Kobalt table saw riving knife alignment issues

[The English Hacker]

Hoping for a bit of reassurance from board members. I'm a complete noob when it comes to table saws but purchased a Kobalt on sale during Fathers Day weekend. Set it up last weekend and I was having great difficulty aligning the blade with the riving knife, to the point that I felt it safer to add a washer to the left of the blade to move it closer. I did this and I'm now happy with the alignment. Prior to adding the washer I had difficulty cutting because the riving knife was blocking the path of my cut lumber causing more harm than good.

What would you have done?


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[Voi]

I was having great difficulty aligning the blade with the riving knife, to the point that I felt it safer to add a washer to the left of the blade to move it closer. I did this and I'm now happy with the alignment. Prior to adding the washer I had difficulty cutting because the riving knife was blocking the path of my cut lumber causing more harm than good.

What would you have done?

Check the owners manual, which I assume you already did.

Make sure the throat guard is even with the table saw so the wood isn't dipping down and hitting the riving knife at a different angle then it hit the blade.

Check to see if the lumber was hitting the riving knife high or low, which would suggest the knife might not be parallel with the blade.

Rais the blade and knife all the way up and checked for parallel with square.

Check to see how the knife is attached to the trunnion assembly of the saw to see if it could be adjusted.

If I did have to add a washer I'd check blade run out before and after adding it with a dial gauge.

 

[The English Hacker]

Check the owners manual, which I assume you already did.

Make sure the throat guard is even with the table saw so the wood isn't dipping down and hitting the riving knife at a different angle then it hit the blade.

Check to see if the lumber was hitting the riving knife high or low, which would suggest the knife might not be parallel with the blade.

Rais the blade and knife all the way up and checked for parallel with square.

Check to see how the knife is attached to the trunnion assembly of the saw to see if it could be adjusted.

If I did have to add a washer I'd check blade run out before and after adding it with a dial gauge.

Thanks for the response.

Yes, I've read and re-read the manual a thousand times. It's not very good.

There are three set screws for adjusting the riving knife. The manual doesn't detail how the turning of the set screws affect the alignment of the riving knife but when I tried they just made it sloppier in each direction. The tighter they are, the closer the riving knife is (moving left) to the blade. However, it can't get close enough, in line with the blade, to do its job. The washer that I used brings the blade to the right, aligning it with the knife.

 

[trbizwiz]

I just bought a new Kobalt table saw this weekend too. i spent lots of time reading the manual and playing with adjustment. I have come to the same conclusion about the washer being the solution to moving the blade. I tried to adjust the blade over and it does not move enough. It is almost like the motor is set wrong, or the blade is missing a washer. I have a call in to Kobalt, but they appear to be closed today. i also called Lowes. They are supposed to be having a guy call me back.
I really like the features of this saw, for a small saw. But cutting square is a top priority form a table saw for me.
How is yours holding up with the washer? any thoughts or regrets after 7 months of use?

 

[vpar]

I am not able to align the riving knife with the saw blade. When looking from the front of the saw the riving knife sticks out to the right about 1/16th of inch. I used the set screws on the bottom of knob of the riving knife, but it makes no difference. Any tips on this problem? Also i was using a 7/64" allen wrench for the set screws, is that the right size?

I am new at using the table saw and think I am not doing this right. I tried to rip a melamine board about 3/4" thick and I could not feed the board more than 6-8 inches. I was trying to make a rip cut of about 30" long, but after cutting 6-8 inches I just could not push any further. The board could not be fed any further to complete the cut. I stopped the cut and removed the board and could see some burn marks. I am using a 80 tooth carbide tipped Irwin saw blade for this operation. I had checked the alignment of the rip fence and it was right. As explained above the riving knife is still a bit out of alignment, however when I had to stop the cut, the board had not even reached the riving knife. I had adjusted the height of my saw blade to about 1/8" higher than the thickness of the board, could it be that my saw blade is not high enough.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[MNowinski]

I realize this is a long past response,, but would like to add a comment or two.

1. While the instructions do no specifically state in words what to do with the set screws, there are two separate paragraphs....one for adjusting the lateral movement, which will move the knife across the width of the blade. The second paragraph talks about aligning the knife vertically.

2. After a lot of checking I finally found that the Allen wrench to use is a #3 Metric, not the 7/64 you mention. This wrench works perfectly and I was able to adjust the riving knife properly.

Hope this helps.

Once the blade, riving knife and rip fence are adjusted properly, this is great saw for the price. Not exactly custom woodwork quality, but great for around the house projects.

I am not able to align the riving knife with the saw blade. When looking from the front of the saw the riving knife sticks out to the right about 1/16th of inch. I used the set screws on the bottom of knob of the riving knife, but it makes no difference. Any tips on this problem? Also i was using a 7/64" allen wrench for the set screws, is that the right size?

