Kitchen question (caulking) granite counter, tiled backsplash

[TONE]

Okay, this might seem odd. I wasnt sure what section to put this in put figured this one was the most related.

We recently had granite countertops installed in the kitchen.

We had them made with no backsplash since we knew we wanted to tile that area.

I finished the tiled backsplash up awhile back. Ive done tile before so it wasnt a huge/scary project.

I left a slight space from the bottom of the tile to the granite countertop. Actually used a tile space on its side and rest the tiles on it.

When I was done tiling I then grouted.

I then went back onto the area where I had a gap (area where tiles meet backsplash)

I used a sanded caulk that I bought from the tile shop. Its color matched to the grout.

I also cauked the areas where I had corners and the areas under the cabinets where the tiles met the undersided.

Everything is fine except now im getting hairline cracks in the caulk. Only where the tiles meet the granite.

Im assuming since Im in Chicago and its now 2 degrees outside the house is contracting a bit.

My question is, should I just reapply more caulk over this area?

Should I rip it all up and redo it with a different type of caulk?

I was actually thinking about having small channeling kinda like quarter round made and then powder coating it an oil rubbed bronze finish. This would hide that are no matter how much it cracks.

I went to a few diy forums and people there are morons.

Figured I come home (here) and ask

 

[CraftsmanOnCall]

The solution is certainly between caulk over or recaulking. Don't do anything to hide it. The point of the caulk is to make the area watertight -- you need to know if it needs to be dealt with in the future.

That said, if you are confident that the area was well prepped prior to applying the caulk, i.e. clean and [grout] dust free, caulk over and see if that solves the problem.
It may be that there was a contaminate that prevented good adhesion of the caulk. If you think this is the case, carve it out and redo it.

Also, ensure the the caulk you are using is not water based and has silicone in it – this will bond well and should remain flexible (to a point, of course).

 

[PurdueSD]

In all honesty i haven't ever seen a counter top with no backsplash that didn't develop hairline cracks where it meets a tile backsplash. The expansion rate of the wall with tile is different than the expansion rate of the floor/ cabinets/ counter top. If being water tight is a big enough concern you may want to look into a flexible caulk. They dry and get less flexible over time though. I always like the looks of no backsplash on the counter top better, just not enough that the cracks woulnt bother me. That's why i went with quartz top with backsplash for my own kitchen.

Goodluck!

 

[tstang90]

Im having a similiar problem with my grout in my shower area on the window sill and around the vinyl window Id love to hear the solution to you tile guys out there. The bathroom was recently renovated before I bought it a few months ago and never used till I got in.

 

[tcianci]

If it was a color matched, sanded caulk from the tile store, go back and get a tube of the same color but unsanded, you can apply that right over the existing caulk and work it into the hairline cracks. Like others have said, that joint is subject to movement and may require touching up from time to time.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Google on elastomeric caulk, and see if that might be a possible solution for you. What Tcianci suggested sounds like a possible solution, also.

RJ

 

[ket-tek]

I'm not claiming to be knowledgeable about granite and caulk, but one thing that pops into my mind is the possiblity of the polishing and sealer used on the tops? Like if the sealer is preventing the caulk from adhearing well? Maybe there is a brand of caulking that works better for this application?

In the past i've always stripped all the old caulk off before recaulking anything, I just felt better about getting a good seal with out any buildup, and to get a clean straight one shot bead. I don't know if it's really required but I don't mind doing a little extra work when maintaining my own home.

My tops have had the same issue, it looked like the wall was pulling away a little bit because of settling and temp changes.

 

[Bill K]

Having done tile granite marble and slate fireplace surrounds along with counter tops for the past 10 years you need to use a silicone base caulk between the back splash and countertop. Allows for different expansion rates and biggest it keep water out of the joint.
Dig out the old grout and use a colored silicone caulk

 

[JerseyJim]

My company manufactures construction caulks and sealants. Not the type you are using here... But the rules for selecting and using caulks are pretty much universal. My guess is that at 2 degrees, your heater is running quite a bit and things are drying out and shrinking just a bit and this is opening the gaps.

It's difficult to caulk small gaps like this properly. For large construction gaps, you would first put something called backer rod in the gap. Backer rod is made of resilient foam and has a round profile. It makes caulk applied over it dry with an hour glass profile. This allows the caulk to stretch. The backer rod also provides an area between the two surfaces where the caulk will not be adhered. This is the area that will stretch when the two surfaces move apart. Unfortunately, they don't sell 1/8th in. or 3/16 inch backer rod.

You are better off if your caulk does not fill the gap but instead bridges it. Do not force the caulk into the gap and try to fill it. Apply the caulk with the tip at a fair angle. Apply a bead that conatcts both the horizontal and verticl surface but not into it. This will give you your best shot at allowing some movement.

Folks have mentioned adhesion and the type of caulk being used. Make sure contact surfaces are clean. Since this is not a bathroom, mildew will not be an issue and water exposure should be transient You probably will not find a silicone that matches the color you want. Most tile and counter surface material guys who sell matching color caulks sell siliconized water based (latex) caulks for this purpose. They will work just fine here. Silicone doesn't typically adhere quite as well to surfaces like this and the film it forms is too strong for small joints like this.

Putting a joint here and applying caulk is a smart move. Many contractors who don't know better either provide no joint at all or fill it with grout like the rest of the tile gaps. Grout is too highly filled and simply isn't resilient enough to allow the movement that is bound to happen here.