So I was able to snag up 3 of the exact same drafting table lights at 3 different garage sales over the past couple months. They are still being made and cost a cool $350 each... LINK Of the two bulbs the one in the rear keeps blowing as soon as i put a bulb in it and turn it on. Before I start tearing this apart is there any suggestions on what it might be? Bulbs are T8 florescent.
Lamp blowing bulbs
- Thread starter NastyNate
- Start date
SGKent
Banned
how about defining "blowing bulbs." They shatter and go everywhere? They don't light? They flicker and go out? They are new bulbs? They are old bulbs? They are self starting that don't start? They require a starter and get hot? They glow and turn the room a funny color then go out? Everything looks like an X-ray? They get black spots the first time they start but they still glow? The glass melts? I am being silly but "doesn't work" is a classic complaint people make which does not help anyone. A bad light plug will cause them to flicker too.
A split second of light while the switch is being depressed. These are brand new bulb that were tested multiple ways before hand. I went through 3 bulbs just to make sure it wasn't that. I tested in a whole other light (worked fine) Moved to the bad light but in the front, (worked fine) Then moved to the rear. There is a slight flicker then black looking at the ends on the inside like the bulb has burnt out. Took the bulb out and tested in all the other working areas and nothing.
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
My guess is something is either crosswired or your ballast is shot. Another guess is it was doing this to the previous owner, which is why you got it at a garage sale... Is your lamp the kind where you hold the button down to warm up the lamp and then release it to light, or is it a simple on/off (eg "rapidstart") switch? If it's the former (eg really old school), you may also have a worn out button switch...
If it was snapping both bulbs, then I'd guess it was a bulb incompatibility, but since it's the same position every time it sounds like a wiring problem to me... .
If it was snapping both bulbs, then I'd guess it was a bulb incompatibility, but since it's the same position every time it sounds like a wiring problem to me... .
Old school push and hold.
Something I forgot to mention, this was working just fine when I purchased it 4 months ago (dont remember if I bought new bulb or it had some in it). About 2 months ago the one rear bulb burnt out and never replaced it till i picked up 2 more lamps and bought 6 brand new bulbs. Of those 6 bulbs I burnt out 3 testing it like I previously stated. Ill pull it apart and take a look. Thanks for all the suggestions and information.
Thanks for the info, doing that now.
just a thought, can you upgrade to 120 volt led lamps & forget the ballast
grounded-b
Well-known member
They definitely do NOT use T-8 lamps.
Those old style fluorescent fixtures used T-12 lamps ( 1.5" diameter)
The "push and hold till it starts" button, is a substitute for the old aluminum can "starter", used in old fluorescent lights
just wire nut the 2 wires connected to the ballast? and replace with LED bulb?
I think there's a schematic that comes with the lamps. my buddy retrofitted his garage & he had to rewire the fixtures with new tombstones
what lenght are the bulbs?
They all came with the T8 in them 18" long. Im not saying that it is correct but thats why I bought the new ones. I have yet to even put the new bulb in the other fixtures because the old bulbs they have still work.
they are 18" I think I may just go with repairing this one light the other still work fine. It may be a lot more reasonable price wise. Thats if I can find the ballast i guess.
choices here , just be sure to get 120 volt and not 12 volt https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...cat=0&_odkw=LED+F15T8+120volt+&LH_TitleDesc=0
You can bypass the ballast and use LED tubes, but then you have another issue. Is the switch on the fixture the kind that you have to hold down for a few seconds until the tubes fire up? If so, then it's a momentary switch and that's not gonna work for your LED tubes.
Also, before you buy LED tubes, have a look at the wiring diagram for them and be sure that you can get them to wire up correctly with your existing sockets.
I've retrofitted a similar fixture before. Because of these issues, I bypassed the ballast and the switch. I used LED tape instead of tubes and have a remote control for on/off.
Good luck,
CD
Also, before you buy LED tubes, have a look at the wiring diagram for them and be sure that you can get them to wire up correctly with your existing sockets.
I've retrofitted a similar fixture before. Because of these issues, I bypassed the ballast and the switch. I used LED tape instead of tubes and have a remote control for on/off.
Good luck,
CD
DieselNut88
Well-known member
You can find those ballasts on amazon. It does help to have a number, but knowing it is 120v T8 and 18" should be enough.
T8 is older than T12. The F15T8 that this lamp probably used is one of the oldest fluorescent lamps out there.
A commonly available 14-15-20 watt choke would be an appropriate replacement.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VKMTO4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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