To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Latex paint over galvanized steel?

yhprum

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
1,408
Location
Brisbane Australia
Hi All,
My garage ceiling is galvanized steel, with a concrete floor above.

Would like to paint it flat white to brighten it up.

Seeing cars and trucks with peeling paint over galvanized steel, I would rather avoid the possibilty of peeling paint.

Is there a special primer for this, or can I just spray the paint on bare metal?

Thanks!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Strouty

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
38,227
Location
Southern Maine
Galvanized steel is prone to soaping, essentially the paint just falls off. If you let the steel weather outside for a while (weeks?) there will be much less of a chance of this happening. I have heard of people cleaning it as well, but have no experience with this.
 
OP
Y

yhprum

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
1,408
Location
Brisbane Australia
Thanks Strouty,
This is probably 40 years old at least, but no weathering.
Sounding like etching primer may be required.
 

Strouty

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
38,227
Location
Southern Maine
Even the etching primer will not help. Being 40 years old might. I would try a small area and see what it does. Galvanized steel is a funny thing.
 

BADSIX

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Messages
895
Location
oregon coast
I was told by my local paint store that latex was the best paint for galvanized steel. I used it on some galvanized rain gutters, the paint was about 8 years old and still looked good when I sold the house. you need to get it good and clean, acids aren't the thing to be used on galvanized metal. clean it good with a good detergent and paint. being inside out of the weather it should last a long time. check with your local paint dealer.
Jay D.
 

CGT80

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 29, 2014
Messages
890
Location
IE, SoCal, USA
Use a primer that states it will stick to galvanized steel.

Zinsser water based cover stain will stick to galvanized metal, according to the label, and I have used it for such. It is made to stick to glossy and smooth surfaces without sanding. Some of the Zinsser primers stick to tile and glass as well. I used the oil based cover stain all the time, before they came out with a water based version. Bullseye 123 primer is also by Zinsser as well as BIN primer. They are all very good, but have different purposes.

Kilz *****, in my professional opinion, and is pushed by home depot. On the kilz products sold at HD, it said to sand glossy surfaces first. Originally, I bought the zinsser primer at the local paint supplier that we used for many years and then the Sinclair and ICI paint stores.

With all that said, I never had a chance to prime galvanized and go back years later to see how it held up. It is very common to see paint fail to adhere to galvanized material, but it is usually outside and often I saw the failure on trash enclosure gates. They got beat up and who knows if they were primed properly. When I had to paint them, I had our cleaning crew go by and hit them with the pressure washer and alkaline soap. The water temp was set at 200+ degrees on those units, so it cut through all the grease. After I cleaned up any left over peeling paint, I primed with zinsser and painted the gates again.

On the ceiling, I would make sure it is clean (probably a pain to do) and then spray it with an airless and cover stain, then a good white paint. It shouldn't see much abuse on the ceiling and flat is forgiving as long as you don't have to try and clean something off it.

I don't know if the concrete will cause any issues, but I would make sure the temperature of the metal and air is warm for a day before you paint and that it stays that way for a day afterwards. The concrete may be quite cold and it could hold moisture. This seems like a job for the warmer months, unless your garage and the area above stay at a decent temperature.

Primer is always better than paint, in my experience. I would rather use great primer and two coats of it, then middle of the road paint, than just an all in one paint that is expensive. Now, there are direct to metal products out there and my uncle (a pro painter also) has commented on how well they worked, but I don't know if they are made to go over galvanized. It was a pro grade product and not something like the HD Behr Ultra or Marquee. The ultra was good when it first came out, as a primer, but in later years it has sucked. I can't see paying $45 a gallon before discount for their paint, so I haven't used it.
 

DIYpaintGUY

New member
Joined
Jan 3, 2017
Messages
1
Location
Missouri
Do not use an oil based primer on galvanized surfaces. It will stick initially but will eventually fall off. Most of the time when you see paint falling off galvanizing this is what happened. It's called saponification. Clean first, knock off any loose residue, and prime or paint with Latex. You could use something like dtm primer/finish from Sherwin Williams and just put on 1 coat and be done.

