To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Kudos to Armorpoxy

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,243
Location
Maryland
I finally put down the armorpoxy I purchased in the sale last Thanksgiving! Got this done over 3 days from Sept 20-22. Whew! And it looks fantastic! The first photo is before the epoxy. The concrete was poured in 2008 and has been lightly used. Between then and now, I went wild with electric, insulated the entire place, had drywall done, painted the entire thing put in heat and 2 mini splits....lots of work. I did it all except for the drywall. Did not want to do 2 floors of drywall. Painting was tough enough! Thank God for 18" rollers!

Back to the epoxy. First, I scraped all spots that needed it and pressure washed the entire place. (The spinning attachment that is made for floors and keeps overspray from hitting everything is a great add-on - got it at HD and is great for decks and concrete sidewalks). Then I used krud kutter on a few oil spills. Then TSP to neutralize them. Then the muriatic solution supplied with the armorpoxy kit. All this did a great job of cleaning up the floor. I was surprised how long it took to really dry - I let it sit about 10 days. It would be better if it sat for 2-3 weeks to really dry out.

This garage is a 32 x 28 but with 2x6 walls it ends up being 31x27 inside. I bought a 600 ft^2 kit plus an add-on kit so this is supposed to be good for 900 ft^2. I got light grey and bought the primer (2 part armorpoxy 2), the top coat (armor ultra) and I upgraded to the 2 part commercial/military clear coat. So all 3 layers were 2 part epoxies. And the clear came with ultra wear non-skid additive.

The primer was grey and went on easily. I used 18" epoxy glide (wooster from Amazon) rollers for all my applications. I used 2 brushes in all - one for the primer and one for the top coat. Since I'm putting baseboard trim up, I didn't need to go all the way to the edge. A tip - I bought 9 homer Home Depot 5 gallon pails and used 7 of them. Also I went through about 4 of the rollers. You should have a short and long painting pole. I have thin liners for the 18" roller plan and used 3 of these. You'll also definitely want a good respirator. I have all these supplies already; I don't like breathing toxic fumes!

Day 1: The primer set up pretty quickly but I had about an hour of work time with it. I had a fair amount - close to a gallon - left over. The primer was setting up within about 3 to 4 hours after application. Day 2: I expected the top coat to have shorter working time (like 30-45 minutes) and so I split it into 3 even amounts (HD 5 gallon cans) and did 1/3 of the garage at a time. This is when you definitely need the spike shoes (which I also had purchased from Armorpoxy).

This gave me a much greater appreciation for our women! Wearing those spiked shoes was weird! You need to lift your straight feet up or you can easily slide. So I was throwing the chips (yes, straight up so they fall down evenly like rain....I should have practiced because there are definitely some heavy spots...) and noticed what looked like 1/4-20 nuts on the floor. After I found 3 of these and then what looked like a nail/spike I realized the spiked shoes were "falling" apart. Before I realized this I was annoyed at Armorpoxy for mixing nuts in the chips....nope - my fault. I put the spike back in the one shoe and tightened all the nuts (HINT - do this BEFORE starting the job!) Also, adjust the spiked shoes rather tightly on your shoes so they stay on.

I did not use a squeegee at all and just used the rollers to spread all 3 layers around and this approach worked very well.

So by the time I finished the color coat or armor ultra it was probably 3 hours at least since starting and it was not setting up! I was sweating! But by the evening and definitely the next morning all was ok and it was walkable. The weather was great and clear and about 75 to 80F in the mornings when I did the work.

Day 3: The clear coat was easy to apply and what surprised me was that the non skid additive looked more like powder than a grit like sand. But it worked perfectly and gave a non skid surface that is not abrasive to the touch.

The amount I purchased was perfect. I used all the color coat with just a little left over. The same with the clear coat.

It gave an absolutely beautiful result! The clear coat looks so glossy and smooth that it looks like it is still wet.

The second through fifth photos are before the clear coat. The last two are after the clear coat. I highly recommend Armorpoxy!

I was a bit concerned about doing a good job but it is definitely doable for anyone. If this 67 year old can do it by himself, anyone can!

Tom
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0859.jpg
    IMG_0859.jpg
    136.6 KB · Views: 245
  • IMG_0873.jpg
    IMG_0873.jpg
    146.8 KB · Views: 226
  • IMG_0874.jpg
    IMG_0874.jpg
    146.9 KB · Views: 227
  • IMG_0879.jpg
    IMG_0879.jpg
    140.5 KB · Views: 238
  • IMG_0881.jpg
    IMG_0881.jpg
    124.8 KB · Views: 253
  • IMG_0890.jpg
    IMG_0890.jpg
    134.8 KB · Views: 239
  • IMG_0897.jpg
    IMG_0897.jpg
    146.7 KB · Views: 272
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

SuperCat

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 6, 2012
Messages
1,100
Location
Sacramento, CA
Wow! What an upgrade to your garage! :thumbup:
Nice lift, I'm jealous. What kind of projects do you work on in your shop?
 
OP
T

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,243
Location
Maryland
Hmmm - pounds of flakes....don't really know, as I put down all that came with my armorpoxy kit. I believe I ordered medium broadcast. THe order goes back to last November.

And what kind of projects? well, none now. I'm preparing for retirement fun. I'm yearning to get back to British sports car work. I've owned a few Triumph TR250's and a TR6 that I restored. I'm looking for a decent Tr250 or Gt6. I did all the paint and body work on the TR6...I think I'll sub out the paint the next time. I did the engine, and all mechanicals, seats, wood dash, etc on the TR6. But it's long since been sold.

Kinda crazy....should have had a shop like this years ago. The problem is with most of us that we can't afford it when we're young and really need it! I am just determined to have a great place to work. Almost there!!

Tom
 

biggziff

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2015
Messages
623
Location
Upstate NY
Looks great, but I have to ask are the flakes sticking up a bit above the floor? It looks as if they're standing "proud" and would be an impediment to a broom, etc.
 

Eliteconcept

Active member
Joined
Jun 3, 2017
Messages
26
Location
NW Indiana
looks great. hope mine turns out that good. Just ordered my kit a little while ago. Planning to put down next weekend. Any additional tips outside what you already stated? I did epoxy-coat in my old garage about 5 years ago. Just wanted a refresher from someone who just did it
 
OP
T

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,243
Location
Maryland
The flakes pretty much embedded into the armorclad. Then the clear almost totally covered them. It leaves the floor with a lightly bumpy texture which is good for anti-skid along the the anti-skid additive. I am super-pleased with the result. A couple of things I could have done better:

1) Put the armorclad II down a little thicker. It totally covered the floor but I ended up having almost a gallon left over.

2) Done a slightly better job of throwing the chips. There are areas of heavier coverage than other areas.

I would definitely recommend the 3 layer approach and am very happy I upgraded to the commercial/military clearcoat.

Tom
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Joined
May 19, 2014
Messages
16
Great result OP!! looks awesome. If you don't mind me asking, what color and flake color did you go with? thanks
 

biggziff

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2015
Messages
623
Location
Upstate NY
The flakes pretty much embedded into the armorclad. Then the clear almost totally covered them. It leaves the floor with a lightly bumpy texture which is good for anti-skid along the the anti-skid additive. I am super-pleased with the result. A couple of things I could have done better:
Tom

I'd like to hear from Armorpoxy on this. I do not want a bumpy floor so is there a technique to be used to prevent this? A friend and I are both building large garages and are leaning towards this product, but a bumpy floor would be a deal breaker for us.

thanks
 

Toomanytools?

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
855
Location
Washington
If your doing flake the only way to reduce the bumpy effect is more topcoats, but even then I think it will still have some. You can scrape the flake once it has time to set up before top coating to help level it.
 

Armorpoxy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
3,735
Location
NJ
Hi
The textured fleck surface is normal and to be expected. Sealing with topcoat helps to smooth this out, but still the floor may be too textured for you. The way around this is you should add on top of the flecks a coat of 100% solids UV protected clear epoxy, and then topcoat that. (We carry these)

Alternately you can put on top of the flecked floor 2 coats of our non-yellowing Spartacote and the floor should be fine.

Some other tips to get a smoother floor.
1. Use smaller flecks (1/8")
2. Make sure to broadcast in the flecks quickly as you go. The more the epoxy starts to set up the less they will 'sink' into it.
3. Run a flat floor scraper over the flecks before you topcoat. This knocks off any 'high spots' before you topcoat

We really never get complaints that the floor is too rough from the flecks.
 

Brian H.

New member
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
3
Location
New Oxford, PA
I concur with Tom as I wish I would have either threw the flecks up in the air more or not used all of them. I have some heavy areas as well but overall the garage floor looks good.
 

Armorpoxy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
3,735
Location
NJ
Hint...for all of you novice 'fleckers' out there, before flecking your floor lay out a clear plastic tarp and practice throwing the flecks up in the air to get the hang of it and see how the rain down. Then it's easy to gather them up and use them. And you can practice over and over. Always throw flecks up like a 'softball pitch' so they go up and trickle down, as opposed to throwing them down on the floor as they can clump that way.

Another hint separate the flecks into halves or quarters into smaller containers or bags and use the accordingly for each section so you don't have too much or too few at the end of the project.
 
Last edited:

AP514

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Messages
768
Location
Pearland, Tx
Great tip about the Fleck practice..

I wish I had the money to do my garage....26 x 57 inside.

Just do not have the Green for that......I figure about $3,300..

I can still dream and drool over others that have this...sigh
 

Armorpoxy

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
3,735
Location
NJ
You can do your floor with the Armorclad 3 layer system for about a buck a foot, half of what you noted above...
 
OP
T

thammel

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 3, 2005
Messages
2,243
Location
Maryland
I went with the medium gray that was offered in the sale last November. As I was sitting out in the garage tonight (it's so nice that I just go out and sit on the epoxied floor!), I was thinking that if I had to do it over, I might go with 2 coats of the military/commercial clear topcoat. The first one I'd put down without any anti-skid and the second would have anti-skid. The clear coat is really nice and two coats would cover the chips a little more fully.

Tom
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom