I'm looking for suggestions on the more desirable older metal lathes out there. I've been working with a small hobby lathe and it's time to upgrade. I think somewhere around a 12x36 or slightly larger is what I'm after. Quick gear change for threading is a must. What brands/models are the favorites? I would like USA made, I know southbend is liked. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Lathe suggestions
- Thread starter Doc1976
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
When upgrading I recently sold my 12" x 35" Logan model 2557V for $2500, well tooled with taper attachment, 3 and 4-jaw chucks, qc toolpost and holders, etc. That would be a good one for you.
cvairwerks
Well-known member
Doc: You need to define your planned work size first and then add a percentage to determine what size range you want to be looking for. For example, if the biggest thing you plan on working with is a 10" diameter, you should be looking at something that has the capacity of 14" to 16", which could be a gap bed, or a standard bed lathe. Once you get into those sized lathes, you do need to watch motor data a bit more, as you could be running into machines that are 3 phase and will need to factor that into your consideration.
ATW, Warner Swasey, Rivett, Monarch, LeBlond, Pacemaker and Rockford are all good names. If haven't used it before, lathes.co.uk is a good basic reference on manufactures histories and many of the lathes they produced.
ATW, Warner Swasey, Rivett, Monarch, LeBlond, Pacemaker and Rockford are all good names. If haven't used it before, lathes.co.uk is a good basic reference on manufactures histories and many of the lathes they produced.
MushCreek
Well-known member
I made the mistake of buying an old Summit (Japanese) lathe. It's really stout for a small 11" lathe, but has a number of quirks I don't like. The threaded spindle is a real oddball, and I can't find chuck adapters anywhere. The toolpost is sort of part of the compound slide, so I can't mount a quick-change tool post. The spindle is too small for 5c collets. I mounted a collet chuck to a faceplate that came with it, but that's a poor compromise. My next lathe (I'm always looking) will correct those faults. I'd really like to avoid a threaded spindle nose. In looking at older lathes, parts availability, standard tooling, and overall condition are key. A good brand lathe that's all worn out isn't worth much. Once you get above 13", lathes get really big, heavy, and almost all of them are 3 phase. I see better deals on big lathes simply because they're too big for most people.
DocsMachine
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Most of the SouthBends, Logans and Sheldons you'll run into are going to be 9" to 11". To get above that in those brands, you'll need to find a later/newer model, which will be harder to find and will cost more if you can find one.
Overall, there are hundreds of brands of lathes out there, don't be afraid to buy one just because it's not one of the "popular" models. Yes, parts for some of these can be a problem, but the fact is, there's lathes made today that you can't easily buy parts for. Buy a good working machine, and chances are it won't need much more than bushings or simple repairs.
Several years ago, I picked up a Springfield, a well-regarded brand, that needed extensive work. I found out that parts for it basically don't exist. There aren't many in the first place, and I've never yet seen one parted out. I had to make a couple of my own gears, and modify a compound off another machine for it, among other things, but today it's a fine machine.
3 Phase is not the issue today that it once was. A VFD (variable frequency drive) is relatively inexpensive, runs a 3ph motor off single phase, and gives you fun stuff like infinitely variable speed, dynamic braking and so on. There's also rotary converters, or even static converters.
Honestly, even for a small home shop, a small 3-phase is practically preferable these days.
-American Tool Works, who also made Pacemakers, and LeBlond tend towards fairly large lathes. Great if you can find one (a 14" Pacemaker is basically the ultimate home shop lathe) but keep in mind they can be twelve feet long and weigh six thousand pounds.
Rivetts and the smaller Monarchs all tend to be on the expensive side- again, great if you can get one, but a good Monarch 10EE might start at $5K.
Warner & Swasey never made an engine lathe, they only made turret lathes. They're common and inexpensive, but poorly suited for engine lathe duties. They're great if you need to make sixty or a hundred identical parts, but awkward if you need to make a single part.
Threaded spindles aren't inherently bad, as long as they're a common size, like 1-1/2"-8 or 2-1/4"-8. The larger is preferable, both for strength and, as noted, the ability to take 5C collets. (Very handy- I'm personally a big fan of collets, and 5C is by far the most popular size for lathes.)
And finally, as Mush notes, condition is everything. A clean, low-miles and tight cheap Chinese import is better than an old American brand that's badly worn, damaged and rusty.
