Lathe "tools" for a novice?

[ujmchris]

I just picked up my first lathe. It's a craftsman 109, (I know, small spindle, poor casting, yada yada yada... but the price was really right.) Anyway, my question is what sort of tools should I be acquiring that will be either necessary or greatly help me out? I'm not talking about cutting tools here, more like measuring, setup, prep sort of tools. I'm in the process of designing the bench that this will be going on and want to make sure I have dedicated spots for everything I'll need.

Here is what I have already:
-2 decent quality 0-6" calipers (1 digital, 1 dial)
-0-1" dial indicator with magnetic base
-hex T-handles
-combo wrenches
-screwdrivers
-thread pitch gauge
-tap wrenches
-chuck key

I plan on using my bullet casting setup to make a small lead hammer

What other sort of setup/measuring tools would be helpful?
Also, any suggestions on good intro lathe books would be appreciated.

 

[RodneyPierce]

You already have a good start it seems. A good machinist angle finder, and a good quality short (6" or less) small ruler. mine goes down to 1/32's. A quick change tool post is a must!

 

[Outlawmws]

What tooling came with the Lathe? 3 jaw and 4 jaw chucks? live and dead centers? drive plate and dog(s)? Tool post(s) Tool bits?

Primary book for any machinist: Machinery's handbook. Any edition will do (Used book store?), especially for a lathe as old as a 109. that is your primary REFERENCE book; for how to's get an older 40 or 50's book on machine tools use, those are far more "practical" as written and aimed at hands on use instead of theory.

 

[larry_g]

A dial test indicator, DTI, you will use this for centering items in the chuck. The 0-1' indicator is more for measuring and the DTI is for indicating relative difference. Also a grinder with a proper wheel for sharpening cutters. Instead of the dial calipers I would suggest a decent micrometer or two.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Luke G]

First and foremost safety glasses! I can't count how many times ive had hot chips melt into mine (better than en eye!).

I would add some rolls of abrasives for smoothing out finishes and some small files (with handles!!!) for deburing parts.

Also, lathe tooling depends very heavily on what you are trying to make. I think the above suggestions are great for basic tooling, and then add as your skills and technique change.

 

[RodneyPierce]

Luke, cant believe I forgot to add a set of files in there! I cant think of a single time my lathe spindle turns, that I dont use a file to debur an edge or something of the sort. Great suggestion! And the safety glasses, I have 3 pair setting right on my lathe bench. So I never have an excuse to not put a set on. I make sure I have 3 pair there, because sooner or later, Im ending up with only one pair, then know its time to go track down the other 2.

Another great piece of advise, is to make sure the chuck key NEVER LEAVES YOUR HAND unless your setting it down on the bench. This was the first thing taught to me, and its a life saver. Turn that lathe on with the chuck key in there, and it can instantly become a projectile.

 

[rsanter]

you have everything you need to get started, start playing with the thing and depending on what you do you will figure out what you need.

but
to me I would look at upgrading the toolpost and getting carbide insert tooling

you can look at some plans on the net and use the machine to make a modified lantern toolpost that will work well or just buy one of the kits for a more stable toolpost

for the bench dont waste your time. go buy the 40'' toolbox from HF and that will be your base and tooling storage

the other thing is that I have sets of drill bits that only get used on the lathe and mill. this assures they are straight and dont have chewed shanks which will greatly effect precision in your machine

bob

 

[Luke G]

Well, ****! I forgot about the chuck key advice. I was going to mention seeing several embeded in the wall behind lathes in the shop!

One shop I saw while in school had special chuck keys with springs on them that would eject from the chuck when not being pushed into the chuck. They were a pain in the **** to use, but the shop instructer was sure glad to not have chuck keys flying all over the place!

Must have nerves of steel to teach shop classes...

 

[Milton Shaw]

Center drills, dead and live centers, center finder, thread files (all three with 8 pitches on each). Are some of the things I use the most frequently. A steady rest if the lathe did not come with one. MSC Catalog for all the cutters, bolts, tooling drills, and mscdirect bookmarked on your computer.

 

[Steevo]

A "No Morons Allowed" sign, to keep these guys away from your lathe:

 

[RodneyPierce]

WOW! Yeah, def keep idiots like that away from all of your tools!

 

[Outlawmws]

I have this framed and ready to go up in my garage as soon as I can find (make) a piece of wall bare enough to put it up...


But you can't help he Maroons of the world...

