L-Shape Hex Key Sets Recommendation

[sneakyt]

I'm building a toolkit for bike maintenance and I'd like to build one that I'll last, preferably forever . Been looking at Wera, Wiha and Bondhus for an L-shape hex key set, seem like they're top notch. I have held the Bondhus in my hand but have no personal experience with Wera and Wiha.

This Wera set caught my eyes but don't know much else about them. Plus I worry about activating the warranty since they're located in Germany. http://chadstoolbox.com/05022088001wera950spkl9smn9pchexpluskeysetmetric.aspx

Can you guys recommend a metric set of hex keys? Thank you and I'm glad I found this forum.

 

[Teken]

All 3 brands you just listed will meet your needs and beyond . . . I would offer to you that where ever you can get the most value from what ever vendor is the key factor . . .

The things I look for is human ergonomics, in that the said tool should fit in your hand as natural as a glove. This is what you pay for from Japanese, and German companies as they have a lot of forsight in producing tools that simply look amazing!

But, more importantly they lay in your hand well, with out fatigue, and wear well in long term use . . .

The only thing other to consider is if you plan on using these tools in a more demanding environment where higher torque values are present and that will reflect in the higher costs as when torque / leverage is key.

The smaller L shaped tools often tend to bend or wear out quicker in the same work environment . . .

 

[The Muffin Man]

Welcome to the Forums!

I have the two sets by Facom (links below) that I keep in my backpack while dirtbiking. The keys are phosphate finished which seems to hold up much better than the more common black-oxide finished.

Extra-Long ball end

Standard length

 

[MarcSeattle]

I have L-keys, t-handles, screwdrivers, and sockets for allen heads and these work the best for me on the low-torque stuff. Someone posted that they are on sale now at Sears.

http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/bit_sockets/hex/setdetails.jsp?part=82411

 

[Stuart in MN]

Bondhus are good quality, plus they're made in Minnesota which is a nice thing.

 

[Teken]

I have L-keys, t-handles, screwdrivers, and sockets for allen heads and these work the best for me on the low-torque stuff. Someone posted that they are on sale now at Sears.

http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/bit_sockets/hex/setdetails.jsp?part=82411

Every time you post that picture its:

 

[hoonjr]

I got these on sale and I've been pretty happy with them.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945152000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

Ideally I'd prefer the set below with the magic ring ball end.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=20905&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[hammergodthor]

I'm building a toolkit for bike maintenance and I'd like to build one that I'll last, preferably forever . Been looking at Wera, Wiha and Bondhus for an L-shape hex key set, seem like they're top notch. I have held the Bondhus in my hand but have no personal experience with Wera and Wiha.

This Wera set caught my eyes but don't know much else about them. Plus I worry about activating the warranty since they're located in Germany. http://chadstoolbox.com/05022088001wera950spkl9smn9pchexpluskeysetmetric.aspx

Can you guys recommend a metric set of hex keys? Thank you and I'm glad I found this forum.

In my previous life, I was a professional bike mechanic for about 10 years. Allen, Bohndus, Park Tools and Pedro's are all good brands, even though Pedro's are Taiwan.

Get yourself a couple 3-ways or y wrenches:
4,5,6mm
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=7&item=AWS-1#
2,2.5,3mm
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=7&item=AWS-3

DON'T BUY THE BALL ENDS!!! (They round off super easy)

And a set of these:
http://www.rcsuperstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BON10999&click=2
Don't buy Crapsman brand allen wrenches, they really are ****. I would stick with standard US made tools for starting out, they really can take heavy use. Make sure they have a ball end on one end for water bottle cage bolts - trust me.

You'll aso need cone wrenches:
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=18&item=SCW-SET
Personally, I don't like Pedro's cone wrenches, they flex sideways under extreme pressure and pop off and go flying.

Better yet, get this set:
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=6&item=AK-37#

Eventually you'll need most of that stuff, I don't like the other sets for people starting out. You don't really need some of the stuff in Park's other sets, that set is the best set if you don't have much yet.

The professional set would be nice, but pricey, and you really don't need a headset press. (Threaded rod and washers for on-the-cheap)

Park Tools are excellent tools, they have a great warranty and really do take care of their customers. I have called them numerous times with warranty issues, and they are great. US made too! (Years of shop use tends to be hard on tools)

If you're working on disc brakes, buy a heavy duty removal t25 from Snap-On, it'll outlast every other t25 about 5 to one.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=&item_ID=1341&group_ID=158&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog


I could go on and on, but enough for now.

 

[caseyjw]

Bondhus gorilla proof are great, also Wiha is good... Wera makes a standard set but it's rather awkward.. I always grab for the Bondhus ball-end gorilla proofs first... and the screwdriver handled magic ring wiha's second.

 

[MarcSeattle]

The problem with the Bondhus t-handles is that they flex torsionally. I'm always worried about breaking them. Plus they take a lot of room in a toolbox.

 

[MarcSeattle]

Make sure they have a ball end on one end for water bottle cage bolts - trust me.

The flex L-keys are perfect for this.

 

[Monte]

 

[Robertob]

Every time you post that picture its:

Got one on clearance yesterday. You can stop drooling - about 1/2 of them are bent like bananas. I plan on calling and complaining to Danaher if they care.

 

[Teken]

Got one on clearance yesterday. You can stop drooling - about 1/2 of them are bent like bananas. I plan on calling and complaining to Danaher if they care.

Pictures my good man . . . Details as to what the job was and what and how it happend . . .

 

[Robertob]

And a set of these:
http://www.rcsuperstore.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BON10999&click=2
Don't buy Crapsman brand allen wrenches, they really are ****. I would stick with standard US made tools for starting out, they really can take heavy use. Make sure they have a ball end on one end for water bottle cage bolts - trust me.

I'm pretty sure the craftsman ones are Allen OEM, or at least one version is. The plastic holder and the shape of the ball ends is EXACTLY the same as the Allen branded set.

http://www.sears.com:80/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946755000P?prdNo=9&blockNo=9&blockType=

I'm pretty happy with the set I bought a few years ago. Just warrantied it because the 4/5/6mm sizes were worn out. Of course I had to turn in the whole set which is terribly wasteful.

The C-man T-handles are OEM Allen too, as far as I can tell. I have a set without ball ends but they don't make that style any more. Have not seen what they would swap me for them, the tips are worn out already.

I just ordered a set of the Beta chrome sliding ones from ebay.uk to replace them.

 

[Robertob]

Pictures my good man . . . Details as to what the job was and what and how it happend . . .

No job, straight out of the package!

 

[phi2039]

Got one on clearance yesterday. You can stop drooling - about 1/2 of them are bent like bananas. I plan on calling and complaining to Danaher if they care.

We do care, and I would be happy to help make it right. Where did you get them?

 

[phi2039]

I would also recommend these little gems: Allen Magnetic Hex Keys ( I am biased, ofc).

They really help with fasteners in tight spaces.

 

[Mickey O]

Bondhus or Eklind.

 

[bonneyman]

I've heard about Hex-Plus. Those look nice!

 

[Robertob]

We do care, and I would be happy to help make it right. Where did you get them?

Sears on clearance. The 10mm,8mm,6mm are all bent. I called customer service and they sent me to Fastenal.

 

[mrb]

+1 for Eklind. Great quality, made in USA, and small family (or something) owned company.

 

[arkangel06]

Bondhus are awesome.

 

[Monte]

Does the Eklind keys have chamfered edges now ?? Mine doesn`t

 

[Indy_500]

My dad has bondhus and those things are built pretty well. I have some cheap HF ones and they actually seem pretty strong so far, i'll see how long they last.

 

[rsanter]

I have a couple of snap on sets available if your interested

bob

 

[Mule]

This is the SAE Wera SPKL set. I've used it for over two years now with a great deal of success. So, I recommend it for your needs, whether they be SAE or mm.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I'd say Wiha, Wera or PB Swiss.

If cost is not an issue, PB Swiss.

 

[Vinko]

So many good ones. LIke others, I've been pleased with the Bondhus both in black ox and in the coated version. The Facom are good.

I've got some German-made stuff from samstagsales.com at a reasonable price and they were really nicely finished.

I have some Allen that are T-handled that are good, though starting to show a little wear after three or four years of constant use in a production environment. Not surprising though I suppose.

I'd get some PB Swiss if I had to do it all over again.

 

[Thedroid]

I think Bonhus is the toughest that I have used, but the plated ones seem to fit a bit too tight sometimes.

 

[sneakyt]

Thank you all for your replies. I do agree with Teken for that a "tool should fit in your hand as natural as a glove." That's why I've been leaning toward the Wera L hex set more. For those (Monte) that use the Wera's, what do you like about it compare to other sets?

Thanks hammerthorgod for the tool list. I do have some Park Tool (master chain tool and spoke wrench). I do want to get the Park's shop cone wrenches but I want to see if there are other options. Can you guys recommend other options to this set (http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=18&item=SCW-SET)?

hammerthorgod, I thought for working on disc brake, a T-shape or an L-shape T25 is good enough. I didn't know I needed a a heavy duty removal t25 from Snap-On.

Moose-LandTran, why PB Swiss over Wiha or Wera?

Vinko, does the Bondhus coated ones feel better in your hand?

 

[Stuey]

PB Swiss are top-notch quality, that's why these guys are recommending it. But they're expensive.

Bondhus really are comfortable to work with, and are the most affordable of the others.