Ideally, you'd want a good, fairly common American brand, but don't be afraid of non-Asian imports like Voest, Boxford, Graziano, Emco or Schaublin.
I, personally, have an 11" Logan with a threaded spindle, and a 10" Sheldon with an L-00 spindle. The Sheldon is my main machine, and has done everything I ask of it.
Doc.
Overall, there are hundreds of brands of lathes out there, don't be afraid to buy one just because it's not one of the "popular" models. Yes, parts for some of these can be a problem, but the fact is, there's lathes made today that you can't easily buy parts for. Buy a good working machine, and chances are it won't need much more than bushings or simple repairs.
Several years ago, I picked up a Springfield, a well-regarded brand, that needed extensive work. I found out that parts for it basically don't exist. There aren't many in the first place, and I've never yet seen one parted out. I had to make a couple of my own gears, and modify a compound off another machine for it, among other things, but today it's a fine machine.
3 Phase is not the issue today that it once was. A VFD (variable frequency drive) is relatively inexpensive, runs a 3ph motor off single phase, and gives you fun stuff like infinitely variable speed, dynamic braking and so on. There's also rotary converters, or even static converters.
Honestly, even for a small home shop, a small 3-phase is practically preferable these days.
-American Tool Works, who also made Pacemakers, and LeBlond tend towards fairly large lathes. Great if you can find one (a 14" Pacemaker is basically the ultimate home shop lathe) but keep in mind they can be twelve feet long and weigh six thousand pounds.
Rivetts and the smaller Monarchs all tend to be on the expensive side- again, great if you can get one, but a good Monarch 10EE might start at $5K.
Warner & Swasey never made an engine lathe, they only made turret lathes. They're common and inexpensive, but poorly suited for engine lathe duties. They're great if you need to make sixty or a hundred identical parts, but awkward if you need to make a single part.
Threaded spindles aren't inherently bad, as long as they're a common size, like 1-1/2"-8 or 2-1/4"-8. The larger is preferable, both for strength and, as noted, the ability to take 5C collets. (Very handy- I'm personally a big fan of collets, and 5C is by far the most popular size for lathes.)
And finally, as Mush notes, condition is everything. A clean, low-miles and tight cheap Chinese import is better than an old American brand that's badly worn, damaged and rusty.
Ideally, you'd want a good, fairly common American brand, but don't be afraid of non-Asian imports like Voest, Boxford, Graziano, Emco or Schaublin.
I, personally, have an 11" Logan with a threaded spindle, and a 10" Sheldon with an L-00 spindle. The Sheldon is my main machine, and has done everything I ask of it.
Doc.
bctexas
Well-known member
In case you haven't seen it, here is a write-up on how to evaluate a used lathe:
He also wrote an article on the usefulness of a somewhat less than perfect lathe:
My first lathe was a 9 inch South Bend from 1936. It needed rewiring, lots of cleaning and a little paint. It was pretty worn, but I learned a lot running it, and managed to turn out some useful parts in addition to having a great deal of fun. When I was finally in the position to upgrade, I went with a new 14x36 from Precision Matthews and sold the South Bend. The vastly increased rigidity and power compared to the 85 year old South Bend is really wonderful.
Good luck!
He also wrote an article on the usefulness of a somewhat less than perfect lathe:
My first lathe was a 9 inch South Bend from 1936. It needed rewiring, lots of cleaning and a little paint. It was pretty worn, but I learned a lot running it, and managed to turn out some useful parts in addition to having a great deal of fun. When I was finally in the position to upgrade, I went with a new 14x36 from Precision Matthews and sold the South Bend. The vastly increased rigidity and power compared to the 85 year old South Bend is really wonderful.
Good luck!
MBfreak
MEMBER EMERITUS
I bought a Soviet monster, a Profila 1K62 back in 20015. Best lathe I have ever used, apart from a Swedish Rosenfors tool-room lathe.
But you need a solid floor and space. Motor was 3ph, 500 V 10,6 kW , we run it on 380 V with 16 A slo blu fuses.
12,5 to 2400 rpm, motor drive on x and y, MK5 in tailstock.
Extremely well made, runout was 0,004 mm. The feed gearbox system was fantastic , from 0,04mm/turn to 176 mm/turn.
176?? Yes , of course you need that if you want to make a 50 mm drillbit!
Sold it 4 years ago, got an offer of 5 times what I had in it.