I am new at using the table saw and think I am not doing this right. I tried to rip a melamine board about 3/4" thick and I could not feed the board more than 6-8 inches. I was trying to make a rip cut of about 30" long, but after cutting 6-8 inches I just could not push any further. The board could not be fed any further to complete the cut. I stopped the cut and removed the board and could see some burn marks. I am using a 80 tooth carbide tipped Irwin saw blade for this operation. I had checked the alignment of the rip fence and it was right. As explained above the riving knife is still a bit out of alignment, however when I had to stop the cut, the board had not even reached the riving knife. I had adjusted the height of my saw blade to about 1/8" higher than the thickness of the board, could it be that my saw blade is not high enough.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Wow, 3 out of the first 6 post are peoples first post.
To all the new people, Welcome to the group.
When you have time please update your profile to include your state and city. It makes it easier to answer questions being prices can be regional.

 

[firsttimeuser84]

I realize this is a long past response,, but would like to add a comment or two.

1. While the instructions do no specifically state in words what to do with the set screws, there are two separate paragraphs....one for adjusting the lateral movement, which will move the knife across the width of the blade. The second paragraph talks about aligning the knife vertically.

2. After a lot of checking I finally found that the Allen wrench to use is a #3 Metric, not the 7/64 you mention. This wrench works perfectly and I was able to adjust the riving knife properly.

Hope this helps.

Once the blade, riving knife and rip fence are adjusted properly, this is great saw for the price. Not exactly custom woodwork quality, but great for around the house projects.

Thank you so much for writing this reply! It's been two years, but it just helped me understand my riving knife issues on my recently purchased Kobalt table saw. The instructions are less than helpful. Coincidentally, I tried a #6, #5, and #4 metric allen key, to no avail. Thanks for listing the specific allen key size! It fixed my problem very quickly. I looked all over for tips to no avail, but created an account to thank you.

 

[brianlacy]

I've got two issues with this riving knife biz ... K1015 model.

1. the alignment as above PLUS
2. Trying to pry it out of there... any tips of instant success out there?

Otherwise very happy w saw mobility and overall function.

New member ; )

Thanks for all the useful news above.

Brian in Portland Oregon ...

 

[mitchell486]

I've got two issues with this riving knife biz ... K1015 model.

1. the alignment as above PLUS
2. Trying to pry it out of there... any tips of instant success out there?

Otherwise very happy w saw mobility and overall function.

New member ; )

Thanks for all the useful news above.

Brian in Portland Oregon ...

Brian,

I just bought this saw. Created a brand new account to hopefully help! I’m currently sitting in the garage and just finished puting it together... I’ve only fought the riving knife and couldn’t figure out to raise or lower it. Actually, I haven’t even powered the silly thing on, because I couldn’t put the blade guard on due to the starting height of the riving knife. So, after re-reading the assembly section I moved onto troubleshooting. Turns out, page 21 and page 40 both BARELY have the proper release method listed. You have to push in on the quick release knob that tightens the riving knife to release/move the riving knife at all. I 100% missed it the first 5 times I tried adjusting that thing, and re-read the directions every time. It’s so easy to miss that small line, the picture actually gave it away as I noticed it while browsing the troubleshooting section. Pushing in on it lets it move, and it comes completely out!! I feel silly, but I hope this helps. Guess it’s now a bit late to actually do any work, but I have to at least fire it up.

 

[woodburner60]

After using my Kobalt table saw for several years without using any of the lovely safety features (because I couldn't get the riving knife aligned), I finally did it. After needing four stitches and some glue applied to my thumb (I was lucky) at our local urgent care center, I went home and decided I had better start using the safety features that would have prevented my injury. I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO GET THE RIVING KNIFE ALIGNED!. Previoiusly I had just tried to tighten those three hex screws to no avail. After viewing a video from someone in the UK regarding a totally different table saw, I tried what they did - LOOSENED all three screws, then aligned the riving knife with the blade, THEN tighted the screws back up. It took a couple of tries, but it is now aligned and I was able to complete the cuts that were so rudely interrupted by my rather ****** encounter yesterday. So, take heart, those of you who have struggled mightily with this issue. If it worked for me, perhaps it will work for you.

 

[C Sera]

I am having the same issue with the riving knife as VPAR. I have had my tablesaw for a few years but only recently been having more of an issue of not being able to cut all the way thru the piece before it stalls. Figured out it was getting hung up on the riving knife as it was not aligned with the blade. Are the set screws hidden? I have read the manual several times. I see in the manual where they should be located but can’t see any screws to adjust. The riving knife is off set about 1/16 from the blade just enough to catch and not let the piece slide through.

