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Lathe Value?

p51stang

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Hi All,
Longtime reader/lurker, first post. Great stuff on this forum, btw :thumbup:
I've been itching to get a lathe based on some of the threads here. Heading to look at one tomorrow and wondering what folks here think it might be worth? I have a couple pics, hopefully I can figure out how to post them. Thanks for any opinions :)
 

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nine4gmc

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Depends a lot on condition and tooling. Looks like drill chucks are there, waht about 3 or 4 jaw chucks, centers, anything else included? That said, it's worth $2-300 EASILY in parts alone with the QCGB and belt covers, carriage, etc.
 

zkling

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Where are you located, roughly? Machine tool value is a combo of local market (hence location), condition of the machine, and accessories included.

Yes, that is a great airplane. ;) :beer:
 
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p51stang

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Thanks for the quick replies :) I'm in the midwest rust belt country :)
I figured from reading other posts that a lot would depend on tooling/accessories etc and hard to tell if any of that is there from the pictures.

@zkling-its my favorite warbird. Just saw a bunch of them at Oshkosh air show in July :)
 

larry_g

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I would say that is an $800 lathe but would bet the asking price is in the $1200 to 1500 range.

lg
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zkling

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@zkling-its my favorite warbird. Just saw a bunch of them at Oshkosh air show in July :)

Ahhhh. You made it this year? I hate you (super jelous ;)) How was it? Me and a friend went last year, so awesome. Didn't really have the time or extra $ to do it this year unfortunately. We are like ~1k miles round trip, so the gas this year was really going to add up. Plus the entrance and camp $ on top of that.

I go to run, but will write more on the lathe later. If you know someone knowledgeable about lathes take them with you to inspect. They are decent machines, just not super rigid. Again all really depends on tooling. It looks to be in good condition, and the quick change is a plus. That lathe was actually made by Atlas IIRC. I wouldn't go over $900-1000 unless it came with a bunch of machining accessories. Sadly they seem to have more of a collector value than a user value. :beer:

Do you know what they are asking for it? PM me if you don't want it out on the forum. Any other pics? Drawers open?
 
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justanengineer

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I would say that is an $800 lathe but would bet the asking price is in the $1200 to 1500 range.

Larry's spot on. Personally, if youre in the midwest and willing to travel 100+ miles between the major cities/industry here you can do a lot better for less. Its a flat way, lightly built hobbyist machine at best, but the one redeeming quality is that Cman/Atlas lathes have a following amongst hobbyists and command a pretty high price for what they are.
 
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p51stang

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The two pics are all I have to go on. Thanks everyone for the info. I'll report back more after I see it. I'm really just after a hobby lathe for now and the values you have provided help quite a bit.

@zkling: I was only able to be at Oshkosh for a day, but I'll attach some mustang pix for you! ;-)
 

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p51stang

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btw, I'm primarily looking for a lathe for metalwork, but no reason I could not use it to make nylon bushings like those in the attached picture, correct?
 

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zkling

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Great pics!!! I took so many last year. Even took a video of the fireworks show and the wall of fire. Such a great experience. We got in real late friday so they let us in the show for free, then camped and spent the entire day sat at the show. I couldn't get over how loud the T-6's were.

Anyway....

It is a good hobby/model maker lathe. If you can get it cheap enough it will be a good first lathe and still capable of making quite a few common parts. You will be able to learn the basics and then move to a larger machine later on if need be. With that said, it is just not a rigid as a larger machine. Which limits how deep of a cut in certain materials you can take. If you have the room and capability to handle a larger (heavier) more industrial machine I would definitely go that route. The smaller lathes are very appealing to DIY guys because they are easy to move and setup.

Those bushings will be nothing for that lathe. Where you are going to get into trouble is if you plan on chucking up 2"+ solids of steel and thinking you are going to remove material at a fast pace with a good surface finish.
 
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Outlawmws

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Check the ways VERY carefully on that one. with the two drill chucks it may have been setup for some specialized center less grinding? is the tail stock chuck setup for spinning or locked down for drilling?

If it was used for grinding, look at the way's VERY carefully, as the spent grinding media can really chew things up.

That is also a VERY OLD Atlas built Craftsman Note the "Long C" craftsman logo on the quick change. at earliest I'd guess WWII era.

If well cared for, it could be a great buy, but I think Larry called the value very well, other than that is probably on the high side for your area.

Yes it will cut nylon. You will have some fun leaning how to do it well. Delrin is much preferred as an easier to machine plastic, but may not have the finished properties you want.
 

ritzblitz

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Those bushings will be nothing for that lathe. Where you are going to get into trouble is if you plan on chucking up 2"+ solids of steel and thinking you are going to remove material at a fast pace with a good surface finish.

This.

Heavy cuts bring these little guys down fast. I have a south bend 10K and I can take .100" cuts in 304 in back gear. That's about the best I can get it to do. Then I take a finish cut with a different tool to make it nice.

You should be able to hold within .0005" on that machine all day(with the small dials), which is good enough for your average stuff. I made a vise handle and was pleasantly surprised with how the machine worked. I am used to a hardinge hlv-h which is a godly lathe. The south bend is just slower, but it does the job. Your atlas should be fine as long as the ways are half decent and the operator is half decent.

The weird drill chuck setup doesn't indicate centerless grinding, who knows what it was for. I've never seen a drill chuck used for a live center. I doubt that one was but let us know.
 
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OccupantRJ

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That looks like the model I gave to my son. Be aware that it likely has a two-to-one ratio on the crossfeed lead screw. In other words, when you adjust the dial to .010, it will be cutting .020 off the part. With that being said, I could sell that lathe all day long around here for $1,000, and potential buyers would fight over it.
 

Monkey Milk

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Sorry I"m new to the game so there is not much I can say but when I see a good condition lathe (paint) and has the original legs and maybe the original table it's going to be some bucks!

About the two chuck set up, he could have been cutting an armature for a motor? Saw mrpete222 do it in one of his videos. But like I said, I'm new in the game and take it from other members who know way way more then me.
 
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rsanter

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Often the lates I see that were set up with the 2 chucks were used for turning armatures.
The chuck in the tail stock would be set just loose enough to slip on thenbearing surface

Bob
 

larry_g

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Often the lates I see that were set up with the 2 chucks were used for turning armatures.
The chuck in the tail stock would be set just loose enough to slip on thenbearing surface

Bob

This is the best answer on the chucks. If you have the armature set the tailstock will have brass jaws for the bearing qualities. Headstock chucks like that are very desirable and the prices reflect that.

lg
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Steinmetz

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That looks like the model I gave to my son. Be aware that it likely has a two-to-one ratio on the crossfeed lead screw. In other words, when you adjust the dial to .010, it will be cutting .020 off the part. With that being said, I could sell that lathe all day long around here for $1,000, and potential buyers would fight over it.

Most lathes (such as this one) are direct-reading.
 

1982fxr

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Check the ways VERY carefully on that one. with the two drill chucks it may have been setup for some specialized center less grinding? is the tail stock chuck setup for spinning or locked down for drilling?

If it was used for grinding, look at the way's VERY carefully, as the spent grinding media can really chew things up.

That is also a VERY OLD Atlas built Craftsman Note the "Long C" craftsman logo on the quick change. at earliest I'd guess WWII era.

If well cared for, it could be a great buy, but I think Larry called the value very well, other than that is probably on the high side for your area.

Yes it will cut nylon. You will have some fun leaning how to do it well. Delrin is much preferred as an easier to machine plastic, but may not have the finished properties you want.

Outlaw, it's that old? I was under the impression that that quick change box came out in like 1952-53ish?? EDIT: or is it not original to that particular lathe?

OP, if it works good that would probably go for up to $1,500 out here in the desert.
 
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p51stang

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So, its at an estate auction and I got here late :( it was already sold ($240). Still here now but will post some pix of some other unbelievable deals. I found the buyer and might be able to work a deal with him. I'll post an update later.
 

ritzblitz

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Good luck.

Nice information about turning armatures. But wouldn't you wear out the taper in the tail stock doing it that way? It seems wrong.
 
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p51stang

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So,....****. If I'd been about 20-30 minutes earlier....:willy_nil
The craftsman lathe was the only thing I was interested in until I got there and found out there was a grizzly lathe, grizzly band saw, and a bridgeport (single phase wired). They were all sold by the time I got there. prices were unbelievable even if you add in the 10% auction premium. The craftsman lathe was $240, the grizzly was $300, the grizzly band saw $85, and the bridgeport $550. I've attached some pics below. Hopefully another auction like this will come along again....
 

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larry_g

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Good luck.

Nice information about turning armatures. But wouldn't you wear out the taper in the tail stock doing it that way? It seems wrong.

It does not spin in the taper. If you look at the picture above you can see where the brass jaws are round on the inside. You do not clamp tight to the armature but just bring them down to a slip fit. Think of it as a steady rest in the tailstock. There are also chucks that have a bearing between the taper adapter and the chuck allowing the chuck to spin freely.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Zeke

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I'd rather go to an estate auction than sale. More people get a chance rather than the first through the door. Around here it's crazy with hour long waits.

For junk.

Good deals on those machines.
 

justanengineer

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So,....****. If I'd been about 20-30 minutes earlier....:willy_nil

Always helps to be on time. :p Seriously tho, those prices arent really out of line in many areas. Antiques have wear and imports are well.....imports. Auctions pose challenges for many folks bc they require both cash and the ability to move iron that day, often with only whatever assistance and tools they brought along.

and here that would be $1800 or more .....

Dont let the greedy fool you into believing youre not in one of the tool richest/lowest priced parts of the country. I grew up an hour from Scranton off I-84 and my father did a good side business buying/selling/trading machinery and tools.
 

RAYJAY

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Always helps to be on time. :p Seriously tho, those prices arent really out of line in many areas. Antiques have wear and imports are well.....imports. Auctions pose challenges for many folks bc they require both cash and the ability to move iron that day, often with only whatever assistance and tools they brought along.



Dont let the greedy fool you into believing youre not in one of the tool richest/lowest priced parts of the country. I grew up an hour from Scranton off I-84 and my father did a good side business buying/selling/trading machinery and tools.

greedy fool..... my ***.... not my ad first off and can't find anything on the cheap side here.
was saying he is getting a great deal and wish we could get the same prices here they want your first born and gold for a piece of rusted junk
 

ritzblitz

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It does not spin in the taper. If you look at the picture above you can see where the brass jaws are round on the inside. You do not clamp tight to the armature but just bring them down to a slip fit. Think of it as a steady rest in the tailstock. There are also chucks that have a bearing between the taper adapter and the chuck allowing the chuck to spin freely.

lg
no neat sig line

Great information thanks! I am a very narrow area machinist and still have so much to learn :)
 
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