Ola
But you need a solid floor and space. Motor was 3ph, 500 V 10,6 kW , we run it on 380 V with 16 A slo blu fuses.
12,5 to 2400 rpm, motor drive on x and y, MK5 in tailstock.
Extremely well made, runout was 0,004 mm. The feed gearbox system was fantastic , from 0,04mm/turn to 176 mm/turn.
176?? Yes , of course you need that if you want to make a 50 mm drillbit!
Sold it 4 years ago, got an offer of 5 times what I had in it.
Ola
ez-duzit
Well-known member
A rotary phase converter is sometimes a better choice than a VFD, depending on the lathe.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
This subject has been beat to death on this forum and many others.. a search will bring up plenty of info and even more opinions.
I will add, there are plenty of other good lathes out there other than/in addition to made in USA.
I will add, there are plenty of other good lathes out there other than/in addition to made in USA.
dutchgray
Well-known member
Yes, many desirable German, British, Swiss, Japanese lathe makes out there.
You could spend a lifetime reading up on lathe makers and still only know a fraction of the brands and models out there.
I would say get a common brand if possible, if not for the possibility of spares availability either new or from a broken machine, for the knowledge base out there for the more common machines.
I have two lathes, a small French made 11" by 22" lathe which is a good heavy lathe with 4hp motor, but it is extremely rare and there is no parts, almost no information available (I haven't found an English manual in a year and a half of looking) and it uses a non standard L taper spindle nose that backplates do not exist fot.
My other lathe is a Deen Smith and Grace 13" by 42", one of the finest English made machines you could get and a proper industrial machine, it has a standard D1-6 spindle nose weighs 5100 lbs and is 5hp, they made thousands so whilst its not as common as some, you can get some parts, there is plenty of information available, I was able to buy a travelling steady for it off Ebay,
I would say buy the best condition and most tooled up lathe you can find within a distance you are willing to travel that is the size you think you need and is within your budget.
If something better comes along later you can always buy that and sell the first, or have two lathes.
If you decide on an exact machine you want to get you may be waiting a long time for one to be available to buy.
DocsMachine
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-Indeed. Rotaries can in some cases be slightly less expensive, too.
If your machine (lathe, mill, grinder, sheep shearer, hamster-mulcher, whatever) has a 5HP or less single speed motor, generally the VFD is usually the best setup. Not always the cheapest, but it's usually not much more than a good rotary.
There are, of course, machines where you don't need variable speed or dynamic braking, like on a surface grinder. Although even here a VFD usually provides more precise power- the three "legs" are better balanced than with a rotary, and on a surface grinder, that slight imbalance can show up in the surface finish.
If you have a two-speed motor, like some Arboga and similar drill presses, and few lathes (my Warner & Swasey turret lathe has a 2.5/5 HP "consequent pole" motor) the a rotary is the preferred choice. Most VFDs don't like having switches or contactors in between them and the motor. That CP motor, because of the way the windings are wired, basically can't use a VFD- at least not directly. I'd basically just have to use it to feed the normal contactors, and not all VFDs will put up with that.
I have nine machines in the shop run on individual VFDs (of four different brands) and two run off a 10HP rotary. I much prefer the VFds.
Doc.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
My mill is currently powered by a static phase converter, which works great, but will soon be transferred to the small RPC. My new 20 hp RPC, whose install is nearly complete, will power my big lathe only (10 hp, 18" x 51" Okuma LS). And I have several other 3-phase machines (vertical bandsaw, 24" disc sander, oscillating spindle sander, stationary buffer, ring bender) slated to run on a 3 hp (IIRC) RPC, which is installed but not yet tested.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
My '92 Taiwanese lathe has a threaded nose. It seemed pretty odd ball, until I switched to metric. It was German DIN standard.
I have a 10" Clausing and a 17" Leblond. I use my Leblond 95% of the time. The Clausing has almost 0 wear but the Leblond has more friendly controls and the chuck is a L0 mount. I can spin the lathe backwards without having to worry the chuck will come off. I highly recommend finding a lathe with an L mount or D lock.
MushCreek
Well-known member
^This^. Threaded chucks are fine, but I had the chuck come off of my old WWII era Leblond. That was interesting.
