Large Gap At Garage Door Threshhold

[AndrewDouglasBird]

Rental Garage Rehab

Edit: Changed the title and am now posting about all my encounters from this garage.

Just moved into a new place (rental) and have a bit of a problem.

Obviously the issue is the corner of the slab has sunken and created the gap on each end. The house is a 30's era place that has been remodelled. The garage is newer, but still quite old. Need some ideas on how to bandaid it so the door seals properly.

I was thinking of just building a wedge out of wood that will fill the gap and then attach it to the bottom of the door, along with a new seal. Any reason I can't do this? I was worried about the added weight, but I figured I could increase the tension on the door spring to compensate if necessary.

I will add that it looks like the garage door isn't travelling all the way down to the slab, so the gap my decrease a bit once I get that adjusted properly.

Thanks.

 

[revamp]

I'd recommend asphalt cold patch. I've had good success with that. QPR is available in most box stores and is widely considered the best quality: http://www.lowes.com/pd_134917-36498-MRN12_1z0ud9b__?productId=3656652&pl=1

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

I'd recommend asphalt cold patch. I've had good success with that. QPR is available in most box stores and is widely considered the best quality: http://www.lowes.com/pd_134917-36498-MRN12_1z0ud9b__?productId=3656652&pl=1

You're saying just fill the depression with asphalt? I'd rather avoid creating a high spot to trip on and the area that is sunken down is probably 10 square feet on each side, so it would take a LOT of material to bring the whole area up. Plus then part of the wall would be covered by the filler material (whether it be asphalt or concrete).

 

[vision8]

I would add a rubber to the bottom of the door. The rubber runner that you can buy from Lowes by the foot that is used as an entrance matt or runner will not add much weight and will conform to the irregular space either as a flap (single or folded ) to make hollow seal ; it could be filled with foam pipe insulation to keep it's shape, they sell this in 3" diameter or larger for industrial use.

 

[Richard Cranium]

Check with a garage door company, They may have an adjustable threshold. I have seen them on screen doors. If not see about getting a couple of the adjustable screen door thresholds. Light weight.

 

[vision8]

What is the funny logo that you have in your profile ?
'MG' 1970 GT !
How long you had it and what has it got in it ?

Al in Dundas
1969 MGB - Old English White, wire wheels, leather interior with red piping , OD.
My 1st car bought her October1969 drove until October 1973. Sitting in the garage for restoration.

 

[revamp]

You're saying just fill the depression with asphalt? I'd rather avoid creating a high spot to trip on and the area that is sunken down is probably 10 square feet on each side, so it would take a LOT of material to bring the whole area up. Plus then part of the wall would be covered by the filler material (whether it be asphalt or concrete).

It's hard to see because the pics have the garage door closed, but yes my suggestion was to fill the depression. If the sunken area is 10ft2, though, you might be able to do a gentle slope/berm where the door closes instead of filling the whole area. If this wouldn't work without making a weird trip hazard or causing difficulty driving in and out of the garage then forget it. In that case, scribing a wooden extension on that part of the door (with good rubber weather stripping on the bottom) might be the best best and leave the floor/slab alone.

It looks in the pics like some asphalt patch was used on the other end of the garage door threshold. Did the other side look like it had settling issues too?

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

I took some measurements and a few more pictures.

I laid a straight 2x6 across the slab and surprisingly, the side where my hand will fit under the door is actually only an inch or so low. It has been filled a bit in the past however. The other side that looks better with the door closed is worse.

I measured each side and the middle of the door from the slab to the top of the opening and the middle is 2" less than each side.

I unlatched the door from the opener and moved it up and down a bit. The door is going all the way down, but it seems like it may be off plumb in relation to the building and that's why I am getting a big gap on the one side when it is relatively flat. Is there a way to adjust the cant of the door? Seems like I should be able to move the tracks side to side at the top or bottom a bit to adjust this, similar to how you adjust a cabinet door.

I think if I can get it more parallel to the slab and then add a filler block and seal, I'll be good.

Another problem I noticed that I didn't get a picture of is the top panel of the door doesn't tilt all the way forward when the door is closed. The wheels are still in the curved part of the track which leaves about a 2" gap at the top of the door. Can I put a block under the wheel mount to space the door forward? I can't think of any reason why this would cause a problem.

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

Just found this video, think I'll give it a try and see if I can make it any better.

