Ko-ken Nutgripper Sockets
- Thread starter Ralf11
- Start date
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Long story short, yes. I'll write a better review when I'm at a computer. I have the etorx, universal joint, shallow in 1/4 and 3/8.
toddmorr
Well-known member
sure they work just fine, i have and use the shallow 3/8. The question is how often do you really need the grip. But as with most stuff i suppose, when you need it you gotta have it.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Expanded thoughts:
They're basically magnetic sockets that don't get stuck to stuff when the magnet overpowers the detent on your extension. I love mine, the 1/4 live on my cart - 7/8/10/12/13/14
Downsides are that they don't work on bolts with low-profile heads, like some self tapping interior and trim screws. Frankly the magnets work poorly for that as well. IMO the only terrible issue with them is skipping sizes. 3/8 for instance skips 16 and 18. No big deal right? You're using them on asian cars, who needs 16mm? I'll tell you who, the guy installing aftermarket strut mounts where the nuts are now 16mm, and the studs are a different pitch than factory so you can't reuse the original ones.
No 15mm 1/4 drive in zeal or nut grip is also painful to accept. I use the 1/4 stuff the most, and it kicks ***. It's awesome for those calculated strikes where you remove the condenser without removing the under-tray or bumper, so all fasteners are dealt with via 1/4 drive, and tiny spaces. I use the 3/8 less. Usually if 3/8 is involved I can break free and spin off, then remove and reinstall with the 1/4 drive stuff, and retorque in 3/8. My main use for the 3/8 are strut mounts in deep areas.
I make a living with mine, I'd buy them again if starting over.
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Koken and Wera nut grip sockets are not magnetic.
At least the 1/4 inch drive sockets I have aren't.
The way the Koken nut grip works is that, there are two small detent balls opposite each other centered on two sides of the six point nut grip socket. on the outside of the socket is a few turns of lets say wire, that wire provides some spring tension on the two detent balls. the friction of the balls is what retains the bolt or nut in the socket, not a magnet.
http://www.kokenusa.com/products/model/14
The Wera sockets with holding function don't use wire for ball tension. they use a black friction band. The wera are available in more sizes like 5.5 mm which is extremely handy.
At least the 1/4 inch drive sockets I have aren't.
The way the Koken nut grip works is that, there are two small detent balls opposite each other centered on two sides of the six point nut grip socket. on the outside of the socket is a few turns of lets say wire, that wire provides some spring tension on the two detent balls. the friction of the balls is what retains the bolt or nut in the socket, not a magnet.
http://www.kokenusa.com/products/model/14
The Wera sockets with holding function don't use wire for ball tension. they use a black friction band. The wera are available in more sizes like 5.5 mm which is extremely handy.
Last edited:
Tone is similar in using a band.Koken and Wera nut grip sockets are not magnetic.
At least the 1/4 inch drive sockets I have aren't.
The way the Koken nut grip works is that, there are two small detent balls opposite each other centered on two sides of the six point nut grip socket. on the outside of the socket is a few turns of lets say wire, that wire provides some spring tension on the two detent balls. the friction of the balls is what retains the bolt or nut in the socket, not a magnet.
http://www.kokenusa.com/products/model/14
The Wera sockets with holding function don't use wire for ball tension. they use a black friction band. The wera are available in more sizes like 5.5 mm which is extremely handy.
I have the Koken, no regrets. Koken really make the finest sockets in the world.
An aside but their zeal sockets are a real pleasure to use in the rust belt where tighter tolerances mean the difference between stripped and not.
Tone:
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
Koken and Wera nut grip sockets are not magnetic.
At least the 1/4 inch drive sockets I have aren't.
The way the Koken nut grip works is that, there are two small detent balls opposite each other centered on two sides of the six point nut grip socket. on the outside of the socket is a few turns of lets say wire, that wire provides some spring tension on the two detent balls. the friction of the balls is what retains the bolt or nut in the socket, not a magnet.
http://www.kokenusa.com/products/model/14
The Wera sockets with holding function don't use wire for ball tension. they use a black friction band. The wera are available in more sizes like 5.5 mm which is extremely handy.
