Kraft Facing - Substitute

[Spudland_Dave]

I ran into a deal on insulation for my garage. Problem is, some of the insulation (all R38, 23"w Batts) is unfaced, vast majority of it is faced.
A) Forget the facing, just try to get it in and strapped ASAP
B) Install and use an alternative facing...I'm thinkin tar paper?

If some of this stuff werent going under an already done attic floor, I'd just strap the cieling and install the insulation from the top, but that wont be possible in almost half of the garage.

 

[bigenos]

Plastic sheeting is a good vapor barrier and is probably cheap. I'm not sure what MIL thickness you want. Also, you'll need some tape for the seams and around outlets, etc.

I think tarpaper isn't a good idea, but I don't have any concrete reasons why.

 

[jlckmj]

I would install the insulation as is, then when you have it all up, slice the face with a razor knife to let it breath. Then I would cover everything with plastic for the vapor barrier.

Jim

 

[ForceFed70]

As mentioned - just use vapor barrier plastic. 6mil.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

So is it even worth using a vapor barrier at all?

My problem with no barrier isnt coming back and putting a sheet of plastic...thats easy & simple enough, its holding the insulation up while I'm installing it and get to strapping it. I'm planning on using the 15" wide rolls of R30 which is unfaced in my 24" OC trusses. beauty of the facing is I can just staple it up...I was hoping for a 24" wide paper I could staple up as I work along...hold the insulation up and be a vapor barrier.

 

[bigenos]

Staple one side of the plastic all the way up. Then start putting in the batt starting at the bottom and staple the other side as you go. Maybe staple up a couple feet and slip it in and then continue. Not the fastest thing, but it should work.

 

[Highbeam]

Just set down with the roll of 15" wide stuff and cut a bunch of 24" long bricks. They should hold themselves in place that way. This may sound crazy but so does insulating a 24" cavity with 15" batts.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Just set down with the roll of 15" wide stuff and cut a bunch of 24" long bricks. They should hold themselves in place that way. This may sound crazy but so does insulating a 24" cavity with 15" batts.

Hey, thats a great idea...LOL. Doesnt sound crazy..IMO not as crazy as the SAME stuff, same brand, same store being 88 cents a sq foot in 23" wide, 38 cents a Sq/ft in 15" wide. The same holds true for both the big boxes.

For the heck of it, I had asked the pro-desk if they could get 23" wide unfaced like the 15" wide stuff for same price per square..he said he would think so, after a couple clicks on his computer he was just as amazed as me at the price difference on the "Same Stuff"

If I were insulating a house this wouldnt even be an option, I'd get the right stuff. But its just a garage that I'll only heat when I need to work in it, so realistically that means a couple hours from time to time at night, and MAYBE 5-6 hours during a weekend if I got a big project to do. If its THAT cold, I'll probably go tinker in my basement workshop....

 

[PCO6]

So is it even worth using a vapor barrier at all? YES - you want to keep the hot air (vapour) in

My problem with no barrier isnt coming back and putting a sheet of plastic...thats easy & simple enough, its holding the insulation up while I'm installing it and get to strapping it. I'm planning on using the 15" wide rolls of R30 which is unfaced in my 24" OC trusses. beauty of the facing is I can just staple it up...I was hoping for a 24" wide paper I could staple up as I work along...hold the insulation up and be a vapor barrier.

I had an attic floor already installed over my joists. I put the insulation batts into place then stapled duct tape to the underside of the joists to keep it in place before installing the vapour barrier.

 

[Steevo]

I had an attic floor already installed over my joists. I put the insulation batts into place then stapled duct tape to the underside of the joists to keep it in place before installing the vapour barrier.

I have used this method also. Saves the cost of those silly wires they use to hold bats in place. Duct tape rules!

 

[Highbeam]

My throat is itching just looking at those overhead batts. Putting them up must have been fun. Your neck gets sweaty and all the FG shards stick to it.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

I've been putting up Certainteed batts....crazy awful stuff... in the walls I've got some of the Owens Corning Pink stuff from Home Depot, and that stuff is cottony soft...wonderful stuff...

 

[PCO6]

I have used this method also. Saves the cost of those silly wires they use to hold bats in place. Duct tape rules!

I learned that from my fellow countryman Red Green.

My throat is itching just looking at those overhead batts. Putting them up must have been fun. Your neck gets sweaty and all the FG shards stick to it.

I had no problems at all putting it up which surprised me. Fibreglass insulation must have improved over the years. Either that or I got imunned to it.

 

[PCO6]

I've been putting up Certainteed batts....crazy awful stuff... in the walls I've got some of the Owens Corning Pink stuff from Home Depot, and that stuff is cottony soft...wonderful stuff...

Be careful with that. Next thing you know they'll be using it in Cottonelle commercials. I've never understood the ones they have now. Are they comparing Cottonelle toilet paper to cats or suggesting you wipe you **** with little white kittens? It's confusing.

 

[Motofixxer]

Staple up some string that zigzags between the trusses.