Knives & blacksmithing and more

[vintage nut]

The drilling is to try and get the ballance right. I'm not that scientific about it, but basically the more blade there is in relation to handle, the less I remove from the handle. For example on this bowie I only drilled holes for the handle pins. There are exceptions to this though, such as when I intentionally want it not to ballance at the front of the handle (machete chopping sort of knife for example)
And I'm not sure that bowie is quite that big, but it's definitely not a small one! The blade is just over 2" wide, just over 7" long, and 1/4" thick.
Haven't done one quiet like this before! I actually brazed a bolt into a slot in the end of the handle, and it will have a heavy brass end cap screwed on.
Lot's of milling machine work on this one

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[Junebuggy]

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[Junebuggy]

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[drivesitfar]

JB: you put together scraps better than most people do with new stock. did you say what you use to weld your steel?

awesome knives again and amazing at the quality your turn out.

VN: thanks for sharing and how are knives looking with their handles?

 

[vintage nut]

Here's a little peek of it. Cocobolo handle. This is right after milling the **** cap to size. The epoxy is currently curing on it. I'll probably have it finished to post pictures today or tomorrow.

 

[vintage nut]

Still need to grind the cap to shape, do a final sanding on the wood, and polish up all the brass.

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[Junebuggy]

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[vintage nut]

I really like that pumpkin!
I might have to make one of those for Halloween this year. Thinking I might weld a little plate in the bottom of it, so you can sit a candle in there.
Junebuggy, have you found any good projects for rr spikes? I've got a whole bucket of them... A bit soft for knives, but I was thinking of something like splitting one down the middle, and forge welding a piece of O1 in. The look of a rr spike knife, but a very good edge, plus it would have the added cool factor of being a laminated blade.
Or maybe try out a rr spike hawk, with a laminated cutting edge.

Currently all I'm using them for is something to put in the kiln with oil hardening steels, to toss in the oil to pre heat it before quenching blades

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[nine4gmc]

Junebuggy, AWESOME!

Vintage, can't wait to see what you finish with!

 

[Junebuggy]

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[vintage nut]

Very nice!

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[vintage nut]

Here's a parang I'm working on. 8.75" blade, full flat grind, 1/4" O1. The handle is bolivian rosewood.
I'll get some pictures of my latest finished work at some point over the weekend.


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[drivesitfar]

JB: I really like the RR spike turned into a garden shovel and if you ever do one again and want to show us a video of how you did that would be awesome too.

is you Miller 252 a 220 volt machine only? i'm thinking of buying a Miller 211, but since i don't weld yet i'm not positive it will be the one. any tips or help you want to share for us that want to be welders or blacksmiths are always appreciated.

Vintage: nice looking knife.

 

[Junebuggy]

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[Junebuggy]

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[vintage nut]

Thanks man! The means a lot coming from someone of your talent!
I picked up a bunch of exotic woods in the last few days. A good sized plank of Macassar ebony, and decent sized chunk of Nigerian ebony, a plank of lacewood, some of this rosewood, and some more katalox. Coming from more of a cabinet making background, I'm a real fan of obscure and exotic woods.

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[drivesitfar]

JB: thanks for the 411. in case you are venturing up my direction again my wife and i just returned from Port Townsend and we found some awesome places to eat if you like great food. PM me if you want names of a few of the places in PT or Sequim.

hope you are feeling better.

Vintage: keep learning and teaching us because you are doing great.

 

[vintage nut]

Bit of an injury today.... Driving out a handle pin to remove a knife handle, and the snapon pin punch I was using snapped.... The broken part went right to the bone on my left middle finger..... Be interesting to see if they only replace the punch, or add something as compensation. Snapon has always inpressed me, so I wouldn't be surprised either way.
I've also gained access to a power hammer, so I might have to try doing some Damascus soon.

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[drivesitfar]

Vintage: i hope you are ok. have you had your tetnus shot? ouch and hope you recover soon.

JB: speaking of health you doing ok? any new projects to post a few pics of?

 

[vintage nut]

I should be alright. I disinfected it real well before bandaging it up. I have had my tetanus shot, but now that you mention it I should probably make sure it's up to date....

I've just about finished off another batch of knives, so I'll have to get some pictures of them

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[Voi]

Listen for the ring when shopping for one...simply free swing a ball peen hammer down on the deck and watch the bounce and listen....if it doesn't bounce or make a good "ping"....it's a door stop.

Does one still check for bounce on the "city anvils" like those from Fisher?

I found a Fisher 6 for sale today and the guy is very firm at $160 or $2.66 per pound.

I'm trying to research as much as I can but as I understand it these are cast anvils with a "welded" forged top plate and they are a lot quieter so they won't ring like a regular anvil. So should I still check for bounce?

Or just move on and wait for a larger anvil? My 7 year old son wants to make a knife "the old way" and I'm interested in trying it as well.

Here are pictures.

 

[vintage nut]

I'd still check for rebound. And although I'm no expert on forging (primarily a stock removal guy, and my other blacksmithing experience is limited) I can't say I've ever heard of anvils with the welded on top part not ringing. I know the peter wright right outside the shop rings, and it has a forge welded steel top plate.
The reason you check if it rings is that if it's cracked, it will sound dead. It's the same idea as ringing grinding stones.

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[nine4gmc]

I read that one that's been through a barn fire will also sound dead but

 

[Seppala]

Does one still check for bounce on the "city anvils" like those from Fisher?

I found a Fisher 6 for sale today and the guy is very firm at $160 or $2.66 per pound.

I'm trying to research as much as I can but as I understand it these are cast anvils with a "welded" forged top plate and they are a lot quieter so they won't ring like a regular anvil. So should I still check for bounce?

Fisher is a fine anvil. It won't ring likes forged wrought iron body anvil with a welded steel face and that might be perfect for your needs. My 100lb. Fisher bounces a hammer face well enough. The face of a Fisher anvil is quite hard.

 

[Voi]

Fisher is a fine anvil. It won't ring likes forged wrought iron body anvil with a welded steel face and that might be perfect for your needs. My 100lb. Fisher bounces a hammer face well enough. The face of a Fisher anvil is quite hard.

Thanks. Think it's worth the $160 (for 60 lbs.) or better off waiting for something better? I do have a ~12" chunk of railroad track I could use.

I don't mind paying near the high end of market value and the $160 wouldn't prevent me from buying a larger anvil if one popped up.

 

[Seppala]

Thanks. Think it's worth the $160 (for 60 lbs.) or better off waiting for something better? I do have a ~12" chunk of railroad track I could use.

I don't mind paying near the high end of market value and the $160 wouldn't prevent me from buying a larger anvil if one popped up.

Old anvils in good shape are becoming harder to get. From the pictures you presented the face looks flat and the edges are sharp. IMO I would buy the anvil.

 

[vintage nut]

I'd buy it
And I have a 142# forged wrought body peter wright in front of the shop.

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[Craptain]

I read that one that's been through a barn fire will also sound dead but

Right. The heat basically anneals it.

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[drivesitfar]

Nines: i've posted that a few times for those that didn't know a fire could damage a good anvil or you could have googled it, but great memory and tip to share.

Voi: take a square with you to check the top and if pretty flat I'd buy it if it has a rebound. do you have a 3/4 or inch steel ball or take a nice ball peen hammer to check rebound. tapping a hammer or dropping a steel ball from about 10 inches to see if it bounces back almost the 10 inches will tell you if you have a good or great anvil. anything over 6 inches is good and close to 10 is great.

small anvils like huge anvils (or any anvils for that matter) don't really go off a per pound price and some brands are more valuable than others, but having a good anvil for some hot metal forming is a great tool. also get a big stump like Nines and others have so it has a great place to sit and relax until you need it.

 

[nine4gmc]

Just picked up some fire brick for a forge, this is almost half the pile, I got some for Merc so we can both build one.

 

[rmalkow2]

Cool, take picks and show the process please. I think I'm not alone is wanting to learn how to make one.

 

[930dreamer]

This knife maker is in the building next to me;

http://ianvanreenenknives.com/Welcome.html

 

[MercLSU]

Just picked up some fire brick for a forge, this is almost half the pile, I got some for Merc so we can both build one.

Sweet! This ol' girl needs some new brick in it:

 

[Craptain]

I thought you might enjoy this. It is in German but the pictures tell the story. Interesting set up and use of tools but wonderful craft.

 

[drivesitfar]

Junebuggy: how's the health and anything cooking in the garage now that temps are below 100 degrees?

hope all is well in your world.

Cheers

 

[nine4gmc]

What is the minimum gauge steel would you guys say would be needed for the case of a forge built with fire bricks inside?

 

[rmalkow2]

Hmmmmm… just a random thought from somewhere but, I wonder it you could use the same thickness steel that they use for ATM machines?

 

[nine4gmc]

Good observation. That's the reason I asked, not the 1/2" plate but the top part that the computer/controls are mounted in. It's 10-12 ga I think.


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[rmalkow2]

No that's not what I expected. I was thinking the 1/2' stuff was the ticket to last a long time given how much heat it will contain. I guess the bricks do the big job of insulating and containing the heat in the forge area.

 

[nine4gmc]

The only problem with the 1/2", it's stupid heavy. Seriously, the empty carcass without door is over 400 lbs by itself and would take most of it to make the box I want to build. Once you add pipes and bricks and legs etc, it would easily be around. 500 lbs or more. Most of the forges I've seen look like they were around. 1/8" or so. The top housing is roughly that thick, I'd have to measure to know exact.


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