Largest copper pipe I can solder with propane torch?

[Kevin54]

I was wrong in my earlier post when I stated the copper sewer pipe in my house is 4". It's actually 3". The smaller piping is 1 1/2".

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Everything in the pictures was done with a hand held propane torch and there is far more copper plumbing than pictured. As you see, the bigger pipe can be done, so you can easily do the size pipe you need. The top picture is sideways.

When you go on vacation, do you keep armed guards at the house to keep all of that copper from being stolen I don't think I have ever seen a house that was plumbed in all copper before like yours is. It is impressive though

 

[manwithtools]

I'd be careful recommending Fostapex for compressed air systems. It's rated at 160 psi @ 73°F, most two stage compressors operate at 175 PSI. It looks like Pex-Al-Pex is rated at 200 psi @ 73°F which is the same as Rapidair (which is sold exclusively for compressed air systems).

A tank is not a good mechanism to provide cooling and condensing, it is a good way to store more air. It's more about surface area and convection than thermal mass. In a tank, the air near the tank skin insulates the other air from any cooling effect of the tank skin. Air is not a good conductor, copper and aluminum are. Radiator tubes also provide more surface area for the air to contact and fins to accelerate the release of heat to the ambient air.

Think of it this way, if tanks were good at cooling, your car would have a tank in place of the radiator. Automotive manufactures are always looking for a way to save money.

 

[flat350]

One last statement,before you make a choice,price copper pipe and fittings vs. black pipe and fittings,you may be surprised to find that copper is less expensive and more labor friendly.

 

[manwithtools]

Kevin54, I've seen quite a few houses in the Midwest that were built in the 50's and 60's that had copper drain piping. I'll admit I was quite surprised when I saw the first one.

 

[Streetbu]

My parents house house all copper drain and waste pipe. Helped them remodel their bathroom head shot and had to try to turn the toilet flange 90° What a PITA. I think it must've been at least 4"....

 

[engineer2]

I didn't read all the previous posts, but I spec'd the air system for my employer's 12,000 sq ft factory in 1999 and we used 1" copper for the main loops and 1/2" for drops where needed. Never had a problem, but a 5 hp 80 gallon is sufficient for our needs. For a 2 to 4 car garage, 1/2" is fine. If you have a large pole barn, you might want 3/4" for the main run and 1/2" for everything else. If you want a truly trouble-free system invest in a refrigerated air dryer.

 

[Firebrick43]

I'd be careful recommending Fostapex for compressed air systems. It's rated at 160 psi @ 73°F, most two stage compressors operate at 175 PSI. It looks like Pex-Al-Pex is rated at 200 psi @ 73°F which is the same as Rapidair (which is sold exclusively for compressed air systems).

A tank is not a good mechanism to provide cooling and condensing, it is a good way to store more air. It's more about surface area and convection than thermal mass. In a tank, the air near the tank skin insulates the other air from any cooling effect of the tank skin. Air is not a good conductor, copper and aluminum are. Radiator tubes also provide more surface area for the air to contact and fins to accelerate the release of heat to the ambient air.

Think of it this way, if tanks were good at cooling, your car would have a tank in place of the radiator. Automotive manufactures are always looking for a way to save money.

Why would you run the air manifold over 110 psi? A regulator at the tank should reduce pressure to around 100 and the pipe should be sized to allow no more than 10 psi drop at the end of the run. There is no good reason to run piping at that pressure. Connection points for tools and hose should be regulated to no more than 90psi or lower if the tool requires a lower pressure.

 

[manwithtools]

I regulate at the individual drops. No need for the restrictions of a regulator at the compressor and the drops.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ This. Keep compressor tank and airline system at high pressure.. Reduce with a regulator at the drop for specific tool.

OP . . . let's SEE this massive copper airline system. Must have a MONSTER screw compressor to be filling up copper airline system in the 1+" to 2" range !!!

 

[Firebrick43]

I regulate at the individual drops. No need for the restrictions of a regulator at the compressor and the drops.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

A regulator is not a restriction if sized correctly and even Rapidair shows it on their installation instructions. Also Rapid air does have a plastic tube product without the aluminum. Rapidair home garage kit, they just recommend keeping it regulated under 150 psi.

