sberry
Banned
I see in some directions they say silicone, or do you use putty?
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Kitchen sink caulk
- Thread starter sberry
- Start date
rlitman
Well-known member
I see in some directions they say silicone, or do you use putty?
For what part of the sink?
Putty isn't appropriate for the rim, but I find it is best for the faucet stem and drain.
I recently used Lexel on my undermount sink. I'd highly recommend that over silicone.
rlitman
Well-known member
This is a common top mount in a common covered countertop.
So you're talking about what goes between the sink and the countertop? You need something there with adhesive properties. Silicone is fine. When I glue down a sink to the countertop, I'll throw a moving blanket in the sink, and then fill it with a few hundred pounds of belgium blocks until the caulk cures.
rlitman
Well-known member
If the rails rusted away, then water was getting underneath the lip. I'm guessing the countertop rotted, and you replaced that too? That's why you mention cutting the hole?
Anything that allows ANY moisture through this gap will cause big issues, so you want something really good here. Definitely not a place for putty.
If the sink is thin (i.e. flexible), and/or not well bolted down, it can move enough to cause caulk to pull free, and then water will wick through, and your countertop rots. A really adhesive and flexible product here helps with that situation.
Silicone is ok, and works well for a thicker caulk line, if the sink or countertop isn't absolutely perfectly flat. But if the sink is pulling too much on the bond line, or if it is permanently wet, silicone may lose its grip.
Latex based caulks are most certainly not ok here.
Lexel is a good step up, if you want something clear (which should be fine unless you need to hide something), and can get a paper thin caulk line. This wipes clean with a handful of paper towels and mineral spirits.
If you go the marine store, they sell polysulfide caulk products that are much more friendly to work with than polyurethanes. That's another good option, and they come in a handful of boat themed colors.
Anything that allows ANY moisture through this gap will cause big issues, so you want something really good here. Definitely not a place for putty.
If the sink is thin (i.e. flexible), and/or not well bolted down, it can move enough to cause caulk to pull free, and then water will wick through, and your countertop rots. A really adhesive and flexible product here helps with that situation.
Silicone is ok, and works well for a thicker caulk line, if the sink or countertop isn't absolutely perfectly flat. But if the sink is pulling too much on the bond line, or if it is permanently wet, silicone may lose its grip.
Latex based caulks are most certainly not ok here.
Lexel is a good step up, if you want something clear (which should be fine unless you need to hide something), and can get a paper thin caulk line. This wipes clean with a handful of paper towels and mineral spirits.
If you go the marine store, they sell polysulfide caulk products that are much more friendly to work with than polyurethanes. That's another good option, and they come in a handful of boat themed colors.
fsae0607
Well-known member
I used clear kitchen/bath silicone (GE brand from Lowe's) for my kitchen faucet on a stainless sink. Been great for five years now.
My memory was those with a flat spot on the rim got some putty -- those w/o used nothing.
The rim is tightened down and should seal tight w/ some SS with no lip .. CI sinks get putty.
Remember putty was around a long time before the others.
The rim is tightened down and should seal tight w/ some SS with no lip .. CI sinks get putty.
Remember putty was around a long time before the others.