

I ran some 4mm2 from my sub board to the first point. Then 2.5mm2 from point to point.
Man that was a good score for a carton.![]()
We will make a sparky out of you yet, I have a similar circuit arrangement with 3 x 15 amp pendant plugs, 4mm feed on a 20 amp RCD.
You have done well with the cable, my guess is that you got the wire fore about 1/3 of the trade price.
Regards
thanks mateCan anyone covert square mm to AWG ? I'm guessing 4mm2 is about 12 AWG and 2.5mm2 is about 14 AWG. In the US, it is recommended (required ?) that if you start with a heavier gauge wire, you should continue with it.
What are those screws "stored" inside for ? What holds the face plate/receptacle (2 separate pieces here) to the box ? Are the "buttons" switches and/or breakers ?
Interesting that your ground wire is insulated (ours is bare).
Yeah they are switches, ive noticed this isnt as common in the US.
Almost never. They do make a combination switch/outlet but you have to wire the back side yourself to get it to function that way.
I have to admit, I wish 240V was more common around here. The only time it is used in a residence is for a stove/water heater/clothes dryer. Not common in most garages/sheds either (which is why there are so many questions on GJ !)
FYI - In the US, cable like that is called NM-B (industry terminology) or Romex™. 14 gauge has a white outer sheath and 12 gauge has a yellow outer sheath.
Thanks mate. I dont think your supposed to, a 15a circuit should be the one point on its own breaker I think. I have 3 15amp points at the moment anyway which is pushing the limit of my 32a feed. I dont use more than 1 at a time. I ran the circuit in 4mm2 cos i got a 100m drum off the sparkies at work for a box of beer.
I wanna upgrade my house from 63a to 80a. Then pull a new 16mm2 feed to the shed and put a 50a breaker on that.
Kenfab,
Do you have an RCD/CB combo on the feed to the outlets?
I would be a little inclined to fit a 20 or 25 amp unit on that circuit as that will protect the lowest rated cable which is the 2.5 mm. I suspect you would never use all the three outlets at once and even if you do I don't think you would ever draw 25 amps.
Great idea to upgrade your service, in Victoria we would struggle to do this under the current Service and Installation rules.
Regards
There will be 5x gpos on the circuit i have the choice of 16a rcd or 20a cb. I definitely wont run everything at once mostly battery chargers, shed radio etc. im just sick of extension leads and power boards.. Was leaning towards the 20a cb.
Apparently i can just get my fuse changed in the pit and change my main switch to 80a. Pulling the new feed to the shed will be the worst. only have 6mm tps at the moment so ill need a new conduit.
Ill put up some pics of my sub board when i connect the circuit. I need 2x gpos to finish it off.

"Appliances" have On/Off switches. You can always unplug it. We get 2 outlets in a smaller space.Ah ok. Would you want to have switches? I guess im just used to it.
Yes and no. If you plan for it, it is not really a big deal.Yeah i dunno how you guys cope with 110v? Must make it hard in the shed with welders, compressors, air cons etc.
This is what knob and tube looks likeAh k i have read romex alot on the forums. And from watching a few shows on netflix i heard that knob and tube is bad haha.

"Appliances" have On/Off switches. You can always unplug it. We get 2 outlets in a smaller space.
Yes and no. If you plan for it, it is not really a big deal.
Different voltage and currents use different plugs. Plus, there is a whole second set of "twist lock" plugs. Not common, but used in a lot of industrial application.
This is what knob and tube looks like
Those are individual conductors. The "knob" hold the wire away from the wood. The "tub" allows the wire to pass through the wood. The insulation was cotton and rubber. This was installed pre-1930-1940(?). The stuff is so old now, in most cases, it has fallen off.
You will struggle even getting the old cables out, plan B sounds great.
Yes they are Clipsal and I included a switch so that they are not on all the time.
Regards
"Appliances" have On/Off switches. You can always unplug it. We get 2 outlets in a smaller space.
Yes and no. If you plan for it, it is not really a big deal.
Different voltage and currents use different plugs. Plus, there is a whole second set of "twist lock" plugs. Not common, but used in a lot of industrial application.
Those are individual conductors. The "knob" hold the wire away from the wood. The "tub" allows the wire to pass through the wood. The insulation was cotton and rubber. This was installed pre-1930-1940(?). The stuff is so old now, in most cases, it has fallen off.
American power points are the same size. After using both I'd rather have the switches like in Australia. A lot of things I'd rather switch of than unplug
Good point! Where did you use the aussie ones? Over here?
Thats awesome i reckon ill purchase one!
I have a question Mr Cup!
I have a 20a breaker feeding my plasma on 4mm2 with a 16m run.
It tripped several times today cutting. Im running 117v and 45a does this mean i need a supply capable of 117 x 45a = 5265w when i only have 4800w available
My maximum cut specs are 132v x 45a = 5940w
Is that roughly right? And should i go with a 25a breaker? 25a x 240v = 6000w
Am i right with these maths or is that not really how it works?
Spot on Kenfab
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Volt_to_Watt_Calculator.htm
The calculation assumes your power factor is 1 in reality yours could be .8 or .9
The bottom line is using 4mm you could legally put in a 32 amp breaker.
What rating is the socket outlet that you are using?
Regards
Spot on Kenfab
http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/Volt_to_Watt_Calculator.htm
The calculation assumes your power factor is 1 in reality yours could be .8 or .9
The bottom line is using 4mm you could legally put in a 32 amp breaker.
What rating is the socket outlet that you are using?
Regards
Thanks mate! It seemed to easy haha. The socket is rated to 15a haha. I have been looking at clipsal 56 series outlets. Should i be changing that asap?
Thats awesome! How do you like it?
Gumby says welcome to the shed
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Shed update:
Only a small one, front half of my shed has no power points which is fairly annoying.
I ran some 4mm2 from my sub board to the first point. Then 2.5mm2 from point to point.
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Gumby says welcome to the shed
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Hopefully finish the circuit tomorrow and do a bit more tidy up tomorrow. Got a paying plasma job too, hopefully.![]()

Good one Ken.![]()

Kenfab, as I said we will make a sparky out of you yet.
Just a couple of tips:
1. run a timber batten say a 2 x 1 beside the conduit down to the floor as this will provide some mechanical protection to the conduit. Presumably this is the submain from your house that you are going to upgrade?
2. I couldn't make out the size of you main isolator looks like a 32 amp unit? If so when you upgrade your submain you should upgrade that as well.
3. Can you post some pics of you house main switchboard as I need to sus out what feeds your submain?
4. Your main isolator is an RCD/MCB combo that protects the whole installation and I see that you have another down stream of that. In practice you would not need to have the later as the main isolator ( RCD/MCB) affords the protection in the first instance, quite often you do get nuisance tripping in a situation like you have.
I trust this helps.![]()
1. Ok will do!
2. Yes its a 32a rcd, yes i will be going to a 50a when i eventually upgrade.
3. A 32a mcb feeds the sub board with about 30m of 6mm2 tps.
4. I was a bit limited, i got all the nhp gear from the sparkies at work for free. I
Didnt realise they were so cheap though.
I will change the 20a plasma cb to the 25a i bought then hopefully im all good for a bit.
Thanks for the tips!