L3000 and AX25 - new concrete

[rebelranger]

Ok all, since I couldn't find this on the internet I'm going to post it here.

I have a new concrete shop, sub 1 year old, no usage. In the corner of said shop is a bathroom [unfinished]. This test is of the unfinished bathroom.

The main shop has Foundation Armor L3000 denisifer...not that one could tell. The bathroom does not. Regardless I want to get to a white floor for the whole shop. Thus the test.

On the left: L3000 mixed 3 parts water to 1 part L3000.
On the right: AX25 tinted white.

Goal is after 7 days I'll apply tinted AX25 over the L3000. That way I'll have denisifed and sealed white concrete for a reasonable cost.

Follow along....

 

[rebelranger]

Ok so 2nd coat of AX25 applied today. I'm not sold on this tinted sealer being backrolled, even with the sponge roller the roller marks don't dissappear. Any advice? I'll also ask foundationarmor.

The L3000 has cured... as you can tell almost no change to concrete after its application.

 

[rebelranger]

Well the AX25 is a dud when tinted. I've reached out to the company about this issue and they said put another coat on. Today I applied the third coat of AX25 on concrete without L3000 denisifer and the 1st coat over L3000 denisifer coated concrete. The photos tell show the disappointment.

I think I'm going to try Eagle Solid Color sealer. To see if it is in fact a true solid color sealer.

 

[Shea]

What you are applying is a tinted acrylic sealer. Many tinted acrylics are going to be somewhat translucent. In addition, they are also the thinnest of coatings to apply. This alone makes it difficult to get a solid color. Lastly, white is the most difficult color to get true white without the concrete color bleeding through. Even very thick 100% solids epoxy coatings that are white still require a white epoxy primer be applied first. This is why you are not happy with the results. Just to add perspective, a typical single coat of an acrylic will be 1.5-2.0 dry mils thickness, where as a 100% solids epoxy is 10-12 mils dry film thickness when applied with a roller.

I'm assuming your shop will see foot traffic only based on the sealer you have chosen? If so, Behr has a solid color acrylic that is available in white. They call it a stain (it's not).

https://www.behr.com/consumer/produ...ains/behr-premium-solid-color-concrete-stain/

I can't attest to how well it will work though based on the reasons stated above.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, above is right on, we don't think a sealer or thin mill will give a bright white floor. We do tons of white floors for galleries and hangars, and they always use white primer, white 100% solids epoxy, and white pigmented topcoat (since white epoxy can yellow from light).

Alternately white Polyaspartic would also work and we have supplied since they are non-yellowing.

Feel free to contact us at below with your project particulars (not PM please) for a quote if you go that route.

 

[rebelranger]

The shop is going to be a work shop. I do a bit of woodworking but mostly automotive and motorcycle. Things like an engine swap or custom metal bumpers is not uncommon.

I'm hoping with a densifier and then tinted sealer I'll prevent stains. I'm testing in the unfinished shop bathroom right now. However what you are saying maybe the downfall of white and I'll have to go to grey.

I got the Eagle tinted sealer and applied a coat yesterday. Eagle sealer is much thicker but isn't a pure white, it's very slightly off-white. I'll post photos tonight.

I really don't want to spend $1+to protect concrete. Hence these cheaper options I'm examining.

All the coats have been using sponge 1/4in roller.

 

[Shea]

The shop is going to be a work shop. I do a bit of woodworking but mostly automotive and motorcycle. Things like an engine swap or custom metal bumpers is not uncommon.

I would seriously think twice about using an acrylic coating for this type of work. It's the least durable of coatings to apply and will get seriously scratched up and worn looking in your work areas. It is designed mostly for foot traffic and garages where the most work that is done is to park the car and perform light maintenance.

If you don't want to spend the dollars for a coating to match the environment you plan to subject it to, then I would highly recommend staying with the bare concrete look and just apply a densifier combo that would include an oil repelling sealer. Otherwise, I think you are going to be in for a major disappointment.

The GhostShield 8510 and densifier combo has been popular with members here at the GJ. This article explains more about it.

Is GhostShield the Best Oil Repelling Garage Floor Sealer? | All Garage Floors

We review GhostShield Siloxa-Tec 8505 & 8510. Learn why this is an excellent concrete sealer for resisting oil & oil stains on your garage floor and driveway.

allgaragefloors.com

Another option that is not pricey and would protect the concrete from staining would be a modified polyurethane clear coat. It will not require further prep of the concrete to apply. CoverShield U140 is popular as well as TS210.

We Review TS210 Clear Polyurethane Garage Floor Sealer and Coating for Bare Concrete

Why TS210 may be the best no etching required, clear coating and sealer for bare concrete, workshops, and garage floors. We test for durability, oil stain resistance, and ease of application.

allgaragefloors.com

 

[rebelranger]

The eagle sealer is a thicker better coating but the color is a bit off. See the photos below.

 

[rebelranger]