Latest in screw extractors

[PassnThru]

I'm ordering parts right now to fix a manifold leak on my Explorer - 2007 4.6L 3V. Apparently it's a common problem for a stud to break causing a leak. I do plan to start with some left hand drill bits for the inevitable broken stud - assuming that plan fails what is the current best tech for an extractor. I've used the standard spirals before with mixed success. I'm aware of the fluted but haven't used them before - is that a step up/step down/meh?
Welding a nut on the stud is not an option in my garage due to the lack of a welder.

 

[48RON54]

I can't really help you on the best way to get them out other than my own experience. My truck is known for this issue as well. I had 2 broken manifold studs on the driver side. I spent days researching easy outs and the welding method and basically researching/stressing about what I was about to go up against. I got lucky. Those studs were finger tight at best. they came right out. I hope you have the same luck. I think I sprayed them with a lubricant and let them soak awhile before removing them but that was it. Good luck!

 

[PassnThru]

I'm keeping my fingers crossed but I always prepare for the worst

Murphy has visited more than once.

 

[jonesg]

What better excuse could you ask for , craigslist used Lincoln MIG.!

If you decide to drill, make a jig to keep the bit from drifting into the water jacket.
Take a small section of 2x4 , drill a vertical hole (drill press if you can).
Prep broken stud as normal with a center punch to locate the bit.
Put the wooden block against the engine and drill away with reverse drill.

 

[spddmon]

You need the Lisle 68500 tool

 

[ocloc24]

I have had the best luck with Multi-Spline extractors. Irwin makes them for all the truck brands.

The next best I've found are straight flute extractors. The multispline bite the best though.

I always start by getting some kroil or other good lubricant on it and letting that soak. Center punch and possible carbide burr if I can't get the drill to stay centered. I use left hand drill bits, a many times those alone can do the trick. If that doesn't do it, continue drilling the appropriate sized hole for the extractor you're going to use. Tap extractor in lightly with hammer, more oil, and try to remove. As always be wary of using too much force, if the extractor breaks off your far worse off. Had an idiot at work yesterday drill the hole off center and caught the threads of the hole and tried using an extractor.... snap. Also remember heat is your friend, if possible.

I'm sure you know how to use them, I just wanted to share my process. Good luck sir.

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[PassnThru]

You need the Lisle 68500 tool

As a non-professional that's a bit of overkill. Thanks for bringing it to my attention but I've seen it before. At the end of the day - if I fail to extract the stud - I can take it somewhere. It's already leaking there. If I reassemble it's still leaking there.
Spacers can be made using the existing manifold as a template if necessary. I have a drill press. If drilling has to happen - I've already thought about how useful that drill press can be. You see where I'm going....

 

[PassnThru]

What better excuse could you ask for , craigslist used Lincoln MIG.!

If you decide to drill, make a jig to keep the bit from drifting into the water jacket.
Take a small section of 2x4 , drill a vertical hole (drill press if you can).
Prep broken stud as normal with a center punch to locate the bit.
Put the wooden block against the engine and drill away with reverse drill.

Yes - as noted above - the drill press is your friend. Lay the manifold on the the wood - center with the same size bit - clamp and drill the real hole. Move and repeat. Use thick wood - if it's too thick then use a spade bit to create a recess.
Use good wood though - not pine. I've got plenty of oak scraps from a flooring project.

 

[PassnThru]

My real problem right now is finding left hand bits on Amazon the aren't really cheap or really expensive.

 

[WF103]

I have had the best luck with Multi-Spline extractors. Irwin makes them for all the truck brands.

The next best I've found are straight flute extractors. The multispline bite the best though.

I always start by getting some kroil or other good lubricant on it and letting that soak. Center punch and possible carbide burr if I can't get the drill to stay centered. I use left hand drill bits, a many times those alone can do the trick. If that doesn't do it, continue drilling the appropriate sized hole for the extractor you're going to use. Tap extractor in lightly with hammer, more oil, and try to remove. As always be wary of using too much force, if the extractor breaks off your far worse off. Had an idiot at work yesterday drill the hole off center and caught the threads of the hole and tried using an extractor.... snap. Also remember heat is your friend, if possible.

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Slightly off topic: do those Irwin bits work as pipe extractors?

 

[vssjim]

go to Harry J Epstein's page and look up Norseman left hand bits

 

[jobo1004]

go to Harry J Epstein's page and look up Norseman left hand bits

My thoughts exactly. Here's a link.
https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=left+hand+drill+bit

If it helps here's a South Main Auto video where he's working on some broken manifold bolts on a V10 Ford.

 

[ocloc24]

Slightly off topic: do those Irwin bits work as pipe extractors?

Yes, funny you ask, I just had to extract a broken pipe ****** with them last week. Saved the day. I've actually seen these sold in 3 or 4 PC sets labeled as pipe extractors. Harbor freight sells a small set of them marked that way.

You can get the Irwin 25PC set for around $50 on Amazon, but matco and snap on both rebrand them. They're about double but depending on how much you'd use them and considering the probability of these breaking, it may be worth the upcharge for the warranty.

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[Wamsutta]

I'm aware of the fluted but haven't used them before - is that a step up/step down/meh?

They're a thousand times better than the spiral type if you use them correctly. All you have to do is drill all the way through the stud and then use the correct size extractor. The drill bit size is printed on the extractor. Pound the extractor in with a hammer. A 12 point socket grips the extractor for turning. I recommend Proto because those are the only kind I've used.

 

[ocloc24]

My real problem right now is finding left hand bits on Amazon the aren't really cheap or really expensive.

Harbor freight sells a set of left hand bits but they aren't stellar. They've saved me a few times though, and I don't know of any other physical stores that stock them. They were so cheap I bought 2 sets figuring I'd break them after a couple uses, I have yet to break a bit though.

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[Skin]

At the least get yourself a torch to pre-heat the nuts. You might be just fine with that if it didn't spend years in the rust belt. When they break on their own its usually just the end at the nut so there is plenty of thread left to grab once the manifold is off. The danger of snapping them flush with the block happens when removing the rest.

Stud extactor/installer wouldn't be a bad purchase either.

 

[ovilla]

I've bought individual left hand drill bits off the SnapOn truck before and they were very reasonable - like under $10 each.

 

[gdocktor3]

How do you guys decide which size drill bit/extractor to use? Lets say you have a 3/8" stud showing. What size would you choose? Just curious as to how you make the decision as I personally have never seen anything to reference.

 

[ocloc24]

How do you guys decide which size drill bit/extractor to use? Lets say you have a 3/8" stud showing. What size would you choose? Just curious as to how you make the decision as I personally have never seen anything to reference.

usually you use the biggest one you can without risking damaging the hole, although some times people start small and work their way up. Many extractor kits do come with a chart that lists which size bit/ extractor to use for each bolt diameter

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[redvalkyrie]

Someone may have mentioned this but if you can get to the stud there is one method that always works. First, you have to grind or mill the stud flat so you can center punch it. After you punch it you can drill it out with left or right hand bits. If you only have right hand drill bits simply start at 1/8"--and take it slow. Keep stepping up and eventually the bolt will be so thin it will lose tension.

Or there's a broken stud puller. Looks like a chuck.

 

[Snap_cap]

My real problem right now is finding left hand bits on Amazon the aren't really cheap or really expensive.

Cle-Line left hand cobalt drill bits is what you seek.


Good luck with your repair.

 

[Dagny]

a steel bolt in cast iron will blow with a cutting torch

 

[jonesg]

How do you guys decide which size drill bit/extractor to use? Lets say you have a 3/8" stud showing. What size would you choose? Just curious as to how you make the decision as I personally have never seen anything to reference.

With that much stud showing it would be quite foolish to drill,
just get a Titan stud extractor.

Or grind two flats heat with torch and grab it with vice grips, unscrew it, simple.

I wouldn't drill it unless theres unsufficient stud to grab.
EZouts are brittle and can easily break, I don't care who makes them.

You will never break a titan, the stud might break but the Titan? never.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...t-breakers-17952/stud-extractor/16023/4753787

 

[ocloc24]

With that much stud showing it would be quite foolish to drill,
just get a Titan stud extractor.

Or grind two flats heat with torch and grab it with vice grips, unscrew it, simple.

I wouldn't drill it unless theres unsufficient stud to grab.
EZouts are brittle and can easily break, I don't care who makes them.

You will never break a titan, the stud might break but the Titan? never.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...t-breakers-17952/stud-extractor/16023/4753787

He was saying a 3/8" diameter thread not height. If there's that much stud showing then definitely a host of things to try before drilling it

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[PassnThru]

I am picking up a set of fluted extractors just in case. I'm looking at buying the left handed bits as a set with the spiral extractors because I don't have all the sizes currently in the spirals. How does this look?

https://www.amazon.com/Norseman-Screw-Remover-Super-Premium/dp/B0036YW6WC/ref=sr_1_22?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1502583016&sr=8-22&keywords=left+hand+drill+bit+set&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

 

[rapid robert]

Those studs on the fords usually come out pretty easy...harder part is getting the remaining nuts off to remove the manifold.

Last one I did the two studs that broke, broke even with the outside of the manifold flange, so once the manifold was off there was plenty of the stud sticking out of the head to get a vice grip on it and turn it out.

