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Kevin54's....."The Addition"

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NUTTSGT

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Eric......That is the area. I may only use half of it for storage, just for some lightweight items. I'm going to run studs up vertical to the end truss and frame out a door, but I may run some 2x's back horizontally so I have a level area. I really don't need more storage, I just need to get rid of some stuff. I already have a 4x14' closet in the garage that the wife uses for Christmas items, then she has a concrete pit in her building that is used for her storage, then a closet in the house garage that has 2 deep freezers in it, plus some cabinets for storage......see a pattern here? TOO MUCH **** for two people.:lol_hitti

Too much ****, nah, too much is . . . just enough. :beer:


That spot will create the perfect storage space for stuff you rarely use, Christmas lights, extra 5 gallon buckets, spare gas cans, blow up doll collection, extra shingles, out of season items, etc...etc...etc....
 
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Kevin54

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Too much ****, nah, too much is . . . just enough. :beer:


That spot will create the perfect storage space for stuff you rarely use, Christmas lights, extra 5 gallon buckets, spare gas cans, blow up doll collection, extra shingles, out of season items, etc...etc...etc....

I have to keep those handy :spit:

One reason I don't want too much up there is the way the overhang is now as we had to take a post out of the middle of the width, so any significant weight will want to pull down on that area. But if I put it over on the left hand side, and build a floor in, I should be fine for lighter stuff. And the dolls stay close buy. End of discussion there :lol:
 
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Kevin54

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I did make a small purchase today and bought me a bandsaw. Originally the lady wanted $400, and it didn't sell at an Estate Sale, so she listed it on CL for $250. I asked her what the least she would take, and she told me that I can have it for $200. It is a Delta, and made in the good 'ole U.S.of A. :rocker:

If there is anyone looking for a roll top desk and you are around the Dayton area, she has a roll top made for computers. She was asking $800 but knocked it down to $400. This desk is solid wood (oak) and close to the $3000range when new. I didn't have the cash or I would have had it, but then again, I don't need it either as I don't have the room. Here is her CL ad http://dayton.craigslist.org/fuo/5217953147.html I'm not getting anything out of this, but I figured it would make a great kids room or even for adults for the price, office desk

00f0f_eNG7KRXPymf_600x450.jpg
 

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dlcwent

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Nice score Kevin. Let me be the first to say YOU ****. $200.00? How are you going to sleep tonight stealing from that little ole lady.
 
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Kevin54

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Driveway widened. Now to let it set through the Winter to get compacted good, then get everything repaved next Spring.
 

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Scott V

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Sweet. You gotta be lovin' all that extra space now Kevin!

I'm digging the Olds conv't. I didn't read the entire thread; is it a '64? ...442?
 

bczygan

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Driveway widened. Now to let it set through the Winter to get compacted good, then get everything repaved next Spring.

A nice wide entrance to paradise.

Now you can line up the project vehicles!

And a you **** on the band saw.

I have a horizontal, but keep looking for a good vertical. At one time Government Liquidation had a bunch of 36" DoAll's in Louisiana that were going for $300. Wish I could have got one.

Bill
 
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Kevin54

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Sweet. You gotta be lovin' all that extra space now Kevin!

I'm digging the Olds conv't. I didn't read the entire thread; is it a '64? ...442?[/QUOTE]

It's a '64 but NOT a 442. My wife's first car was a '64, 442, so when she was 2 years in remission from breast cancer, I bought her a '64 Olds Cutlass. I couldn't find a 442, nor could I find a hardtop at the time, so she is stuck with a convertible. :lol: It needs a little work to bring it up to my standards. Now that I have a lift, I can address some of the oil leaks in it. And this winter I am going to pull the engine and go all through it with new seals and so on, plus clean up the engine bay.

A nice wide entrance to paradise.

Now you can line up the project vehicles!

And a you **** on the band saw.

I have a horizontal, but keep looking for a good vertical. At one time Government Liquidation had a bunch of 36" DoAll's in Louisiana that were going for $300. Wish I could have got one.

