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Kr537 and kr557 questions

thejudges69

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youngstown, ohio
I’ve recently brought these boxes home. My brother bought them both new, and when he traded them in they were purchased back by my mom and given to me as my first box and I’m now handing them down to my oldest son.

They’ve been in my dad’s garage for a few years and condensation got to them and covered them in surface rust.


I’d like to know if anyone knows what’s available for these still? They have static slides except the bottom drawer is ball bearing. What about trim pieces?

And does anyone have the paint code for the 80’s era snap on red? I don’t think these are powder coated being this old.

I will post pics when I can, but it has a peterbilt top plaque and a peterbilt bottom drawer plaque that I need to remove to redo this box and I see they have twist nuts on them but I don’t know if they’re stuck on with double side tape also, does anyone know how these plaques are held on?
 
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Wamsutta

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Amarillo, Texas
I had an idea what those looked like but I went ahead and grabbed my 1990 catalog anyway. Those are very nice boxes. The sheet metal was real thick back then. The friction slides wouldn't bother me a bit. I'd clean all the channels out and lube the slides up with WD-40 DRY.

The paint code is PPG Ditzler Wet Spray Paint #73504 - Snap-on Red.

The powder coat is PPG Ditzler Powder Coat Resin #AR320 - Snap-on Red
 
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thejudges69

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I had an idea what those looked like but I went ahead and grabbed my 1980 catalog anyway. Those are very nice boxes. The sheet metal was real thick back then. The friction slides wouldn't bother me a bit. I'd clean all the channels out and lube the slides up with WD-40 DRY.

The paint code is PPG Ditzler Wet Spray Paint #73504 - Snap-on Red.

The powder coat is PPG Ditzler Powder Coat Resin #AR320 - Snap-on Red
I’m not sure bothered by the slides. They all work well, the box has been inside. His building isn’t insulated so it gets condensation at times of the year. I’d like to make it a restore with my son and have it sandblasted and redone.

Do you know if them were painted or powder coated in the mid 80’s?
 

Wamsutta

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Do you know if them were painted or powder coated in the mid 80’s?

I'm pretty sure they were powder coated because paint needs primer and Snap-on never primer coated anything.

When the boxes start to get scratched and flaked off, they look better without primer. Primer glows and is very noticeable next to that red.
 

Lookin4'67Galaxieconv

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Snap On should still have the slides. Call customer service (United States). You'll have to fabricate trim pieces if you need them. They should also have hinges for the fold over top.
 
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thejudges69

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Snap On should still have the slides. Call customer service (United States). You'll have to fabricate trim pieces if you need them. They should also have hinges for the fold over top.
Hinges are in all good shape. Slides are in good shape I wanted to upgrade to ball bearing if possible. But I will give them a call and ask if upgrades are available.
 
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Lookin4'67Galaxieconv

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Hinges are in all good shape. Slides are in good shape I wanted to upgrade to ball bearing if possible. But I will give them a call and ask if upgrades are available.

From what I've seen online, there really is no practical way to change over to ball bearing sliders from friction slides. I know that topic has been brought up here before. But you can always check.
 

tool_scrounge

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Southern California
Snap-on recommend lubricating the friction slides with paraffin wax. I really makes a difference in reducing the pull force.

My technique:
I remove all drawers and slides. I clean off all the residual oils and grease from the slides and rails with a solvent. I then take a brick of paraffin canning wax and rub all rails and slides mating surfaces. I find candle wax does not work as well. I then assemble the top drawer and slides, slide it in and out vigorously to knock off any excess wax that then drops to the bottom of the tool box. Repeat until you get to the last drawer. Then clean up the wax and the bottom of the tool box and then put in the last drawer.
 

Packard V8

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Spokane, WA
If you want a labor-intensive, expensive project, have a top and bottom box sandblasted and powder coated. The bad news is the all drawer slides have to be protected or some will be so gummed up they won't function.

Today, I wipe it down with WD-40 and steel wool, lube the slides and put it back to work.

jack vines
 

Uzumaki

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Jan 17, 2019
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Canberra Australia
I had an idea what those looked like but I went ahead and grabbed my 1990 catalog anyway. Those are very nice boxes. The sheet metal was real thick back then. The friction slides wouldn't bother me a bit. I'd clean all the channels out and lube the slides up with WD-40 DRY.

The paint code is PPG Ditzler Wet Spray Paint #73504 - Snap-on Red.

The powder coat is PPG Ditzler Powder Coat Resin #AR320 - Snap-on Red

You recommend WD-40 DRY over the parrafin wax Dri-Lube? Just easier to apply? How is it standing the test of time? Thanks :)
 

Kent_B

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Jul 4, 2013
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1,406
Location
MI
My roller & top chest date back to the late 1970's. I've had absolutely no problems with drawer slides.

Spot welds on the top chest (KRA59c) broke free decades ago, but that's another matter.
 
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