Latest tool - wire solder for soldering

[Outlander]

This was 3D printed by a friend at work after we chatted about the overall failure of alligator clip 'helping hands'.

I think it qualifies as a 'new tool arrival'.

If you have a 3D printer the original file came from here: Thingverse link

 

[Outlander]

apologies - title should read "Wire holder for soldering"

 

[FigureItOut]

That looks like it might work pretty well.

I have a helping hands tool and I love it. It doesn't work very well with regular alligator clips on it though, they are too sharp/jagged and they damage wire insulation. I smashed the alligator clip ends on mine flat and then I melted some adhesive heat shrink over the last 1/4-3/8" of the tips. Now when I clamp wire it doesn't do anything to the insulation.

Thanks. I had to immediately go do that.

 

[guy48065]

What temp can that plastic thingy handle before it melts yellow goo all over your leads?
My understanding is your fingertips are higher temp than 3D printer plastic.

 

[FigureItOut]

If you're melting that plastic you're soldering very poorly.

 

[jeff lary]

Hey while you are all here talking solider I have the need a few times a year to solider a wire or two. I use a Weller gun type but what is a good easy melting solider? The kind I have is for electrical uses but it is hard to get hot enough with the gun. If you use flame it melts fine but that can make a mess. By the time the gun gets it hot enough to melt I have wiggled the wires enough to have to stop and re-twist the wires again and start over. I am talking the kind of wire size you would find on a trailer tail light sort of fix.

 

[ttpete]

Hey while you are all here talking solider I have the need a few times a year to solider a wire or two. I use a Weller gun type but what is a good easy melting solider? The kind I have is for electrical uses but it is hard to get hot enough with the gun. If you use flame it melts fine but that can make a mess. By the time the gun gets it hot enough to melt I have wiggled the wires enough to have to stop and re-twist the wires again and start over. I am talking the kind of wire size you would find on a trailer tail light sort of fix.

Ditch the gun and get a decent pencil iron. Solder guns are not much good for anything. I won't even own one.

 

[FigureItOut]

Hey while you are all here talking solider I have the need a few times a year to solider a wire or two. I use a Weller gun type but what is a good easy melting solider? The kind I have is for electrical uses but it is hard to get hot enough with the gun. If you use flame it melts fine but that can make a mess. By the time the gun gets it hot enough to melt I have wiggled the wires enough to have to stop and re-twist the wires again and start over. I am talking the kind of wire size you would find on a trailer tail light sort of fix.

I'd bet you're using lead free solder. Ditch that garbage and get the real stuff. Kester makes excellent solder, I use the 63/37, it has a lower melting point than standard 60/40. In any case, some real rosin core that's not lead free will make your soldering go much easier.

 

[jeff lary]

I'd bet you're using lead free solder. Ditch that garbage and get the real stuff. Kester makes excellent solder, I use the 63/37, it has a lower melting point than standard 60/40. In any case, some real rosin core that's not lead free will make your soldering go much easier.

Thank you this is exactly the kind of response I needed. I will try to find Kester online and see what I can get. Or can I but this at some brick and mortar store?

 

[FigureItOut]

Thank you this is exactly the kind of response I needed. I will try to find Kester online and see what I can get. Or can I but this at some brick and mortar store?

Amazon is good, search "kester 44" and choose your diameter. I use 0.031 but you'll want thicker probably. A pound will probably last you forever, you can also get smaller tubes.

 

[guy48065]

If you're melting that plastic you're soldering very poorly.

Either that or you haven't tried to solder bare leads held by low-temp plastic either.

 

[Coolerman]

To help prevent overheating of smaller gauge wires, it helps to pre-tin both wires, THEN solder them together. I also use a flux pen to clean the wires to make it easier for the solder to stick. Especially useful when trying to solder older tarnished wires like found on trailers. In a pinch if you don't have flux available, pop the top on a +12V battery and get a bit of the sulfuric acid and dab it on the wires. It will clean them quickly!

 

[ttpete]

To help prevent overheating of smaller gauge wires, it helps to pre-tin both wires, THEN solder them together. I also use a flux pen to clean the wires to make it easier for the solder to stick. Especially useful when trying to solder older tarnished wires like found on trailers. In a pinch, if you don't have flux available, pop the top on a +12V battery and get a bit of the sulfuric acid and dab it on the wires. It will clean them quickly!

Sure, and then after you put the shrink tube on, the residual acid will attack the wire and destroy the joint. Never use acid flux on electrical equipment. There's only one flux I will use, and the brand is Nokorode.

