Laminate Countertops

[mdoolittle]

Wondering if anyone here has ever installed laminate on homemade countertop? I priced out 2 countertops. One was 30" X 96" ($150.11) The second was 30" X 132" ($284.46) It is going into my garage and I just can't justify that money for a couple of countertops.

I bought the laminate sheet and the contact cement and the roller for under $100. It seems pretty simple. Any tips or tricks on installing this stuff? Thanks in advance.

 

[BetterDays]

Subscribing, as I will be looking to do this for the kitchen.

Check This Old House on the how to......

 

[OccupantRJ]

Cut formica larger all around, paint glue on in one direction, let dry to touch. Glue sides on first, then trim upper and lower edge with laminate trimmer bit in router. Be sure guide bearing on trimmer bit spins freely, or it will burn the surface. Glue top on last, but seperate formica from substrate with yard sticks or similar unitil time to touch down, to prevent premature grab. Pull one stick out at a time, pressing laminate into place as you go. Roll formica and trim with router. Don't let glued surfaces touch until intended, or you'll end up with something you don't want to have to do.

See

http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/formica.html

 

[Identaltech]

^^^^^^^I would also use lamlube on the laminate before you trim with the router.
also cover the bottom to so the counter top wont want to warp.
make sure the area is clean, The smallest chip of wood will find it way under the laminate then you have a bubble.
My son a I built our counter tops for the kitchen.
turned out great and about $200 for everything.
go for it.

 

[back2class]

several tips.
In a garage it should get some abuse unless your a sissy.

It's not so simple to be honest. The slightest woodchip or object between the laminate and subsurface will ruin the job. Sides on first if you laminate the sides. But to do it right, the sides have to be perfectly flat and smoothe. So you have to take your time there in all respects to have good adheasion and a perfectly flat, clean and dimensionaly perfect surface.
My advice is to NOT laminate the edges in a shop. That area is always subject to come off or chip. It is alos the hardest part to do right and the easiest to damage. I would get some 3/4" hardwood stock and just attach it to the faces of the edges. Sand the top of that edge perfectly flat with the top of the unlaminated countertop. Then glue the top on and router off the laminate flush with the edge. You will have a nice looking counter with nice hardwood detail. It will be much more durable, look nicer and can sand the edge back up to 3/4" inch should you chip it. You will also be able to attach things to the front easier. I implore you to so this! It will make for such a better work top and be easier to install.

back to laminate. You can sand the edges and file them as well where needed. All sharp edges should be sanded. Laminate is not simple to work with, it can make a mess, is sharp and will draw blood. It requires good prep and limited work time with the cement.

 

[usa#1]

I don't like using the flush trim style bits with the bearing. I've had them mess up the finish on the front edge of the cabinet. I prefer using the bosch pilot style bits. Prior to routing any edges, I rub the laminate with paraffin wax. Works great, no burning and very easy to use and control. I would recommend using a laminate trimmer rather than a full size router.

 

[robin1731]

One thing no one has mentioned. When you are gluing this make sure you have lots of ventilation. Contact cement is very flammable and the fumes will linger. If you have any open flame make sure you turn it off before spreading the glue. Also you don't really need to worry about painting the glue in one direction. You do need to make sure it is even. We used to use paint rollers on large areas. I built cabinets for over 20 years. Lots of experience with laminate work. Yes it will draw blood easily.

 

[ghnl]

Contact cement is very flammable and the fumes will linger. If you have any open flame make sure you turn it off before spreading the glue.

Or use water based contact cement. I use 3M FastBond 30. It is thinner that the solvent type and the plywood substrate might need two coats. It changes color when it dries so that makes sit easy to know when the glue is ready.

 

[mdoolittle]

Great responses. I am going to exchange the adhesive I got for the non-flammable type. The can I have says min temp is 65 degrees. (it is 21F outside now so....I gotta have some kind of heat) No open flames, turn off electric motors, and on and on. I heat with electric radiant and I guess I am not going to risk it. I read a thread here of someone igniting a vapor pool and burning up a boat. I just hope the water based works as well.

