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Kerosene vs Propane

rinker1

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Ohio
Im thinking of buying a 100,000 btu torpedo heater but dont know which is more economical to run. Whats everybody think? And any pros and cons? Thanks
 
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tdkkart

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My vote would be propane. Cleaner because the fuel is self contained, no transfering from one container to another.
Kerosene/fuel oil heaters tend to stink more and give me a headache.
One problem with propane is that it creates alot of condensation. If your garage is well insulated it's less of a problem, but still there.
I haven't done a cost comparison but I'm betting propane is cheaper.
 
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rinker1

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Ohio
My vote would be propane. Cleaner because the fuel is self contained, no transfering from one container to another.
Kerosene/fuel oil heaters tend to stink more and give me a headache.
One problem with propane is that it creates alot of condensation. If your garage is well insulated it's less of a problem, but still there.
I haven't done a cost comparison but I'm betting propane is cheaper.

Thanks tdkkart, Does the propane heaters have a thermostat like some kerosene heaters do? I'd like to be able to set a temperature and let it start and shutoff on its own
 

jjkrjh

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I have a 125,000btu from Sam's club which is kerosene. It will also burn diesel and 2 other fuels that I can't remember right now. It burns very clean, I only have fumes when it is first turned on. We've worked in the garage all day with it running,(with no headaches or smelling like kerosene when going inside). Kerosene is still $3.99 a gallon here. Tried running 5 gallons of diesel thru it. $2.79 a gallon with very good results. Slight scent change but not heavy.The new road diesel is pretty clean. It can be hard to find propane sometimes and is more temperature sensitive. That is why I opted for the kerosene/diesel.
 

Chetter

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I don't believe that any of the torpedo style heaters can be run like a forced air style furnace in that it will turn itself on and off. You need to go with something different that runs off a t-stat to do that. I used to use kerosene, didn't like the fumes, then I bought a Mr Heater infared 3 burner style that mounts on a 20lb propane bottle that used for probably 8 years. That worked ok and heated my garage very nicely. I finally decided to do the Mr Heater Big Maxx forced air furnace made for garages and man, that was the best money spent. I set the t-stat at 52 degrees and forget it, cycles on and off as needed, and it sure is nice not to have the sweating on my tools and cars. I push it up when I am going to work in the garage for a little more warmth and return it to 52 when done.
 

jjkrjh

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Also turning torpedo heaters on and off is what makes the heavy fumes that can cause headaches. I usually start mine and let it run until the end is glowing red and then shut the doors.
 

Charles (in GA)

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I've never seen a propane torpedo heater over about 30,000 Btu. They make them, now I know why you don't see them.

http://www.masterheaters.com/propane/

Look at the minimum tank size........ 100 lbs. How would you like to drag that around? Or take it and get it refilled?, This is not going to work with a BBQ grill propane cylinder if that is what you were thinking.

Needing that kind of heat on a continuing basis means you need a permanent built in heater. If you need occasional heat, go with Kerosene.

Charles
 
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Maryland
I've got a Reddy/Heater propane that uses the 20lb tank and that lasts me at least 5 days of constant use. Garage is 38' x 22' with 13' ceiling. I do have two large ceiling fans. Keeps it nice. The heater is the variable output model that goes from 30,000 to 55,000 BTU. I warm the space up at 55k and then throttle back to 30k for a while then shut her down. Stays warm for a good long time. Then just turn it on as needed.

With that being said I do plan on installing a ceiling mount heater with a thermostat just to make life simple.

RLP55V.jpg
 
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xjfish

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I've never seen a propane torpedo heater over about 30,000 Btu. They make them, now I know why you don't see them.

http://www.masterheaters.com/propane/

Look at the minimum tank size........ 100 lbs. How would you like to drag that around? Or take it and get it refilled?, This is not going to work with a BBQ grill propane cylinder if that is what you were thinking.

Needing that kind of heat on a continuing basis means you need a permanent built in heater. If you need occasional heat, go with Kerosene.

Charles

Bumping a very old thread...Sorry! Do these larger propane torpedo heaters really require a 100lb tank?

Looking at trading a Kerosene unit for one of same output... Kerosene unit works great but everything else I have uses 20lb tanks... They must work fine, but are burned through quickly?
 

American Locomotive

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They actually don't work fine. The high-output propane heaters draw so much propane out of the small tanks that they can pull the temperature of the tank down to well below freezing. The propane tanks get so cold that ice starts to build up on them, and the pressure inside the tank drops to the point where the heater just cuts out.

We tried a 20 lb tank on a 100,000+ BTU propane convection heater. It'd run for about 10-15 minutes at a time before the tank got too cold. You let the tank warm up for a half hour or so, and the heater would work for another 10-15 minutes.

The larger tanks have much more surface area to absorb heat and keep the propane evaporating.
 

HoosierBuddy

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The thing about those propane heaters that run off 20# tanks is they gig you so hard on the refill charge that it's pretty much a crime. They hold about 3 gallons of propane. It's like 20 bucks for an exchange. You do the math.

OK...I'll do it for you

20/3=6.67/gal propane

If you figure 95,000 BTU/gal propane and 165,000 BTU/gal fuel oil

That means the break even price for fuel oil is $11.58 per gallon. In other words...if you can buy fuel oil for less than $11.58 you're saving money vs. propane in 20 pound tanks.

This is why my grill runs off NG.

Phil
 

jpinca

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NorCal
They actually don't work fine. The high-output propane heaters draw so much propane out of the small tanks that they can pull the temperature of the tank down to well below freezing. The propane tanks get so cold that ice starts to build up on them, and the pressure inside the tank drops to the point where the heater just cuts out.

We tried a 20 lb tank on a 100,000+ BTU propane convection heater. It'd run for about 10-15 minutes at a time before the tank got too cold. You let the tank warm up for a half hour or so, and the heater would work for another 10-15 minutes.

The larger tanks have much more surface area to absorb heat and keep the propane evaporating.

I can verify that first hand. I tried my 125k BTU torpedo with my 20lb grill tank and it froze up. I bought a 100lb tank and that lasts me a couple of years in N. CA. The tank is ~ 150lbs full, so not super easy to handle, but not ridiculous either.

I'm planning to convert my generator over to propane so I can use the tank for emergency power.
 

Randy in Maine

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The Beach
Im thinking of buying a 100,000 btu torpedo heater but dont know which is more economical to run. Whats everybody think? And any pros and cons? Thanks

Call your propane delivery guy and see if they will give you a 50 gallon tank and buy the propane torpedo heater. My guy me a 25' hose so I could put the tank outside the building with the torpedo inside.

Mine is just a little 30-75K unit but it heated my shop while I was getting floor ready to be poured. Worked good when I needed it.
 

Fordman7795

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Bay City, MI
The thing about those propane heaters that run off 20# tanks is they gig you so hard on the refill charge that it's pretty much a crime. They hold about 3 gallons of propane. It's like 20 bucks for an exchange. You do the math.

OK...I'll do it for you

20/3=6.67/gal propane

If you figure 95,000 BTU/gal propane and 165,000 BTU/gal fuel oil

That means the break even price for fuel oil is $11.58 per gallon. In other words...if you can buy fuel oil for less than $11.58 you're saving money vs. propane in 20 pound tanks.

This is why my grill runs off NG.

Phil

There about 4.7 gallons of propane in a 20lb tank.
 

xjfish

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Feb 22, 2014
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Thanks guys so much for the help/replies. I'm going to keep my 150k Kerosene heater for now. Next year I will (hopefully) be using a hanging natural gas heater. I figured the propane unit would be easier to store indefinitely and has variable output but I'm not going to set up a 100lb LP tank for a temp. setup. Carry on...
 

toyotadriver

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Fuel oil/kerosene has about 138,000 BTU per gallon. Propane is about 91,000 BTU per gallon.

https://www.irvingenergy.com/btu-per-dollar-calculator/

Based on the calculator, propane should be cheaper most of the time for me. My local rates for propane is $2 per gallon when portable bottles are filled at my propane supplier (some places are more expensive for small bottles of propane but where I fill it is the best price locally). $1.09 if I fill them myself from my home 500 gallon tank. Kerosene is still $3.99 at the pump. Diesel is $2.39 per gallon at the moment where I live and compared to propane at $2.00 per gallon, diesel would be cheaper.

All unvented heaters kick TONS of moisture into the building. Yes they are more efficient but the amount of moisture they put into the building is bad.

Go vented as soon as you can. You won't want to go back once you do.



So, if I fill my bottles from my main tank, propane is cheaper then diesel and gasoline.
 

dsimatt

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Dec 9, 2012
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6,458
Thanks guys so much for the help/replies. I'm going to keep my 150k Kerosene heater for now. Next year I will (hopefully) be using a hanging natural gas heater. I figured the propane unit would be easier to store indefinitely and has variable output but I'm not going to set up a 100lb LP tank for a temp. setup. Carry on...

I have a 75-125k heater and I run it on a 40 lb tank without any issue thou I rarely need it on more than 20 minutes at a time. I wish I had bought a kerosene heater instead of propane but it is nice having the big tank for grilling all summer.
 
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Phillip1

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Jan 26, 2017
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I have deWalt small kerosene heater and for two years i havent got any trouble. I dont recognize smell also
 

HoosierBuddy

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All unvented heaters kick TONS of moisture into the building. Yes they are more efficient but the amount of moisture they put into the building is bad.

.

True Dat. My son has been doing a lot of wood lathe work lately in my barn, which is pretty drafty and very cold. I set a torpedo style heater up for him just to blow a little warm air at him while he was turning his project.

You would not believe how much condensation was forming on every cold metal surface in the barn. Metal shelves, the lathe, my table saw...all had water on them withing a couple of hours.

Phil
 

American Locomotive

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In general, every gallon of gasoline or diesel you burn will also create a gallon of water. Since fire is well, hot, you end up with a lot of water vapor.
 

fnieto

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This little guy works well with doors closed. I've had it for close to 25 years and just replaced the thermal coupler (OEM) two days ago. Back in business!

Its a propane unit.
 

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Blue XJ

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Dec 10, 2012
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Washington, Michigan
The thing about those propane heaters that run off 20# tanks is they gig you so hard on the refill charge that it's pretty much a crime. They hold about 3 gallons of propane. It's like 20 bucks for an exchange. You do the math.

OK...I'll do it for you

20/3=6.67/gal propane

If you figure 95,000 BTU/gal propane and 165,000 BTU/gal fuel oil

That means the break even price for fuel oil is $11.58 per gallon. In other words...if you can buy fuel oil for less than $11.58 you're saving money vs. propane in 20 pound tanks.

This is why my grill runs off NG.

Phil


20# tanks hold about 4.5 gallons and you need to find a better place to refill them. The place by me (Tractor Supply) charges whatever the going rate is. I paid $25 last week to get 3 20 pound tanks filled, that's what, about $2 a gallon.
 

AdamIsAdam

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Nov 28, 2014
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Long Island, NY
Reading an old thread and, well, getting discouraged. I don't want moisture, but I don't have a way to get more than 110v. Free standing 2 story garage (I only have bottom floor) is all concrete walls and ceiling except for 2 car garage doors. it's 600 sf. Partially below grade. It's my first season in it, so I'm going to see how cold it gets in there. I'm not in there every day. In the summer it's HUMID in there. Even now, dry NY weather, it's 50% humidity inside, which is fine, but higher than outside. I'm worried about adding any moisture to the air. I have a 50 year old car in there that I prefer not to KILL!

I started thinking I'd use a 50k BTU kerosene torpedo just to take the chill off as needed, but am worried about moisture.

Any other thoughts?
 

finn

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Look at spending a little more up front and getting a vented hanging propane heater.

As pointed out in an earlier post, once you bite the bullet, you’ll never look back.
 

toyotadriver

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Reading an old thread and, well, getting discouraged. I don't want moisture, but I don't have a way to get more than 110v. Free standing 2 story garage (I only have bottom floor) is all concrete walls and ceiling except for 2 car garage doors. it's 600 sf. Partially below grade. It's my first season in it, so I'm going to see how cold it gets in there. I'm not in there every day. In the summer it's HUMID in there. Even now, dry NY weather, it's 50% humidity inside, which is fine, but higher than outside. I'm worried about adding any moisture to the air. I have a 50 year old car in there that I prefer not to KILL!

I started thinking I'd use a 50k BTU kerosene torpedo just to take the chill off as needed, but am worried about moisture.

Any other thoughts?



The unvented heater WILL add moisture. I don't recommend them if you can avoid it. They are ok for temp heating but **** for long term heating.

The vented propane heaters only use 120V to run the fans. That's the route I'd recommend.
 

Bretny

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Dutchess county NY
Any kind of vented heater is going to be better than a non vented type. Many claim "ventless" like its some magic flame that dosnt burn up all the oxygen. Fire burns oxygen, oxygen you also need to breath to live. Spend a few bucks more on a hanging propane unit heater.
 

AdamIsAdam

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Nov 28, 2014
Messages
65
Location
Long Island, NY
Good news! I'm getting a 240v line run, so I can go electric heat! wahoo! I'll likely be able to go up to 40amp, so I guess 750 watts/ 25,000 BTU. Hopefully that will help. I posted this up on a different, electric heat thread.
 

6768rogues

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Nov 28, 2007
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Western NY
Propane has about 92,000 BTUs per gallon.
Kerosene has about 135,000 BTUs per gallon.
I prefer propane because it has less smell and as others have said, no fuel to pour.
 

toyotadriver

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Good news! I'm getting a 240v line run, so I can go electric heat! wahoo! I'll likely be able to go up to 40amp, so I guess 750 watts/ 25,000 BTU. Hopefully that will help. I posted this up on a different, electric heat thread.




What's your electrical rate per KWH?
 

Lelandwelds

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Central Texas
How does a fuel burning appliance add water to the air? Is it a chemical reaction of some sort?

Burning HYDROCARBONS gives you mainly H2O and CO2. You can Wiki the formula. Every two H gives you one water molecule for every fuel not just propane.

TSC charges bulk gallon propane price regardless of size or how many tanks you put it in. Very unique. Many places only fill a 20lb with 17lb or 15lb. Any partials are topped off and resold to next customer at all other suppliers.
 

Dragfluid

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Pillager, MN
Burning HYDROCARBONS gives you mainly H2O and CO2. You can Wiki the formula. Every two H gives you one water molecule for every fuel not just propane.

TSC charges bulk gallon propane price regardless of size or how many tanks you put it in. Very unique. Many places only fill a 20lb with 17lb or 15lb. Any partials are topped off and resold to next customer at all other suppliers.

Also the same reason you see water dripping from the tailpipe of a car.
 

chewy7

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WISCONSIN
the advantage of a forced air kerosene/diesel heater over propane is that you can run a thermostat to regulate heat
 
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