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Kellog Compair Air Compressor

plow

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Feb 12, 2013
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1,024
Location
Louisiana
Found a cat selling a 3 PH. 15 HP Kellog air compressor today. Found a tag on it that said .......

Kellog Compair
A462TVX
1019112

There was a number cast on the jug, Maybe both I didn't look at the other, That said D-38234 6GO

Pics in a bit. Where can I find specs on this puppy? The 4 sale sign said it had just been rebuilt which is a big plus. It may come with a 250 gallon tank, The description wasn't clear on that. Asking price is 1200. One of the tubes coming off the jug is broke, But It looks like it can be braised back to working order easy enough. I rolled the fly wheel and she sucked and clucked well enough.

I've seen this beast on Craigs List for 2/3 weeks now. I was headed for the house after a job today and passed it.

I could see replacing the 15HP motor with a gas or diesel engine......Say....20 or 25 HP??? iirc, somewhere I saw a conversion table that that dealt with this type of swap (elec. hp vs gas hp).

Any input on this is welcome
 
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G_P

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Jul 11, 2010
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Central CT
To convert it to a constant running gas engine it will need an unloader that vents off excess air once it fills the tank.
I'm sure there is more as well. Probably something to idle the engine down and throttle it back up under load.

Sent via carrier pigeon.
 
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plow

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Location
Louisiana
To convert it to a constant running gas engine it will need an unloader that vents off excess air once it fills the tank.
I'm sure there is more as well. Probably something to idle the engine down and throttle it back up under load.

Sent via carrier pigeon.



I should be able to rig one up with a Mercoid switch pretty easy. The unloader, I'm thinking could be a simple pressure relief valve no? BTW, I tend to "cobble" my projects together with what I have on hand or I can find here and there on the cheap.
 

zkling

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Jan 23, 2007
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16,939
No ideas or comments?

That is one heck of a compressor. It might just be enough for filling up tires and possibly the neighbor kids basket ball. :lol_hitti The pool float would probably be too much though.

They are 15-25HP compressor units (electric) I don't think it would be efficient to run them on gas. Weight ~2000lbs.

15hp-->60ACFM @90psi
20hp-->80ACFM @90psi
25hp-->82ACFM @175psi, don't ask me why they give the specs for different pressure ratings.

If it truly has been rebuilt and it runs like a top I personally think that is a really good deal on that compressor. But realize that the market for something like that on Craigslist is very slim, so it may sit a while or eve not sell at all. That is designed for a factory install. Not many large companies are going to purchase a used machine off craigslist and take the chance. Not many DIY folks are going to be able to move/store/power a comp that large, so the market is pretty small.

Hope that answers all your questions. Result of a 2min google search. :beer:

O, the lines on the head are for the hydraulic unloader valves. They would go to the tank port so the compressor has a constant feel for what the tank pressure is.
 
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Fixnair

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Jan 5, 2013
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476
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Sapulpa OK
You will need to double the electric horsepower to arrive at a comparable engine. Then you must know at what rpm this engine makes the required HP. Then install the required drive sheave to turn the pump the same RPM as did the electric motor. Then you must have a pilot valve to unload the compressor so the engine does not have to stop. You should also have an engine slow down device attached to the throttle so the engine will slow down while unloaded.
 

Fixnair

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Messages
476
Location
Sapulpa OK
On second read, the 1/4" tubing on the head would go to the pilot valve. The pilot is like a relief valve that is normally closed and would open @ a set pressure to allow tank pressure to act on diaphragms located above each inlet valve and cause the inlet valves to stay open and thus unloading the compressor.
When pressure in tank fell to a predetermined level the pilot valve would close and the compressor would begin pumping again.

Not generally something you can make at your home machine shop. Specialty valve available only at a compressor house or Graingers or the like.
 
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TapperMan

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Oct 10, 2011
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Madison, WI
I just did this recently, though on a smaller scale. I picked up a Curtis pump with intake unloaders off of CL and a Harbor Freight Predator 212cc engine.

I got an unloader pilot valve and a throttle control like Fixnair mentioned.

For the sheave for the engine, I selected the size based on both the engine RPMs and the pump's minimum and maximum speeds. The engine is listed at 3600 RPM at full speed and 1800 at idle. The pump has a 10.6" sheave, a minimum speed of 500 RPM, and as best as I could determine, a recommended max speed of less than 1100 RPM.