 

[Davo J]

Hi,
I was really nervous about my first laminating job on our kitchen; it is a u shape approx 3.3 mtr wide with 2 legs of 2mtr and 3mtr. The way I did it was to spray the contact on, I only had one join which I used wax paper under the seconded sheet near the join, until I lined it up. If you use plenty of dowel or sticks of timber you will be right, because once the 2 surfaces touch there stuck and I am told only heaps of thinners will get them apart.
I put a 30mm x 20mm timber edge on the ply top first then laminated over them. When it dried I trimmed it with a fancy cutting router bit in from the edge about 12mm that way the join of the timber is under the laminate, and it gives a professional looking finish.
I can only go on my experience with glues. I bought the water based contact adhesive for something on the car years ago and ended up taking it back to the shop as it was rubbish. I think the original stuff is the go, just make sure you have a fan blowing or something.
Davo

 

[Identaltech]

At my sons cabinet shop they have found the waterbase takes forever to set up.
but for us DYI guys time is on our side.

 

[back2class]

The water based *****. Don't do it!

 

[Kevin54]

I don't like using the flush trim style bits with the bearing. I've had them mess up the finish on the front edge of the cabinet. I prefer using the bosch pilot style bits. Prior to routing any edges, I rub the laminate with paraffin wax. Works great, no burning and very easy to use and control. I would recommend using a laminate trimmer rather than a full size router.

Run a piece of masking tape along the edge, then go back with a file to knock the sharpness off after routing. A sharp edge on laminate can slice you just like a razor blade. Other than that it is a relatively simple job to do. Just make sure you have adequate ventilation when working with the contact cement. I've done all the countertops, island, and backsplashes in our house in laminate.
I'll post up a pic when I get home tonight.

 

[musgofasta]

Wow where did you price out countertops?

Lowe's has 6' for $62.00 and 10' for $102.00. I've used a bunch of them. They've held up well in the garage and in the house.

 

[amuffly]

So do install the sides first or the top first?

 

[CraigFL]

I don't like the water base either. I use a router but it would be much easier with a laminate trimmer because they are smaller. I've tried both the bearing and the pilot bit but like the pilot bit better. Dirt is your enemy. Do the sides first if you're using laminate so the edge doesn't show from the top. Get some hard/wood rollers to roll out the laminate so it pressed down hard at the glued surface.

 

[ghnl]

The water based *****. Don't do it!

What brand? I have used 3M Fast bond 30 with great results. The '30' refers to normal dry-to-use time (under normal temps/humidity). Since it is thinner than the solvent based contact cements I do often need two coats on porous substrates (i.e. plywood).

However - to each his own - YMMV. Just remember that solvent based contact cement is very flammable (at least until it has dried).

 

[mdoolittle]

These were priced at Menards. The "cheap countertop price" is for 24" deep with a backsplash installed. I need more counter space than that and don't want the backsplash. Start pricing 27" 30" 36" in the same lengths and it gets crazy pricey. Heck, just get one without the backsplash and you pay more.
Yes, I could have gotten the 24" for $39.92 for 8' and $49.90 for 10'. It was not what I wanted.

 

[Kevin54]

Here is a pic of the countertops I did

 

[Identaltech]

Here's mine

 

[houstonhusker]

I uses an 8 ft laminate countertop from Ikea for $69...can't beat that price...

 

[robin1731]

So do install the sides first or the top first?

Always do the sides first. If you do the top first, then sides you will catch the side when you slide something off and pull it off/break it.

 

[mdoolittle]

Kevin54, Identaltech......very nice work you have done. Well, I spent most of the week trying to find 3M Fastbond 30. I could not find any place that carried it in stock. A couple could order it with case minimums. I finally checked out MSC and ordered it online. 25% off order, free shipping, and free overnight air upgrade.

27 hours after order was placed it was on my porch. I plan on getting them glued down today.