DIYpaintGUY
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

southalabama

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2011
Messages
5,547
Location
Brewton AL
I'd find a paint distributor that handles industrial coatings. I see the OP is down under so I don't have any recommendations for his location.
 

wssix99

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
5,168
Location
Chicago, IL
Here's a good article on some of the problems. In a nutshell, there are a bunch of chemical reactions that happen between the galvanized metal, it's coatings, and the zinc that will cause the paint to peel. For paint to take, you need to properly prep the surface and use a primer formulated specifically for galvanized metal. https://www.sherwin-williams.com/ho...eeling-cracking/peeling-from-galvanized-metal

Once you do that, you should be able to use normal paints. ^
 

Strouty

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
38,227
Location
Southern Maine
Do not use an oil based primer on galvanized surfaces. It will stick initially but will eventually fall off. Most of the time when you see paint falling off galvanizing this is what happened. It's called saponification. Clean first, knock off any loose residue, and prime or paint with Latex. You could use something like dtm primer/finish from Sherwin Williams and just put on 1 coat and be done.

DIYpaintGUY

I forgot about the DTM, we had good luck with that. Also used a bunch of water based paints, but more for clean up, than anything. I had no idea that the oil based paints were the big issue, but now that I have the correct term for what is happening it makes sense. We always called it soaping, not sure if that is correct, but it seems that the oil based paint and the zinc create a layer of soap between the paint and the steel, then it falls off in sheets or large flakes. So maybe soaping is a slang term used in the industry?
 

jeffro30

Active member
Joined
Aug 25, 2014
Messages
32
Location
O-H
Sher-cryl from Sherwin Williams. Can go straight over galvanized steel.
If you want to prime it use Pro-cryl then top coat with Sher-cryl.

Been in the industrial painting industry for 18 yrs.
 

jdsac

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2011
Messages
565
I'd be afraid of the ceiling "sweating" from the cold and affecting the adhesion.
Don't rely on the guy at the paint store, call Sherwin Williams direct
 

rockettgpw

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 20, 2013
Messages
1,500
Location
Sunshine Coast Qld down under
found this https://ktauniversity.com/saponification-paint-grave/
Saponification of Painted Metallic Surfaces

Metals that have an alkaline surface condition include zinc (galvanizing), copper, magnesium, tin, and lead. Painting over ferrous metals such as mild, carbon, and stainless steels or iron will not cause saponification. Iron in solution does not produce an alkaline environment. A Pourbaix diagram is used to predict the tendency of a metal surface to develop alkaline condition in an aqueous environment. Figure 2 is a Pourbaix diagram that shows the zinc species (compounds) that will be present in the solution. Zinc, being amphoteric, is soluble in acid and base (alkaline) solutions, but the species present will be a function of equilibrium between the zinc species. The passive zone (pH 8.5–10.5) is where a surface layer of zinc hydroxide (ZnOH2) forms and zinc metal corrosion does not occur. It is important to note that this exists within the stable range for water (the area within the dotted lines) while exhibiting a pH level of 8.5 to 10.5. Beyond this region, corrosion occurs at higher pH values and will produce saponification. Recall from Figure 1that it is the hydroxide ions (OH-) that react with the oil, alkyd, or fat to form glycerides and soaps. Excess OH- ions are what makes an aqueous solution basic just as excess H+ ions make a solution acidic. A similar Pourbaix diagram can be drawn for copper, lead, magnesium, and tin metal surfaces in an aqueous (water) environment.
 
OP
Y

yhprum

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2006
Messages
1,408
Location
Brisbane Australia
Thanks all for the excellent info. Cold sweating not a problem where I am. I will check with the paint suppliers for a appropriate primer.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom