JustAnotherJeeper
Member
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2013
- Messages
- 21
Folks:
I am picking up a second-hand folding engine hoist next week.
Similar to this model: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-foldable-shop-crane-69051.html
I picked it up for less than half that price, specifically with a mind to make the following mods:
REAR:
One of the following:
-(preferred solution)
Remove the through-bolted rear casters, weld them back on, allowing me to
install receiver-hitch tubing in the rear legs (preferably) by welding the reinforcement band around the receiver to the face of the existing tubing, with a Grade-5 bolt run through the entire assembly (old tube and new) far enough back to clear the caster assemblies I will make (details below).
-OR, if there is not enough room to insert the hitch tubing inside the existing rear wheel crossmember, weld a new crossmember alongside the back of the existing part, providing receiver-hitch assemblies on each end. Run long stitch welds top and bottom, should be plenty.
Front:
- (cheapest/simplest):
weld or u-bolt non-castering ("fixed-gear" tires to match the rear, 90 degrees to the stock wheels. Drill appropriate holes on the other end of the tubing, 90deg to the existing, enabling me to rotate the front legs 90 and use either big or small wheels to match the rear end. This allows me to use the large wheels or the small stock wheels as needed. This will cause an interference in some situations, however, as the large wheels will be in the way when not in the down position.
I realize the OEM wheels up front caster as well. I have never cared for lifts with casters under the load, I prefer fixed gear under the load as they're stronger and less upsetting to the load when you turn.
-Best/most flexible for up front:
Buy more tubing to match the OEM tubing (or perhaps even larger). Attach wheels and drill holes for the pivot pins as needed, and prime/paint. Throw in garage until needed.
There are some obvious reasons NOT to use large pneumatic wheels on a hoist, like interference with low-slung cars when trying to use this on them. I am not concerned about that- I don't own low-slung cars, and this is a great way to tell folks "sorry, it won't work for your need, so you can't borrow (steal) it". Plus, my mods will allow me to still use the small OEM wheels as needed.
One likely asks why bother? I have a lot of heavy **** I need to lift which is often in my back yard, a friend's yard, or a salvage yard. I am a Jeeper, I think you know where I am going here. The Dana 44s I had in my yard were NO fun to get to the front yard when I was doing my last build. Also, I need to replace my Jeep's engine, and it is presently in same back yard. With large tires, I can actually use the hoist in situ, and don't have to wait to pour another driveway back there. I have numerous other uses as well.
So- anyone modded their engine hoist to use large tires, preferably with an eye to easily removing them? Any advice?
I am picking up a second-hand folding engine hoist next week.
Similar to this model: http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-foldable-shop-crane-69051.html
I picked it up for less than half that price, specifically with a mind to make the following mods:
REAR:
One of the following:
-(preferred solution)
Remove the through-bolted rear casters, weld them back on, allowing me to
install receiver-hitch tubing in the rear legs (preferably) by welding the reinforcement band around the receiver to the face of the existing tubing, with a Grade-5 bolt run through the entire assembly (old tube and new) far enough back to clear the caster assemblies I will make (details below).
-OR, if there is not enough room to insert the hitch tubing inside the existing rear wheel crossmember, weld a new crossmember alongside the back of the existing part, providing receiver-hitch assemblies on each end. Run long stitch welds top and bottom, should be plenty.
Front:
- (cheapest/simplest):
weld or u-bolt non-castering ("fixed-gear" tires to match the rear, 90 degrees to the stock wheels. Drill appropriate holes on the other end of the tubing, 90deg to the existing, enabling me to rotate the front legs 90 and use either big or small wheels to match the rear end. This allows me to use the large wheels or the small stock wheels as needed. This will cause an interference in some situations, however, as the large wheels will be in the way when not in the down position.
I realize the OEM wheels up front caster as well. I have never cared for lifts with casters under the load, I prefer fixed gear under the load as they're stronger and less upsetting to the load when you turn.
-Best/most flexible for up front:
Buy more tubing to match the OEM tubing (or perhaps even larger). Attach wheels and drill holes for the pivot pins as needed, and prime/paint. Throw in garage until needed.
There are some obvious reasons NOT to use large pneumatic wheels on a hoist, like interference with low-slung cars when trying to use this on them. I am not concerned about that- I don't own low-slung cars, and this is a great way to tell folks "sorry, it won't work for your need, so you can't borrow (steal) it". Plus, my mods will allow me to still use the small OEM wheels as needed.
One likely asks why bother? I have a lot of heavy **** I need to lift which is often in my back yard, a friend's yard, or a salvage yard. I am a Jeeper, I think you know where I am going here. The Dana 44s I had in my yard were NO fun to get to the front yard when I was doing my last build. Also, I need to replace my Jeep's engine, and it is presently in same back yard. With large tires, I can actually use the hoist in situ, and don't have to wait to pour another driveway back there. I have numerous other uses as well.
So- anyone modded their engine hoist to use large tires, preferably with an eye to easily removing them? Any advice?
) insert wheel assembly, pin it and go to the other side. Done. This arrangement allows me to use the OEM small casters or big wheels as needed. 
