Keyed Jacobs chuck on a cordless drill?

[dr_clyde]

Has anyone ever seen a keyed chuck on a cordless drill? I've been thinking of trying to put one on my Makita 18v Li-ion drill. It seems the I can never get the keyless chucks tight enough on bigger bits.

How do the chucks remove from a Makita drill? Anyone ever done this?

 

[Monte]

Which Makita drill do you have ? And which chuck ?

 

[rlitman]

I don't see why not, but I would consider a better keyless chuck first.
Look at the difference between the chucks sold with cordless drills with and without the hammer option. The ones with the hammer option will have a far better chuck, but those better chucks can be bought and installed in any drill if that's what you want.

 

[browntown]

I went the other way on my air drill and replaced the keyed chuck with a chuckless. Anyways for that chuck there was a screw in the center that was loctite'd in and I eventually had to drill out.

Open the chuck to maximum (like you're putting in a 1/2" drill bit) and look down there. If there is a screw head, try to remove it. If it seems permanently stuck in there, it might be loctite'd and is a real bear to remove.

 

[dr_clyde]

Monte, I have the stock chuck on the Makita-BHP452Z-Lithium-Ion-Driver-Drill.

The chuck only seems to slip when it's most inconvienient. I just really like to be able to crank down on the chuck, and I can't do it very well without a chuck key.

 

[Ritter4.0]

I went the other way on my air drill and replaced the keyed chuck with a chuckless. Anyways for that chuck there was a screw in the center that was loctite'd in and I eventually had to drill out.

Open the chuck to maximum (like you're putting in a 1/2" drill bit) and look down there. If there is a screw head, try to remove it. If it seems permanently stuck in there, it might be loctite'd and is a real bear to remove.

So you only have a key now


Just so you know, that screw has left hand threads on it, so make sure you are turning it in the right direction (literally) to loosen it.

 

[NinetyTwoFifty]

Monte, I have the stock chuck on the Makita-BHP452Z-Lithium-Ion-Driver-Drill.

The chuck only seems to slip when it's most inconvienient. I just really like to be able to crank down on the chuck, and I can't do it very well without a chuck key.

I've done what you're talking about. Chucks are usually either 1/2 x 20 or 3/8 x 24 threaded mount.

You need to remove your chuck to find out what size the thread is. Open the chuck all the way and you should see a screw. It is left hand thread, turn clockwise to remove it.

Then take a large hex key and tighten the chuck on the short end. Then you need to whack the hex key and turn spin the chuck off.

 

[4x4gearhead]

I see a cordless drill with a keyed chuck every time I use my snap on 18v drill, I changed out the quick change for a keyed chuck because I was sick of the round shank bits spinning in my chuck towards the end of a thru hole, or when you are pushing really hard on the drill. the easiest way to do it is to take out the screw inside the chuck (usually LH thread) take a good sized allen wrench and clamp it into the chuck (the short side being the side of the allen wrench you clamp) and smack the long side with a deadblow/soft hammer (the chuck itself is usually rh thread). Ive done it a few times like this and have never had a problem with it coming loose, and was happy with my decision to change to a keyed chuck

 

[4x4gearhead]

I've done what you're talking about. Chucks are usually either 1/2 x 20 or 3/8 x 24 threaded mount.

You need to remove your chuck to find out what size the thread is. Open the chuck all the way and you should see a screw. It is left hand thread, turn clockwise to remove it.

Then take a large hex key and tighten the chuck on the short end. Then you need to whack the hex key and turn spin the chuck off.

It seems great minds think alike, I like your style.

 

[G_P]

I had some old cordless drills with keyed chucks. Modern keyless chucks have come a long way but I agree with the people who say they slip on the bit sometimes.

Sometimes those screws holding the chuck on can be a real bear. I have had to use a #3 phillips with vise grips clamped to it to get them out before.

 

[Monte]

Monte, I have the stock chuck on the Makita-BHP452Z-Lithium-Ion-Driver-Drill.

The chuck only seems to slip when it's most inconvienient. I just really like to be able to crank down on the chuck, and I can't do it very well without a chuck key.

So it already comes with a better Jacobs "500 series" chuck which should hold the bit good (theoretical). Since it doesn´t you could upgrade to a Jacobs 700 series chuck with carbide jaws (click)
The carbide jaws prevent slipping of the drill bits.

In Europe the Makita drills (as well as many others like Hitachi) come equipped with Rohm chucks. The Rohm "Extra-RV" are the proper models for your tool. Also available with carbide jaws in the 1/2" version:

metal sleeve:
http://www.roehm.biz/produktuebersi...d=8719&cHash=78a124be2e1f36a101462e1136a4ed29

plastic sleeve:
http://www.roehm.biz/produktuebersi...d=8718&cHash=ee9d81878d8a169e2846cc7ce8e4a5a7

 

[Ign]

I think it's a great idea if you don't mind keeping track of the chuck key. I buy all 1/2" corded drills with a keyed chuck so I can crank down on them. Plus a replacement keyed chuck will be far more affordable.

MSC's Big Book has some useful general info on drill chucks, pg 1686:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=1686

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Monte, I have the stock chuck on the Makita-BHP452Z-Lithium-Ion-Driver-Drill.

The chuck only seems to slip when it's most inconvienient. I just really like to be able to crank down on the chuck, and I can't do it very well without a chuck key.

Hey dr clyde,

Did you ever end up doing this? I have the "Makita BHP454Z 18-Volt LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless 1/2-Inch Hammer Driver-Drill" and EFFEN HATE THAT CHUCK!

link: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EYUQMS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[jjjrmx5]

I went the other way on my air drill and replaced the keyed chuck with a chuckless. Anyways for that chuck there was a screw in the center that was loctite'd in and I eventually had to drill out.

Old thread LOLZ.

You do realize that the screw at the bottom of the chuck internal that holds it in are reverse threaded, right? The one inside of the jaws when open fully at the bottom of the abyss.

Lefty tighty righty loosey.

Screw comes out easy with correct sized screw driver. Then all ya need is an allen wrench and a vice and the drill's power to get the chuck off once full tightened with the screw out and the jaws cranked down.


Easy peasy.
Do it all the time.

Jeebus.

 

[SwampCat]

Put a NICE Jacobs keyless on my Milwaukee i/2" cordless, it hasnt slipped yet.

 

[rlitman]

This may sometimes work, but every time I've tried, the drill didn't have enough power. What I've done, is tighten the chuck onto a torx 60 socket, and give it a few hits with my impact wrench in reverse. That always knocks it loose.

 

[TheGrooveking]

I've done it on a few of my cordless drills, the chuck on my DeWalt 12V Max 3/8" drill is the biggest POS on the planet, once that chuck is replaced it will be introduced to a 30-06 round at my next range day on my property ( I do this a few times a year, things that piss me off meet their end on the range - note, there is a pile of Quadrajet carb pieces there...).

This is my old bought new in 1981 Makita 7.2 V drill, used primarily for countersinking.

TheGrooveking

 

[jjjrmx5]

This may sometimes work, but every time I've tried, the drill didn't have enough power. What I've done, is tighten the chuck onto a torx 60 socket, and give it a few hits with my impact wrench in reverse. That always knocks it loose.

Yowsa.

That's a ROCKIN' idea.

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anytime I gotta break out the MG725 means damn good entertainment.

 

[rlitman]

Any time.

Doing it the "normal" way, there is always the risk of breaking gear teeth under the full torque of the locked motor. With the impact, most of the force goes into releasing the chuck. The gears are left to turn freely with the motor. Just use quick hits on the trigger so you don't force the drill to spin backwards.

 

[dede2897234]

I have owned a Craftsman Professional corded electric drill (6 amp motor) with a 3/8" chuck for about 9 years. About 6 years ago, I replaced the 3/8" chuck with a Jacobs 1/2" chuck. The only hard part about removing the 3/8" chuck is loosening the Phillips #2 screw at the bottom. I tried using various Phillips screwdrivers with a thin shank. The problem was that the Phillips screw at the bottom of the chuck had a thread locker applied to the screw's threads. The various Phillips screwdrivers I tried cammed out from the Phillips screw. The solution for me was using the screwdriver handle, attachable bit shaft, and the Reed & Prince bit that came with the Wadsworth Falls 52 piece mini ratchet set (use item# 307SC344 when looking it up on the "techni-tool.com" website). Another key is to apply valve grinding compound to the bit to prevent it from camming out when removing the chuck screw.

Dave

 

[firebox40dash5]

I put a Rohm Supra on my BHP454. Did it with the hex key and hammer method. Problem is the Supra I used was off a junked Dewalt, and didn't have a lock screw. I think I jacked something up inside the chuck either removing it or getting it tight enough. It doesn't "self tighten" worth squat. No problem breaking gears, though.

I need to swap it for one of the above Rohms. Drives me crazy when it loosens just from releasing the trigger.