Maui
Well-known member
You will be limited to what your budget is and what is available locally. So you can go through the process of identifying exactly what it is you want, but if it is too expensive or you can’t find one where you are, then you’ll have to settle for what you can get. For what its worth, Logan is still in business and their lathes are well regarded by many. And although I don’t disagree with this that was said earlier, “Rivetts and the smaller Monarchs all tend to be on the expensive side- again, great if you can get one, but a good Monarch 10EE might start at $5K.” I’ll say it now - you don’t need a Monarch 10ee.
DocsMachine
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-For what it's worth, I'm a full-time machinist specializing in one-off parts, and I haven't used reverse on any of my lathes in years. Last time I did was an internal thread to a shoulder- it was safer "pulling out" than "cutting in". Did that on the L-00 Sheldon.
It's also worth noting that if you're using collets with a drawtube (and not a collet chuck) you can use reverse with a threaded spindle, because of course nothing is threaded to the spindle except a protector sleeve.
-Logan is only "in business" as far as they still have a small supply of parts and spares. New lathes haven't been available since the 80s, and the parts they have are generally fabulously expensive. (I was quoted around $1,500 for an 11" tailstock.)
That said, Logan made a great many lathes, and there's thousands still out there. Parts are plentiful on places like eBay, and they're generally an ideal size and capability for a small shop.
-Entirely true. Deals can still occasionally be found, however- a good running 10EE that just needs a thorough cleaning for, say, $3,500 would be a pretty decent one.
Don't count on finding such a thing, though.
Doc.
Ign
Well-known member
I love turning cast and brass in reverse with a LH holder. Spray all that **** down to the chip tray rather at your face
I will echo the "don't get fixated on a South Bend" comments. They are good home shop lathes but suffer somewhat from widespread name identification which leads to price enhancement.
When I was looking for a lathe I had used them occasionally at work for decades so I had at least a decent knowledge of what to look for. Being a contrarian I tend to get things not in the mainstream. I ended up with a Weiler Matador that sat on CL for about 7-10 days before I inquired about it. Paid $1500 for the German toolroom lathe that is considerably higher in quality and capability than the typical SB or Logan that home shoppers seek out. The flip side is parts are non-existent in the US although widely available in Europe.
When I was looking for a lathe I had used them occasionally at work for decades so I had at least a decent knowledge of what to look for. Being a contrarian I tend to get things not in the mainstream. I ended up with a Weiler Matador that sat on CL for about 7-10 days before I inquired about it. Paid $1500 for the German toolroom lathe that is considerably higher in quality and capability than the typical SB or Logan that home shoppers seek out. The flip side is parts are non-existent in the US although widely available in Europe.
Weiler Matador Lathe
Weiler Matador Lathe<br>German Precision lathe<br>Conventional German high-precision lathe<br>German Drehbank Prazision
www.lathes.co.uk
I've been watching the popular online selling sites that i know of and I'm seeing quite a selection. Although most Logans and southbends and the like are either in the 2500 to 4000 range or they are obviously well used and most likely abused and in need of much work. I think I want to keep my budget under 2000, closer to 1500. I've got my eye on an atlas that looks to be very lightly used. I think for my needs it would fit the bill. I know the serious machinists don't like the flat ways or the threaded arbor but I feel condition for my money is the better way to go. I build custom vintage style minibikes so axles and bushings and the like are my most common needs. I just want the capability to be able to do larger work if needed as well as small side jobs for customers at my work.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
That is just bottom feeding. Be patient.
Guess you don't think much of the atlas.
The problem with an Atlas lathe is that the bed is flat. Makes it more difficult to make precision parts. For most people it'll do good enough but for the same money you can buy a Clausing, Sheldon, Logan or Leblond lathe.
I bought my Clausing 4914 for $250 and my 17x54 Leblond Regal for $700. Deals are out there but you have to be quick and sometimes right place, right time.
I bought my Clausing 4914 for $250 and my 17x54 Leblond Regal for $700. Deals are out there but you have to be quick and sometimes right place, right time.
I'm not sure what part of the country you're in but I've been watching for over a year now off and on and have never seen deals like those. There's a clausing same model as yours I saw yesterday 2 states away for 3500. Arizona must just be really expensive, im looking all over the western side of the country and still no deals like that unless they are solid rust from sitting outside.
DocsMachine
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I deal with the same thing in Alaska. Used ones simply don't come up for sale up here, and on the third alternate blue moon when one does appear, the seller is asking twice, if not three times, what one's worth elsewhere.
That said, an Atlas is scraping the bottom of the barrel. I've had one, and an import Grizzly 9x20, and I'd rather have the Grizzly. $1,500 could get you one, likely delivered, new in the box.
