Large cabinet door construction

[rattle_snake]

I am planning to build some large doors for a shallow cabinet. The frame is 8’ tall by 12’ wide, with provisions for 3 sets of doors. This makes each door about 23”x96”.
I have built a few this size using ½” MDF, but they are not flat enough. The paint process can further warp. I have also build panel style, but again it is difficult to end up with a flat result. Any distortions in the long dimension are noticeable in the end product. More hinges can help, but doesn’t solve issues where the door pairs meet.

So I am considering building a panel style 8’ door using a steel frame. I can get 1x3 14 gauge rectangular tubing for about $1/ft which is cheaper than wood that is decent enough for the application (such as 1x4 oak). The steel frame can be tweaked to get them flat and also to fit the cabinet frame and other doors. I think the steel frames would also look nice and go with the style of my shop. The panel itself is open to many options, considering white hardboard secured with silicone. Maybe just clear coat the metal frames instead of a paint color.

Plan B would be to build twice and many, half the height, 23”x48”. I’m trying to avoid this but not sure exactly why. Seems like more work, hinges and material but the advantage is obvious. The downside is that there would be an intersection of 4 doors to have to deal with. There are items more than 4’ long in the cabinets so a horizontal divider isn’t feasible.

Thoughts?

 

[Kaizen]

How wide? 12 feet? 6 feet?


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[Hot Rod Grampa]

I like the idea of the metal frame. Use some flat steel backers and insert the melamine board inside the frame. A quick bead of caulk and done. Frame takes the abuse and no warpage. Just thinking out loud.

 

[astroracer]

I built cabinet doors like that for a friend out of 1/4" plywood and 1 x lumber. Ripped a couple of 1 x 12's down to 1 x 2 7/8's to make the frames and glued and screwed the plywood to them. The plywood is a LOT lighter then MDF and the 1 x frame is pretty stiff with some cross bracing. The thicker frame also allows storage for stuff in the door with a few small shelves added to it.
The key to a flat door is building it on a flat surface. We actually built the frames and mounted them to the cabinet before we attached the plywood. Doing it that way the door automatically fit the cabinet with no gaps...
I have a cabinet I need to do this two as well, just don't have room for the door swing.
Mark

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

I plan to also make some bypass style doors (like a closet) for the 33' long shelf above my bench. I would like to make them the same style. There will be 4 of them approximately 30" tall by 8'6'' wide. They will hang from trollies that ride in channels, so trying to keep weight down as the ceiling will have to support them. 14ga is the thinnest 1x3 rectangle tube I can get from my preferred steel supplier.

 

[Slednut]

I use melamine, the sheets are 49" x 97" and you don't have to paint it. All the doors on these cabinets are 1/2 inch melamine.

 

[willymakeit]

Look up torsion box. It's basically what you are wanting to do. As suggested a flat surface is needed.same for welding your frame.

 

[hsvtoolfool]

Yes, torsion box. Like a hollow core interior door.

 

[rattle_snake]

I use melamine, the sheets are 49" x 97" and you don't have to paint it. All the doors on these cabinets are 1/2 inch melamine.

What did you do the edges?

Look up torsion box. It's basically what you are wanting to do. As suggested a flat surface is needed.same for welding your frame.

Yes, torsion box. Like a hollow core interior door.

Hmm, well I learned something old today, thanks.
I already bought steel for frames so I am committed at this point. I'm still not 100% decided on the color of the frames or panel material. Planning to build one set of frames and go from there.

 

[beakie]

if you build the 1/2 height doors, you can still make them work as full height.

get them mounted and working on their own, then once lined up mark each for a biscuit to be cut into top of bottom door, bottom of top door (may need 2 for wide doors)
use a biscuit cutter, and paint each biscuit black to blend into the black interior (if dark)

then remove top door, insert biscuit (loose fit) and re install top door. now it looks like 2 doors, but works as one door. the loose biscuit allows for independent movement between the doors if not perfectly aligned.

this really only works for doors with very small gaps between them.

 

[rattle_snake]

The result is case anyone in interested. Another 4 doors in progress for another storage area.

 

[kasander]

Could have also used 80/20 extrusions for alot less labor, and maybe cheaper.

They are very stiff when connected using their anchor fasteners.

https://8020.net/gallery

 

[JonBoehman]

I have built a few long panel doors and the trick I found is that it is best to use the straightest grain quarter sawn lumber for the rails and stiles with the minimum width of 3.5" The panels can be made with mdf or glued panel lumber( quarter sawn if possible). But if the rails and stiles aren't true and milled correctly its gonna be a little uneven. a large auto feed drum sander will make good work of getting them flat. I know that you used steel and it can warp and move from welding temps as well but giving a little bit of my experience with the issue for future reference.

 

[rattle_snake]

Could have also used 80/20 extrusions for alot less labor, and maybe cheaper.

They are very stiff when connected using their anchor fasteners.

https://8020.net/gallery

Oh, now you tell me about this stuff!

I have built a few long panel doors and the trick I found is that it is best to use the straightest grain quarter sawn lumber for the rails and stiles with the minimum width of 3.5" The panels can be made with mdf or glued panel lumber( quarter sawn if possible). But if the rails and stiles aren't true and milled correctly its gonna be a little uneven. a large auto feed drum sander will make good work of getting them flat. I know that you used steel and it can warp and move from welding temps as well but giving a little bit of my experience with the issue for future reference.

Thanks for sharing that is the point of this thread (and possibly this forum).

 

[calereeves]

That looks phenomenal! Exactly the look ill be going for in mine. What did you use for the panels and what about the hinges?

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[apollo11]

Nice doors

 

[don long]

What a great looking cupboard. great for the garage. I like the looks of the steel frames