Bill

Not a paradise yet Bill, but I am slowly getting there. It may not be a paradise by a lot of standards, but it will be for me. Next on the agenda is getting the electric done, then after that will be the insulation, then the drywall. Hopefully done by the end of October. THEN I can get things put away into their place. The inside of the garage is still a mess, but I can't do anything until drywall is up as I have to move all of my cabinets. All of my cabinets go into the bumpout as do my rolling toolboxes. So it's coming along slowly. Oh, and the electrical should be started next week. I have to come up with a plan as far as a sketch where the outlets, switches, and panel box goes. As soon as that is done, the electrician will pull the permit for things and get a material list together for me. :bounce:
 

drivesitfar

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Kevin: maybe a 220 in each corner of new space maybe knowing that you can't use more than one at time if your short on power. Maybe some extra internet wiring before you close up walls too.

Your place is really looking good. There's room for some porcelain letters above your new garage to say Kevin's cave or an old metal sign?

Have you set up and tried your new inversion table?

Have a great weekend
 
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Kevin54

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Drives....I haven't tried the inversion table yet. Heck, I still have to finish putting it together. It's in the home office just sitting there :eek:

I really don't need to run internet into the new part as I have wireless in the garage. I do need to figure out my lighting though and have a thread in the Lighting section, but the last I looked, no replies. I wanted to put in canned lights, but the electrician said I would be better off with fluorescents. I don't know whether to go with 4' lights or go with 8' lights, then I don't know how many either. That's where I need help and maybe some pics. The addition won't have a black ceiling, it'll be white and smooth. The walls.....:dunno: I may make them the same color as the existing garage (maroon) and add the corrugated metal at the bottom.

The bumpout has four can lights in it, and the overhang in the addition has three can lights underneath. I don't need a lot of light under the overhang, but I need light for the main portion of the addition.

As far as 220 outlets......I may run one 220 outlet at the front of the garage just in case I ever move my air compressor, but I doubt it will get moved from where it is at. Other than that, I don't have anything that is 220 other than my mills, and they are wired where they are staying. I know they won't go into the new portion. And my welder is 110v and gets me by as I don't know how to weld anyways. My welder is enough for sheet metal. Anything larger that needs some good welding, we have a welding shop here in town that I can take a part to if need be. And if it is something structural like a car frame, I know I wouldn't be welding it anyways nor would I trust my welds.

Today, I have to add a wall up above where the overhang is from the existing garage to finish that off, then add in a couple of outlet boxes for the electrician. Then I have to make up a drawing so the electrician can pull an electrical permit. I was hoping that he could start this week for electric but I don't think I'll be ready for him until next week. :sad: I did get my grass seeded out back of the garage where everything was torn up, I have to 'till up beside the garage and get it seeded yet, then I can finish staining the garage. I'm about 1/4 the way done with staining so far. And this week is going to be an ideal week as we aren't supposed to have any rain for the next ten days, plus cooler weather. Hopefully I can knock down some on the to-do list.
 

theoldwizard1

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I did get my grass seeded out back of the garage where everything was torn up, I have to 'till up beside the garage and get it seeded yet, then I can finish staining the garage. I'm about 1/4 the way done with staining so far. And this week is going to be an ideal week as we aren't supposed to have any rain for the next ten days, plus cooler weather. Hopefully I can knock down some on the to-do list.

Good weather for both staining and seeding. Of course, you are now obligated to water 2 - 4 times a day for the next couple of weeks. (Glad my son is doing sprinklers and hydroseeding)
 
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Kevin54

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Good weather for both staining and seeding. Of course, you are now obligated to water 2 - 4 times a day for the next couple of weeks. (Glad my son is doing sprinklers and hydroseeding)

That it is, but I'm stuck inside trying to get some outlet boxes mounted, and come up with a game plan as far as lights. I have to make a drawing today or sketch, for the electrician showing what is where, and what I need so he can get his ducks in a row. And I have to get two gable end walls furred out to match the 2x6 studs at the square. And I keep forgetting, but I have to also strap the ceiling which I will have to get done this week for the drywallers and insulation guys. I guess I'm going to have to call my neighbor Ashton for his help. Anything above shoulder height is just a struggle anymore:mad:
 
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Kevin54

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I did get (4) outdoor lights mounted, but only one is hooked up. The rest will be up to the electrician to hook up when he gets started. one light at both entrance doors, and one light at the front edge of the garage on the outside edge of the garage doors.
 

