Keeping Insulation Off of Lights

[gmhill33]

The fellow at Home Depot said the the manufacturer said to keep the insulation 3" above the lights, how can I do that? I have 2'x4' 4 bulb fixtures.

Here is a link to the light that I will be getting.http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-Fans-Fluorescent-Lighting/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xkcZare3/R-100180403/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Thanks,
Gary

 

[79firebird]

Looking at that one it looks like its for a t-bar drop ceiling
Integral T-bar safety clips are standard no need to install separate clips

 

[gmhill33]

Looking at that one it looks like its for a t-bar drop ceiling
Integral T-bar safety clips are standard no need to install separate clips

I made my opening 2'x4' and will screw them to the sides of the frame so they will mount flush to the drywall.

Gary

 

[sammm]

Don't they make lights where insulation contact with the housing is OK?

 

[tfi racing]

Just drywall the top of your openings.

 

[Stuart in MN]

If there's insulation right above the lights I assume you'll have a vapor barrier there as well. Since those troffer lights aren't sealed, they would let warm moist air pass right through them, on up into the attic space, which will cause moisture problems. So, building some kind of box over the top of fixtures to 1) keep them clear of the insulation and 2) give you a way to run a continuous vapor barrer is probably the way to go. On the other hand, you could probably find a different style light fixture that's more suited for your application.

 

[MrMark]

I made my opening 2'x4' and will screw them to the sides of the frame so they will mount flush to the drywall.

Gary

I am curious about this. These look like they are for suspended ceilings. You have joists that are 24" on center????

I am going with this style too, but my ceiling joists are only 16 on center so they wouldn't fit. I am stuck with the two bulb troffers unless I can find something else. I too will make a frame in the joist cavity to mount them up.

 

[mpraddict]

If your insulation will come in contact with the light fixture, you want an IC type (insulated ceiling). A Non-IC fixture will typically require 3" clearance to insulation. This is to prevent heat build up and the possibility of fire. Several years ago, a restaurant we designed had a fire because the correct IC rated fixture was not used. The guy at HD gave you good advice.

 

[cowboyjosh]

T8 ballast don't generate allot of heat, but these type of fixtures you don't ever want to cover with insulation anyways.

For recessed cans I always install IC type whether the ceiling is insulated or not, I don't even give the client a choice, because of liability and insurance many other electrical contractors have also error on the side of caution and gone this route, the cost difference of IC versus non IC is very little anyways the last time I checked.

 

[gmhill33]

If your insulation will come in contact with the light fixture, you want an IC type (insulated ceiling). A Non-IC fixture will typically require 3" clearance to insulation. This is to prevent heat build up and the possibility of fire. Several years ago, a restaurant we designed had a fire because the correct IC rated fixture was not used. The guy at HD gave you good advice.

Willis from Home Depot called me yesterday and told me about the IC type lights. I am going to go that route so then I don't have to worry about it and the are only $1 more plus shipping (I hope that isn't much).\

Thanks for the info.

 

[jkeyser14]

FYI that 3" clearance rule on non-IC lights is on both the top AND the sides of the light fixture.

 

[gmhill33]

FYI that 3" clearance rule on non-IC lights is on both the top AND the sides of the light fixture.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to order the IC rated lights.


Gary