lathe bench build suggestions

[sherrod624]

I'm building a table to mount my SB 10k and I'm trying to decide on how to mount this box underneath it. It is a masterhand 52" top box from Tractor supply. My question is do you guys think its ok to only support it on the ends or does it need a "shelf" all the way across?

 

[EdT]

Assuming you're going to fill it up with heavy stuff for your lathe, I would feel more comfortable with some kind of support in the center. Perhaps another piece of the square tubing from front to back and some rods inside the partition that separates the two sides passing through a plate underneath. It would also be good to get something under the edges on the ends so that all the weight is not being supported by a handful of spot welds. I'm not familiar with the cabinet construction, but it's likely designed to be on a bench or something and supported form below so you need to make it think that that's the case.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice. That is going to be sweet.

Mike.

 

[CAOS]

It wouldn't hurt to have another brace. But I would only be concerned about having braces where the factory caster locations were. So if there was a caster in the centre, put a brace.

 

[youngnstudly]

That's a nice bench. I don't know what your plans are for the top, but it will need to be pretty stout to fully support your lathe without drooping. That model lathe is like 500lbs (IIRC). Criss-crossing the supports on both the top and the lower box mount would be wise.

It is important that the lathe sit level on a solid surface. Usually the lathe manufacture will give guidelines as to how they want you to mount it, and what the minimum thickness of material needed is (you probably already knew that, just pointing out the obvious to be...well, Cpt. Obvious). Last thing you want is the ways drooping.

As for the box below, I'd mount it on a full length shelf from the bottom, with the same tubing you're already using (or stouter). I'd tie the legs and your support shelf all together too. For starters, the center of your tool box will be fully supported vs unsupported (that may make opening the drawers difficult when everything is fully loaded down, but maybe not?).

Secondly, all four legs being tied together would help keep the top rigid and flat with the lathe mounted to it. You could even add gussets to the corners for additional support.

Just my 2 cents. Cool project!

Andy

 

[sherrod624]

bench top is 1 1/2 hard rock maple. 30 x 60



while the lathe is heavy, i'd never guess it to be 500lbs here is a poor photo of it



heres a photo of something similar

 

[youngnstudly]

That bench top is nice! I could certainly be wrong about the assembled weight of your lathe, I was going off memory from a few years back.

A coworker had one of those smaller SB lathes delivered to work to save on expensive delivery costs to his house (I thought it was a 10K, but I could be mistaken).

I remember him commenting on the shipping weight and needing to load it in his truck using the forklift. For some reason the number 500 stuck in my mind. I couldn't even believe it when he read the shipping weight off the crate.

Anyways, cool project. Post pics when finished. I wish I had a bigger lathe like that one. That bench is awesome too!

Andy

 

[Boosted1]

Grizzly catalog puts the 10k at 500 pounds.
I was reading through the owners manual last night online and it does stress levelling the lathe to a very tight tolerance. The manual even says you need a level that will discern .001"!

 

[nine4gmc]

Definitely run some tubing across under that box, and between the upper rails for the top to sit on. That lathe sample pic looks similar to the Craftsman 12x36, it comes in at about 300# IIRC.

 

[kkroger]

I would run a piece of tubing under the box front and back with mounting plates to match the original caster pattern.

Maybe if you are going to load it heavy, put a support leg under the middle of the thing.

 

[Hephaestus29]

If it were me, I think I would have also used square tubing on the top instead of angle, it would have been easier to weld in a piece in the middle. But honestly I don't think you'll have a problem with it using that thick Rock Maple. There aren't too many hard woods that are stronger/harder than rock maple, except for maybe Osage Orange or one or two others I don't know of.

 

[Zeke]

It wouldn't hurt to have another brace. But I would only be concerned about having braces where the factory caster locations were. So if there was a caster in the centre, put a brace.

I would run a piece of tubing under the box front and back with mounting plates to match the original caster pattern.

Maybe if you are going to load it heavy, put a support leg under the middle of the thing.

It's a top box as stated on post #1, no casters. Since it IS a top box, it was designed with full bottom support in mind. I'd run at least 2 rails under it.

 

[CAOS]

It's a top box as stated on post #1, no casters. Since it IS a top box, it was designed with full bottom support in mind. I'd run at least 2 rails under it.

Ah yea, I missed that it was a TOP box. My bad.

 

[kkroger]

It's a top box as stated on post #1, no casters. Since it IS a top box, it was designed with full bottom support in mind. I'd run at least 2 rails under it.

OK so Bin the Caster part of my comment and I still maintain a tube under the front of the box and a tube under the back of the box and a tube front to back in the center of the box with support legs under it one front and one back. I would probably also add an angle support on each end front to back. Perhaps a plate on top of those with the box on top of that. Drill the bottom of the box to bolt it down to the plate or the support beams.

 

[buildyourown]

Grizzly catalog puts the 10k at 500 pounds.
I was reading through the owners manual last night online and it does stress levelling the lathe to a very tight tolerance. The manual even says you need a level that will discern .001"!

It's not level that matters, but lack of twist. A level is the easiest way to measure that. A lathe bolted to wood will have pretty poor consistency. It won't be very rigid and as the wood expands and contracts with humidity, it will cut differently.
If you could design some solid steel inserts into the top, it would be worth your time. Especially if you could put jackscrews from the under side for leveling

 

[sherrod624]

It's not level that matters, but lack of twist. A level is the easiest way to measure that.

i was aware of this. not sure if your able to tell but in the lathe pic on the right end you can see a gap. that base pivots on a shaft inline with the bed. you can torque the screws to get the ways in plane. Whether or not my frame w/ top installed is stout enough to handle that torque is debatable. once i get everything together and get the lathe bolted down to the top ill get some better pics. I have limited space at home (12x20) and my lathe is being stored elsewhere for now.

i moved the two side rails up to the right height to attach the cross supports to. wish i had the tool box before i built the frame so i didn't make that mistake. this is just a dry fit up, i think im ready for paint now

i am trying to come up with ideas to fill the openings on the sides. i was thinking if i could find some metal pegboard i could bend up some pans that would recess back into the opening. Any leads on metal pegboard?

 

[aggierailroad]

Looks really nice, very similar to what I'm doing.

Where did you get the feet? I didn't see the metal foot pads when I bought mine.

 

[sherrod624]

Leveling feet from mc master Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/#swivel-leveling-mounts/=vcleiq

Threaded tubing caps for leveling feet
http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-threaded-tube-inserts/=vcmzum

 

[Gator-J]

If you are using a QCTP and will always have access to the left end as it is in the picture, I would consider a rack there to hang tool holders on it.

A plate with a french cleat (or 3) on it would probably work for something simple.