keeping machines from rusting

[Bartech]

Hi I am a newbie to site I do machine work on the side. I have a Bridgeport in my un heated garage it has a wooden floor also my fully restored 1943 ford army jeep is in their I have not had a rust problem in their before! I keep machine fully oiled up any suggestions thanks bob b

 

[rsanter]

Keep it oiled and use it
I have not had a rinsing problem on my machine in the 20+ years I have had it.
At least not on the surfaces that get used

Bob

 

[A_Pmech]

Bob, fundamentally, your rust problem is due to high humidity in the shop air. In extreme cases this results in condensation. Condensation, which we're all familiar with on soda cans, is due to the object being below the dewpoint temperature of the air.

The solution to the problem is a two-step approach:

1) Seal the building as tightly as possible to prevent the entry of water and the humid spring and summer air.

2) Install a dehumidifier and run it during the worst summer humidity swings and during the spring and fall seasonal temperature swings. It's not necessary to run it during the dead of winter or most of summer.

 

[MotoDave]

I really like a product called boeshield, I get it in an aerosol can at Woodcraft, but I'm sure you can get it online too. If you spray it on heavy and let it dry it forms a waxy coating that seems to work well for keeping rust off of bare cast iron. I use it on my drill press table, and my dad on his table saw and jointer, and neither have issues with rust even though I am 5 miles from the Pacific.

 

[lametec]

CRC 3-36 works for me.

 

[bullnerd]

boeshield here too.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Do you cover it with a large blanket or plastic tarp by chance?

 

[brownbagg]

army jeeps don't rust, my 46 been outside i know 30 years and no rust, just better metal

 

[Kevin54]

I keep a spray bottle of WD-40 handy, along with a gallon of WD on hand to refill the bottle. If I am in the humidity times, I will just spritz the machine down with some WD. I haven't had a problem yet.

When I go to run the machine, I'll take a shop rag and wipe down what will rust. After I am done running the mill or lathe, I'll vacuum it off and give it a spritz again for protection.

 

[8nford]

Started using Fluid Film has a lot of good reviews

 

[Nowater]

Air condition the shop almost year-round.

 

[383 240z]

I've also spent a day waxing the machined surfaces of the mill, just as a procaution, then I wiped everything with way oil. I then draped a canvas drop cloth over it. Just trying to protect my mill. Keith

 

[Prototyper]

+1 for Boeshield. The stuff is in a completely different league than the likes of motor oil, WD-40, 3in1, etc. It is a purpose formulated corrosion inhibitor. A little goes a long way, and I even like the smell of it.

Only good use I've found for WD-40 is cutting, drilling, tapping AL.

 

[Zeke]

army jeeps don't rust, my 46 been outside i know 30 years and no rust, just better metal

Yeah, right, I have a '44. And the wood in the floor beams don't rot either.

 

[larry_g]

One old solution not mentioned is keep the machine warm. A 100w light bulb under the knee or in the base will warm the casting enough to prevent warm moist air from condensing on the metal.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[383 240z]

That's a kick *** idea. I'll be mounting one on Friday after I get back from the Turkey Day festivities. Thanks. Keith

 

[1/2 Cup]

I really like a product called boeshield, I get it in an aerosol can at Woodcraft, but I'm sure you can get it online too. If you spray it on heavy and let it dry it forms a waxy coating that seems to work well for keeping rust off of bare cast iron. I use it on my drill press table, and my dad on his table saw and jointer, and neither have issues with rust even though I am 5 miles from the Pacific.

I vote for the Boeshield, its good stuff!

 

[Ironhorse]

just cry and wish you were in AZ..lol....you want to try rust? try Houston....it *****...both my Bridgeport table get a little flash if I shut off my dehumidifier for 4 hours or so...it is crazy...so yes dehumidifier and if your in a swamp like me AC, Dehumidifier, and an air scrubber....

 

[bemisazb]

I use it on my drill press table, and my dad on his table saw and jointer, and neither have issues with rust even though I am 5 miles from the Pacific.

 

[Tim338]

I have tried everything and I think Mystery Marvell Oil works pretty good. My shop is heated with wood heat in the winter so lots of condensation. A quick wipe down when I am done for the weekend and no rust issues have appeared.

 

[billp603]

Another vote for Boeshield! You can buy it on Amazon. Very good for woodworking tools as it will not leave any residue on wood that will affect the stain or paint. I have also used it a couple of times to clean pretty deep surface rust off a used equipment. My trick for cleaning rust off a cast iron table surface is to spray it on and use a green scotchbrite pad under my 1/4 sheet sander.

 

[Bartech]

thanks for all the input ! I really appreciate it I will post some pics later on bob b

 

[rodm1]

I keep mine covered with a cotton sheet and oil (LPS3) them well. It seems to help

 

[darkk]

I keep my woodworking machinery safe with a coat of Johnsons Paste Wax...Waterproof and doesn't transfer to the wood...

 

[mattygee]

My woodshop is in a separate building which I have insulated, and heat or not, I have had no problem with condensation/rusting on the machines even after months of no use.. I have some other things in my garage though, (lathe, 4X6 saw, hand tools etc..) and I cringe very time we get a warm rain spell after a cold snap. I know as soon as the door opens it's condensation city. Under the circumstances there's not much one can do about it; just keep everything douched with oil you prefer.