 

[MFolks]

I've found for the best solder joints, is to take a rag or paper towel moistened with 70% Alcohol or stronger, and clean the solder by rubbing, before applying the Solder. Fingerprint oils will affect the solder joints.

 

[jeff lary]

When speaking about my issues when I say making a mess it is because I am having to switch to a small torch when my solider will not melt.
All I meant was if the gun does not melt the solider then my next weapon is a small butane torch but that tends to get the wires too hot,...( thus melting the plastic insulation ) . That is why I am here asking I know my solider is not the right thing thus I would not have to use a torch to melt it , a gun would work. So now I have a type of solider to look for. That is what I needed to know.

 

[jeff lary]

I just now went out to the shop to see what I have been using and learned a lot in 5 seconds of looking. First the Weller gun is most likely too small it is a 140/100 ( two stage heat trigger) Next is I am using Kester solider now but it is 95/5 not correct either I assume. The size is 0.50 I like that diameter for the kind of repairs I make, or am I nuts is it too large or too small? Next is the tip is all black and not tinned correctly it is also steel not copper so that probably don't help either so that will have to be corrected

 

[MikeF2316]

When speaking about my issues when I say making a mess it is because I am having to switch to a small torch when my solider will not melt.
All I meant was if the gun does not melt the solider then my next weapon is a small butane torch but that tends to get the wires too hot,...( thus melting the plastic insulation ) . That is why I am here asking I know my solider is not the right thing thus I would not have to use a torch to melt it , a gun would work. So now I have a type of solider to look for. That is what I needed to know.

You might need a more powerful iron. I have an 80 watt and a 30 watt iron. The 80 is way hotter, but when soldering larger wires, the insulation is less affected because you get the temperature up, get the solder flowing and get out before the heat has traveled very far.

 

[FigureItOut]

I just now went out to the shop to see what I have been using and learned a lot in 5 seconds of looking. First the Weller gun is most likely too small it is a 140/100 ( two stage heat trigger) Next is I am using Kester solider now but it is 95/5 not correct either I assume. The size is 0.50 I like that diameter for the kind of repairs I make, or am I nuts is it too large or too small? Next is the tip is all black and not tinned correctly it is also steel not copper so that probably don't help either so that will have to be corrected

Your gun is plenty big. Your problem is that tip you describe as all black. Might be too late to clean it. Get yourself a new tip and you should be fine. While you're at it, grab a couple hakko brass sponges and clean the tip often while soldering.

 

[lbperry]

Thanks. I had to immediately go do that.

I like your design Figure. Think I'll swipe it and make me onee. Only change I may make is to connect the clips to the base with small bolts/nuts to make the width adjustable.
Thanks for the idea,

 

[FigureItOut]

I like your design Figure. Think I'll swipe it and make me onee. Only change I may make is to connect the clips to the base with small bolts/nuts to make the width adjustable.
Thanks for the idea,

Not my design unfortunately, but it's handy. http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/WH500/wire-holder/

 

[jeff lary]

I just spent some time in the shop, I took the tip out and cleaned it well w/ steel wool then flux, tin, then clean, then flux, tin, clean and so on. Now the tip looks very nice and I can get the solider to melt much faster but it is still a little slow. I think I need to buy some 63/37? or what ever it was I will go back and look. Thanks for all the advice. I went to you tube last evening and watched some soldering tips and I learned a lot I think.

 

[FigureItOut]

I just spent some time in the shop, I took the tip out and cleaned it well w/ steel wool then flux, tin, then clean, then flux, tin, clean and so on. Now the tip looks very nice and I can get the solider to melt much faster but it is still a little slow. I think I need to buy some 63/37? or what ever it was I will go back and look. Thanks for all the advice. I went to you tube last evening and watched some soldering tips and I learned a lot I think.

As clean and nice as the tip may look, it may may just be spent. I'm blanking right now, but a new tip has a coating that has a finite lifespan. You can prolong it's life, but when it's gone it's gone and the tip is spent.

 

[MikeF2316]

As clean and nice as the tip may look, it may may just be spent. I'm blanking right now, but a new tip has a coating that has a finite lifespan. You can prolong it's life, but when it's gone it's gone and the tip is spent.

I wear a hollow into the tip if my big iron. The 2 beveled faces on the end get concave, and after it gets bad enough, I file them flat again, exposing bare copper. I just re-tin the faces and it's a good as new. I've worn out (made them too short to be usable) 2 tips with that iron.