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KRL Modularity Question, Help Appreciated

jride200

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Mar 15, 2010
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I'm currently in the process of shopping for a new tool box. I have narrowed it down between the KRL722A and the KRL756B. Unfortunately, though, the KRL722A would somewhat strain my budget.

So... I'm wondering, if I buy a KRL756B, could I, at some later point in my career, USING GENUINE SO PARTS, attach a 2nd KRL756B to the side of my original? I'm not interested in attaching the two boxes together using sheetmetal screws or other DIY methods. In other words, has SO engineered "modularity" into these two boxes using some combination of SO parts?

Thanks in advance.
 
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jride200

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On a related matter, I'd appreciate any leads on a KRL722A, but only a gloss black model in VERY good condition, and at what I believe to be a reasonable price (< approx. $2600). I'm currently located in the inter-mountain west, but will be traveling to San Diego for Thanksgiving and to St. Louis for Christmas and could pick a box up anywhere along these routes.
 

Flash21

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Jul 23, 2008
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jride200 - No, as far as I know, Snap-On doesn't engineer two 'base' boxes to bolt together in the way you describe.

I think you can find a very nice example of a KRL722A for ~$2000. There was a special through Snap-On on that box not too long ago, brand new, for $3000...not sure if it is still going on or if it was limited time only.
 

Vinko

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jride200 - No, as far as I know, Snap-On doesn't engineer two 'base' boxes to bolt together in the way you describe.

I think you can find a very nice example of a KRL722A for ~$2000. There was a special through Snap-On on that box not too long ago, brand new, for $3000...not sure if it is still going on or if it was limited time only.

What do you think the actual dealer cost on that $3000 was?
 

back2class

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What could possibly be the advantage of bolting together 2 boxes side by side? Seems like it would have every advantage to keep them seperate.
 

00S4Boy

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What could possibly be the advantage of bolting together 2 boxes side by side? Seems like it would have every advantage to keep them seperate.

I dunno but I think 2 boxes bolted together is pure awesomeness. I actually think mine are spot welded.
 

wreckercologist

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jride200 - No, as far as I know, Snap-On doesn't engineer two 'base' boxes to bolt together in the way you describe.

^^^I would generally agree with this currently.^^^

In years past, before mega-mondo-condo toolboxes, it was fairly common to join two roll cabs together. Snappy offered a kit (KRA-403) called a "roll cab joiner set" in the mid sixties. The kit consisted of two plates shaped like this:

____^_____except upside down.

You removed the two castors on each box that would be facing each other and bolted this plate in their place. I suppose you could do the same or something similar but should the boxes ever crack or pop welds, you'll be SOL with the warranty (I would assume). Perhaps Chad or Shawn could offer advise on this.

:beer:
 

ChiffChiff

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So you can build up to something like this??? :lol_hitti

44776_1603349371960_1482898389_1578529_3757809_n.jpg
 
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jride200

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Perhaps Chad or Shawn could offer advise on this.

Yes, I hope that one of these fellas chimes in; we're so lucky to have them around. Appreciate the responses thus far. Here's my reasoning... the KRL722 stretches my budget and I don't altogether need that much storage room, at not least yet. So, it occurred to me that two smaller KRL boxes could be married together, when my finances allow and when my storage needs require it. (Incidentally two of the smaller KRL roll cabs would be significantly larger than the KRL722, for close to the same price.)
 

glenmore

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On a related matter, I'd appreciate any leads on a KRL722A, but only a gloss black model in VERY good condition, and at what I believe to be a reasonable price (< approx. $2600). I'm currently located in the inter-mountain west, but will be traveling to San Diego for Thanksgiving and to St. Louis for Christmas and could pick a box up anywhere along these routes.


Lookie here:

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/tls/1950950727.html

Here's another one. Sez only a year old, AND a stainless steel top!

http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/tls/1933694342.html
 
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jride200

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Bump... Impatience.

Would really like to get a response from one of our resident SO dealers.

Thanks in advance.
 

mrshaun

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you wold not be able to turn the box. only roll straight.
you would have to out fit it with a hanger like a side cab and remove the wheels then it would swing wide when you tried to move it at an angle.
just get a kra2418 and call it a day.

or order the krsc46apc and then find you a used 722 in black.
 

crewchief888

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i remember back in the 80's MAC and matco had kits to connect 2 roller cabs, never remember seeing anything from SO.


:beer:
 

mrholeshot

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You could build the plate from 1/4 steel plate to bolt up where the casters bolt up. Then cut some 1/4 steel plate to make the connectors Make then about 1.5 inches tall and weld it at a 90 degree angle to give it lots of support. Take some masking tape and put about three strips down the side of one box where they meet(saves the paint) You would have to do this with the boxes upside down on level concrete.Remove the center casters. Bolt the plates down and set the connectors with box in place. After you weld up the supports that connect the boxes ttake them off and paint them. Then Bolt the connectors back up connecting both boxes. Roll both boxes in one motion back on the wheels. At the top of the box where the edge lip is put three small machine screws through the joining lip. (no weight there). then put the rubber cover back on.
 

mrholeshot

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Mac had a kit to connect two 900 or 500 cabs together. was about 120 for the kit
 

Zebu Fellenz

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I would think the best way to do this would be to go to your local welding shop and have them fabricate a rolling base that the two cabinets could be bolted on, this would put no extra stresses on the cabinets and shouldn't cause you any possible warranty problems as the only modification would be the removal of the casters.

Something like Caper posted would work well though I'm not sure if you would need the whole floor, if you support the cabinets well where the casters were you should be fine as far as strength is concerned.

Erik
 
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