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Kevin54

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Aaaarrrrggghhh!!!!!! I absolutely HATE having to fix someones screwup. Ashton and I spent the whole day yesterday taking what should have been a simple job and fixing a major screwup. :mad:

The front wall, where the overhang is inside of the garage, we had to build it down so to be able to close it off. The goddamn trusses are racked. :wtf: So to build the wall, instead of just nailing some 2x's to the beam running across, we had to cut a 2x6 on a taper which causes a slight bow to the wall and build the 2x4's out further by a few inches just to make the wall plumb. If not, the wall would have been out actually by about 3 1/2". It's still going to have a slight lean from top to bottom, but not nearly as noticeable. And looking at some other trusses, one or two have been pulled about 4" and this is on a scissor truss.

I don't know what Dan and Craig did because I couldn't be on the roof when they were putting on the sheeting, but the bottom of the trusses where they sit on the wall are sitting correctly, but somehow they pulled the tops to the sheeting, therefore screwing things up. One reason I now have to use strapping on the ceiling for the drywall. Just makes me sick. Once it is all behind drywall, no one will know except you guys, Ashton, and myself. You all now have to be sworn to secrecy. :lol: It's water under the bridge now, but having to spend the time and the extra money to fix it just pisses me off.

And no......I can't call Dan and Craig back, as Craig and I parted ways on sort of bad terms. He tried to screw his partner (Dan) out of $4000, and tried to put it on me and screw me out of $4000. Long story for later. But when we were discussing final payment, Dan caught him in a lie, and so did I, and Ashton heard it also as Ashton was here when things were discussed part way through. All the more reason for a contract people. I didn't have one, and didn't feel the need as Craig has done a lot of work for me in the past without one. But a few years of drinking has caught up with him and he doesn't write things down and leaves that up to Dan his partner. Dan backed up what Craig and I originally discussed, and **** came to a head on the last day between those two. Whether they are still partners or not is anyones guess.

Oh well....like I said.....water under the bridge. Now it's up to me to finish the inside for the electrician and drywaller.
 

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cbacres

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Man, that really ***** Kevin, after all you did to help him out. It's sad that things seem to end like this too much anymore.

At least it's not a major deal to fix, and look at it as additional bracing.

Looking good, and I'll keep it a secret.:lol_hitti
 

drivesitfar

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Kevin: sorry you are still having issues with contractors. personally i thought you were paying the guy way too much for just showing up especially since he was always having issues with his equipment and health. and you were nice enough to do some of his work or pay Ashton or another guy to do it.

i'm guessing you made a friend for life with the neighbor kid (Ashton)?

good luck with the wiring.

the inversion table has helped more issues on me besides just the back. not saying it will help your shoulder if it has a tear or something worse, but it might give you some relief.

i had a shoulder left rotator cuff repair done in 2003 after injuring it again for maybe the 50th time over 25 years. it hasn't hurt since and i had our baseball team's Dr. (Seattle Mariners) do the surgery and i was hitting golf balls 400 yards withing 6 months after surgery. find a good sports Dr. if you have good insurance and maybe he can help your shoulder, but i'm not sure because i don't recall hearing how you injured it.

cheers
 

bczygan

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Aaaarrrrggghhh!!!!!! I absolutely HATE having to fix someones screwup. Ashton and I spent the whole day yesterday taking what should have been a simple job and fixing a major screwup. :mad:

The front wall, where the overhang is inside of the garage, we had to build it down so to be able to close it off. The goddamn trusses are racked. :wtf: So to build the wall, instead of just nailing some 2x's to the beam running across, we had to cut a 2x6 on a taper which causes a slight bow to the wall and build the 2x4's out further by a few inches just to make the wall plumb. If not, the wall would have been out actually by about 3 1/2". It's still going to have a slight lean from top to bottom, but not nearly as noticeable. And looking at some other trusses, one or two have been pulled about 4" and this is on a scissor truss.

I don't know what Dan and Craig did because I couldn't be on the roof when they were putting on the sheeting, but the bottom of the trusses where they sit on the wall are sitting correctly, but somehow they pulled the tops to the sheeting, therefore screwing things up. One reason I now have to use strapping on the ceiling for the drywall. Just makes me sick. Once it is all behind drywall, no one will know except you guys, Ashton, and myself. You all now have to be sworn to secrecy. :lol: It's water under the bridge now, but having to spend the time and the extra money to fix it just pisses me off.

