FuzzyTiger
Well-known member
Really? I got a fancy bidet a few years ago after visiting Japan... Anything else just seems barbaric now.
Keyboard lubricant?
- Thread starter qqzj
- Start date
My son put together his keyboard today. I was going to ask him to give me 10 lubed keys and 10 keys without lube and do a blind test on him. However, after he installed the first two keys and we tried our hands on, I don't think it is necessary anymore. The key that was lubed is obviously a bit quieter. Anyone can tell the difference based on just the sound. I also felt the lubed key is a bit smoother.
He, however, has no interest in doing comparison between different lubes. For that, I probably I have to that myself. But I need to verify a detail. My mechanical keyboards are not hot swappable KBs. Can I still easily take my keys apart and lube them? Thanks.
He, however, has no interest in doing comparison between different lubes. For that, I probably I have to that myself. But I need to verify a detail. My mechanical keyboards are not hot swappable KBs. Can I still easily take my keys apart and lube them? Thanks.
My son put together his keyboard today. I was going to ask him to give me 10 lubed keys and 10 keys without lube and do a blind test on him. However, after he installed the first two keys and we tried our hands on, I don't think it is necessary anymore. The key that was lubed is obviously a bit quieter. Anyone can tell the difference based on just the sound. I also felt the lubed key is a bit smoother.
He, however, has no interest in doing comparison between different lubes. For that, I probably I have to that myself. But I need to verify a detail. My mechanical keyboards are not hot swappable KBs. Can I still easily take my keys apart and lube them? Thanks.
You will have to desolder the switches from the back side of the PCB in order to take them apart on a non hot swappable keyboard. The only method that doesn't require this is using Superlube 51014 and applying it through the top of the switch. Plenty of videos/information on all of these methods.
bbbarracuda
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 1, 2008
- Messages
- 709
Thanks. Searched YouTube and find a few people use 31110. 51014 is kind of hard to find. Are these two lubes interchangeable?
FuzzyTiger
Well-known member
Haha. It looks like you're about to head down a huge rabbit hole here.
What I'd suggest is looking at purchasing an affordable keyboard that has hot swappable switches. I recently purchased a Keychron K4 that has that feature for about $100. They're not the fanciest keyboards around but they are great for the price and will give you the flexibility to experiment to your heart's content.
keyboardlube
New member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2021
- Messages
- 4
I was just about to check up on this!My son put together his keyboard today. I was going to ask him to give me 10 lubed keys and 10 keys without lube and do a blind test on him. However, after he installed the first two keys and we tried our hands on, I don't think it is necessary anymore. The key that was lubed is obviously a bit quieter. Anyone can tell the difference based on just the sound. I also felt the lubed key is a bit smoother.
He, however, has no interest in doing comparison between different lubes. For that, I probably I have to that myself. But I need to verify a detail. My mechanical keyboards are not hot swappable KBs. Can I still easily take my keys apart and lube them? Thanks.
Glad you can immediately notice a difference! With yellows it's usually pretty prominent. They're linear switches so you might not notice a difference using 205g0 vs any other of the lubricants I have sent you.
However, to answer your question regarding hotswap, you may have to desolder the switches from your PCB in order to try out new switches. BUT, there is a super cool (hacky) way that you can make any keyboard you have lying around hotswappable. Get yourself a few hundred 0305 sockets by Mill-max (https://www.digikey.com/en/products...acturing-corp/0305-2-15-80-47-80-10-0/2639493). You'll need two for each switch and cost about $0.20 per socket. Solder those in the holes where the switch leads originally were and viola - you have a hotswappable keyboard that wasn't designed to be as such! If you're going to take it on, I'd recommend having some electronics tweezers handy and also a bit of solder braid. The tolerance between the millmax socket and the hole are very small so any bit of solder within that space won't allow the socket to fall into place.
If you're willing, you can send us your board and we can convert it for you. We generally offer [unadvertised] keyboard building services and we have all the tools needed. You really want a good de-soldering gun and other parts to get it right. Before opening the store, I used to be a builder and I still get the occasional job come through so I still have everything lying around. My queue is pretty light at the moment so I can get it turned around for you in a few days. We used to stock Millmax sockets back when we first opened so I have those on hand as well and they need a good home. If you're interested, feel free to email me at [email protected].
As far as methods to apply, get yourself some #0 brushes. It's what I used back when I had time to lube switches myself. I personally used this set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HPQNF1C/?tag=atomicindus08-20. Apply a super thin layer in the housing where the stem would sit and on the sides of the stem itself. If you're lubing yellows, you can get the lube all over the stem and it would be safe. If you do it on a tactile switch like a brown, avoid the two protruding bumps on the outer part of the stem. Hopefully that makes sense.
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Hi David,
Thanks for so much info. I am totally overwhelmed. I had fun in the past with mechanical keyboard and it is time to pass the baton to the next generation now
BTW, I think mechanical keyboards get lubed by just using them. The Chinese PLU keyboard I use the most fells like it is already been lubed. Maybe that is also a secret?
But since there are a lot of knowledgeable people around here. I do have a question. Back in the day when I was crazy about keyboards, I bought one made by Cherry for cheap. I don't remember how much I paid. But it cannot be more than $35. Today I searched around and it seems that it is sold for more than $120 now. What is going on here? Is the one I have really as good as those $120 keyboards now, or could it be even better? Here are a few pictures. Hope someone can help me understand the value of the keyboard. I think I bought it around 2010. And it is made in Czech Republic (how rare!).
Pictures to follow next.
