KR1000

[Will C.]

I traded an old project I've had laying around for this the other day. She has some dings and peeled paint but it will be used as my roll cart while I take my other one home, so cosmetics aren't an issue since it will be my workhorse.
I have never had an older Snap On box and was surprised at how much of a tank this thing is. She's heavy but still rolls fine. Has anyone ever had much luck in getting Snap On to replace slides in these boxes?

 

[Buckgnarly]

Welcome to the club. There some good threads on here about the slides....Accuride made them, but I THINK someone recently said you could get them from Snap On whereas before Accuride provided service.

 

[Will C.]

Thanks.
It sounds promising then. My dealer doesn't want to mess with them so I will reach out to corporate and see how it goes.

 

[Mr_B]

the older boxes are proper stout steel, well worth bit of time refurb it a bit and will do decades of use ...
if you don't get much help first call to corporate it sometimes pay end that conversation & try again a few days later as sometimes it simply case of getting right individual for right result .

 

[dr_clyde]

KR-1000s are great boxes, I’ve owned a few over the years.

They’re still supported, but the slides for the big bottom right drawer are a pain to warranty, they’re not common and it takes months to get them in. The rest of the drawers are easy.

 

[Will C.]

KR-1000s are great boxes, I’ve owned a few over the years.

They’re still supported, but the slides for the big bottom right drawer are a pain to warranty, they’re not common and it takes months to get them in. The rest of the drawers are easy.

Everyones response sound good. I was starting to be a little concerned I wouldn't be able to get parts for it after my rep blew it off.

 

[wesst]

I was able to get 4 slides from corporate for a kr-660 last year. I was surprised due to the age, so I believe you may have some luck

 

[Will C.]

I was able to get 4 slides from corporate for a kr-660 last year. I was surprised due to the age, so I believe you may have some luck

I called and they sent me all of the slides free of charge. Did you rivet your new ones back in? I haven't opened the packages yet but each set of slides has screws in the bags with the slides. Wondering if I am supposed to screw the new ones on instead of rivet?

 

[wesst]

Mine were screwed in both before and after. Not sure if you could drill the rivets and then use the screws, but the screws do make cleaning the slides a bit easier.

 

[Wamsutta]

I called and they sent me all of the slides free of charge. Did you rivet your new ones back in? I haven't opened the packages yet but each set of slides has screws in the bags with the slides. Wondering if I am supposed to screw the new ones on instead of rivet?

The bayonets will hold the slides on just fine on their own. You don't need the rivets.

 

[Ohmthis]

I agree with wesst, I asked for slides for my KR655 and KR 660. They sent them and I took the screw out, and used the old screw to install the new ones. I love these older boxes. I just wish they had a bigger top drawer for sockets. Oh well! I’ll use mine until I’m dead because I think they will last that long.

 

[WMichelsen]

If you find an easy method to replacing your slides, please take a video or provide a good write-up. I have 2 KR1000s and removed/reinstalled all of them. I just can't seem to do it without significant force, bending the drawer sides too much for comfort, and scratching the drawer paint. The force/scratching is in the very far rear outer side, so not a huge deal. But still...

 

[Wamsutta]

If you find an easy method to replacing your slides, please take a video or provide a good write-up.

Snap-on put out a good video.

 

[WMichelsen]

That's nice. But, the slides in the KR1000 do not come apart like shown at 0:09s
Maybe I should say, the slides in my KR1000s do not come apart. So, you can't remove the drawer like that.

 

[Wamsutta]

That's nice. But, the slides in the KR1000 do not come apart like shown at 0:09s

I know, that's why you disconnect the drawer from the slides and pull the drawer away from the slides before disconnecting the slides from the box. The older boxes don't have quick release, but they don't require a pry bar to remove the slides like the new box in the video.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

I called and they sent me all of the slides free of charge. Did you rivet your new ones back in? I haven't opened the packages yet but each set of slides has screws in the bags with the slides. Wondering if I am supposed to screw the new ones on instead of rivet?

If it will take the screws, use the screws. I have a couple of KR 637 boxes. On my 1987 model, the slides were riveted to the box. On my 1990 one, they're screwed. It was much easier to replace the screwed in slides. Really just depends how it was made originally.

 

[WMichelsen]

I know, that's why you disconnect the drawer from the slides and pull the drawer away from the slides before disconnecting the slides from the box. The older boxes don't have quick release, but they don't require a pry bar to remove the slides like the new box in the video.

