Kellogg B335UB compressor
- Thread starter 30hamms
- Start date
Thnks for the relpy. I have checked that link. Im figuring a 335 is a 335 regardless. Tv tvx ect, parts interchange. My concern is lack of unloaders at cylinder head. Small copper line from head to crank is pressure lube i think. Could be wrong. Currently this compressor has 3ph 5hp 1720rpm Toshiba 184t frame. Thinking i might go with baldor 184t frame, L1430t for ease of install. I'll source mag starter and new pressure switch ( damaged from previous owner transport). Anyway just wanna get this pump figured out before i start throwing 100$ bills at this thing.
Contacting Kellogg leads me to other independent sellers so kind of frustrating.
The tag stamped on tank says 1989 so its not that old but old enough i guess. Thanks again.
Contacting Kellogg leads me to other independent sellers so kind of frustrating.
The tag stamped on tank says 1989 so its not that old but old enough i guess. Thanks again.
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TRWham
Well-known member
It looks like some of the later Kelloggs during the CompAir period did not include the centrifugal unloader, but used one integrated into the pressures switch. This seems to be one of those. The connected line from the head to the crankshaft bearing carrier is the breather line, and that open elbow on the head is where the intercooler should connect. I do not know of any pressure lubricated Kelloggs.
I have a 335TV - if you want pictures, I can send you some. Also, I posted some pictures of it in the compressor thread. I changed over to a Baldor 5hp single phase and used the old mag starter. Everything works great. It's a real workhorse and when I sandblast it can be run continuously to keep the start and stops to a minimum. Not the quietest, but it's not hard to have a conversation within a few feet of it. Nice find.
Pics would be great thanks. Question though... minimum psi to close tank check valve? Anyone have any thoughts? Moves freely i think. Im thinking its always closed till pump puts pressure through it. I'll probably replace anyway since this thing is all apart.
Really silly question though, hydro testing. Obviously the majority of people will say do it. The cost is irrelevant when it comes to safety. To the naked eye, this tank is clean. No scale or rust spots on outside, very few paint chips even. Still need to pull lower inspection plug, get better look inside.
Thoughts anyone?
Thoughts anyone?