 

[kbs2244]

Your u-tube shows the opposite of your problem.
In it the door was crooked.
You have a square door (I hope) and a crooked floor.
First get it to close so it reaches the threshold somewhere.
Then go to your top rollers and adjust them to meet the opening.
Finely, take your 2x6 up against the bottom of the door and with an old style school compass trace the floor outline onto the 2x6.
If you cut along this line you will get a floor fitting bottom piece.
Paint your 2x6 pieces and take off any existing bottom of the door seal and screw this piece to the bottom of the door.
Some rubber seal should take up any gaps.
If you have an electric opener you will now have to re-adjust the door travel.

The 2 times I have done this it was with wood doors.
Yours looks like it is metal, so some imagination screwing he 2x6 to the door may be needed.

 

[T_R]

I would first adjust the door so it closes as best possible. Then fill the low spot with concrete and just taper it back so the hump isn't too bad. If it's just a rental place, I wouldn't put a lot of money or effort into it.

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

After digging into it a bit, I found all kinds of issues. The cable wasn't wound onto the pulley on one side correctly, loose hardware all over, tracks not aligned properly, springs not tensioned properly, chain on the garage door opener not tensioned properly, etc.

Now that that is all fixed, along with adjusting the pulleys a bit like in the video, it is MUCH better.

There is about an inch gap on the left where there was 3" and the right has about 2", which is actually about an inch more than before, but now the entire center section touches the slab with no gaps. The top panel now sits vertical as well and there is no more gap there either.

Also, before it took two hands and a lot of effort to open/ close the door manually. Now it can be done with one hand easily.

Next will be to make some wedges to fill the gaps and install a new seal.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Bill Bowman]

Good job. Wish I could renters like you.

 

[revamp]

Good work!

 

[CNGsaves]

You've got most of it "fixed" to at least close some of the gap. Your landlord ought to give you a free 12 pack of brews 'cuz it looks like he's let the water intrusion get out of hand.

I'd mock up a cardboard template to get contours of that gap so you could transfer to pressure treated 2x4 that you'd cut and glue down to floor so you'd have a real chance at sealing out rain in Oregon no less.

Call local garage door company and see if they have low cost/free door seal in their bone pile of old doors that you can replace that totally rotten seal on bottom of your rental garage door.

 

[Shiftless]

Another little trick is to add closed cell water pipe insulation to the bottom of the door. It comes already slitted so it only takes a few seconds to fit on a length or two. Easy to cut too!

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

I talked to the landlord and he is willing to pay for new seals all around. Going to order them from Amazon and they should be here by Wednesday. I'll update when I get them installed.

 

[roc_on_the_rocks]

I talked to the landlord and he is willing to pay for new seals all around. Going to order them from Amazon and they should be here by Wednesday. I'll update when I get them installed.

Could you share which type of seal you've chosen?

 

[CJ7VFR]

Also, see if you can fix the hole that is in the trim board on the right side of the door. That is a nice size hole, and critters can/will use that hole to get into the garage once you seal up the door nice and tight!!

Jim

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

Could you share which type of seal you've chosen?

Bought this seal for the top and sides:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009F86SE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

And this one for the bottom of the door:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006VAM1K/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Also, see if you can fix the hole that is in the trim board on the right side of the door. That is a nice size hole, and critters can/will use that hole to get into the garage once you seal up the door nice and tight!!

Jim

Yes, that is on the list. The landlord has a bunch of misc wood/trim in the rafters that he said I could use. That will be first thing before installing the seal as the seal mounts to that trim piece.

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

Worked on the garage a bit. Took some pictures of the worst corner.

Kind of hard to tell in the pictures how much it drops, but I built a free-standing shelf unit in that spot today and had to make one leg a full 2-1/4" longer to accommodate the drop.

This is the shelving I put in.

Also found this scary-ness. 20 ft. 2x4 running across the garage came almost completely loose. Most of it's weight (and all the junk piled on it in the rafters) was hanging on a piece of Romex.

I used my floor jack to raise it up and screwed a piece of 2x6 in to brace it up.

Also realized the side walls are bowed outward in the middle at least a few inches. I think a come-a-long and some better bracing might be in order, but we will see if the owner goes for it. He is a contractor and is willing to put money into the house to make it better, so I think he will go for it.

 

[CNGsaves]

{snip}

Also realized the side walls are bowed outward in the middle at least a few inches. I think a come-a-long and some better bracing might be in order, but we will see if the owner goes for it. He is a contractor and is willing to put money into the house to make it better, so I think he will go for it.

Wowsa . . . . a contractor owns that house ???? How long ??

I'd sure be dreaming up way to Keep Water OUT of garage. That "ramp" detail outside of garage sure looks like it just sends water right towards the "seal" at bottom of your garage door ??

You may need to convince "contractor landlord" to dig out trench in front of garage for some sort of french drain of sorts. Maybe he'll get you leftover concrete from some of his jobs to fix up concrete pad !! Good luck.