I must be missing something basic. At least I hope so.
Here are annotated pics from one of my drawers. My 2 KR1000s have slightly different slides, but I have not found a way to pull the drawer out from the cabinet halves. And, I have not found a way to easily remove the drawer from the slide, while in the cabinet, because of the very rear tang.
There must be a way to pull out the drawer slide half, from the box slide half. I have not discovered it, yet. I sincerely hope you can clarify for me.

Edit: Actually, I see on the bottom slide version. It needs to pull farther out, then the plastic finger tangs should be accessible. But the top slide does not have those.

 

[Wamsutta]

I must be missing something basic. At least I hope so.
Here are annotated pics from one of my drawers. My 2 KR1000s have slightly different slides, but I have not found a way to pull the drawer out from the cabinet halves. And, I have not found a way to easily remove the drawer from the slide, while in the cabinet, because of the very rear tang.
There must be a way to pull out the drawer slide half, from the box slide half. I have not discovered it, yet. I sincerely hope you can clarify for me.

Edit: Actually, I see on the bottom slide version. It needs to pull farther out, then the plastic finger tangs should be accessible. But the top slide does not have those.

Your picture in the center tells the whole story.

After you remove those screws, you pull up on the drawer and push down on the slide at the same time to release the front and center "tongues."

While the front and center "tongues" are released and you're holding the drawer, push the drawer forward and pull back on the slide to release the rear "tongue."

After the left slide is released from the drawer, repeat those same steps for the right side.

Don't bend the slide from the drawer like in that last picture.

The drawer needs to go up to release the front and center "tongues," and then forward to release the rear "tongues."

One final note: Sometimes the drawer will want to have both the left and right front "tongues" released before the rear "tongues" can be released. You'll have to get a feel for the drawer to see what it wants to do.

 

[WMichelsen]

Don't bend the slide from the drawer like in that last picture.

The drawer needs to go up to release the front and center "tongues," and then forward to release the rear "tongues."

The picture with the slide bent out is just to show the front tangs are free, but the rear is a problem.
Yes, what you describe is true, but not the complete story.
To free the drawer from the slide requires some significant prying and scraping. That just doesn't seem correct.
Maybe it is... I dunno. I suspect I'm missing something. Or, it's a bit of a wacky factory assembly technique.
That's why I'd like to see a video of the process, because I just don't get it.

BTW, neither of my slide styles are separable. After looking at the photo I posted earlier, I thought the bottom one had the plastic release. But as shown, they are both pulled out 100%. There is nothing to release the inner and outer slides.

 

[Wamsutta]

They are like a bayonet mounted to a rifle. One bayonet will be there to prevent the drawer from moving fore and aft, which is the rear. The other bayonet will prevent the drawer from moving up or down. On an old box like a KR1000, you do not need to use a pry bar anywhere. Maybe a light tap with a wood dowel and a hammer, but never a pry bar. The holes punched in the sheet metal are squares. The bayonets go into the squares.

 

[WMichelsen]

They are like a bayonet mounted to a rifle. One bayonet will be there to prevent the drawer from moving fore and aft, which is the rear. The other bayonet will prevent the drawer from moving up or down. On an old box like a KR1000, you do not need to use a pry bar anywhere. Maybe a light tap with a wood dowel and a hammer, but never a pry bar. The holes punched in the sheet metal are squares. The bayonets go into the squares.

I fully understand the square holes, bayonet directions, and anchoring directions. I've posted hands-on pictures of such. As shown, I can easily loosen all of them. The drawer is free to move 1/2" fore/aft.

But, after loosening all 3 of them, that rear one is still trapped simply because of the tight fit. It is loose, but still within the square hole.
To clear the hole, the drawer side needs to be pushed inward by roughly 3/16". After that, since the drawer bottom panel and/or rear panel are not flexible, there is diminishing clearance as you try to remove the drawer.

So, how do you remove the drawer without prying. I still don't see how that can be done. Please post a photo or preferably video.

 

[dr_clyde]

I fully understand the square holes, bayonet directions, and anchoring directions. I've posted hands-on pictures of such. As shown, I can easily loosen all of them. The drawer is free to move 1/2" fore/aft.

But, after loosening all 3 of them, that rear one is still trapped simply because of the tight fit. It is loose, but still within the square hole.
To clear the hole, the drawer side needs to be pushed inward by roughly 3/16". After that, since the drawer bottom panel and/or rear panel are not flexible, there is diminishing clearance as you try to remove the drawer.

So, how do you remove the drawer without prying. I still don't see how that can be done. Please post a photo or preferably video.

If I remember correctly, I used a mallet and punch to whack the old slide up to free it while twisting on it. There may have been a prybar involved, I don't remember.

What's your problem with a prybar? It's not like you're going to be putting massive dents in it or something. It just needs a little tweak and a bump.

You can take an adjustable wrench and twist the old slide while you give it a smack with a mallet from underneath, then once it's free you can pull it forward and out.

I remember it being a bit of a pain, but not that big of a deal to get loose.

I should point out this is for removing the slide from the box, not the drawer. I never had any issues removing them from the drawers.

 

[WMichelsen]

What's your problem with a prybar? It's not like you're going to be putting massive dents in it or something. It just needs a little tweak and a bump.

If that's the requirement, so be it. However, I'm just being told it's easy. No prying needed... just pull out the drawer... easy-peasy.

But, that's not what I'm experiencing hands-on-the-metal. And it bugs me. Hard to do without scratching more paint (not a big deal, it's outside drawer side at the very back). That's annoying.

It sure seems I'm missing something basic.
Or, I'm being gaslighted, and this is a wacky way for SnapOn to have originally assembled the box. If so, that's probably why they use separable slides now.

I should point out this is for removing the slide from the box, not the drawer. I never had any issues removing them from the drawers.

That's not the issue. That and all other aspects of drawer slide replacement are simple and clear. No worries.

I'm only talking about this single step in the process... After loosening the tabs/tangs/tongues/bayonets/clips.. How to remove rear part of the drawer from the cabinet/slide? .. without bending or prying anything.

 

[Wamsutta]

I'm looking at your picture that shows all three bayonets on the left slide. This is how I do it:

1. Disconnect front and center bayonets from left side of drawer
2. Disconnect front and center bayonets from right side of drawer
3. Go back to left side of drawer and disconnect left rear bayonet
4. Go back to right side of drawer and disconnect right rear bayonet
5. Lift drawer from slides

After the front and center bayonets are disconnected on both sides, the drawer will be in a slightly tilted up position. It's that movement of going from horizontal to a slightly tilted up position that usually frees up the rear bayonets.

During the whole time I'm doing this, I'm using my thumb to push down on the front of the left slide to disconnect the front and center bayonets of the left slide. Same thing with the right slide. After I disconnect the front and center bayonets, I then take my index finger and pull back on the front of the slide to disconnect the rear bayonets. All physical contact with the slides are done from the front of the slides.

 

[WMichelsen]

I have not abandoned this thread. I simply have not had a chance to get to the garage and walk through this.
Steps 1-4 are not in question. Those are clear.
Step 5 is the only point of dispute. I think that description skips over the issue. I sincerely hope I am wrong.

 

[Nmhuntr]

I am looking at a 1986 KR1000 and I am trying to determine if all KR1000 boxes had bearing slides. I have asked the guy but he is lost on other projects and won’t make time to go confirm if he would even know. Just wondering before I make an offer

 

[FJ 432]

I have never seen a KR1000 with friction slides.

 

[Buckgnarly]

x2, don't think the KR1000 ever had friction.

 

[Wamsutta]

If that was mine it would be getting a full on restoration; every square millimeter. Light gray 2-part epoxy primer and genuine Snap-on red paint.

 

[hunter77!!!!]

I traded an old project I've had laying around for this the other day. She has some dings and peeled paint but it will be used as my roll cart while I take my other one home, so cosmetics aren't an issue since it will be my workhorse.
I have never had an older Snap On box and was surprised at how much of a tank this thing is. She's heavy but still rolls fine. Has anyone ever had much luck in getting Snap On to replace slides in these boxes?

Anyone know the part number for the slides on it

 

[Stick-man]

Tagged KR1000

I have a KR1000 with the matching top. I also have a KRL1003A the triple bank, and about 7 or more other Snappy boxes.

I got new casters for the 1000 & 1003, no problem from Snappy. But I do need some new drawer slides too.

 

[rdhayward]

Hi all, first post here. I'm headlong into refurbishing a KR1000A, have just finished painting the case and about to start on the drawers.

Is there a source for trim pieces such as the corner guards, trim caps, and drawer edge guards?

 

[dr_clyde]

Hi all, first post here. I'm headlong into refurbishing a KR1000A, have just finished painting the case and about to start on the drawers.

Is there a source for trim pieces such as the corner guards, trim caps, and drawer edge guards?

AFAIK, the only source is Snap-on, and they probably don't have much stock anymore for a box that old.

Contact them directly our flag down your local dealer and ask. I wish you luck.

 

[rdhayward]

Thank you. I ordered a pair of trim caps and corner guards for a KRL-1001, which are identical but about 1/2" shorter.

Still need drawer edge guards and would appreciate if anyone has a source or contact.