Knipex vs NWS?
- Thread starter bcradio
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The street price over here is around €65.- to € 85.- depending on the type of crimper. In the US they´re a tad more expensive unfortunately...:
shoturtle
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It depends on what your are looking for. NWS does not have as many options for certain pliers, especially in the US.
vintagefan
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They're a good compromise if you only want to carry one tool, but IMO the Knipex mini bolt cutters will hold up better to long term use because of the cutting edge shape, and the joint design.
As far as the OP goes (even though this is an old thread), I read a couple people saying that the NWS finish is "better" than Knipex.
How, exactly? I don't feel that way at all.
Knipex has one of the best raw forged finishes I've ever seen on a tool, period.
They also pay some serious attention to detail in some areas, such as the micro-bevel they put on the edges of their needlenose and some other pliers.
Most of the NWS pliers I handled had rather average finishing on the jaws, especially the combination pliers. The Knipex have ultra precise fine-cut teeth with edge-breaks, whereas the NWS have rougher cut, clunkier teeth with raw edges that have nicks and dings on them.
I got a set of Fantasticos with an extremely loose joint, to the point where I could make it rattle, and they would make a popping sound when you sqeezed them.
I tried the Quattrogrip vs. the Cobra, and the teeth weren't as precisely cut nor as sharp, so the Knipex grabbed harder with less effort.
NWS makes some very nice tools, but IMO they are on par with Knipex, at best.
Sparkfarmer
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Vintagefan, I agree about the finish completely.
I recently got my first two NWS products, 10" quattrogrips, and chrome fantasticos.
Chrome Finish:
The finish on the fantasticos is not even close to the quality of chrome on my plier wrench's.
The Knipex chrome seems much thicker but still much tougher. The plier wrench's have been abused pretty good for maybe 2 years and the jaw surfaces are still pristine. Whereas the fantasticos have only cut about 20 times and there is some minor chrome peeling from the blades.
I think I will be leaning towards Knipex in the future.
(please don't get me wrong here, I do love the fantasticos and am extremely happy with them)
I recently got my first two NWS products, 10" quattrogrips, and chrome fantasticos.
Chrome Finish:
The finish on the fantasticos is not even close to the quality of chrome on my plier wrench's.
The Knipex chrome seems much thicker but still much tougher. The plier wrench's have been abused pretty good for maybe 2 years and the jaw surfaces are still pristine. Whereas the fantasticos have only cut about 20 times and there is some minor chrome peeling from the blades.
I think I will be leaning towards Knipex in the future.
(please don't get me wrong here, I do love the fantasticos and am extremely happy with them)
The mini bolt cutters are one of my favorite tools. Super easy to chop through just about anything.
And I'll third the responses about the finish between Knipex and NWS. I have some NWS electronics pliers, and while they are very well designed and work fantastic, they just aren't as finely detailed as my Knipex stuff. The NWS chrome just doesn't impress me, and I think they left some of the surfaces a bit rough before plating. The Knipex finish is substantially better.
And I'll third the responses about the finish between Knipex and NWS. I have some NWS electronics pliers, and while they are very well designed and work fantastic, they just aren't as finely detailed as my Knipex stuff. The NWS chrome just doesn't impress me, and I think they left some of the surfaces a bit rough before plating. The Knipex finish is substantially better.
gustsant
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I agree with everything but just want to add that some knipex pliers have some seriously jagged edges that will rip through skin like butter
shoturtle
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All the germany pliers are very close, it comes down to what you are looking for. The NWS form handling them are very good for brute work. The Knipex is more refine. But if you want VDE, the Wiha are the way to go with their finishing chrome. Much nicer then the other 2 in that department. But their regulars stuff a little behind knipex. So each has their place. And depending on your preference, take your pick. Knipex, NWS, and Wiha.
cbracer
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Tronex for small electrical stuff, about $60 each. Wiha ESD chrome is also very nice if you want to spend only half as much. I tried the expensive CK and found their cutters had QC problems but the pliers were nice. Between NWS and Knipex I would choose Knipex. But if I didn't have to choose those then Wiha, Tronex.
Different pliers for different tasks.
The Knipex bolt cutters are not made for cutting electronic cables for example and the NWS not for thicker metal.
Titanium Steel
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From personal experience, I can vouch for Wiha's VDE and their finishing chrome. I've put a great deal of work with my CAT IV insulated needle nose VDE/EN tested product not even once have these let me down or caused any issues.
I keep my pliers in the bag that Wiha sent though and put a Craftsman Plier cover on them as well though. Here is a link to Sears page for information on these, as well as image.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-plier-covers-5-pc-set/p-00945446000P
Sears Item# 00945446000 | Model# 45446 and right now they are on sale for a $1.69 for a pack of ten.
Here is a better image of one of them.
They are made in USA, but aren't guaranteed forever though.
cbracer
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The Tronex cutters include those covers with them.
Titanium Steel
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Cbracer: I've never heard of the brand Tronex, so I didn't know. I should note that these plier covers work exceptionally well though and despite the review of this on Sears, these do not tear easily, as long as you being moderately careful.
I've use them for my Channelock, Wiha, Craftsman and even Xuron brand tools as well.
I've use them for my Channelock, Wiha, Craftsman and even Xuron brand tools as well.
cbracer
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I suppose you could make your own with some plasti-dip......
vintagefan
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Agreed.
The Fantastico are an excellent compromise if you can only bring one tool with you, for instance cutters in one pants pocket and pliers in the other.