I'm quite fond of their T style hex wrenches.

A screwdriver style, or P/T handle hex keys are much faster to use than L keys, but take up more space, so you'll need both. T handles for the shop, L keys for the road.

Bondus makes Park Tool's hex keys and P wrenches.

 

[reptilezs]

PB Swiss are top-notch quality, that's why these guys are recommending it. But they're expensive.

Bondhus really are comfortable to work with, and are the most affordable of the others.

I'm quite fond of their T style hex wrenches.

A screwdriver style, or P/T handle hex keys are much faster to use than L keys, but take up more space, so you'll need both. T handles for the shop, L keys for the road.

Bondus makes Park Tool's hex keys and P wrenches.

t handles are slower for me unless the fastener has thread lock on it. L keys are much faster for me, especially if they have a ball end. hold the L like in a ice pick grip with the short end at the index/thumb. i break the fastener loose with the short end, flip to the ball end and twirl with my thumb/index. most common tools i use on the bikes are 3 way 4-5-6mm. 5mm L then the 5mm T last. 3 way for brake pads, rear derailleur cable pinch bolts, brake levers and stem. L for brake cable pinch bolts. t handle for front derailleur clamp. the x long metric L set from bondhus is about 12 bucks on amazon, cheap enough to replace when they wear out in a year at the shop.

 

[Stuey]

Hmm, I'll have to try using them that way. I usually find it a lot easier to spin T handles, but I'll try out your method a few times.

 

[Monte]

That's why I've been leaning toward the Wera L hex set more. For those (Monte) that use the Wera's, what do you like about it compare to other sets?

The Wera "Hex-Plus" hex keys have a different profile so i just wanted to try them out, i usually use socket drivers though, so i can´t comment if they really work or not on the long run, since i don´t have any problems with the regular hex style. (probably will depend also on which grade screw you work on e.g. grade 8.8 or 10.9 vs. 4.8 which will wear out faster, i only buy 8.8 or better)

 

[arkangel06]

I have some cheap HF ones and they actually seem pretty strong so far, i'll see how long they last.

They wouldn't last an hour in my shop.

 

[Mickey O]

Unbrako if you can find them.

 

[Thedroid]

The Bondhus coated feel real nice in hand. But like I was saying some times the fit is tight. Doesn't seem like they allow for the coating. Seems like they dip the standard size wrench and it makes it a little bigger.

 

[hammergodthor]

Thank you all for your replies. I do agree with Teken for that a "tool should fit in your hand as natural as a glove." That's why I've been leaning toward the Wera L hex set more. For those (Monte) that use the Wera's, what do you like about it compare to other sets?

Thanks hammerthorgod for the tool list. I do have some Park Tool (master chain tool and spoke wrench). I do want to get the Park's shop cone wrenches but I want to see if there are other options. Can you guys recommend other options to this set (http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=18&item=SCW-SET)?

hammerthorgod, I thought for working on disc brake, a T-shape or an L-shape T25 is good enough. I didn't know I needed a a heavy duty removal t25 from Snap-On.

Moose-LandTran, why PB Swiss over Wiha or Wera?

Vinko, does the Bondhus coated ones feel better in your hand?

Good luck with other cone wrench options. 90% of shops use Park cone wrenches, and the other 10% use Pedros cone wrenches with Park wrenches stuffed in a back drawer somewhere. You need specific wrenches for adjusting cones, cone wrenches are only 1.17mm wide. You'll find cone/spacer combinations where a 1.2 mm wrench is slightly too wide. Basically, newer bikes have wider hubs with more complex seals, necessitating thinner tools. Older bikes and Huffy's you can use a standard combo wrench on the back, but on more expensive bikes you need special tools, just like cars.

Probably about 15-18 years ago I remember using Hazet wrenches in a shop, but I don't remember much about them, they might not have been cone wrenches. I know I have seen/used a Hazet pedal wrench, but its been awhile.

You don't need a Snap-On T25, but I've broken so many others, I don't think they're worth it (for extreme situations). I had a Vermont American T25 that literally didn't last 2 bolts. I've broken VA, Crapsman, Lisle, and Park. I've twisted Crapsman, Eklind, and Bohdus. (Eklind and Bohdus are excellent, these are extreme situations here.) The bolts all come with blue or red loctite patches on them and are super tight from the factory. I've had to easy-out them before, after the head broke off. If they get cooked constantly from downhill runs, they can be a bear too. Watch your torque specs when re-installing them and normal torx wrenches will be fine for you and a handfull of bikes. When you fix everybody else's stuff you find all kinds of overtorqued/undertorqued/corroded/baked/stripped/rounded off stuff.

 

[rodm1]

These are a steal.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?...MKANO=253&PMKBNO=2153&PMPAGE=68&PARTPG=INLMPI