And no......I can't call Dan and Craig back, as Craig and I parted ways on sort of bad terms. He tried to screw his partner (Dan) out of $4000, and tried to put it on me and screw me out of $4000. Long story for later. But when we were discussing final payment, Dan caught him in a lie, and so did I, and Ashton heard it also as Ashton was here when things were discussed part way through. All the more reason for a contract people. I didn't have one, and didn't feel the need as Craig has done a lot of work for me in the past without one. But a few years of drinking has caught up with him and he doesn't write things down and leaves that up to Dan his partner. Dan backed up what Craig and I originally discussed, and **** came to a head on the last day between those two. Whether they are still partners or not is anyones guess.

Oh well....like I said.....water under the bridge. Now it's up to me to finish the inside for the electrician and drywaller.

3 1/2" off eh?

That's exactly how out of square a foundation was, for a million dollar custom house we were building for a client. Winter dig and foundation pour.

It happens.

Won't tell you how our rough and finish carpenters and other trades made up things to fix it.

Customer never knew.

Nothing is completely straight, plumb or true in construction.

Bill
 
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Kevin54

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Kevin: sorry you are still having issues with contractors. personally i thought you were paying the guy way too much for just showing up especially since he was always having issues with his equipment and health. and you were nice enough to do some of his work or pay Ashton or another guy to do it.
i'm guessing you made a friend for life with the neighbor kid (Ashton)?

good luck with the wiring.

the inversion table has helped more issues on me besides just the back. not saying it will help your shoulder if it has a tear or something worse, but it might give you some relief.

i had a shoulder left rotator cuff repair done in 2003 after injuring it again for maybe the 50th time over 25 years. it hasn't hurt since and i had our baseball team's Dr. (Seattle Mariners) do the surgery and i was hitting golf balls 400 yards withing 6 months after surgery. find a good sports Dr. if you have good insurance and maybe he can help your shoulder, but i'm not sure because i don't recall hearing how you injured it.

cheers

Drives....I'm not still having problems with the contractors, just with some of the work they did that I am now finding. I knew that one or two was racked (trusses), but I didn't think the end wall was. But we have it fixed, and have all of our nailers in. I just have to get a drawing made for the electrician so he can do his part, and then get it insulated before I put strapping on the ceiling for the drywaller. I need to get my light fixtures to see how they will be wired up. I may just run all of the lights in conduit so nothing has to be pulled down for my drywall guy. The outlets though will all be in the wall. The lift will also be ran in conduit.

As far as the Teeter board, I'll get it together this weekend and give it a go. It won't help my shoulder though as I don't have a shoulder. It has been ground on, drilled on, screwed into multiple times, and finally removed. all that is in there now is a composite antibiotic spacer. My shoulder, or what is left of it is permanently dislocated. The axillary nerve has been severed, the biceps is not attached, and the deltoid muscle no longer works due to the severed axillary nerve. That's what is so aggravating is that I can no longer hold a board and nail it at the same time because I can't raise my arm up to even level, then it wants to raise up crooked. Getting on a roof is tough because I now lose my balance. Before all of this, I could walk down a wall to set trusses. Now I have to stand on the ground and watch someone else.

I did talk to a friend of mine yesterday, and I can get his scaffolding. This will make it way easier to strap the ceiling instead of working off of ladders. All I have to do is go pick it up. I'm gradually getting things done, and I figure I have about a month left to get things wrapped up before it starts to get cold. I may insulate the bumpout myself so I can get it drywalled, then I can get most of my stuff put away. I have stuff strewn all over my garage. Disorganization just slows me down all of the more. :lol: It all takes time though.

Bill....I know nothing is straight or true in construction, but in a 28' straight line, I expect things to be a little straight. I have one truss racked almost 4" from peak outside to peak inside (scissor trusses) and that is in the span of about three foot. Now that is really bad. The ends of the truss are in the correct position, but the top has been pulled over to meet the sheeting. So not only is it racked from top to bottom, but by them pulling the truss, it also threw a bow into it. That is why I have to put strapping (nailers) on the ceiling for the drywall. Either that, or the ends of the sheets of drywall would have to be trimmed to match the trusses. That would be a pain in the *** for my drywall guy.

NOW.......on a good note.....I went to HD to look at light fixtures, and while I was there, I was going to look at their Hott Dawg heaters. They didn't have any. So on the way home, I swung by Carter Lumber to see what they had in the way of their garage heaters. They had three that were marked down. Two were 45,000btu heaters and the third was a 75,000btu heater. I was looking for something in the 60,000 range but they would have to order one at full price. So I opted for the 75,000 heater. I would rather have a larger heater than too small of a heater that runs all of the time. The heater is a Hamilton hanging heater just like the Hott Dawg heater. The good part, the heater was originally $899, but it was marked down to $479. So I saved $420. I'm glad HD didn't have anything :thumbup: That makes up for the lumber I had to buy to finish off the end walls and then some.

BTW......if anyone around Springfield, Ohio is looking for a great deal on a garage heater, Carter Lumber still has two Hamilton, 45,000btu heaters marked down, but not advertised for $379 each. Originally the cost of these was $600. I have one in my existing garage, and have had it for around 7 or 8 years now, and it works great. But that is for a 28'x36' garage with 8' ceilings. I don't know whether the 45,000 comes with the conversion kit or not to convert from NG to LP, but the kit is only something like $50.

And if someone would want one, but can't make it there for a while, I can pick one up for you and you can pick it up from me. Just let me know and send me the money, and I can hold it for you. :thumbup::beer:
 

fatboy99

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Ill agree on the Hamilton 45000 heater mine has been flawless for over 10 years I got mine at Carter Lumber also. I don't remember what the conversion kit cost Its been too long ago !!
 
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Kevin54

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Just a slight update with a crappy pic (because we like pics) I now have wiring in the garage. It took right at 12 hours to do it. That is adding in outside boxes for lights, running all of the wire from a new sub panel to another sub panel, then the running for the outlets and lighting. He is actually done wiring before the permit has been drawn up.. But he called for the inspection tomorrow, so he's hoping the paperwork is done. I'm into the electrician for $50/hr. and materials, and don't know what the cost of that will be.

After it passes inspection, then I can get it insulated, drywall, then painted. Once it's painted, or at least the ceiling, the electrician will come back and hook everything up as far as the lights and outlets. THEN......I can finally get my tools all put away in the bumpout and get the garage straightened out. :rocker:

Now for the crappy pic of the new panel box and nice and neat wiring.
 

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Kevin54

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No inspection today dammit!!!! If I didn't hear anything by 9:00am, it wasn't going to happen, and I didn't get a call, so hopefully tomorrow. Just as soon as the electric is signed off on, I get the insulation done. I was hoping I would get to call for that today. I guess waiting for another day or so won't kill me.

And on top of that, for some reason the electrician left the 220 off, so I don't have my machines running.. I'll have to call the electrician and see if he can hook it up or see why it's unhooked.
 

theoldwizard1

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Just a slight update with a crappy pic (because we like pics) I now have wiring in the garage. It took right at 12 hours to do it. That is adding in outside boxes for lights, running all of the wire from a new sub panel to another sub panel, ...

Glad to see someone marker the white wires that were used as the second "hot" leg of a 240V circuit. (Reminds me, I should buy a roll of red tape, "just in case I'll be installing any 240V circuits ... NOT !)
 

larry_g

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Looking at your panel wiring, which I assume is a sub-panel, I see that the neutrals and ground are landing on the same buss bars. From learning on here I thought that the neutral had to be isolated from the ground in a sub-panel? You might want to confirm this before the final inspection.

Do a google search with this search string; neutral ground separate site:garagejournal.com

lg
no neat sig line
 
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Kevin54

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Looking at your panel wiring, which I assume is a sub-panel, I see that the neutrals and ground are landing on the same buss bars. From learning on here I thought that the neutral had to be isolated from the ground in a sub-panel? You might want to confirm this before the final inspection.

Do a google search with this search string; neutral ground separate site:garagejournal.com

lg
no neat sig line

Larry......that was changed this morning. The electrician stopped over before the inspector arrived, and added a separate buss bar for the grounds to separate them from the neutrals. :thumbup:
 
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