Emaisch1080
Member
Does anyone have any info or pics of t&g pine on there Garage walls. Does it have to. R sealed or finished? Can I leave in natural?
Knotty pine t&g
- Thread starter Emaisch1080
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Angelfire
Well-known member
I just put up T&G in my woodworking shop. Not necessarily "knotty" per se but certainly not clear either. Mine is spruce. I can try to get some pictures later this week. I haven't finished with trim etc.....as I'm going to do my floor first but it'll give you an idea of what it looks like. I did go ahead and seal just to keep it a bit cleaner. Unfinished, it will tend to collect dust, stains, cobwebs, etc.... I know I'll still get some of that anyway, but a bit less with sealing. Makes it easier to get the dust off. Depending on the sealer, you can use something with UV inhibitors to slow down the yellowing of the pine as well.
It will be a headache due to the cleaning requirement, as AF has said. The bevel edge looks nice when new clean and finished, but it quickly takes on the dirty shadow line. If you go that way, I would sand it to about 120 grit and pre-finish it. It will clean up a lot easier if you do so. When I do this type of pre-finish I’ll lay out a couple 2x4’sor 6’s and pound a 16d nail in about every three to four inches. As you finish a board carry it down and set it tongue first into the slots. You can handle a lot of wood that way.
OP
Emaisch1080
Member
What did you seal it with? Did you use a plastic vapor barrier behind it?
I have several places around my buildings where I used T & G knotty pine or western red cedar or cedar. Love it, easy to install and really no maintenance needed.
All of mine came with a rough side and a smooth side. You can choose. For indoor walls or ceilings, I recommend the smooth side out, as the rough side collects dust, dog hair, junk blown around by wind. And in a shop or garage, spider webs. Can be difficult to clean.
I did not treat my indoor panelling. On the outside of the house, it is sided with cedar with the rough-side out. That outdoor wood I treated with a linseed oil-paint thinner mix. After 35 years, looks great, and I've never done any cleaning or re-treatment since installation.
All of mine came with a rough side and a smooth side. You can choose. For indoor walls or ceilings, I recommend the smooth side out, as the rough side collects dust, dog hair, junk blown around by wind. And in a shop or garage, spider webs. Can be difficult to clean.
I did not treat my indoor panelling. On the outside of the house, it is sided with cedar with the rough-side out. That outdoor wood I treated with a linseed oil-paint thinner mix. After 35 years, looks great, and I've never done any cleaning or re-treatment since installation.
ky-mike
Well-known member
Do you have a source for your pine? I purchased wood for my ceiling from http://www.woodworkersshoppe.com/ good prices and very good quality product.
James-W
Well-known member
Several years ago a young woman I worked with wanted to finish off her basement. She wanted tongue and groove pine, it wasn't called knotty pine but that's is sort of what it was. Anyway, we cut all the pieces, then she put a light stain and three coats of polyurethane on each piece before we installed it on the walls. It looked really nice when we were finished.
PS - She also makes great lasagna.
PS - She also makes great lasagna.
four.cycle
Well-known member
Angelfire said:
^ and every greasy oily fingerprint that touches it.
I installed rough, random width, scrounged pine boards on my garage walls about twenty years back. I built the 2 X 4 studs out with 2 X 2's to give it extra depth for F'glas insulation bats and yes I did add a vapour barrier. It was left unfinished...no problem as there is no dirty work done next to it.
We re-did our basement with T&G pine a while back and it was finished with two coats of semi gloss Varathane.
We re-did our basement with T&G pine a while back and it was finished with two coats of semi gloss Varathane.
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Angelfire
Well-known member
Assuming this question was for me so no I did not install a plastic vapor barrier under it. Instead I went with a variable vapor retarder (Membrain brand name). Finished the wood with polyurethane (although I hate the stuff, it made sense for this application).
Cheers.
Angelfire
Well-known member
Hopefully not too many of those in a wood working shop! But yes, anything gets on unfinished walls will probably stay there.
j p smith
Well-known member
rburke65
Well-known member
Put it up....ya don't HAVE to seal it.
banjopete
Well-known member
We just did this on a drop portion of our basement ceiling. It's "select tight knot" 1x6 T&G pine, I think it looks great, but it's much more expensive than the drywall we did everywhere else.
The design team (my wife) didn't care and instructed the labour team (me) to make it so, easy to do, and pretty tidy.
The design team (my wife) didn't care and instructed the labour team (me) to make it so, easy to do, and pretty tidy.
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OP
Emaisch1080
Member
We just did this on a drop portion of our basement ceiling. It's "select tight knot" 1x6 T&G pine, I think it looks great, but it's much more expensive than the drywall we did everywhere else.
The design team (my wife) didn't care and instructed the labour team (me) to make it so, easy to do, and pretty tidy.
It’s probably the same stuff. I call it knotty pine cause it has knots in it. It is more expensive. About $260 a wall. 8h’x20’L. I just wanna spruce it up. Trying to decide if I should put electric in the the wall or emt conduit. Conduit might be a cool look
look at my garage build thread here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291161
some discussion on pine T&G put it on ceiling
some discussion on pine T&G put it on ceiling
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
Any oil/petroleum product will just absorb into untreated pine.
finn
Well-known member
I had the white cedar trees that I had to clear when we built the cottage (now house) milled into lumber at a small local sawmill, and had the local sheltered workshop t&g the boards. Installed them on the cathedral ceiling over a vapor barrier.
Satin poly cut 50% with mineral spirits and it still looks good after25 years.
I had 500 bf of white birch done a couple of years ago. Cost more because the sheltered workshop got out of the t&g business. Will probably put it on the basement tv room ceiling.
Satin poly cut 50% with mineral spirits and it still looks good after25 years.
I had 500 bf of white birch done a couple of years ago. Cost more because the sheltered workshop got out of the t&g business. Will probably put it on the basement tv room ceiling.
TTTTTT
Well-known member
I have done lots of t & g pine mostly 1x10s. I like to put it horizontal. Kinda gives a log look. If you're in a colder climate, definitely have to have 6 mil vapour barrier covering your insulation then the pine on the studs. I use water-based Varathane by Flecto. The easiest and best finish. Totally non yellowing, water cleanup and fast drying tough finish. Can do it in satin,semi or high gloss. I do 2 coats on pine walls. If you want a very smooth finish like furniture, sand between with 400-600 sand paper and recoat. 
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TTTTTT
Well-known member
Forgot to add I coat it before putting it up do your done right after its up.
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ForceFed70
Well-known member
Put some T&G pine (tho "knotty" part is just marketing) up recently in my cabin.
Not a product I'd use in my workshop tho.
- expensive
- grooves collect dirt/dust
- MUST be sealed or it'll stain badly even with just mud/dirty water.
- Pine is a soft wood and easily marked/dented.
It does look great tho, and i'd certainly recommend it for interior household finishing if you want that look.
Not a product I'd use in my workshop tho.
- expensive
- grooves collect dirt/dust
- MUST be sealed or it'll stain badly even with just mud/dirty water.
- Pine is a soft wood and easily marked/dented.
It does look great tho, and i'd certainly recommend it for interior household finishing if you want that look.
Outlander
Well-known member
My entire cottage is T&G pine, finished. My house basement has nice wide knotty pine walls, unfinished, since the 50's.
pigag2
Member
I really like this look. I will be finishing the interior of my 26X40 woodshop next summer and was think of going the same way. I am also from around the GTA and was wondering where you found your 1X10's?
Pierre
Pierre
TTTTTT
Well-known member
I get mine from a mill in Madoc, hwy 62 and hwy 7. Not sure if they wood haha.....deliver. I trailer mine to my cottage about 40 kms north on 62.
http://www.wilsonforestproducts.ca
I'm about to get about 1,000 sq' of red pine 8" flooring for the loft part of the garage. Can't wait to install that.
I love the pine in my wood shop. Really warms up the atmosphere.
Dave
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I'll have to partly take back my comment about unfinished wood fading. I remembered going to Pres Franklin Roosevelt' summer White House in Warm Springs, GA a few years ago. Roosevelt had polio as an adult and was wheel chair bound. With assistance he could stand with crutches. The news media was even more in love with him than other politicians of his party in the 20th Century and did not take many pictures of Roosevelt on crutches. At Warm Springs there are springs that are warm, pleasantly warm not hot, and before Roosevelt made the place famous there was a sanatorium there for victims of polio. There was a large swimming pool there and other treatment rooms. On display they have one of the "iron lungs" which helped patients breathe. Roosevelt built a home there of the faux rustic design. It has several rooms which are lined with pine, which has some knots but is generally high grade lumber AIRC. The wood is unfinished. The colors are only slightly faded. The house has to be at least 80 years old.
Politicians in the automobile age liked tor ride around in open cars so people could get a better look at them. This habit ended after Kennedy was murdered while riding in a 4 door Lincoln convertible. Roosevelt had a 39, I think, Ford 4 door convertible modified so he could drive it. It is on display there with other Roosevelt items. It has mechanical linkages for steering, brakes, clutch, and transmission. 4 door Ford convertibles were avaiiable in the 30s. There was an attempted murder of a pope in the 80s or 90s AIRC but the popes want to be seen by the people even more than politicians and they had the "Popemobile" designed and built which has a clear bubble of bullet proof glass that the pope stands in.
KEH
Politicians in the automobile age liked tor ride around in open cars so people could get a better look at them. This habit ended after Kennedy was murdered while riding in a 4 door Lincoln convertible. Roosevelt had a 39, I think, Ford 4 door convertible modified so he could drive it. It is on display there with other Roosevelt items. It has mechanical linkages for steering, brakes, clutch, and transmission. 4 door Ford convertibles were avaiiable in the 30s. There was an attempted murder of a pope in the 80s or 90s AIRC but the popes want to be seen by the people even more than politicians and they had the "Popemobile" designed and built which has a clear bubble of bullet proof glass that the pope stands in.
KEH