The edge geometry on the Fantastico make them well suited for any task that traditional diagonal cutters are used for, while the CoBolt have a much more heavy duty edge geometry and joint design that is intended for repeated heavy cuts.
The Fantastico can withstand similar occasional use for the same tasks as the CoBolt, but only in an emergency, not for long term use.
The CoBolt are rated higher for cutting hard wire, at 3.6mm instead of 3mm for the Fantastico.
Honestly, I would be rather afraid to cut 3mm piano wire with the Fantastico except in a pinch. They have the leverage for it, but the main swivel joint is not designed with the strength that the CoBolt's compound joint is. The CoBolt joint is a very robust bolt-cutter style joint, where the Fantastico use a traditional joint used in other pliers.
If you made repeated heavy cuts with the Fantastico, you would risk putting premature wear on the joint, and end up with a rather loose set of cutters that may not function like they should.
The Fantastico are still arguably the best diagonal cutter on the market, because they make cutting so much easier. They replace a traditional diagonal cutter, whereas the CoBolt are meant for an entirely different task.
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Titanium Steel
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Cbracer: I actually own a can of clear Plasti Dip, but Plasti Dip (clear) is not exactly easy to find and there was only two places where I could buy this, Ace Hardware and Amazon. This is not a short story, so long story short, I bought this at Amazon.
Home Depot does sell red and now black plasti dip, but not only the can was small, but I am not sure if the can was plastic or mead, as the lid was plastic.
Now I only use plasti dip outside, but I am so sure I want a plasti container for material that rightfully so, is not exactly something you want to be dealing with in a enclosed area.
I've seen some changes with Plasti Dip recently (positive ones) so I think all the cans are made out of metal, so our the lids though.
I've actually used plasti dip on these $1.50 wire cutters I bought and man , what a difference. Not only can I use them with much more ease, the cutters even look nicer to.
Here is a link to where I ended up buying my clear Plasti Dip. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027JGVMS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I also really like fact Plasti Dip is made in USA and does come in different colors as well.
I actually found a youtube video of how to make a Plasti Dip cover/guard.
Home Depot does sell red and now black plasti dip, but not only the can was small, but I am not sure if the can was plastic or mead, as the lid was plastic.
Now I only use plasti dip outside, but I am so sure I want a plasti container for material that rightfully so, is not exactly something you want to be dealing with in a enclosed area.
I've seen some changes with Plasti Dip recently (positive ones) so I think all the cans are made out of metal, so our the lids though.
I've actually used plasti dip on these $1.50 wire cutters I bought and man , what a difference. Not only can I use them with much more ease, the cutters even look nicer to.
Here is a link to where I ended up buying my clear Plasti Dip. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027JGVMS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I also really like fact Plasti Dip is made in USA and does come in different colors as well.
I actually found a youtube video of how to make a Plasti Dip cover/guard.
vintagefan
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A good tip I've found is if you use a thinner such as Xylene to thin out the plasti-dip, you can apply several thinner coats instead of one or two thick ones. I find that it makes for a more even coating, and stronger because it is in layers.
What I like to do is to put my layers on, then once it has almost dried, go around the thinner area at the top with a sharp knife, and trim it so that it stops where the thickness is uniform.
Then soak a small lint free cloth in the thinner, and use it to soften the edge you just cut. After that, you can also give it a very fast dip in the thinner to make the finish uniform and further round the top edge.
That method gets the closest I've been able to come to factory applied grips.
Titanium Steel
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Vintagefan: Wow, neat tip. Can't say I have any thinner laying around, but that really is quite a interesting means of achieving a factory grip.
Is Xylene more or less the best type of thinner, as I've used other thinners in the past and have had mixed results.
I have several clothes laying about, but will any do or do you recommend a certain brand?
Thank you for the tip though. Really detailed and actually really easy to understand.
Is Xylene more or less the best type of thinner, as I've used other thinners in the past and have had mixed results.
I have several clothes laying about, but will any do or do you recommend a certain brand?
Thank you for the tip though. Really detailed and actually really easy to understand.
vintagefan
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The Plast-dip uses some less common thinners, they actually say on the can that you can use standard paint thinner, but they also recommend Xylene or Tolulene. I find that adding standard Paint thinner and/or Tolulene can tend to make the grips come out a bit greasy feeling (paint thinner being the worst), the Xylene seems to evaporate more completely.
FYI Tolulene and Xylene are both rather nasty, not to the point where you shouldn't use them, but that is definitely an outside thing, and a wear gloves thing.
You should be able to find Xylene (or Tolulene) in a small can in the paint section at Home Depot or Lowes.
cbracer
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Probably Xylene, and straight Tolulene is really nasty stuff for you and surely not sold in California at HD or Lowes.
Titanium Steel
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Went to both Home Depot and Lowes and I couldn't find Xylene and that is probably for the better though. These sound like really bad chemicals and while I am possession of a NIOSH rated respirator, I am fine with just straight Plasti Dip.
vintagefan
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You can buy them in small containers in the paint section. I'm in CA and I've found them in a couple stores. They don't exactly make them easy to find though, and you never find them in anything larger than a small tin.
edit: To Titanium Steel, it's not bad enough where it's going to harm you if using outside and with gloves. It's just not something you want to splash on a rag with bare hands and use to wipe magic marker off your workbench, that's all.
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Titanium Steel
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Vintagefan: Well doesn't sound that bad, but yeah I tend to shy away from chemicals like that unless I really have to. Thanks for your help though. I have NIOSH rated safety goggles, ear plugs and a respirator, but for something such as this, I'd probably need to buy either some NIOSH rated gloves.