Good luck!

 

[rapid robert]

Erik O at South main Auto on YouTube has a video on Ford manifolds - that covers the job.

 

[21bubba]

See if theses guys have a application for your vehicle. They work.
www.kralautoparts.com

 

[GTA Matt]

The problem you'll find with your Explorer is that you can't actually get a drill on most of the studs. The spring tower, frame, ac and coolant lines are all in the way. Welder is really the only way to go.

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[PassnThru]

See if theses guys have a application for your vehicle. They work.
www.kralautoparts.com

So they are basically passing the load to the other studs?

 

[PassnThru]

The problem you'll find with your Explorer is that you can't actually get a drill on most of the studs. The spring tower, frame, ac and coolant lines are all in the way. Welder is really the only way to go.
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What bothers me the most is you are in NC - I was hoping the people that had major problems were in the rust belt.
What mileage on that engine? I'm seeing rust in your pic that doesn't exist on mine.

 

[GTA Matt]

What bothers me the most is you are in NC - I was hoping the people that had major problems were in the rust belt.
What mileage on that engine? I'm seeing rust in your pic that doesn't exist on mine.

I believe that truck had under 150k. A bit more rust then the average southern car, but still not near as bad as some I've seen. Usually I spray them down with pb blaster when warm, for what good it will do and go to work on the nuts. If the studs break, they break. There is no preventing them. Occasionally I'll need an irwin twist socket to get the nuts that have shrunk down from rust loose. Typically half will either come off, or the stud will unscrew from the head (ideal), and the rest will break, usually flush or below flush. Studs tha are broken before you start the job are typically flush with the manifold flange. The assenmacher roller type stud extractors work best for removing studs left unbroken in the head. Use ford gaskets, studs and nuts, get new dorman or ford manifolds. The old ones just aren't worth the time.

 

[FSrepair&fabrication]

One thing to be cautious of when using a left handed drill bit or extractor is when they grab it can spin the the threaded insert in the aluminum head, then youre really screwed. Doesnt usually get this bad but somtimes the stud is so seized it just happens. I like to drill it out until theres hardly any bolt left then try to extract. Also the outermost bolt holes have a water jacket around them and if you drill too deep or off course youll hit water and have even more problems. One of my first jobs was working on a fleet of fords with the 4.6/ 5.4 gas and 6.0 diesel. Broken exhaust bolts can really **** sometimes on those engines.

 

[WhiffySpark]

Everytime I tried the weld a nut on it they always twisted off

 

[dkroth]

I am picking up a set of fluted extractors just in case. I'm looking at buying the left handed bits as a set with the spiral extractors because I don't have all the sizes currently in the spirals. How does this look?

https://www.amazon.com/Norseman-Screw-Remover-Super-Premium/dp/B0036YW6WC/ref=sr_1_22?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1502583016&sr=8-22&keywords=left+hand+drill+bit+set&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

You could save a couple bux with the Irwin set. Norseman is going to beat Irwin on quality.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/?tag=atomicindus08-20




.

 

[Bretny]

Drilling should be your last resort. Weld a nut on the broken piece. Even if it means taking the whole manifold off and breaking another stud. It was prob on its way out anyway. I have never had good luck with easy outs on exhaust parts as i live in the rust belt. When you weld that nut on melt a candle in the threads.

 

[PassnThru]

Use ford gaskets, studs and nuts, get new dorman or ford manifolds. The old ones just aren't worth the time.

Ordering a Dorman replacement manifold - the old one may not be cracked but it's not available locally so it will be replaced. The Dorman comes with gaskets but ordering FelPros also. Ordering replacement stainless studs.

 

[dkroth]

Ordering a Dorman replacement manifold - the old one may not be cracked but it's not available locally so it will be replaced. The Dorman comes with gaskets but ordering FelPros also. Ordering replacement stainless studs.

Dorman?

Removing broken bolts?

You need to watch South Main Auto.



.

 

[gdocktor3]

Drilling should be your last resort. Weld a nut on the broken piece. Even if it means taking the whole manifold off and breaking another stud. It was prob on its way out anyway. I have never had good luck with easy outs on exhaust parts as i live in the rust belt. When you weld that nut on melt a candle in the threads.

I too live in Rusty America. I'd say 1 out of 5 extractors work for me and its a long, tedious process of penetrating oil, heat, drilling, talking nicely, etc, etc, etc, just to have it break. Welding a nut on is the best method hands down.

 

[PassnThru]

You could save a couple bux with the Irwin set. Norseman is going to beat Irwin on quality.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002NYBH8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

.

I looked at that set but I can't 100% determine if the drill bits are left hand though. They don't say they are.