Looks like you're best thing that's ever happened to that property !! . .

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

I don't think he cares that much. lol

There is a line of bricks cemented into place in front of the garage and this provides a dam to keep water out. Someone also cut a 1" wide or so slot right in front of the door that I assume was to drain water away before it would get in. But rain almost never travels straight down here, so it doesn't help much. That and it's full of dirt/leaves/pine cones at the moment.

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

So I forgot to mention, when I was tearing out the old shelving in the garage today, I hit myself in the face with a hammer. There was a nail in the wall just above eye level, and when I yanked down on the hammer to pull it out, the nail head folded and the hammer flew off and smacked me in the eyebrow and cheek.

So now my eyebrow hurts. lol

 

[amalik]

Another little trick is to add closed cell water pipe insulation to the bottom of the door. It comes already slitted so it only takes a few seconds to fit on a length or two. Easy to cut too!

When there is already a rubber seal there, why would you do that? especially when those are designed for copper pipes?

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

When there is already a rubber seal there, why would you do that? especially when those are designed for copper pipes?

I think he was saying use it as a seal, not in addition to another seal. Although I have seen people put pipe insulation inside a seal like I bought to give it a bit more shape/rigidity.

 

[amalik]

Bought this seal for the top and sides:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009F86SE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

And this one for the bottom of the door:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006VAM1K/?tag=atomicindus08-20



Yes, that is on the list. The landlord has a bunch of misc wood/trim in the rafters that he said I could use. That will be first thing before installing the seal as the seal mounts to that trim piece.

That bottom one looks awesome. Mine is glued! I'd like to yank it and get a screw one.

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

Edited the thread title to just be a general garage thread. No point in making a new thread for every new question with this place.

Got a lot more cleaning and organizing done in the garage today. Completely took apart and rebuilt my bench with a bunch of new reinforcements. MUCH stronger than it used to be.

The broken board sitting in the middle was all there was where the 2x4s are now, and there was nothing supporting directly under the middle.

Also discovered some more scary-ness. I don't have any pictures, but the 2x4 that I blocked up yesterday is also completely detached from the other side and is just sitting on the raw ended of the drywall that is on that side of the garage. There is also a 4x4 two studs over running the distance and it has completely ripped out and is also just sitting on the drywall. Whoever put the 4x4 in used GIANT 1/4" diameter nails to hold it in place and the stud has completely split in half.

Obviously this needs to be fixed ASAP as there is a ton of wood and building materials pilled up on these cross boards. I'm thinking a come-a-long to pull the walls together, then (3) 2x6s to span across (replacing the boards that are there now. A few questions about that though.

1. I figured use 2x6s for the added strength and resistance to bowing over a 20ft. distance. Also so there is more room for screws. What screws should I use? I use 3" deck screws to hold together shelving and other various things all the time, but I feel this might be a bit light. Should I use 1/4" lag bolts with washers perhaps? Would drilling holes and bolting be better? I plan to also block under the new "beams" to support the vertical load.

2. How should I attach the come-a-long to the studs? Screw an eye bolt in a stud on each side?

3. I figured I'd start by tensioning the come-a-long until it was taunt, then remove the current "beams", then pull the walls straight and then attach the new wood. Does this sound like the correct way of doing things?

I will note as well, there are a few vertical 2x4s going from these cross braces up to the roof rafters to help support them in the middle, make a sort of truss shape. I plan to do the same.

 

[Kevin54]

If you are going to live there for a while ask the landlord if he will supply the materials if you supply the labor. The entrance to the garage door really needs to be fixed. You said it was done that way to keep out water, but that only keeps out groundwater from the driveway going in, but any rain will pool up against the door and rot things out. It looks like a wood door, so I'm surprised it hasn't rotted it out and rotted the jamb out yet. It's only a matter of time that it does. And the driveway, if it is getting water pooling on it, then it could stand to be excavated and new gravel put down.

Of course this is if you plan on staying there for any length of time. When I rented, I always treated the place like I would if I owned it. For 8 years I never had my rent raised whereas the people next to me (it was a double) had their rent raised every year. But I mowed both sides of the property, I widened the driveway, I put carpet down, I painted, and I landscaped. When I moved (bought a house) the landlord and his wife begged me not to move because they knew they couldn't find better renters.

 

[AndrewDouglasBird]

Water doesn't puddle at the door at all. It rains here a lot and even recently with heavy rain/wind, there was only a small puddle inside the garage with the gaps like they are now.

The door is aluminum, so no worry about rot.

The driveway is slopped pretty well sideways across the front of the garage towards dirt, so no puddling happens.