I should have clarified they're NOT magnetic, they just function in place of your magnetic sockets by holding the fasteners.
How do the Wera do compared to the Koken? Maybe I'll top my sets off with Wera.
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The wera nut holding sockets have a lip on the top edges of the socket to aid in friction band retention. this makes the wall thickness of the socket seem thicker when viewed from the top but, I haven't encountered any access issues with the weras though. Wera offering the 5.5 mm nut holding socket is a great thing plus I think the weras are easier to get than Koken and wera also offers them in 3/8 & 1/2 drive but, i've only used their 1/4 drive versions. Wera also uses 4 balls on larger sizes.
Look at this KC Tool video of wera 1/4 drive nut holding sockets to see what i mean about the lip.
https://www.kctoolco.com/wera-003880-belt-1-zyklop-1-4-socket-set-with-holding-function-metric/
richfinn
Well-known member
I'm doing valve cover gaskets on a Toyota V6 (2GR-FSE). They love to put nuts on studs in a lot of places. Dark places. There's a bracket on the rear of the alternator that slips over a stud on the engine block and is held in place with a flanged nut. You have to essentially approach it blind, and there are too many other things nearby to use a magnetic socket or a dab of grease in a standard socket. If you bump anything during the attempt you'll spend 5 minutes fishing the nut out of the recesses of the engine bay. After swapping the alternator out last year and knowing I would have to deal with that little ******* again, I ordered the nutgrip set in 1/4", basically for that one nut.
Worth every penny.
Worth every penny.
G1GRANDEUR
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2009
- Messages
- 2,094
I have them in 10mm and 12mm. work really well for bolts, nuts you have to use pick or pocket screw driver to take them off each time.
richfinn
Well-known member
The beauty of Ko-Ken nutgrip is that its non magnetic but still grips the fasteners very well to guide them into location.
With magnetic sockets you will find the fastener is guided by the invisible "magnetic force"
With these Japanese puppies, you decide exactly where it goes
G1GRANDEUR
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2009
- Messages
- 2,094
at my work, 90% bolts and nuts are stainless steel. so yes, big different.
Guess I should have expanded on that - it made sense in my head, I swear. I was responding to this:
I haven't experienced any difficulty removing the flanged nuts from the nut-grips as compared to a standard bolt. The flange on the bottom of the nut prevents it from disappearing into the socket, and I can easily grip the flange with my fingertips to remove the nut - no more difficult than a magnetic socket would be, or vice versa.
richfinn
Well-known member
Now I understand what you mean, thanks
gjusername
Well-known member
check out the wera "screw-holding" sockets as well, they're the same idea. I have a set of them in 1/4" and haven't had a chance to use them much yet but they do work so I like them. They also come with a pointy rubber thing that you can use to extract nuts from the sockets, which can be difficult without that tool if they don't have a flange.
Last edited:
After this thread started, I ordered the Wera holding sockets in 10 and 12mm as well.
After comparing the two, here's my take:
The Ko-Ken are smaller in every dimension - the 10mm is ~4-5mm shorter and ~1.5mm smaller in diameter. Based on my calibrated fingers, the Ko-Ken sockets hold the nut a little more securely. Both are finished in a nice satin chrome, and I prefer the knurling on the Wera - although it isn't nearly as coarse a tooth or nearly as deep as what is shown in the product pictures. The size markings on the Wera's are much easier to read, which may be important to you depending on how you store your sockets.
I don't think you could go wrong with either option, but if you need/want the absolute lowest profile socket to reach the tightest spots, get the Ko-Ken.
After comparing the two, here's my take:
The Ko-Ken are smaller in every dimension - the 10mm is ~4-5mm shorter and ~1.5mm smaller in diameter. Based on my calibrated fingers, the Ko-Ken sockets hold the nut a little more securely. Both are finished in a nice satin chrome, and I prefer the knurling on the Wera - although it isn't nearly as coarse a tooth or nearly as deep as what is shown in the product pictures. The size markings on the Wera's are much easier to read, which may be important to you depending on how you store your sockets.
I don't think you could go wrong with either option, but if you need/want the absolute lowest profile socket to reach the tightest spots, get the Ko-Ken.