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Larry hit it spot on, the test indicator is way more useful than a plunge indicator. Depending on the size of the parts you intend to make, get micrometers up to the size required. I prefer mics that read to 0.0001" but if you're not doing really accurate stuff, 0.001" mics are good.

While carbide tool holders are handy for ease of swapping inserts, a small lathe like yours isn't rigid enough or have enough horsepower to push carbides where they like to work. Stick with HSS lathe inserts and get good at grinding them.

A dial test indicator, DTI, you will use this for centering items in the chuck. The 0-1' indicator is more for measuring and the DTI is for indicating relative difference. Also a grinder with a proper wheel for sharpening cutters. Instead of the dial calipers I would suggest a decent micrometer or two.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[TAftw]

If it still has a standard type tool post, get it the hell off there and get a quick change.

Lathes are awesome, show pics of the hammer you make .

 

[ujmchris]

thanks for all the replies...
Here is what I got with the lathe:
4 jaw chuck
change gears
dead center
drive plate and one dog
blank/unthreaded drive plate (to mount a 3 jaw on?)
a MT center for wood
a few misc hss tools

things I have that were mentioned: files (will be getting more), safety glasses (multiple pairs), misc drills and taps.

QCTP is in the works as is live center

As far as the bench goes, I thought about the HF box, but woodworking is another hobby of mine and I have most everything cut for the cabinet already... I'm out about $45 so far and I think its going to be very nice.

 

[Rust]

A "No Morons Allowed" sign, to keep these guys away from your lathe:

would have been more hillarious if he got seriously hurt

 

[lestat]

Carriage stop, carriage lock.

A height gauge is nice to have if you switch tools around in your QCTP. I made one out of a standard digital caliper and it only takes 30 secs to adjust the tool holder to the right height. There is a predefined value for centre height which is always the same.

A chop saw is a must, you save a lot of hassle and time by trimming your stock to size. Wait till you get to parting

'Miniature' boring bar, you can get tools that go down to 6mm hole diameter.

Cutting fluid.

 

[TireTracks]

If it still has a standard type tool post, get it the hell off there and get a quick change.

Lathes are awesome, show pics of the hammer you make .

Why do you all hate standard tool posts? we have one on our Old craftsman, and I swear it's less of a pain in the *** to use than my grandpa's newer lathe, with a quick change.

 

[Provincial]

I'm suprised no one has mentioned the "Craftsman (or Atlas) Manual of Lathe Operation" as a basic reference. While it was intended for owners of Atlas 10 and 12 inch lathes, it has so much useful practical information, such as how to grind tool bits for specific materials, that it gets used in my shop all the time. Machinery's Handbook has all sorts of detailed information that makes it valuable, but it assumes that the reader knows the basics.

It is likely that the Craftsman/Atlas manual was intended to be a textbook for school metal shop classes, as well as home study for individual owner/operators.

 

[Punkinhead]

I assume you have a bench grinder. Get a soft aluminum oxide wheel for it since the wheels that come with most grinders are too hard so they cut too slow and load up. Woodworking stores are a good place to find the right wheel. Learn to grind HSS tools. Don't bother with carbide - it's meant for production lathes where they take heavy cuts that your lathe isn't capable of. Plus carbide chips easily, especially with intermittent cuts. Get a copy of "How to Run a Lathe" by South Bend. It explains the basic operations and how to grind tools.

 

[Kenwc]

After you get all your tools....watch this video. Best I've seen for the basics. There are more good vids there on using a lathe as well.

http://techtv.mit.edu/genres/24-how-to/videos/144-machine-shop-8

 

[Steevo]

As much as I like and enjoy the GJ forum, there are a couple of others you might consider joining for advice on machining and machine tools.

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/content.php

These are both novice-friendly sites, unlike most machining forums.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Congratulations on your new lathe. They are a lot of fun. I bought a Southbend Heavy 10 a couple of years ago and it's become an obsession.

As to what you need next?

You need a milling machine.

Phil

 

[Ric in Richmond]

How to run a lathe:

http://books.google.com/books?id=Ks...ook_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CGMQ6AEwBA

Machinerys handbook:

http://books.google.com/books?id=mT...ook_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CFEQ6AEwAA

Lots of free ebooks on lathe:

https://www.google.com/search?tbo=p....,cf.osb&fp=59f6dc3de8d5d0cf&biw=1066&bih=529


SO much good stuff for free on google books!!!

Ric

 

[outcast]

A "No Morons Allowed" sign, to keep these guys away from your lathe: