Labeling NM-B/Romex Outside Panel

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Inside the panel I've been doing it like this picture. I figure it's easy, understandable --and if it's not to code, etc. I can always slide the jacket sections off. For white, yellow and orange jackets I've been using a black Sharpie. For black I've been using a white paint pen.

I'm using 3M cable stackers for some of the runs across the garage (up over 8-feet). For those runs I'd like to label the wires. It's neat, organized, etc. (no twists in the wires, each wire stays in same position in each stacker, etc.) but if anyone ever needs to trace down a wire run I think it would be nice to have labels every 6-feet (or so).

I have terrible handwriting. Is it kosher to use a label maker and stick labels to the Romex/nm-b along the runs? What is best practice for marking and labeling? I'd slide off the jackets inside the panel and replace them with something from a label maker too. Just want everything to be to code as well. (and not look like a total hack/homeowner job)

Thanks.

 

[PoorOwner]

I don't see any code for this,

I would go for label maker, 1/2" tall label, narrow font, abbreviations, make it small, put extra whitespace, and wrap it around the wire. I used to label some of the cords in my AV system, if you make them too big it looks not neat.

I bet you won't see professionals do this, you wouldn't want them to slowly type and spend an hour making labels, and they use tone generator to trace wires..

 

[Jim greengo]

I mark inside of boxes with a sharpie so I know what which wires are switch legs and h.r's when I come back to do finish work if I dont make things up before drywall gets done.

 

[ddawg16]

You can never have enough labels

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Thanks. I'm planning on marking inside of faceplates with circuit#. I hope the way I'm laying things out will be extremely easy (for an electrician or someone with a clue) to understand: lights are white and everything else is yellow. (or orange or black) I don't think there will be any switched receptacles so ANYTHING switched will be white. All single switched legs will be white /3 and all double switched legs will be white /2/2.

I think everything bigger than 12ga will all be /3 so looking at the receptacle (or breaker) and a label: "dryer", "car", "welder", "stove" will be obvious (again to an electrician or anyone with a clue). In trying to keep things neat and organized I realized that I've got all my white, yellow, orange and black wires grouped together. Looks nice but I figured having a reference label somewhat within line of sight means maybe a guy doesn't have to get down off a ladder and start all over again. Yes I know about sticking a 9V battery to one end and using your tongue to figure out what is what (tone generators)... I'm wiring the home and garage. Chances are (short term) I'll be the only one messing with the electrical wiring --but I'm sure there will come a day when we either sell or I just get old/lazy/too tired and I start writing checks.

I like the idea of using clear label tape with black ink for all the yellow/white/orange runs and I'll look for either white ink or I'll do white label tape with black ink for the black-jacket wires. I'm not trying to win an award for coolest looking wiring --if I get hit by a bus tomorrow I want the poor sucker who's going to have to deal with my mess not to curse at me.

 

[BigWarehouse]

Several years ago I bought an industrial label maker, I must have gone through a mile of label tape by now. It's amazing how useful they can be in the shop and with building things. The $20 type found at an office store will work, but if you spend ~$70-100 you can get a really nice industrial type that prints on large (and small) tape, with industrial adhesive and a nice laminate on top. Labels are nearly bomb proof! They don't come off in the weather, or in a hot dirty engine bay.

Every wire, pipe, and duct I come across get marked. Great for automotive work. Great for electrical work. Great for plumbing. Great for organizing. Just great in general! And now nearly everything I own has a little tag that says "property of" and my name and phone number.

I had no idea how useful it would be until I bought it.

 

[acer66]

BigWarehouse do you mind sharing what labeler you got?

 

[floridafarmer]

Acer,
I'll be happy to help you as this is the business I grew up in - ran a printer company for a number of years and still remain in the supply business (ribbons and labels). My company was Datamax but now it's part of Honeywell. The largest is Zebra and you have Sato right in NC.
There are hundreds and hundreds of resellers of these units all over the country and typically they have an assortment of older machines (trade-ins, etc) that you can find. You can occasionally find them also on Craigslist and Ebay.
I just checked local craigslist searching for "label printer" and 4 or 5 came up from 150 - to 600.00

https://lakeland.craigslist.org/for/d/lakeland-zebra-gk420t-usb-ethernet/6818721441.html

The brand you find is not as important as what "type" of printer. These printers are based on thermal (heat) technology and there are 2 basic types: Direct Thermal and Thermal Transfer. Direct thermal is what your retail receipt is printed on - there is a dye on the paper that when heated forms an image - this technology is not a durable as you know from you receipts that fade when exposed to heat and light.

The other version is called thermal transfer - same concept but there is a ribbon that goes between the thermal printhead and the label material and the image is transferred to the label. This technology is not affected by heat and light and there are many options for materials from paper to films that provide very durable performance.
So you want to find one that is thermal transfer - not direct thermal.

Just make sure the connection is USB - older machines came only with serial or parallel and not many computers offer those ports anymore.

As for the supplies - lots of options - many options on line, u-line carries some as do others and again, there are hundreds and hundreds of label companies located around the country and I can help get you started if you need it - have a trailer full of materials......


Good luck.

 

[Slowgsr]

Usually work off engineered prints, for circuits, distribution, etc. I label wires with number books, and neutrals get labeled with their corresponding circuits.

Then at the end of the job, things are balanced, and updated panel scheduled made (sleeves and typed diagrams). As built drawings are made, and all switch gear, motors, starters, transformers etc get lamacoids, and sometimes all outlets are labeled.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

Nothing wrong with labeling at the panel, I use a label maker outside the panel.

For labeling inside the panel, I prefer that the short piece of Romex sheathing be right where the wire meets the breaker.

I also like to label junction box covers and anywhere there's multiple runs of Romex away from the panel.

 

[mike93lx]

Why do you need to know a wire's use mid-run? How does it help?

 

[lakeroadster]

I thought having romex sheathing hanging inside a breaker box was against code?

 

[Radix2]

I don't see any value in labeling inside a panel. You label the breaker...the wire is attached, there is no confusion.

Mark the jacket when the wire is pulled, once finished to the breaker there is no need. If redoing panel, label with tape as they are removed. Unlikely panel is ever redone anyway.

 

[BigWarehouse]

BigWarehouse do you mind sharing what labeler you got?

I got a Brother P-touch (really, who came up with that name?!) PT-E300 about 4-5 years ago, I paid around $200. I don't think this is a current model anymore but you can get better ones now that have computer connectivity and print bigger labels for under $100. Look for them on Amazon. Mine prints up to 3/4" labels but most of the newer ones will do at least 1".

I suggest anything that uses the "TZe" style tape. This is thermal transfer with laminate and strong adhesive, available in many colors. I like this because I can use the Brother name brand tape for important things, and cheaper chinese tape available on ebay for not so important things.

 

[rlitman]

You can never have enough labels

Amen to that!

 

[Jim greengo]

I thought having romex sheathing hanging inside a breaker box was against code?

People have been doing that around here for a while I dont.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Why do you need to know a wire's use mid-run? How does it help?

Honestly once it's all wired and done it doesn't help much. Right now when wires are a ****-show and hanging everywhere, it'll help a bunch. It should all be protected and out of the way but later if something ever gets bumped, jacket torn, etc. it's nice to know what circuit you messed with.

I thought having romex sheathing hanging inside a breaker box was against code?

Possibly. There is a maximum amount of sheathing you are allowed to have inside any box past the connector/clamp but I think people tend to overlook small sections of sheathing for label purposes. If you look, the sheathing is cut back (to code) but then a little section is added on for the label. Is it against code --I have no clue. Possibly... Does it make life easier when you are in there working and have the cover off... yes. (in my opinion)

 

[PelicanPines]

I've been known to label things. Wires inside a box get numbers... then a sheet gets laminated as a key for the numbers.

 

[bczygan]

We label EVERYTHING!!!

 

[PelicanPines]

I labeled a few of my wife's body parts... then suddenly I got into a very heated pillow fight... It ended when I said wait... and labeled my pillow... and she stormed off.

For giggles I label stuff to see if she notices it. My new Brady Label machine prints labels that stick to frozen food really good... even ice cubes... doesn't work with crushed ice tho.

 

[alfredeneuman]

There is a maximum amount of sheathing you are allowed to have inside any box past the connector/clam

No there's not. Only a minimum length (1/4") to assure that the individual conductors aren't gripped by the clamp

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

No there's not. Only a minimum length (1/4") to assure that the individual conductors aren't gripped by the clamp

Should I go back and edit? I do not want to be posting bad info. Makes me look bad and someone else could take my bad post as fact.


I can't find 341.71(C). I see that it references 1/4" but is it moved or outdated? I was told 2" max by an inspector and I took it as fact. I assumed 2" plus 4" free = 6" which meets the 6" current requirement. That is also not correct, I believe there is no maximum, just minimum of 6" free cables (no sheathing), minimum of 1/4" sheathing (for protection entering the box) but I cannot find code rule to cite that. And anything over 12" long bumps your box fill numbers.

Is that a correct understanding? Where is the 1/4" reference in 2017?

 

[alfredeneuman]

314.17 (B) Metallic Boxes, and (C) Nonmetallic Boxes
Where nonmetallic-sheathed cable or multiconductor Type UF cable is used, the sheath shall extend not less than 6 mm (1∕4 in.) inside the box and beyond any cable clamp.

 

[rlitman]

...I was told 2" max by an inspector and I took it as fact...

He was probably thinking of it as a workmanship issue. It's bad form to leave the romex sheathed over a long length into the box, but I don't have any issues with what you did.

 

[PelicanPines]

He was probably thinking of it as a workmanship issue. It's bad form to leave the romex sheathed over a long length into the box, but I don't have any issues with what you did.

Fwiw.. keeping a short sheath is why i label with only a number... then using a sheet of paper as a fully described key.

 

[kaffine]

At work we use heat shrink labels but don't shrink them down. If we can't use heat shrink labels then we use self laminating labels. These have the label plus a long clear section that warps around the cable and over the label. This helps them stay on as it is completely wrapped around the cable and protects the label from having the lettering rub off.

The issue is it gets expensive we tend to spend over $100 on a job just for labels not including the labor.

I prefer using color codes when I can however that isn't always possible. When using labels I prefer having it say what it is. I hate wire numbers that have no meaning without the drawing or wire list. The drawing or wire list is never around after the initial install if it was even around then.