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Kellogg American 321

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confederatemule

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Jul 8, 2011
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I have an old compressor that my Dad bought used in 1958, I think. He used it daily until he died in 1991. He had a Garage. Then, as thangs happen, my compressor got a problem and instead of fixin mine, I got my Dad's. I, also, had a Garage. It is still used daily since I've had it even though I have been retired 10 years.

I never gave it much thought till it stopped running a week ago.

The nameplates say:
Pump to Tank Mounting Plate :
American Brake Shoe Company
Kellogg
Model # B 321 B
Serial # B291557

Plate [small] on Compessor :
Model # 321
Serial # B291557

Decal [small & faded] below compressor plate :
American Brake-Shoe

I took the motor to a friend who does electric motor repair for a living. He said the motor looked like brand new, other than dirt dobber nests. He cleaned it good and gave it back to me. When I got it home and all back together it still would not run.

At this point I started checking voltage. One leg of the pressure switch had no voltage from the line wire to the motor wire. I removed the pressure switch and disassembled, just cause I wanted to. Found a bug under one terminal of the points. I am pretty sure the pressure switch is/was the problem. I think it will work now, but I have not got the switch back on the tank.

The pressure switch has Furnas, Batavia, Illinois on the top. The nameplate (decal) is not legible. It came on the compressor when it was new. It has an original unloader valve on the side of the switch that has been disconnected for years.

From the information, I listed above can anyone tell me the HP, single or two stage, CFM, and year model?
 
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pepi

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confederatemule

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tinker rick said:
Did you get it to run ? I rebuilt mine about 4 years ago it's slow but works fine.
Click to expand...

Yes, I did. I opened my e-mail to see if there was a notification from here nd low & behold there was this.

The compressor is outside under a lean-to. The pressure gauge is inside. So, I need to rig a gauge outside and then set the regulator. I also need to set the unloader valve.
Can anyone explain how to set the unloader valve?

I let it run fer a pretty good while with the water valve open. It had plenty of water. The valve is not on the bottom, it is on the side of the tank. The valve has a tube that reaches inside and drops down near the bottom of the tank.

I've set many a water well pump regulator and compressor regulators, but never one with an unloader valve mounted to the side of the regulator. Almost all of them were Square D.

I am still curious about HP, single or two stage, CFM, and year model.
 
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confederatemule

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The actual reason fer it not running was a very bright dark green bug. It looked like a potato bug, but I ain't never seen one that color. It was between a set of contacts in the pressure switch.
The motor needed cleaning out even if that was not the real reason.

Mule
 
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confederatemule

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Due to the rain and having to move the lean-to in order to do anythang to the compressor I may not be working on it fer a few days. I don't like working in the rain.
I am gonna try to get some pictures and post them.

Mule
 
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Schurkey

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Two piston/cylinders? Is one bigger than the other? If they're the same size, it's a single-stage. If one is bigger, it's a two-stage.

Horsepower? Ask your friend that rewinds motors. He held it in his hand, he ought to know.
 
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confederatemule

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Schurkey said:
Two piston/cylinders? Is one bigger than the other? If they're the same size, it's a single-stage. If one is bigger, it's a two-stage.

Horsepower? Ask your friend that rewinds motors. He held it in his hand, he ought to know.
Click to expand...

Schurkey, it has two cylinders, large and small, it has two cooling tubes between the small cylinder and the flywheel (pulley). So it is a two stage pump. (Thanks.)

The horsepower of the motor is 1.5. The motor does not have capacitors. It is probably 80 years old. The man that repairs motors only saw the motor, the rest of the compressor was still behind my Garage under the lean-to.

Mule
 
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18406ej

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Dec 5, 2012
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Keizer OR
Mule,

You and I are working on the exact same compressors, yours being a few hundred serial numbers older than mine.

Our air compressor units (tank & pump) are American Brake Shoe Company/Kellogg Division Models “B 321 B” (by itself the pump is Model 321). Going by the last Patent Number on the ID plate our compressors were built in 1951-52.

I am working on the tank right now and just finished cleaning the interior by electrolysis. I coated the inside with phosphoric acid which converts any trace rust into an oxide and then did an at-home hydrostatic test which will give me some peace of mind when the unit is up and running.

I was happy to see that when I was pressure-washing the inside of the tank before starting the cleaning process that there was a minimal amount of rust draining from the tank. There were some large chunks of debris that I dislodged from within the tank, but the matter was a mix of oil and grease with a bit of rust residue tossed in. One good thing about purchasing compressors that may have not received the best of care is that worn piston rings pump plenty of oil-laden air into the tanks, which helps keep rust from forming.

I am also rebuilding the GE 115/230v 1.5hp motor that came with this unit. The motor is a repulsion/induction type which is heavier than the compressor itself.

The restoration of the 321 pump is going to have to wait until I finish rebuilding a Kellogg-American Model 331TV. I have attached a link to the KA 321 owners manual. This is not a vintage 1951 manual, but the 321 has not changed much over the years. The manual has some highly detailed diagrams, maintenance info, and other helpful tidbits including a table listing torque specs for fasteners. For convenience, here is the overall summary of our pumps that I got out of the manual:
Specification:

■Power Range: 1~2HP/0.68~2.49Kw ■Maximum Pressure: 175Psi/12Bar ■Cylinders: 2
■Bore of LP: 3.25”/82.5mm ■Bore of HP: 1.75”/44.5mm ■Stroke: 3”/76mm
■ RPM: 400~800
■Flywheel Dia./Groove: 13.75”/349.25mm/2B Features:
■Cast Iron Crankcase ■Cast Iron Cylinder ■Cast Iron Cylinder Head ■Ductile Iron Crankshaft ■Ductile Iron Conn. Rod ■Centrifugal Unloader
■Cage Needle Bearings Wrist Pin ■Babbitt Bearings Crankshaft ■Taper Main Bearings
■Steel Breather and Brass Sight Glass ■Power Coated Steel Filter Silencer ■Filled with DAB150 Lubricant ■Synthetic Lubricant as Optional

The 321, like other 2-stage pumps can operate up to 175psi, but the higher pressure ranges serve only to strain the pump and the tank assemblies. I run my pumps at about 125psi because I still get the volume I need for most jobs, and none of my tools need much more than 125psi to operate.

I hope you will keep me posted on your progress, and I will try to remember to do the same.

-EJ

http://kelloggcompressor.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/LP321-Manual.pdf
 
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confederatemule

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Messages
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18406ej said:
Mule,
I hope you will keep me posted on your progress, and I will try to remember to do the same.

-EJ

http://kelloggcompressor.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/LP321-Manual.pdf
Click to expand...

I have taken some pictures that I will post, but right now it is on stand still, because of the weather. In between rain, I am having to redo a metal roof that was installed last year. I tried to get the installer to repair it, but after seeing his work from above I am glad he did not show.

Thanks fer the link and the other information.

I am not rebuilding mine. I am simply trying to get it back to pumping air as it did in it's younger years.

Mule
 
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confederatemule

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Jul 8, 2011
Messages
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I have the pressure switch set at 150psi off and 110psi on. As best I can tell everythang is working properly. I am happy.

I don't guess I can post pictures. I don't have an url.
 
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