M

 

[brucer]

SPI Crown Tool&Die Saver

LPS works good also..

 

[leadfootloon]

I keep my lathe coated in veggie oil. Works fo me

 

[yhprum]

X2 on the cotton sheet. Lightbulb is a good idea too. Does the floor get wet with humidity changes? Thats what happens to the mill.

 

[Angelfire]

I use Johnson's Paste Wax but mostly as a precaution as we don't know what rust is in these parts.......

For my table saw, bandsaw, etc... it's great as it really creates a slick surface to be sliding the wood on.

 

[benjamintmiller]

I wouldn't use Boeshield or paste wax on a machine tool like a Bridgeport.

Keep in mind this is a tool designed to cut metal to within .001". Some of these products can form a thick coating that could interfere with accuracy.

A friend of mine always says that God gave us oil on the same day he gave us iron. A wipe of a rag covered in way oil or a spray of wd-40 (which has a bit of light oil) will keep the rust at bay.

 

[ez-duzit]

I use Johnson's Paste Wax but mostly as a precaution as we don't know what rust is in these parts.......

For my table saw, bandsaw, etc... it's great as it really creates a slick surface to be sliding the wood on.

Because of the likelihood of glue joint contamination from wax, I use an aerosol product called TopCote. Way slicker than wax.
http://www.bostik-us.com/files/tdsfiles/TopCote.pdf

When my thickness planer starts feeding poorly I clean the platen with acetone and coat it with TopCote. Wonderful improvement on any saw table or fence.

 

[Angelfire]

Because of the likelihood of glue joint contamination from wax, I use an aerosol product called TopCote. Way slicker than wax.
http://www.bostik-us.com/files/tdsfiles/TopCote.pdf

When my thickness planer starts feeding poorly I clean the platen with acetone and coat it with TopCote. Wonderful improvement on any saw table or fence.

TopCote/Boeshield/etc.... all work well I'm sure. But I figure why spend the extra $$ for them when in reality, the wax works just fine? It's not like the surface of whatever I slide across the surface of the tablesaw is what I'm going to finish when you consider I end up planning or sanding it smooth after cutting. The johnsons works well for me and I've not had a problem using it when it comes to finishing at all. Been using it for around 12 years now. I won't argue which product is best as I haven't tried the others. I'll only say that the johnsons provides a very slick surface and I haven't had one iota of problems with finishing.
Cheers,
cc

 

[A_Pmech]

Because of the likelihood of glue joint contamination from wax....

That's a myth.

Johnson's paste wax or it's equivalent has been the standard woodworking machine table treatment for at least the past century. Even when applied heavily it will not cause finish or glue-up problems.

Does your planer have bed rollers? If so, you might check their adjustment.

 

[ez-duzit]

That's a myth.

Johnson's paste wax or it's equivalent has been the standard woodworking machine table treatment for at least the past century. Even when applied heavily it will not cause finish or glue-up problems.

Does your planer have bed rollers? If so, you might check their adjustment.

Bold claims. And after a century there is finally a demonstrably superior product.

No rollers--platen stiction.

 

[Jere]

I use Johnson's Paste Wax but mostly as a precaution as we don't know what rust is in these parts.......

For my table saw, bandsaw, etc... it's great as it really creates a slick surface to be sliding the wood on.

This is the way to go johnson floor paste wax, $5 for a good size can, works on bare metal, leather, wood. You can use it like shoe polish, light it on fire and get it hot and liquid, dip a rag in it and smear on whatever for a sealant/conditioner/polish.

My garage is unsealed, unheated, in summer months on cold nights and hot days get condensation on everything, just like a drink can, in the garage.

 

[A_Pmech]

Bold claims. And after a century there is finally a demonstrably superior product.

No rollers--platen stiction.

Bold? Yes.

No contest on potentially superior products. I admit to having never tried them in serious capacity. A galoot I might be...

That explains your method then. Bed rollers are a big help.

 

[DeadSock]

I wouldn't use Boeshield or paste wax on a machine tool like a Bridgeport.

Keep in mind this is a tool designed to cut metal to within .001". Some of these products can form a thick coating that could interfere with accuracy.

A friend of mine always says that God gave us oil on the same day he gave us iron. A wipe of a rag covered in way oil or a spray of wd-40 (which has a bit of light oil) will keep the rust at bay.

My favorite has always been a mix of mineral spirits and vasoline . Once evaporated off, the remaining film is as thin as way oil but holds better (and also slick as snot). I keep a mix in a spray bottle I can shake and apply at will.

A thicker mix makes a storage medium that's easy to wipe clean with a rag of mineral spirits and or my spray bottle.

 

[Keep]

I keep my woodworking machinery safe with a coat of Johnsons Paste Wax...Waterproof and doesn't transfer to the wood...

I use the same, no rust to report. Makes things slide a bit easier as well.

 

[LutzTD]

Florida humidity is up there with the worst. I was having issue until insulated the metal roof and I added a window unit to keep the temp swings down. I also liberally coated everything with boeshield, its not cheap but its cheaper than the rust and rust removal