Kitchen Sink Drain Plumbing

[D45]

I am soon going to be removing my old kitchen sink, faucet and disposal and updating these with new pieces

Looking under the kitchen sink, I am wondering about the drain plumbing setup

I have only really ever seen straight runs coming out of the wall going directly into the trap

It looks as if there are two 45 degrees elbows coming out of the wall?

Is this ok or should I gut it all out?

I currently do not have any draining issues, but I also believe it would be a simple fix to remove it all........if need be

 

[Richard Cranium]

it is just fine, who ever installed it could of used a longer tail piece on the sink instead, but that works also, just looks strange.
So If it bothers you change it, if it don't leave it alone. Rich

 

[Higgins]

IMHO, If it works, leave it alone.............. As it looks as if all those fittings are glued together. That would mean your going to have to open the wall and replace either the 90 degree elbo, or the T fitting in the wall. Could become ugly!!

 

[D45]

Well, if I decided to replace it........it appears that I have easy access to where it drains into the basement

I would just cut off the pipe before where the 90 degree elbow turns up into the wall and pull it down

 

[D45]

IMHO, If it works, leave it alone.............. As it looks as if all those fittings are glued together. That would mean your going to have to open the wall and replace either the 90 degree elbo, or the T fitting in the wall. Could become ugly!!

No T fitting, its a straight drop when it enters the wall using a 90 degree elbow

Then another 90 degree fitting in the basement to connect to another run of pipe

 

[no704]

Where does it vent?

 

[D45]

No idea.......should it vent upwards ?

 

[6768rogues]

That horizontal pipe going into the wall typically would connect with a sanitary Tee to a vertical pipe. That pipe would go down to the building drain and up to a vent. As long as your house has at least one full sized vent pipe somewhere, you can get by with an air admittance valve under the sink. Even Lowes has them and most codes now accept them.

 

[66cj225]

Looks like all 'in a line' to me and misaligned. I would shoot to the side and get a 3D alignment with the slip joints. If it looks funny, it usually leaks.

 

[jhelrey]

Are you sure you have water in your trap after draining the sink? Looks like it could siphon.

 

[D45]

I am not sure if water stays in the trap or not

There is definitely a T in the wall, as the black abs pipe continues upward

 

[The Cobbler]

it's not proper. what you have is sort of an S trap and it could siphon the ptrap.
that line should be on plane coming out of the wall, (with a slight slope ) . you can offset on a horizontal plane, not vertically

 

[D45]

So how can it be corrected, now knowing there's a T in the wall

 

[The Cobbler]

just come out of the wall horizontally from the tee to the trap (get rid of the 45's that raise the drain) use a longer tailpiece from the sink basket strainer assy to the trap

 

[AnEv942]

If you had access most I would do is raise the tee in wall if siphoning was an issue. But I cannot see how placement could possibly cause water in trap siphoning out. All I see being accomplished by lowering the P-trap down is decreasing area under sink for items stored.

I did virtually the same thing only I used 90° ells. Raising P-trap to open under sink. Drain flows faster, P-trap actually holds more water.

 

[Fay George]

I had read all the replies and found that most of them replied that you don't need to replace it. But I have a different opinion. Even though you have mentioned that you don't have any draining issues right now, you will find it very difficult to fix the problem in the future.You will find very difficult to fix it. At that time you have to spend money and time for it. I am not telling to replace the whole system. You can call a professional plumber to analyse the system and he can tell you a better advice. I had a similar issue. After the whole renovation of my kitchen, I had faced some drain issue. I sought the help of residential plumbing services in Toronto. Since I had to resolve the drain issue, I find it difficult to do that. If I had checked it at the time of kitchen plumbing, it would not have happened. So, It is better to get an efficient advice.

 

[D45]

just come out of the wall horizontally from the tee to the trap (get rid of the 45's that raise the drain) use a longer tailpiece from the sink basket strainer assy to the trap

So, basically I will have to open up the drywall and cut out the current T?

Or, is there any safe and possible way to remove any of these 45s?

 

[D45]

What about cutting off everything after the flange on the T fitting and using a fernco style hub?

I would be concerned about leaking, compared to having the pvc/abc glued........but using a rubber coupler sounds (in my mind) like a good option......yes or no?

No hub style?
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/nohub.html


trap to drain?
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/trap-adapters.html

 

[mires]

I'm a plumber and I wouldn't bother fixing that in my own house. It will never cause any problems.

 

[AnEv942]

What about cutting off everything after the flange on the T fitting and using a fernco style hub?

I would be concerned about leaking, compared to having the pvc/abc glued........but using a rubber coupler sounds (in my mind) like a good option......yes or no?

No hub style?
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/nohub.html


trap to drain?
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/trap-adapters.html

Why?

 

[D45]

Why what

 

[mygarageone]

I to am a lic plumber , leave it alone . If it’s draining properly , leave it alone.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

If you had access most I would do is raise the tee in wall if siphoning was an issue. But I cannot see how placement could possibly cause water in trap siphoning out. All I see being accomplished by lowering the P-trap down is decreasing area under sink for items stored.

I did virtually the same thing only I used 90° ells. Raising P-trap to open under sink. Drain flows faster, P-trap actually holds more water.

Just FYI, what you did is no longer acceptable by code. The first picture is what you should have...

 

[59 wagon man]

If you had access most I would do is raise the tee in wall if siphoning was an issue. But I cannot see how placement could possibly cause water in trap siphoning out. All I see being accomplished by lowering the P-trap down is decreasing area under sink for items stored.

I did virtually the same thing only I used 90° ells. Raising P-trap to open under sink. Drain flows faster, P-trap actually holds more water.

what you may have been able to do to stay legal according to code in your area was move the trap back to the wall and pivot it to stay along the wall. then using 2 - 1 1/2" tubular waste bends to offset from the flanged tailpiece on the strainer to the trap. you could also use a 1 1/2" flanged tubular elbow to connect directly to the bottom of the sink strainer giving even more clearence

 

[mygarageone]

If you had access most I would do is raise the tee in wall if siphoning was an issue. But I cannot see how placement could possibly cause water in trap siphoning out. All I see being accomplished by lowering the P-trap down is decreasing area under sink for items stored.

I did virtually the same thing only I used 90° ells. Raising P-trap to open under sink. Drain flows faster, P-trap actually holds more water.

and the first thing you did was create an S-Trap , very illegal and wrong , also subject to siphoning.

 

[mygarageone]

All trap connections at the drain have to have the horizontal drain portion the same lever as the trap weir. Code wise. but for years we did exactly was the O.P shows because some times we had to and it was allowed .

 

[D45]

My main concern is lining the draining system up when I install a new sink next weekend

With a traditional horizontal plastic pipe after the trap, it would be easy........but this setup just has me worried

My current sink has center bowl drains and the new sink is 2" deeper and has drains towards the rear of each bowl

 

[D45]

Well, the sink is out and there is definitely still water in the trap, so its not siphoning out

Seems all the connections were covered in clear silicon and putty...…….like the previous installers or homeowners had some leaking issues they couldn't fix?

So when I drop the new sink in, the bowl on the right is directly over the area where the black ABS meets the white PVC

 

[D45]

Suggestions what to do...…...

Should I just cut it and used a Fernco style rubber clamp on hub?

 

[mires]

You're going to need to cut the first street 45 out of the hub sticking out of the wall. Then take a socket saver and drill out the remaining pipe so you can glue in a new piece of pipe and trap adapter. If you need even more space, you can get a male trap adapter that will go right into the hub. If you switch to PVC, make sure to use transition glue.

 

[sixty4]

I would pick up a 1 1/2" tool like this...
https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=102753

Take the fitting out of the abs ty,and buy one of these.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-1-2-in-ABS-DWV-SPG-x-SJ-Trap-Adapter-C580127HD112/100344703

and a can of ABS glue then your done!

 

[D45]

Can I just cut the 45s off, where the T comes out of the wall and use a Trap Adapter?

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/trap-adapters.html

 

[mires]

Can I just cut the 45s off, where the T comes out of the wall and use a Trap Adapter?

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/trap-adapters.html

A gray rubber adapter? No, it won't go over the hub. Now that I look at your first pictures, it looks like the first street 45 is barely glued in. May sound crazy but try wiggling that and see if it will come out of the fitting. You'd be surprised how often that happens lol.

 

[coldh2o]

If you had access most I would do is raise the tee in wall if siphoning was an issue. But I cannot see how placement could possibly cause water in trap siphoning out. All I see being accomplished by lowering the P-trap down is decreasing area under sink for items stored.

I did virtually the same thing only I used 90° ells. Raising P-trap to open under sink. Drain flows faster, P-trap actually holds more water.

Off topic, but do you live in a spaceship?

 

[HoosierMark]

If your not happy with it as is, follow the advice on post 30 and 31. The end result should be a very professional looking job that will work for years. Then you can come straight out of the wall and over to the trap just as typical installs are done day in and day out. Personally I would leave it alone but then I only take care of 40 bathrooms and 35 kitchen sinks so maybe I am a little biased and tired. If you have not had any problems in the past, let it be. If you crack a line in the wall you might create a leak and not find it for years. It works, it drains, it does not cause problems, print this info out, stick it under the sink and when you have a future problem, reread it. I would bet the problem will not be because of this 45 degree set up.

 

[D45]

I would leave it, if I could figure out how to hook up the sink to the drain......the current setup is way too long and it won't line up, no matter how much I adjust the set up

The two 45s brought the drain and trap out way to far.......See post #29