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Ko-Ken Interchangeable Nut-Grip Nut Driver 167C

ChevyEFI

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I want magnetic or nut-grip options to avoid dropping a taillight nut into a quarter panel.

Narrowing things down, I want 1/4 dr. and at least semi-deep to clear studs. 3" long power shank bit nut-grip and magnetic are too short in an imp. driver. (but I could use a power bit extension suggestion since every extension is usually for reg. bits)

Since I tend to buzz things out with an impact driver, the shank/socket of the 167C Ko-Ken stuff looks pretty ideal, for 7, 8, 10, and 12mm at least.

Does that shank work in a regular impact driver with minimal modification?
Thanks.

(I have included in my wasteful use of time thinking about this: magnetic nut drivers, semi- & deep nut-grip sockets combined w/locking extensions, sliding magnet Ko-Ken 115G drivers and for now, wanna go nut-grip.)
 

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Tools4Me

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It looks to me like the Koken power drive shanks that come with that drive handle are "Japanese style", where the dimension from the end of the shank to the machined indented ring is longer than it is for standard power bits sold in the US. I don't know if Koken has a US spec power bit version of that driver or not. Some of their tools come in both configurations. If they only come in Japan spec, each power drive shank can be hand ground a little shorter so it will lock properly into US style female power drive adapters and tools. I've done that multiple times in the past, and everything worked fine.

Personally, I greatly prefer magnetic sockets for anything 1/4" drive, and Koken nut grip most of the time when using 3/8" drive. I tried nut grip for small 1/4" drive sockets and they often didn't grip onto a fastener as firmly as I wanted them to. Some also had a hard time grabbing shallow headed fasteners, because the fastener head didn't reach deep enough into the socket for the nut grip ball bearings to grab onto it. The ball bearings located in each socket are also very tiny, and the coiled springs that hold them in place are on the outside of the socket and are quite thin. Damage to the spring probably isn't likely to happen if you are turning small nut grip sockets by hand, but if you want to use them with an impact driver, the spring would likely become damaged quite easily as a result of even a small snag or rub against the side of the socket while it's spinning. The nut grip ball bearings would then fall out and be lost forever.

If it helps, this is what I do in the same situation. I always remove and install fasteners by hand if plastic is involved in any way, so my technique may or may not work well for you. I first use a long power drive to 1/4" male square drive extension along with a normal semi-deep or deep socket to break loose all the nuts securing the item to the vehicle, and I unscrew them almost to the end of their studs. Once near the end of their studs, a semi or deep socket is no longer needed and a magnetic socket can be used, so I switch over to a regular length 1/4" drive magnetic impact socket, mated to a 6-18" long Apex pin lock power drive socket extension. I use that setup to turn each of the nuts the last couple revolutions on their studs before removal, so they can't get away from me and fall down into a hard to access area. I use the reverse procedure when putting everything back together.

There are multiple companies like Grey Pneumatic, who make 1/4" drive deep magnetic impact sockets (set number 9712MDG for metric), which have a magnet mounted on a spring inside the socket, so the socket still works and magnetically holds onto the nut, even when threading it on or off of a stud.


Something like that would allow you to do everything in one step and also use an impact driver, but the sockets are a bit pricey.
 
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ChevyEFI

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Thanks for your time and thought. I am going to reconsider the sliding magnet Ko-Ken 115G drivers which have, at least, varying length availability IIRC, and review the GP you linked.
 
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