Krown rust protection & lube can... Any users?

[rword]

Ordered up some of this product because I've heard it's very good. Anyone here used lately?

 

[Jay870]

Krown is supposed to be good stuff. I know there are members here who use it or have it done at a shop. I have no experience with it but looks like it would be particularly good for cavities and seams because it is so thin.

I use Corrosion-X stuff for rust prevention at least in part because I like the selection viscosities they offer, there are definitely places where thin & runny is an advantage and others where thick and clingy is an advantage.

I think undercoating is one of those things where picking something and keeping up on it is way more important than the specific product you're using (with a few exceptions).

 

[Callelle]

I was not happy with Krown when I undercoated my truck. 1 winter and it seemed like it had mostly been blown away. The following year I decided to use black fluid film, and I was much happier with that. It looks a lot nicer, doesn't just blow away with road spray, and if I want to work on it and not deal, a few trips through a car wash and the hot water can have it clear.

 

[mreisner]

I was not happy with Krown when I undercoated my truck. 1 winter and it seemed like it had mostly been blown away. The following year I decided to use black fluid film, and I was much happier with that. It looks a lot nicer, doesn't just blow away with road spray, and if I want to work on it and not deal, a few trips through a car wash and the hot water can have it clear.

Krown isn't permanent, it needs to be reapplied every year.

 

[Callelle]

Krown isn't permanent, it needs to be reapplied every year.

As does fluid film. My point is how quick it washed away, I probably had a good 2-3 months before the frame rail looked dry on warmer days.

 

[Denwood]

Krown washes off quickly, and application thoroughness is spotty at best, at least in my experience. Rust Check (common in Canada) washes off easily as well, although yearly application of their thicker product "Coat and Protect" holds up better. I gave up on having someone else apply anything as time and time again they missed large areas. Basically anything they can't see underneath does not get touched. Cavity spraying tools etc. are relatively cheap to purchase for DIY application. All of the products are pretty messy, but Noxudol 300/700 is my favourite as it doesn't drip a lot.

I don't use Fluid Film or Woolwax (lanolin based products) as they are not kind to rubber long term. Otherwise, with yearly application, they do work. They are pretty idiot proof to apply for prep, but you do need to avoid rubber trim, harness connections, bushings. I use FF on my snowblower because it's cheap for summer storage. PB Blaster Surface shield is a blend of lanolin (and apparently petroleum jelly) which gives it better wash off resistance.

I'm using Noxudol 300/700 on our vehicles. It firms up to a wax consistency 4-5 days after application, has zero solvents, and integrates chemicals which react with rust. On a new vehicle these two products are excellent. 700 goes inside panels for high creep, 300 on the chassis for better wear. On existing rust, adhesion with 300 can be an issue if your prep is not spot on. They are fine for electrical connections, rubber etc. which makes them a better choice IMHO, particularly for EVs. I use about 1 litre on average per year for touch ups with the Noxudol 300 on high wash areas on the car bodies behind the front wheels and immediately front/behind the rear wheels.

I've not used Waxoyl Hard Wax Plus (for exposed chassis) but I would like to try it as they has a similar additive package as Noxudol (based on MSDS) but adds 1-3% phosphoric acid which bodes well for reacting with existing rust. It's expensive though, at $290 CAD or so for 5 litres. The non-aerosol product MSDS is here: https://www.waxoyl-usa.com/assets/pdf/Hardwax_Plus.pdf Note that the aerosol product omits the phosphoric acid but still has sulphonic acids and calcium salts. You want these for reaction with existing rust...

I can find zero evidence of Krown, Rust Check, FF, Corrosion Free etc. containing anything that actually reacts with or actively slow rust....they are just water displacers. I think the franchises like them because they don't need much for prep. Been testing all this stuff here in the salt belt for the last 35 years or so. Noxudol has been spec'd by Toyota and a few other OEMS in their frame replace/repair compaigns.

 

[scooby074]

We applied Krown by the pail to snowplows for corrosion protection. Its a good product.

 

[mikedodge]

Its a pretty common subject every year around this time.

I use Rust Check. The thicker stuff they have for under body is better and it'll holds up better inside fenders and places like that when you have parts off.

 

[d.mcfarland]

In my experience Krown does noticeably better on a new car vs a kind of rusty car. You would think it would stick to the rust great, but I have found that the lanolin products do better on already rust stuff. However, it's a catch 22 because the thicker products aren't sprayed the same and do not creep as much as the thinner products like Krown. When the Krown is applied it's practically a mist. I believe it is heated and then applied with pressurized air meaning it will blow into areas that the lanolin applications just don't hit.

 

[AldeanFan]

I’ve had krown sprayed on my 2005 tundra since new and it is rust free after 20 Canadian winters.

 

[Two Speed]

I'm a Krown user, but their formula has changed some time back to be "environmentally friendly". Well, we know how that ends up, it doesn't stick around nearly as good as it originally did. The original stuff stuck, I'd be dripping throughout the following summer. Now I'm lucky if I drip beyond a couple weeks. As Denwood mentioned, Rust Check isn't any better. Used to use that way back in the day before Krown was a thing around here, and even the "drip" formula was tacky and stayed around for a while.

The Krown in a can, never liked it. Seemed to be more solvent than rust preventer and I've found things to be heavily surface rusted after using krown in a can.

For spray can use I much prefer Fluid Film. It at least hangs around and does keep rust in check.

 

[mikedodge]

In my experience Krown does noticeably better on a new car vs a kind of rusty car. You would think it would stick to the rust great, but I have found that the lanolin products do better on already rust stuff. However, it's a catch 22 because the thicker products aren't sprayed the same and do not creep as much as the thinner products like Krown. When the Krown is applied it's practically a mist. I believe it is heated and then applied with pressurized air meaning it will blow into areas that the lanolin applications just don't hit.

No they shoot Krown straight on, no heating.

The thicker under body stuff creeps but not as much as the regular stuff. It's meant to not wash off as easily as the thun stuff does.

 

[Jazz1]

I was spraying RustCheck on a 2023 Subaru last week. Good thing considering the rust bleeding through paint on chassis
The Subaru also has plastic panels covering 70% of the underside of vehicle which will trap road salt and debris. I did not remove the panels as that would be extra charge as I told the owner

 

[d.mcfarland]

The thicker under body stuff creeps but not as much as the regular stuff. It's meant to not wash off as easily as the thun stuff does.

I think you're confused. Krown is a petroleum based product and the "thicker" rust preventative sprays are typically lanolin based like Fluid Film.

 

[Upstater57]

I have used Krown for years. After the initial "oiling" the vehicles go in every year for a tune up. My oldest vehicle is 8 years old and shows no signs of rust. I live where liquid salt is put on the roads.

What I like best about the product is that it seeps into everything and is sprayed on everything but the muffler.

 

[Burt Shaver]

I used to have my vehicles Krowned every fall but I was always disappointed that a month or 2 later they looked dry, maybe not an issue and it was doing what it was supposed to but in my mind it was gone and not doing anything so I tried Canadian tire, they use corrosion free. I was very impressed with the product so I bought a wool wax sprayer and a pail of the corrosion free last fall and sprayed them myself. Seems to last the whole year.

 

[mikedodge]

I think you're confused. Krown is a petroleum based product and the "thicker" rust preventative sprays are typically lanolin based like Fluid Film.

I think you're the one that's confused.

Krown is thin. They don't heat it. Its applied like most other rust proofing and under coating products.

There are thicker rust proofing products that are still like Krown, they don't creep aswell but last longer on under body and areas where they don't need to creep as much.