A regulator after the compressor is not only a safety feature, but can significantly save on system cost. Nearly all air tools and blow guns are rated for 90 psi max. So one regulator will cover the whole system. If using a device such as an hvlp spray gun you can plug in an inline regulator were and when needed. If you run the whole system at 175 you need a regulator at every drop and need higher cost piping.

As 2big2ride stated just use oxy acetylene or an air acetylene torch. Takes a little practice as solder times are seconds to perform but less heat if your soldering next to valves or other heat sensitive components.

 

[sberry]

This certainly depends on the shop. I fundamentally agree 1 regulator is usually sufficient for a common garage and would go for whole system from 1 if I could.
My ramble in this thread was mostly principle, there are not the run length or transportation issues and some garages may not need any pipe, a valve from the tank a hose to a reg and to a reel of fixes whips and would not put any hydrants in at all having only a single QC in the system at the business end of the tool.
I realize it looks neat and is a personal thing and all but the nicest designs I have seen for home garages here have been simple and we should really collect them in a thread.

 

[manwithtools]

If you don't have a pressure reduction regulator at the compressor, the manifold system is effectively an extension of tank storage. Depending on the size and length of the pipe it can add up, if run is short and diameter is small then its of little benefit and it's not worth the cost.

Best results are achieved by reducing air pressure as close to point of use as possible. It's up to each person how they choose to implement their compressed air system. I simply cautioned about the maximum pressure of a posters recommended product, not everyone reads the specs closely.

To your point, Rapidair states the same thing I did.

 

[skoronesa]

If he does a black main and pex drops with individual regs he wouldnt have to worry about the pressure rating. Besides, pex can do like 300 psi (ask me how I know and if it fails it just tears, doesn't shatter. All though he will have air every where, what a mess to clean!!! I do read the specs closely, mawp and actual max are different. Most home compressors I have seen top out at like 150 anyway and he could always adjust his pressure switch.

My home compressor is set at 80/100 and I have like 20' of 1/2" copper coming off of it. It's in my basement piped to a 1/4" chuck on the edge of my deck and fills tires plenty quick and runs my 3/8" impact just fine. If I didn't have a bunch of scavenged copper pipe/fittings I would have done 3/4" pex, I get it for 12$/20' stick and the fittings are like 1$ a piece of which you need less because you can bend the pipe.

 

[skoronesa]

I'd be careful recommending Fostapex for compressed air systems. It's rated at 160 psi @ 73°F, most two stage compressors operate at 175 PSI. It looks like Pex-Al-Pex is rated at 200 psi @ 73°F which is the same as Rapidair (which is sold exclusively for compressed air systems).

A tank is not a good mechanism to provide cooling and condensing, it is a good way to store more air. It's more about surface area and convection than thermal mass. In a tank, the air near the tank skin insulates the other air from any cooling effect of the tank skin. Air is not a good conductor, copper and aluminum are. Radiator tubes also provide more surface area for the air to contact and fins to accelerate the release of heat to the ambient air.

Think of it this way, if tanks were good at cooling, your car would have a tank in place of the radiator. Automotive manufactures are always looking for a way to save money.

You are correct, a tank is not a "good" condenser but it will work to some extent as could his main if it is large enough and has drip legs. Stagnant air or not the humidity will move from high to low areas of humidity and heat radiates without requiring the air to circulate, that's why heat is one of the few things that can escape a black hole.

 

[manwithtools]

If he does a black main and pex drops with individual regs he wouldnt have to worry about the pressure rating. Besides, pex can do like 300 psi (ask me how I know and if it fails it just tears, doesn't shatter. All though he will have air every where, what a mess to clean!!! I do read the specs closely, mawp and actual max are different. Most home compressors I have seen top out at like 150 anyway and he could always adjust his pressure switch.

My home compressor is set at 80/100 and I have like 20' of 1/2" copper coming off of it. It's in my basement piped to a 1/4" chuck on the edge of my deck and fills tires plenty quick and runs my 3/8" impact just fine. If I didn't have a bunch of scavenged copper pipe/fittings I would have done 3/4" pex, I get it for 12$/20' stick and the fittings are like 1$ a piece of which you need less because you can bend the pipe.

Thank you, oh thread resurrector.....