That said, as the saying goes, any lathe is better than no lathe. There was a time- admittedly quite a while ago - where I'd have loved to have an Atlas. Or really, any lathe. If the Atlas is all that's available, get it, read up on the many online sources about tuning and even modifying it, use it, learn from it, and always keep your eye open for a replacement.
Doc.
That said, an Atlas is scraping the bottom of the barrel. I've had one, and an import Grizzly 9x20, and I'd rather have the Grizzly. $1,500 could get you one, likely delivered, new in the box.
That said, as the saying goes, any lathe is better than no lathe. There was a time- admittedly quite a while ago
- where I'd have loved to have an Atlas. Or really, any lathe. If the Atlas is all that's available, get it, read up on the many online sources about tuning and even modifying it, use it, learn from it, and always keep your eye open for a replacement.Doc.
I've been watching for lathes up here (the non-USA north lol) for a couple years...ONE, just ONE has ever come up that was worth the money but was already spoken for by the time I saw it and messaged the seller. Everything else is rusted sitting outside beat to **** for many thousands more than they're worth. I guess the only other reasonably priced ones are the GIANT 3 phase multi-ton lathes that are too big for a home garage.I deal with the same thing in Alaska. Used ones simply don't come up for sale up here, and on the third alternate blue moon when one does appear, the seller is asking twice, if not three times, what one's worth elsewhere.
That said, an Atlas is scraping the bottom of the barrel. I've had one, and an import Grizzly 9x20, and I'd rather have the Grizzly. $1,500 could get you one, likely delivered, new in the box.
That said, as the saying goes, any lathe is better than no lathe. There was a time- admittedly quite a while ago
Doc.
cvairwerks
Well-known member
Just get a bigger garage....
ez-duzit
Well-known member
This is surely the problem. When you get serious about buying a lathe you will find yourself checking all the likely sources several times a day, without fail. When "a deal" shows up you must first recognize it as a deal and be prepared to be the first to respond, not begin researching to find out what others think about that particular lathe.
It is important, when responding to such an ad, to tell the seller that you want to buy the lathe. That puts you first in line to buy. Make immediate arrangements to meet for the purpose of completing the transaction. That is the time to see what he's selling and make any negotiations, not over the phone.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
It's not hard to come up with a list of decent machines which have some sort of parts support ie company still around, supply of nos parts, etc. It would be a short list by the time you discounted any pos made in china/Taiwan hobby lathes. When you see one the correct size, jump on it.
Maui
Well-known member
I have been rebuilding metal lathes for years. Each one has their intended applications and uses, and South Bend, Atlas, Logan, Clausing, Hardinge, Stark, etc. all made good quality machines that performed quite well when operated within their intended envelop or limits. I remember holding a tolerance of 0.0002” on the outside diameter of a steel backing plate for a four jaw chuck while turning it on a Craftsman 109 bench lathe that I was restoring. And this is a much maligned lathe by many people on the internet, but you can still do quality work on it if you know what you are doing. What you are able to accomplish on a lathe often has more to do with your understanding and ability as an operator rather than the limits of the machine. Many people don’t appreciate this as much as they should.
DocsMachine
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-This. Right here. If you're in a "machine desert" type of area, and you're serious about picking up a machine, you need money on hand, and a regular daily cycle of checking CL, FBMP, Kajiji, your local Pennysaver, whatever. Be ready to pounce if a decent machine and decent deal shows up.
I know not everyone can take off from work to drive two hours away to look at a lathe, but as noted, if it's a low-supply, high-demand area, you won't have the luxury of taking your time to research if that machine is "right" for you.
Over the years I've missed at least three good lathes because I dawdled. The ones I did, were ones... well, nobody else was going to buy.
One had been outside in the Alaska weather for many years and needed major work to restore, another was overpriced by about 50%, and a third was a turret lathe that basically no one else wanted.Doc.
dutchgray
Well-known member
Your budget of $1500 to $2000 is not really enough, anything worth having in that price range in an area where machines are rare will sell near instantly.
I would consider a new Taiwanese lathe, if you wanted to get something now, not a hobby machine but a small industrial one, but I expect you would have to treble or quadruple your budget.
Really big old lathes tend to be cheap because industry often no longer has much use for them and very few home shop types can move, house or power them.
