power cord, and I also ran a cable out for the door contact on the inside of the safe. I connected that to a separate zone on my alarm panel.

I know that the safe won't keep a highly motivated burglar at bay for very long, but it will deter, or delay, the average home burglar, long enough for the cops to arrive. Once they enter the house, they will have tripped my alarm, so the police should already be in their way.




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olytdi

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Olympia, Washington
All you have to do is raise the temperature in the safe to a level greater than outside of the safe. You can do that with a light bulb or other device as indicated.

Anything that removes moisture from the air INSIDE the safe will create a condition whereby moisture is drawn into the safe. You want to drive moisture out (heat) not draw it in.
 

rlitman

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Long Island
All you have to do is raise the temperature in the safe to a level greater than outside of the safe. You can do that with a light bulb or other device as indicated.

Anything that removes moisture from the air INSIDE the safe will create a condition whereby moisture is drawn into the safe. You want to drive moisture out (heat) not draw it in.

Heat does not drive moisture out! It doesn't drive the moisture anywhere.
Heat just keeps surfaces inside the safe above the dew point, preventing condensation, which is where corrosion takes over.

Desiccants remove moisture. Whether or not moisture returns depends on how much your safe breathes. Removing moisture may be helpful, but it can also dry out wood stocks.
 

red61cj5

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West Virginia
Why does every single gun safe thread have to have 20 people telling you its not a real gun safe? The OP asked about humidity FFS. He knows what it is and isn't. I'm sure he's very sorry for using the word "safe" instead of RSC.
 

FTG-05

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Why does every single gun safe thread have to have 20 people telling you its not a real gun safe? The OP asked about humidity FFS. He knows what it is and isn't. I'm sure he's very sorry for using the word "safe" instead of RSC.

I agree. :beer:
 

rlitman

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Anybody know what a good humidity level would be inside of a safe?

Its hard to give you a specific relative humidity percentage target number. What's more important is that over any temperature fluctuations you can expect, the metal in the safe stays above the dew point.

In a moderately sealed container, that just takes a little drying, or a little heating.
 

Lucky13driver

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Feb 15, 2014
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Corpus Christi Texas
Oil the **** out of them and clean them and re oil every 6 months or so. Till you get a new goldenrod. I live on the Gulf of Mexico and I have to do that because of 70-80% humidity is a dry day and salt is in the air. Also put a coat of car wax on the safe as well so it doesn't rust.
 
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LifeLongWNYer

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South of Rochester, NY
Thanks for the suggestions, I'll close with just two comments. As a long time security consultant, I am aware that my "cabinet" is not REALLY a "gun safe", however I used those terms to describe it, rather than use 100 other words to fully convey the idea. To the average teen-ager, who might decide to burglarize my home, it IS a safe, and he won't bother it. To the professional, who might burglarize my home, he will know it ISN'T a safe, and it won't slow him down, and that is why I've connected it to my alarm. Two of the basic precepts of the security business are deter and delay. My "gun cabinet" accomplishes those. While it is not what many call a "safe", it is UL listed as "TL30" ( that means no entry with a screwdriver ) so it is not a Harbor Freight special, either.

A couple of guys mentioned drying the house, and I wish I could. The house was built in the late 1880's, I've been here since 1954, and the moisture conditions haven't changed. My father spent a lot of money trying, in the 50's through the 70's, with almost no noticeable change, and since nothing seems to be rotting away, I think it is something that I'll have to live with. While it sounds bad, it really isn't.


Thanks to all for the comments, I appreciate them.




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sierradmax

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Sep 5, 2005
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Rhode Island
I have a 6,000# safe in my garage where it generally sees high humidity. I framed a room to look like a closet to store my safe & compressor. It is well insulated and I use door seals around the door. I use a small dehumidifier to dehumidify the closet, use a goldenrod within the safe, & keep the valuables well oiled.
 
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