At engine max RPM, 3600*X = 1100*10.6, for a sheave size of about 3.25"
At idle, 1800*X = 500*10.6, for a sheave size of 2.95"

I went with a 3.15" sheave, which fell in between those two sizes.

The pilot get connected to the tank pressure.

2013-10-06%252010.08.44.jpg


I put a tee off the pilot. One line goes to the unloaders...

2013-10-06%252010.08.03.jpg


and the other to the throttle control...

2013-10-06%252010.11.14.jpg
 

Garage Dog

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633
Location
Minnesota
No ideas or comments?

Do you need something that is portable and pushes major CFMs?

Do you get to hear that monster run?

How much would a 25 - 30hp gas or diesel engine in good running condition cost for a conversion?

Compressor cost + engine cost + conversion pulley(s) + unloader + fittings + brackets to retro-fit new engine + known repairs + your time? :eyecrazy:

Used 3 phase compressor units tend to sell really cheap around here because of the limited number of buyers.

Because of very low demand, the fact that it needs repair and you can't here it run would equal a very, low price...

Any receipts for the rebuild? Any proof it was rebuilt correctly or that it runs properly now?

Markets vary, but around here, my guess is that it would sit on CL for months at half the price with the seller waiting to find the the proverbial "needle in a haystack", just like you would if you ever went to sell it.

If you have already considered all this and think it would be a cool project - have some fun! :D
 
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plow

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Feb 12, 2013
Messages
1,024
Location
Louisiana
I just did this recently, though on a smaller scale. I picked up a Curtis pump with intake unloaders off of CL and a Harbor Freight Predator 212cc engine.

I got an unloader pilot valve and a throttle control like Fixnair mentioned.

For the sheave for the engine, I selected the size based on both the engine RPMs and the pump's minimum and maximum speeds. The engine is listed at 3600 RPM at full speed and 1800 at idle. The pump has a 10.6" sheave, a minimum speed of 500 RPM, and as best as I could determine, a recommended max speed of less than 1100 RPM.

At engine max RPM, 3600*X = 1100*10.6, for a sheave size of about 3.25"
At idle, 1800*X = 500*10.6, for a sheave size of 2.95"

I went with a 3.15" sheave, which fell in between those two sizes.

The pilot get connected to the tank pressure.


I put a tee off the pilot. One line goes to the unloaders...

and the other to the throttle control...


Thanks Tap! GREAT info there.
 
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plow

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Feb 12, 2013
Messages
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Location
Louisiana
Do you need something that is portable and pushes major CFMs?Not necessarily, But I plan on sand blasting with it. Many years ago Pops had a compressor that you could sandblast and never had to stop to let it catch up. I dig that.


Do you get to hear that monster run? No.

How much would a 25 - 30hp gas or diesel engine in good running condition cost for a conversion?Or a small car engine...Not much. I have a diesel Kawasaki Mule engine that may fit the bill

Compressor cost + engine cost + conversion pulley(s) + unloader + fittings + brackets to retro-fit new engine + known repairs + your time? :eyecrazy:Sad to say, But on projos like this cost is secondary. I do these projos to say I did it :eek: units tend to sell really cheap around here because of the limited number of buyers.

Because of very low demand, the fact that it needs repair and you can't here it run would equal a very, low price...I agree. Cheap is a good thing

Any receipts for the rebuild? Any proof it was rebuilt correctly or that it runs properly now?I doubt it, But I can find out and feel the guy out as to who did the rebuild if it comes down to buying it(not at 1200 either).

Markets vary, but around here, my guess is that it would sit on CL for months at half the price with the seller waiting to find the the proverbial "needle in a haystack", just like you would if you ever went to sell it.Agreed. I don't sell my projects though, I build them to use or look at.

If you have already considered all this and think it would be a cool project - have some fun! :D[/QUOTEThanks for the reality check and the info. It will be very helpful if I decide to pull the trigger]
 

G_P

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Jul 11, 2010
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7,135
Location
Central CT
Has it ever been covered now that its outside? I see its covered in pine needles.
I would use the fact that its just sitting on a trailer outside exposed to the weather to bargain the price down.

I know that if I had a compressor like that for sale I would keep the pump and motor inside or at least on a pallet and covered up.
Sent via carrier pigeon



Sent via carrier pigeon
 

Slickster76

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Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
25
Location
Ohio
I've got one as well. I'm not sure if the pump will hold up or even run. I found Mr. Mouse all crispy in the wiring after I picked it up, so I have to replace the wiring before I fire it up. I manually spun the pump and the tank built up a little pressure so I may be in luck.
 

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