 

[Tmac]

I have the same issue and I only have 2 Allen screws on my kobalt KT1015. When I adjust it so it is parallel with the blade the riving knife is loose. When I tighten it the knife is tight but off to the right by 16th really poor design. Question is, is it safe to leave it Slightly loose? It's tight in the clamps but I can wiggle it back and forth (side to side) that is

 

[Lenny Rosen]

I had a Kobalt KT10152, 10 inch Table Saw with a riving knife that was out of allignment. I had a very hard time understanding the instructions in the owners manual. I downloaded the Delta 36-6000 series insturction manual and found the instructins were clearer but still confusing. After struggling with it I finally was able to figure the adjustment out. I wrote down the instructions so I can remember them in the future. I have attached these instructions. I hope this will help some of you that are having the same problem.

By the way, my table saw is working like a charm now.

 

[Chap125]

I have the same issue and I only have 2 Allen screws on my kobalt KT1015. When I adjust it so it is parallel with the blade the riving knife is loose. When I tighten it the knife is tight but off to the right by 16th really poor design. Question is, is it safe to leave it Slightly loose? It's tight in the clamps but I can wiggle it back and forth (side to side) that is

I have the same issue. Is this how it's suppose to work?

 

[reidmakesmusic]

I had a Kobalt KT10152, 10 inch Table Saw with a riving knife that was out of allignment. I had a very hard time understanding the instructions in the owners manual. I downloaded the Delta 36-6000 series insturction manual and found the instructins were clearer but still confusing. After struggling with it I finally was able to figure the adjustment out. I wrote down the instructions so I can remember them in the future. I have attached these instructions. I hope this will help some of you that are having the same problem.

By the way, my table saw is working like a charm now.

Thanks for the great tips sheet!

 

[Lenny Rosen]

I love my Kobalt Table Saw. Especially now that my Riving Knife is in the perfect position. I have always been a fan of Delta Table Saws. I gave up my Delta when I moved from Atlanta to Palm Beach Florida. I thought that I wouldn't have any room for a proper wood shop. As it turned out, I now have the room. The Kobalt is a twin sister to the Delta 36-6000 series and a great deal lower in price. I believe the parts are mostly interchangeable. I am a woodcrafter not a furniture maker. Most of my work in on a Delta Scroll Saw. I use my table saw as needed. The riving knife is so important to the safety of the table saw. Please take the time to make the necessary adjustments to allign the riving knife properly. See the attached instructions. Take your time and do it right.

 

[reidmakesmusic]

I love my Kobalt Table Saw. Especially now that my Riving Knife is in the perfect position. I have always been a fan of Delta Table Saws. I gave up my Delta when I moved from Atlanta to Palm Beach Florida. I thought that I wouldn't have any room for a proper wood shop. As it turned out, I now have the room. The Kobalt is a twin sister to the Delta 36-6000 series and a great deal lower in price. I believe the parts are mostly interchangeable. I am a woodcrafter not a furniture maker. Most of my work in on a Delta Scroll Saw. I use my table saw as needed. The riving knife is so important to the safety of the table saw. Please take the time to make the necessary adjustments to allign the riving knife properly. See the attached instructions. Take your time and do it right.

I used your instructions and was able to get the riving knife pretty well aligned, so thanks again, Lenny! I think the hex wrench size you indicate in your instructions was one size too small, but I'd need to double check and don't feel like opening up the belly of the beast again right now . I could be wrong. Anyway, if you start messing with any TS I'd have a whole set of metric and SAE hex nearby!

After using the saw for a couple weeks after getting it on sale, I still think it's a good deal, though I feel like I've had to adjust basically everything with the saw they said was highly calibrated at the factory. I'll see how I feel in a few months. I wish it had the out-feed support bar the of the previous iteration.

Each set of colored tabs for the three fence positions was off. I had to adjust the bevel hex screw to allow me to get to 90.

I the Kobalt blade with a better combination DeWalt with a thinner kerf it cuts better, though using a thinner kerf blade requires the riving knife to be in even more precise alignment. The manual actually says it's too thin to use but it's still thicker than the riving knife so it works.

I picked up a zero-clearance insert plate a guy makes on his CNC on Etsy at it's been worthwhile to have. Knew I could have made my own but price was good for the quality. I may end up getting another to allow me to use the MicroJig splitters or similar and ditch the problematic riving knife all together. I'd be curious if any folks on here have made custom knives/splitters for it or have used splitters like the MicroJig.

Do you use a vacuum dust attachment for yours, Lenny? I have a Bosch dust bag on mine now which helps. I can't seem to find the right hose adapter for my Rigid shop vac. How long have you been using the saw and have you used other blades in it or a dado stack? Anyone have any problems getting a dado stack on it?

 

[reidmakesmusic]

(Duplicate error, deleted)

 

[Cr@ftL@dy]

I used your instructions and was able to get the riving knife pretty well aligned, so thanks again, Lenny! I think the hex wrench size you indicate in your instructions was one size too small, but I'd need to double check and don't feel like opening up the belly of the beast again right now . I could be wrong. Anyway, if you start messing with any TS I'd have a whole set of metric and SAE hex nearby!

After using the saw for a couple weeks after getting it on sale, I still think it's a good deal, though I feel like I've had to adjust basically everything with the saw they said was highly calibrated at the factory. I'll see how I feel in a few months. I wish it had the out-feed support bar the of the previous iteration.

Each set of colored tabs for the three fence positions was off. I had to adjust the bevel hex screw to allow me to get to 90.

I the Kobalt blade with a better combination DeWalt with a thinner kerf it cuts better, though using a thinner kerf blade requires the riving knife to be in even more precise alignment. The manual actually says it's too thin to use but it's still thicker than the riving knife so it works.

I picked up a zero-clearance insert plate a guy makes on his CNC on Etsy at it's been worthwhile to have. Knew I could have made my own but price was good for the quality. I may end up getting another to allow me to use the MicroJig splitters or similar and ditch the problematic riving knife all together. I'd be curious if any folks on here have made custom knives/splitters for it or have used splitters like the MicroJig.

Do you use a vacuum dust attachment for yours, Lenny? I have a Bosch dust bag on mine now which helps. I can't seem to find the right hose adapter for my Rigid shop vac. How long have you been using the saw and have you used other blades in it or a dado stack? Anyone have any problems getting a dado stack on it?

Ooh! Like your question about the vacuum dust attachment. Dear Husband has been taping our Rigid hose, and using an angled bit of PVC tubing to make a better connection, but it's still a "make do" because we can't find the right hose adapter, either. Any suggestions would be welcome!

 

[RTM]

Ooh! Like your question about the vacuum dust attachment. Dear Husband has been taping our Rigid hose, and using an angled bit of PVC tubing to make a better connection, but it's still a "make do" because we can't find the right hose adapter, either. Any suggestions would be welcome!

You may need to look for something like this. Measure the Internal and Outsde Diameters of the pieces you want to mate. HD and Lowes don’t typically carry these types of adapters.

WoodRiver Dust Connection - Universal Tool Adapter Dust Collection Fitting

Buy the WoodRiver Dust Connection - Universal Tool Adapter Dust Collection Fitting for sale online from Woodcraft. Visit us to order online or find your local Woodcraft store today!

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Poking around here may help.

Shop Dust Collection Accessories | Woodcraft

Shop Dust Collection Accessories and more woodworking products for sale from Woodcraft! Visit us today to find your local Woodcraft store.

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[Cr@ftL@dy]

Measured, poked around, and ordered something that looks like it will do! Thank you!

 

[woodlove]

I have the same issue. Is this how it's suppose to work?

I have the Kobalt Table Saw KT1015. Today I tried ( using the attached instruction ) to adjust the riving knife and gave up because when I try to adjust the horizontal setting with the 2 set screws the riving knife becomes loose. As for the vertical setting the corresponding setting screw doesn't have any effect on the vertical adjustment. I will try to use the instructions provided by Lenny Rosen ( thank you for your post) I have also in mind verifying the distance between the saw blade to the slot ( front to back ) and make the adjustment if needed. Anyone having done that on a Kobalt table saw ? Thank you all

 

[Gayle 305]

Whoever designed Kobalt tablesaw KT10152 should be fired. Took me 2 hours to figure this out. Place saw on its side. Remove dust bin to access the riving knife adjustment screws. Five screws need to be adjusted . Tip #1 - You cannot adjust all 5 at the same time because the stem of the riving knife blocks the screws. So you have to adjust 1 screw at a item and lift the knife, then adjust next screw and lift knife a little bit more, and so on and so on. Tip #2 - loosen all 5 screws then align knife by adjusting the 3 small screws. After you have the knife aligned THEN tighten the two screws that fasten down the stem of the knife. Good luck.

 

[woodlove]

Thank you gayle. I have the same table saw and had to do the same thing to adjust the riving knife. Reading the instructions it looks pretty easy but as you said it is intricate.
Did you ever adjust the trunnion bolts to get an acceptable alignment between the saw blade and the miter slots ? I did it once and I had to go through the same lengthy and tedious process though I am not quite sure that I got the right results.
To check if the alignment is good I am measuring the difference in width between the front and back of the cut Here is what I got over a rip cut of 20 inch length and 3 inch wide : 0.00315 " . The back being wider which I guess should be the opposite if I am not wrong.
Anyone can help please ?