I have seen good old lathes, made post WW2, say 25" swing and 10' between centres or bigger offered for free to collection by anyone who isn't going to scrap it, because they aren't actually worth the cost of transport.
This isn't the case if the machine has a high rpm spindle or a very large spindle bore, those machines are still worth a small fortune.
I have also seen perfectly useable post WW2 lathes get dumped into a roll on scrap bin straight off the bridge crain that pulled them out of where they used to work, the value of the building is such that almost no time is given to trying to sell the old machines sometimes.
I would consider a new Taiwanese lathe, if you wanted to get something now, not a hobby machine but a small industrial one, but I expect you would have to treble or quadruple your budget.
Really big old lathes tend to be cheap because industry often no longer has much use for them and very few home shop types can move, house or power them.
I have seen good old lathes, made post WW2, say 25" swing and 10' between centres or bigger offered for free to collection by anyone who isn't going to scrap it, because they aren't actually worth the cost of transport.
This isn't the case if the machine has a high rpm spindle or a very large spindle bore, those machines are still worth a small fortune.
I have also seen perfectly useable post WW2 lathes get dumped into a roll on scrap bin straight off the bridge crain that pulled them out of where they used to work, the value of the building is such that almost no time is given to trying to sell the old machines sometimes.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
My dream lathe came up in a government auction, a 1340 Standard Modern. The head had been run out of oil so that was the reason for it's sale. So new expensive bearing, so what. I bid fairly high, I came in third. On CL a RF-45 mill/drill and a Taiwanese DF1224g showed up and I immediately phoned and ended up paying $1750 for the pair. I valued the RF-45 at $ 1500. That $250 lathe is perfect for me. The floorprint isn't any bigger than my son's 250mmx550mm (10x22)and it's a much better lathe. I'm hitting half a thou, and I'll credit the lathe. I know of one guy who used both the DF1236 and a SB Heavy Ten, and liked the DF1236 better. He has since moved on from a 1000# class to a 2000#.
The late '90s belt drive Taiwanese generic lathes are good lathes. Mine is a BusyBee but Grizzly and everybody else sold them.
The late '90s belt drive Taiwanese generic lathes are good lathes. Mine is a BusyBee but Grizzly and everybody else sold them.
Ricky Joe
Well-known member
I’ve got an old Dalton. It has worked good enough for me. Let me know if you are interested.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
dutchgray has it right.. mo money.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Don't forget "Offerup". I got this Okuma LS from an offerup ad for $2500, including 3 & 4-jaw chucks, steady rest and taper attachment.
It sounds like it may just be about patience and lots of looking, already in progress. Everyone really seems to be down on the Atlas, but I'm yet to read any specific examples of what is so bad about them? is it just the overall rigidity or what? Or is it just when compared to a $5000 Logan or Sheldon it is ****? If you ask the owner of a Ferrari what they think of the track performance of a Chevy Camaro I'm sure they would tell you its bottom of the barrel. But if you have been driving a Ford mini van, that same Camaro is the best performing thing around. Keep in mind that I am upgrading from a Harbor Freight 7x12 and I am by no means a professional machinist nor aspire to be. I'm not building aircraft parts here. I just want to be able to expand my knowledge and skills from where they are. there has to be a couple of steps between the Harbor Freight junk and the machines you guys all run. I may have asked in a place a little above my weight class here, it sounds as though you are all Ferrari drivers. No Offense intended, I just feel there must be acceptable options in the middle that everyone seems to have grown past.
When I was a little younger I got into bass fishing. I had a real neat opportunity to talk with a pro fisherman once, and I asked what would be be best rig to get started in the sport. by the time we were done he had me thinking I needed a new nitro boat, 35K in name brand rods reels and takle. Come to find out, a 15 year old used bass tracker, and a bunch of rods and reels and tackle with bass pro on them for a couple hundred bucks caught me fish all day long.
Thanks for all the responses, its all being taken to heart.
When I was a little younger I got into bass fishing. I had a real neat opportunity to talk with a pro fisherman once, and I asked what would be be best rig to get started in the sport. by the time we were done he had me thinking I needed a new nitro boat, 35K in name brand rods reels and takle. Come to find out, a 15 year old used bass tracker, and a bunch of rods and reels and tackle with bass pro on them for a couple hundred bucks caught me fish all day long.
Thanks for all the responses, its all being taken to heart.
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ez-duzit
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Unsubscribed.