Klutch horizontal saw
- Thread starter FL Guy
- Start date
The only bolt that would have any contact with the saw as it comes down would be this one. But as you can see when the saw is in the full down position there’s still a quarter inch gap
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Augus7us
Well-known member
Post a photo of it closed.
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Augus7us
Well-known member
I really meant a photo of the entire saw closed so we can see if something looks bent or out of whack. Seems like you may be right, its not functioning properly. Using the correct blade size? Metal takes a wider blade than wood.
I have one but different model and I was able to adjust this issue out when I ran into it.
I have one but different model and I was able to adjust this issue out when I ran into it.
Here ya go
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This nut here?
It touches nothing at all when saw is fully down.
In fact, there is about 1/4” gap from bolt head to saw.
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jack stand
Well-known member
Are the top (on the backside of the blade) roller guides adjustable down that last little bit?
LeonardY
Well-known member
This contraption is the biggest POS ever.
This contraption is the biggest POS ever. Sometimes the saw shuts off before it’s done cutting, other times it just doesn’t work. so what I have been doing is I just open the switch cover all the way that way the Saul can be pushed down manually by me for that last 16th of an inch Honestly this is the last of my worries.
I’m not sure what you’re referring to. Can you post a picture and circle what you’re talking about?
LeonardY
Well-known member
So you are saying if you push down on the saw it cuts all the way through? Then this is likely your problem. Either raise the metal piece or lower the switch.
Zeke
Well-known member
I also see the switch being the issue. try to adjust or remove the tang on the saw & see what it does then
Augus7us
Well-known member
I would just remove the bracket circled in another post and shut the saw off manually. Just to see if it cuts all the way through without it.
The piece of metal that’s attached to the saw that pushes down on the switch, I have loosened that and actually removed it to no avail.
The saw probably needs I would say another 3 or 4 pounds of weight hanging off the end of it to make the cuts go through. If I just let the saw go all the way down it will reach a certain point and just not cut any more material unless I put weight on it
The saw probably needs I would say another 3 or 4 pounds of weight hanging off the end of it to make the cuts go through. If I just let the saw go all the way down it will reach a certain point and just not cut any more material unless I put weight on it
look for an adjustment for the spring that balances the head weight
finn
Well-known member
Looks very similar to the Jet I have had for about 15 years. Neither the Jet, or my even older Wilton have the plastic pieces over the switch. Just a simple, old fashioned on / off switch that the saw arm jently contacts when the saw completes the cut.
Pull out the assembly manual and start the adjustments from scratch. One of the stop screws should be set so the blade doesn’t contact the cast based at the end of the cut.
Pull out the assembly manual and start the adjustments from scratch. One of the stop screws should be set so the blade doesn’t contact the cast based at the end of the cut.
jack stand
Well-known member
I don't have that saw, but usually there's 3 roller guides at each side of the opening for the material. One on L/R sides of the band, then another one the (smooth) edge opposite the teeth side to provide the cutting force and prevent these forces from bothering the blades tracking on the wheels.
I'll look for an image but I guess it's possible that you're saw may not have these.
I’ve played with the spring several times. Even made it to where there was no tension on the saw and I’m still having issues with not being able to cut through all the way
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This is with me pushing down on the Saw with probably 10 pounds of weight. There’s still plenty of room between the teeth and cast based.
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jack stand
Well-known member
These show the function and is much better than my description. The parts shown are Milwaukee and from a simple internet search but you should get the idea.
There should be a 1/16 at least of adjustment and you want to push the blade towards the cut.
If it's not your switch "cut off" limiting the stroke there's something else limiting it OR these roller guides were not adjusted at the factory.
So I want to think that I have narrowed it down to this aluminum safety cover over the blade.
It appears that the safety cover is touching the base of the saw when it gets down to the last 1/16” or so on the cut (which explains why I have to push the saw down to over come the thin cover touching the base ) I have tried to bend this thin sheet metal and it’s still not enough to stop it from touching the base.
EDIT….
I removed the safety cover entirely and the saw now performs like it should. When set up to use the automatic stop function on the switch it still stops a little short before the cut is done the motor shuts off.
I cannot move the switch any further down because there are two screws directly below it that are for the ground
There’s obviously a manufactures defect and this will be going back this week.
It appears that the safety cover is touching the base of the saw when it gets down to the last 1/16” or so on the cut (which explains why I have to push the saw down to over come the thin cover touching the base ) I have tried to bend this thin sheet metal and it’s still not enough to stop it from touching the base.
EDIT….
I removed the safety cover entirely and the saw now performs like it should. When set up to use the automatic stop function on the switch it still stops a little short before the cut is done the motor shuts off.
I cannot move the switch any further down because there are two screws directly below it that are for the ground
There’s obviously a manufactures defect and this will be going back this week.
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glad you figured out the problem .
nadogail
Well-known member
If this is your only problem with the saw, maybe you should fix the problem and keep the saw.
i had to fill a coffee can with concrete and an eye bolt just for this reason on mine
I would be inclined to tweak the saw and keep it as well. admittedly, that doesn't help the company realize they need to pay attention to QC tho...
I don’t know what they do or what their called. Hell, i don’t even know wtf 99.99% of the adjustments are for on this saw. The instructions are beyond horrible.Can you adjust these blade guides lower?
I had a few pics on the stand assembly and how to attach the saw to the stand and that’s it.
Well, they look like they run in a tongue and grove. Loosening the nut and bolt and push the parts with the guide rollers down a bit, 1/8" might do it.
LeonardY
Well-known member
Glad you found it.
I wished I had popped back in earlier. I spotted it in this picture.
Is there any adjustment to the cover? another words does it fit snugly to the casting or is it hanging off.
You might be able adjust the angle of the saw to get the cover to clear.
The bolts at this location can be loosened and the saw can be moved down slightly. It may not take much.
These bolts.
But on the other hand you shouldn't have to go through this much with a new tool.
Will they just swap it for a new one?
I wished I had popped back in earlier. I spotted it in this picture.
Is there any adjustment to the cover? another words does it fit snugly to the casting or is it hanging off.
You might be able adjust the angle of the saw to get the cover to clear.
The bolts at this location can be loosened and the saw can be moved down slightly. It may not take much.
These bolts.
But on the other hand you shouldn't have to go through this much with a new tool.
Will they just swap it for a new one?
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CraigStu
Well-known member
Guys, these are pretty dang good saws for the money. I just did a quick search and any other similar saw is at least $150 more. Some are double the price. I had one that looked identical for 30+ years before the casting that holds the lower roller bearings and the small table used in the vertical position disintegrated. I probably should have spent more time finding a replacement but wanted to upgrade so I did. He11, I would probably have stuck a 3/8 thick wood spacer under the metal I needed to cut through before I found the cover interference. Needing to beat a little clearance into a sheet metal cover is not a deal breaker especially to save at least $150.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
I had the HF version, they're actually a good saw for the price point, like all the lower end import stuff it needs to be tweeked. Once you get it dialed in I think you will be happy with it, it's a simple easy to use saw, just stand back a minute & look at the issue, it might be a simple fix.
alfadan
Well-known member
On my HF saw, sometimes the the guide bearing on the left on the extendable guide rubs the movable jaw if the stock you're cutting is a little on the bigger side. The cutting stops as the bearing slowly tries to "cut" through the jaw haha.