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Large Scale Rust Removal

rslaback

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Jul 24, 2010
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Westcentral Wisconsin
I thought I was getting a great deal. I actually just got a good one.

So in a previous life I taught high school tech ed in a small district for 12 years. During the course of that tenure I happened upon a 7'x7' work table at a local business. I negotiated a price for it and picked it up. I had it centralized in my shop and loved it.

I left that position 4 years ago due to a move in my wife's position but went back every now and then to give the new hires (it took them 3 tries) a hand learning the ins and outs of the CNC router and plasma, laser engraver and 3d printer. On one of my first trips back I noticed that the table was missing. That instructor had decided that it took up too much floor space so they moved it to storage.

Fast forward to present day. I'm in the process of buying a 28x40x14 shop and thought that table might be just the ticket for a centralized work table. I called the principal who confirmed it was still surplus and asked me to figure out the scrap value of it. The table weighs around 1500# which at local rates put the scrap value around $94. Because I was so awesome and helpful to my replacements she cut me a deal of the net that the district would receive if they loaded it up and paid a maintenance guy to haul it to the scrap yard. $50 and it was mine.

I had a meeting halfway there so I drove all the way down, borrowed the trailer that I sold to my father-in-law during my move and drove to school. My heart sank when the maintenance guy drove the forked skid loader to the side of the storage building instead of into it. Apparently 3 years or so ago they determined that it was taking up too much space inside so they moved it out next to the building. They did throw some plastic over it at the time and held that down with a collection of cinder blocks, dumbbell weights and the 24x32 cast iron surface plate that I had sitting on it in the shop.

So, does anyone have any tips on large scale rust removal? I'm not opposed to chemicals if that is what it takes. I really want to clean it everywhere but wire wheeling it top and bottom would take forever. I do also need to clean up that 24"x32" weight that made it into my truck as well. That doesn't look like it is in too terribly bad of shape. Most of the texture on the table top is spatter which will have to come off as well. Apparently spatter clean up became optional when I left.
 

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MushCreek

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Upstate South Carolina
Sand blasting. If you don't have one (and the required compressor) you can probably find a place that will do it. It will be really, really clean, but will start to rust instantly, so have your primer ready.
 

Dumber than lumber

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Dec 19, 2015
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1,967
vinegar soak for a few days
follow by rinse with plain water
dry it off and then apply OsPho
you will need a large basin. and lots of vinegar - vinegar is very inexpensive
 

nmantas

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Sep 18, 2010
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Downriver Detroit
I don't think they make the cheap kiddie pools large enough to accommodate it but you could do it wrapped in a tarp (putting it upside down on material to let the electrolytic solution to easily flow underneath it or better yet suspend it . The legs would have to be wire wheeled (angle grinder). The 3/4 ton makes it very difficult to safely move and since it is already on the trailer and you don't have too much into it I think the best move would be to start collecting blasting quotes. Use your pictures so they don't quote it blind, shouldn't be too much.
 
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Find out if you have someone that owns a dustless blasting rig near you.

I built a 21 X 40 portable barge that had surface rust and mill scale. Brought out a guy with a brand new rig to dustless sand blast the middle and side pontoons after I finished welding it all up. Guy was there for quite awhile and never did get it to "white metal" and still had metal scale over most of the surface. Maybe he just didn't know what he was doing, but I thought the dustless blasting sucked myself.
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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Location
Northern Virginia
I recall posting a link where electrolysis was used to restore a planer and the guy used a wetted cloth/sheet technique vs submergence. Can’t find it.
 

johninct

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Dec 21, 2010
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2,599
If you want a true work table and will keep the top bare steel, I would not sand blast the top because the metal will be that sandblast texture.
 

6PTsocket

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Mar 12, 2014
Messages
4,593
If you are going to soak it, poor man's Evaporust is feed grade molasses diluted 9:1. Takes a while but people use it for big stuff like your table.. I would look into getting it sandblasted without the water. It is quick, no tank needed. I have no idea on cost.

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JABgj

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Nov 11, 2013
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So. California
How about a belt sander for the top (maybe with a angle grinder and flap wheel to help the nasty bits) and Evaporust or a rust converter on the rest.
 

RCL

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May 29, 2011
Messages
344
Top could be pitted from the rust, so I vote to sandblast.
 

strutaeng

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Dec 12, 2011
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Location
Dallas, TX
I looks like just surface rust to me. The channels looks a bit worse.

I would just wire brush it and maybe hit it with a wire wheel angle grinder. Prime with red oxide primer and 2 coats of alkyd paint.

The top needs to be unpainted for welding grounding anyways, right?

It's a worktable, so it doesn't have to be all fancy if you ask me.
 
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wkndwarrior29

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Jan 19, 2015
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NorthEast
How about a belt sander for the top (maybe with a angle grinder and flap wheel to help the nasty bits) and Evaporust or a rust converter on the rest.
This.
Use a scraper to get the big stuff then an orbital or belt sander.

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sberry

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Jun 18, 2005
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Brethren, Michigan
Somewhere in there is a needle scaler, then a wire wheel and a sander on the top. It might not be above me to graze the frame with a blaster but then again,,, I have one. I used to do all that and no one noticed,, ha,, I wondered why others didn't then I figure out that it was too much work.
It wouldn't take but a few minutes to an hour to clean it everywhere it could be seen. Do the top with the sander or even big 9 inch grinder with disk running flat. It will look totally different after the first pass, pull outside and do it in fresh air or even in the breeze. n Clean any weld boogers off with grinder.
 

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PFSard

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Mesa, AZ
I'm no expert, but the top shouldn't take long with a flap disk on an angle grinder. Just need to use the correct grit?? I did my 30" X 6' steel table top with one; didn't take long. So, 15 square feet versus 49 square feet.

Good luck with your shop and your table.
 
OP
R

rslaback

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Jul 24, 2010
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Location
Westcentral Wisconsin
Here's the surface plate. This one might go in the electrolysis tank. e076e3128e18e281c68f4644aab7827a.jpg

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larry_g

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oregon
Looking at that table top I wonder if a floor edge sander could be used. They are designed to do flat surfaces; abet wood. Just a thought. Maybe the floor guys can say yea or nay.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Skin

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Feb 24, 2010
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Boston
Don't waste a dime on any liquids. The top is going to be pitted to hell. Maybe that wont bother you. However if you want a smooth surface back you need abrasive blasting or a whole lot of oxide sanding discs. Maybe even both.
 

Maui

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Sep 16, 2012
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Location
Upstate NY
If it were me, I would get some reasonably heavy duty plastic and wrap it around the table top along the edge and seal it to make it water tight. You will obviously have to find a way to plug the holes in the table top, but that should be simple to do. Then I would pour a few gallons of evaporust onto the table top and let it do its job for 3 to 5 days. Drain the fluid by removing one of the plugs, and evaluate what you are dealing with. This would take very little work on your part and provide you with a clearer idea of just how bad the underlying surface really is.

Maui
 
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