Laminate top for workbench

[crazybrit]

I just bought a house, there is a workbench in the shop. Laminate top. Faux woodgrain It's worn down to the wood in places.

I'd like to replace it. Two questions.

1) I'm looking for something cheap, sold by the roll in a 3' width, say 12' length. I looked at Lowes and they just sell large rectangular sheets for kitchen counters.. Also they were $60 a sheet which is more than I wanted to spend.

2) Can I fill the areas on the existing surface where the wood is visible (kind of like what you do when laying new laminate flooring where the old has an indent pattern). Or am I looking at removing the old laminate down to the wood?

Thanks!

 

[Kensgarage]

Go to a sheet metal shop and get some galvanized 20 ga.cut to size and bent to go down over the front edge. Glue it down with some carpenters glue. That'll last you 50 years and should be under $50. The installation will take 2 guys, a few heavy bags of ?? to squeeze the top down, and a six pack.

 

[crazybrit]

I do a lot of electronics work. Not really sure I want metal.

 

[matt_i]

Couple of potential options, 1. 1/4" hardboard, cheap and replaceable. 2. buy real full thickness wood flooring and rent the hand nailer. Essentially build a floor on your workbench. Have to belt sand smooth and finish w polyurethane but its very tough in the end.

 

[crazybrit]

Couple of potential options, 1. 1/4" hardboard, cheap and replaceable. 2. buy real full thickness wood flooring and rent the hand nailer. Essentially build a floor on your workbench. Have to belt sand smooth and finish w polyurethane but its very tough in the end.

What about 7mm laminate flooring?

I found this at HD, 1/8" thick: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...0-115-in-x-47-7-in-x-95-7-in-832777/202046928

Lowes sells a white. Get dirty fast I expect: http://www.lowes.com/pd_16605-46498-300_0__?productId=3015239#BVRRWidgetID

 

[matt_i]

Relative to the laminate flooring I didn't like a couple things. 1) the gaps that are engineered into the wood to make "shadowlines" or add a 3rd dimensional look were not what I wanted. The real wood tongue and groove is jammed as tight as one can get it, I used bar clamps to assist. 2) that it floats on Styrofoam and is held in by the walls, so there was this annoying potential that it could buckle, shift, or get pulled up and over the edge boards at the wrong moment. Probably could strip the foam and then construction adhesive it down, which would solve #2 issue. However, definitely low expense, prefinished, and pretty tough finish at that.

 

[Iggi]

Laminate about 15 2x4s built like a butcher block. Glue and use 3" screws. The top will be indestructible and should last forever. Oil with BLO and it will get a nice color with time.

 

[crazybrit]

Laminate about 15 2x4s built like a butcher block. Glue and use 3" screws. The top will be indestructible and should last forever. Oil with BLO and it will get a nice color with time.

I don't want to raise the level by 1.5".

Perhaps some kind of thinner tonque groove wood flooring would work.

 

[mrvm]

What about 7mm laminate flooring

That could work out depending upon what your planning to do with the workbench (electrical). Not a great idea if your expecting the laminate to hold up to hammering, sawing, or heavy abuse. Solid hardboard on top of the old would be my choice. Cheap, simple and replaceable.

 

[Kensgarage]

How about a 1/4" to 3/8" thick rubber mat ?
You'll have to get old school to find some. Yellow pages under industrial supplies or industrial flooring.Double good for electronics stuff too.
Even a carpet or hardwood floor place might come up with something. Those long run rubber mats used to protect carpeting in offices will do the trick. Usually you can order a specific size......altho you said 36" which I'm sure is a standard size.

 

[KEH]

Horse trailers have rubber matting, a farm supply place should have some or be able to get it. I'm not a horse person so that's all I know about it, except that it is used for the horsed to stand on to protect their feet.

KEH

 

[crazybrit]

I'm going to go to the local recycling center and see what they have in hardwood, maybe some old oak flooring I can plane down.

Otherwise I'll go with 1/8" or 1/4" hardboard. The table is 10' long, so I'd have to seam two pieces.

Thanks for all the suggestions, much appreciated.

 

[Jinks]

I once covered a kitchen counter in stick down floor tile. The same thing I did the floor with. It was smooth, tough, easy to clean, & only cost a few dollars. For a work bench it might be just the thing, & if it gets worn or damaged just do it again............

 

[tab2]

Masonite?

 

[csp]

Masonite = hardboard already mentioned.

 

[Keel]

I like the steel idea, then cover with plastic coat.. it last forever, the plastic coat is rubbery so stuff doesn't slide, and when it is worn, peal it off and redo..

or steel and rubber roof material over it..

or, stop at the local junk yard and do a crawl for a truck bed rubber mat, and cut to fit your needs, bonus if large enough, you might get a matt for you to stand on..

 

[crazybrit]

I found some 3" oak at the Rebuilding Center for $20. Looks never used. I'd have preferred a wider board in longer lengths but it was all they had in a common style sufficient for 10'x26". I did get some wider for the backsplash.

30 mins and a heat gun, got off the old laminate. I could have boarded over but I like to be thorough (aka ****). Couple gouges I need to fill and remove the old adhesive (any suggestions for good/fast method?)

I'll face nail the back board then front nail the subsequent through the tongue.

Peeled the old front trim off also, 1/2" ply looks ok. Should make a good base for the oak. I'll rip some of the surplus stock down to make new front trim.

I'll belt sand it, then apply layer of filler for seams, then orbital sand. Then thinking couple coats of polyurethane. Not sure if better off with water or oil based.

Thanks all for the tips. Any suggestions for doing above welcomed.

Pics so far attached.

 

[myredracer]

Another vote for 20 gauge sheet steel. I just ordered one to be fabricated at a sheet metal shop using galvanized sheet for a 12' x 30" workbench I made. Be aware though that sheet metal comes in standard lengths like 12'. You want to make sure you aren't slightly over 12' then you will be paying a lot more for a 14' sheet. I initially made my bench exactly 12' long but it would have forced me into a 14' sheet. I ended up cutting the frame, took 2 inches out and welded it back together.

A sheet metal top will be the ultimate for durability. Forget laminate. I spec'd a 1 1/2" lip bent up at the walls to create a back splash to keep any fluids getting down behind the bench. A piece of sheet metal this long will be heavy and unwieldy to move. Will need some help to install it.

You *could* use thinner sheet metal but will dent too easily.

 

[MarkG]

Another vote for 1/4" hardboard (Masonite). I've had this on my woodworking bench for 20 years or so and love it. The key is to soak it with several coats of Danish oil finish letting it soak up as much as it wants, wiping off the excess, letting it dry, then repeating it several more times. This basically gives you a very durable, but 'renewable' surface that won't chip off or damage edged tools (if you're a wood worker) Drips of paint, glue, etc. will pop right off with a scraper and the finish is easily renewed anytime because it doesn't form a film----it just soaks in and hardens. It's a great general purpose surface!

2 layers of 3/4" ply and a layer of 1/4" Masonite all glued up and clamped then trimmed flush and edge-banded with 3/4" hardwood makes a great, solid, durable, tool-friendly top. Of course, you don't want to weld or anything like that on a bench like this-----your choice of top depends on how you'll use it, ultimately.

You won't win a beauty contest with this top, the Masonite turns a dark brown when drenched with Danish oil, but if you're looking for a very functional top, this is it!

 

[crazybrit]

Guys, see #17. I've already decided to go with oak top.

Bought some oil based urethane today. 3 coats.