Hello I am wondering if anybody had pictures or information on covering a workbench top with laminate flooring? Whats the best way to attach it to the ply wood underneath? and how thick should the plywood be underneath of it? Also how resistant is it to oils and chemicals?
Laminate Covered Workbench?
- Thread starter summit151
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fteufert
Well-known member
It depends what you work on.
I use 3/4"plywood for my bench top, and used contact cement to glue formica to it. It takes a beating, cleans easily, and is fairly chemical resistant.
Flooring might be good for light duty stuff.
I use 3/4"plywood for my bench top, and used contact cement to glue formica to it. It takes a beating, cleans easily, and is fairly chemical resistant.
Flooring might be good for light duty stuff.
James-W
Well-known member
Contact cement works great for Formica. If you use laminate flooring maybe you could use construction adhesive to bond it to the workbench frame.
Maybe if you go to the laminate flooring company web site it will tell you about how resistance the flooring is to spills.
Maybe if you go to the laminate flooring company web site it will tell you about how resistance the flooring is to spills.
Toymeister
Well-known member
I attached 3/4 oak flooring attached to 3/4 plywood. Very solid bench. Bought seconds/partial bundles from Home depot. I used unfinished oak and finished with used motor oil. Works fine as a general purpose bench. Its not oily which is a bit counter intuitive, I'll admit.
Cyberbear
Well-known member
Formica brand high pressure laminate is a good, hard and durable covering for normal usage, although it will scratch and wear through the thin top layer of color exposing the interior medium brown color.
The laminate can be trimmed with a router and cut with a table saw. Gluing with contact cement is common and two coats of cement are good for porous surfaces. I'm not familiar with laminate flooring.
The laminate can be trimmed with a router and cut with a table saw. Gluing with contact cement is common and two coats of cement are good for porous surfaces. I'm not familiar with laminate flooring.
FullRaceMerc
Well-known member
I would think you would want to find laminate flooring without the foam backing for a workbench top. Normally on a floor it "floats", so it isn't directly attached to the floor. It is just attached to itself & contained by the walls around it. It also normally needs room to expand & contract, but with the smaller surface area of the bench top that might not be an issue. Construction adhesive (Liquid Nails) might be the best shot for it, since there is a little give in it. Are you going to surround the raw edge with wood?
I'm interested in the outcome. Please keep us posted as to how it works out.
I spent 10 years in a laminate shop. Formica, Wilsonart, Nevamar, etc. As for sheet laminate durability, Nevamar was hands down the toughest product. IIrc it contained aluminum oxide, like sandpaper. It was hard on router bits, but was tough in regards to scratch resistance. The demo was to take a piece of garnet paper (Which was a softer sandpaper) & try to scratch it.
I'm interested in the outcome. Please keep us posted as to how it works out.
I spent 10 years in a laminate shop. Formica, Wilsonart, Nevamar, etc. As for sheet laminate durability, Nevamar was hands down the toughest product. IIrc it contained aluminum oxide, like sandpaper. It was hard on router bits, but was tough in regards to scratch resistance. The demo was to take a piece of garnet paper (Which was a softer sandpaper) & try to scratch it.
eddiemeddiem
Well-known member
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- Dec 19, 2011
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I've thought about using left over laminate for the past several years, just haven't got around to rebuilding my workbench yet.
So, I like the idea, but have no direct experience myself... But I'm interested to hear what others have to say.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So, I like the idea, but have no direct experience myself... But I'm interested to hear what others have to say.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
bwringer
Well-known member
It looks like we're talking about a few different things here.
The type of laminate flooring that locks together at the edges (usually comes in planks) is an extremely durable surface, but the edges are vulnerable -- it will swell and buckle if you spill anything on it.
In the house, you can avoid most of this and use it in wet locations if you glue the edges, but that only works for water spills.
I don't know about your workbench, but on mine, gas, oil, grease, WD-40, Kroil, denatured alcohol, brake cleaner, acetone, etc. are more common.
Something that comes in a continuous, durable sheet, like Formica, would be more approriate, and you can replace it cheaply when it wears.
The type of laminate flooring that locks together at the edges (usually comes in planks) is an extremely durable surface, but the edges are vulnerable -- it will swell and buckle if you spill anything on it.
In the house, you can avoid most of this and use it in wet locations if you glue the edges, but that only works for water spills.
I don't know about your workbench, but on mine, gas, oil, grease, WD-40, Kroil, denatured alcohol, brake cleaner, acetone, etc. are more common.
Something that comes in a continuous, durable sheet, like Formica, would be more approriate, and you can replace it cheaply when it wears.
mcapri83
Active member
Heres mine
Theres 1/2 plywood screwed to the 2X4's and the laminate is glued with construction adhesive
Theres 1/2 plywood screwed to the 2X4's and the laminate is glued with construction adhesive
Last edited:
PapaD
Well-known member
I used some of my leftover Armstrong floor tile in a checkerboard pattern like the floor. Sure it will scratch etc., but hey it's a work bench.